Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

Looking to the forum for insight, as I respect ya'lls opinions and experience.

Getting some manure on my property/garden this late summer and wanting to plow it under for spring. I will also need to plow to help with the compaction from the construction this year. Will likely use it annually for the large garden as well. Looking around at prices and availability - I found an old Dearborn 2 bottom plow for a good price with coulters intact. Looks to be in pretty good shape. While I can find a ton of information on these plows, nothing really combined with the 4044M. The bit of information I have found seems to indicate I should have no issues. With that being said, any tips or information I should know before going to get it? I am certainly not an expert in plows. My uncle says parts will be hard to find, my grandpa says parts will be easy to find :unknown:. The same contrast appears online, so we'll see I guess. For the price, I will use it, and if I can't find parts, I guess I will scrap/sell/keep it.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,841 Posts
I have the Dearborn 2 bottom plow for my 4066R. As I understand it, there are 2 models of this plow. The newer model has replaceable plow shares along the bottom whereas the older model does not. I have the newer model. You definitely want coulters to keep a clean furrow. Also if the plows are rusted real bad, it will not scour very well, at least until it has been used extensively. You need to keep grease spread on the plows to keep them from rusting. You will need to take off your drawbar as the plow is very close to the tractor, at least on the model I have. You want to set the 3pt arms so that the right tire is in the furrow and the front plow is cutting fully into the area just to the left of the right tire. It will take some time to get the adjustment right.

Newer model
new dearborn plow.jpg

Older model
older deraborn plow.jpg

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
Dave nailed it!

As far as replacement parts, the only 2 things you may(??) have to replace are the plow shares and the coulter wheels. Normal maintenance (greasing, keeping clean, preserving when not in use) and they'll last your life time! Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,370 Posts
Dave nailed it!

As far as replacement parts, the only 2 things you may(??) have to replace are the plow shares and the coulter wheels. Normal maintenance (greasing, keeping clean, preserving when not in use) and they'll last your life time! Bob
..plus shins and landsides, and eventually moldboards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
935 Posts
Your tractor has the horsepower to pull it. You may need to add some wheel weights for traction. If you have the power reverser transmission you will not have any problems. If you have the hydro you may run into power issues. One thing I have noticed about plowing with a hydro is that the fluid will really heat up on you. I plowed 3/4 acre with my 2038r and the hydro fluid was so hot that touching my hydraulic top link caused immediate skin burns.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
Thanks DR! I learned something...maybe(??). I was familiar with all the terms you mentioned except shin. I now believe this is a replaceable leading edge on the moldboard? Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,586 Posts
Thanks DR! I learned something...maybe(??). I was familiar with all the terms you mentioned except shin. I now believe this is a replaceable leading edge on the moldboard? Bob
Here is a video showing a Deere 3320 with a 2-12 ferguson plow (same as dearborn). You should have a bit more weight and hp than this 3320, so you should get along even better.


As for shins, check out this episode. I replace the 'shins' on an old Oliver plow:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the information so far!

Taking off the drawbar would be annoying.

The plow I am looking at is the older version of the Dearborn referenced from the image that ddinham provided. So instead of replacing the plow share, I would have to replace the whole moldboard, which would likely be more expensive if I could even find parts, right?

I have the hydro trans. I will have to pay attention to any overheating issues.

Sounds like I should perhaps be second guessing this purchase in favor a different plow. I am open for feedback.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,841 Posts
Thanks for the information so far!

Taking off the drawbar would be annoying.

The plow I am looking at is the older version of the Dearborn referenced from the image that ddinham provided. So instead of replacing the plow share, I would have to replace the whole moldboard, which would likely be more expensive if I could even find parts, right?

I have the hydro trans. I will have to pay attention to any overheating issues.

Sounds like I should perhaps be second guessing this purchase in favor a different plow. I am open for feedback.
Let's face it. With a compact tractor, we are not usually going to plowing all day, so we are not likely going to be wearing out a plow. Check the edges of the plow shares and if they are OK now, I would not worry about it. You are right that you would have to replace the entire moldboard, but probably will never need to. I have had mine for three years and have yet to use it, beyond getting it set up to use. These plows are not easy to find, especially at a reasonable price. You might have to go a long time to find another one. You have not stated the condition of the mouldboards. If they are real rusty, you may want to look for another one.

If you try to plow in B range, you would be much more likely to have the hydro fluid heat up. Be sure to plow in A range. I am not sure my 4066R could pull it in B range anyway. With R4 tires, traction also becomes an issue. Remember also that plowing sod is much more demanding than plowing a field that has been plowed previously.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
935 Posts
Thanks for the information so far!

Taking off the drawbar would be annoying.

The plow I am looking at is the older version of the Dearborn referenced from the image that ddinham provided. So instead of replacing the plow share, I would have to replace the whole moldboard, which would likely be more expensive if I could even find parts, right?

I have the hydro trans. I will have to pay attention to any overheating issues.

Sounds like I should perhaps be second guessing this purchase in favor a different plow. I am open for feedback.
You can probably just slide the drawbar forward. I can on my 2038, of course yours could be different.

If the plow is cheap and in good condition then go ahead and get it. I’m not sure how much plowing you’re gonna do but you may never need to replace anything. I recall seeing somewhere that each wear part was good for 100 acres. So your plow is good for 200.

That plow will pull easier than the new plows if today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,841 Posts
Thanks for the information so far!

Taking off the drawbar would be annoying.

The plow I am looking at is the older version of the Dearborn referenced from the image that ddinham provided. So instead of replacing the plow share, I would have to replace the whole moldboard, which would likely be more expensive if I could even find parts, right?

I have the hydro trans. I will have to pay attention to any overheating issues.

Sounds like I should perhaps be second guessing this purchase in favor a different plow. I am open for feedback.

What kind of pricing are you looking at. I paid $275 for mine and had been looking for quite a while before finding one I considered worth the price.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,586 Posts
Thanks for the information so far!

Taking off the drawbar would be annoying.

The plow I am looking at is the older version of the Dearborn referenced from the image that ddinham provided. So instead of replacing the plow share, I would have to replace the whole moldboard, which would likely be more expensive if I could even find parts, right?

I have the hydro trans. I will have to pay attention to any overheating issues.

Sounds like I should perhaps be second guessing this purchase in favor a different plow. I am open for feedback.
No, the older dearborn has replaceable share (you can see in the photo).

The replaceable 'shin' is what was added in the newer one.

I can't imagine you will plow enough to need to replace the moldboard.
Even If you do, just buy another old plow. There are thousands of these 2 bottom ferguson / dearborn plows out there.

Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
302 Posts
T

..plus shins and landsides, and eventually moldboards.
Had one of those old Dearborn plows for the last 50 years ... the moldboards should last a lifetime, or two or three.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,370 Posts
Thanks DR! I learned something...maybe(??). I was familiar with all the terms you mentioned except shin. I now believe this is a replaceable leading edge on the moldboard? Bob
Correct. And the part that the shin, moldboard, and landside bolt to is called the frog.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Wow, I have learned a lot in two pages of posts. Thank you everyone for the feedback.

I am not going to be using this a ton so I can probably won't wear out the parts. If I do, I can repair it, or look for alternative options when the time comes. Seems like it will be years.

In summary, I just need to make sure the thing is in good condition and there are no serious worn parts and rust is in check. Here are photos of it. The guy wants $275 and has a forklift to put it in the back of the truck.

Overall, I have heard a lot a of good things about the Ferguson/Ford/Dearborn plows for small tractors!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
302 Posts
Wow, I have learned a lot in two pages of posts. Thank you everyone for the feedback.

I am not going to be using this a ton so I can probably won't wear out the parts. If I do, I can repair it, or look for alternative options when the time comes. Seems like it will be years.

In summtary, I just need to make sure the thing is in good condition and there are no serious worn parts and rust is in check. Here are photos of it. The guy wants $275 and has a forklift to put it in the back of the truck.

Overall, I have heard a lot a of good things about the Ferguson/Ford/Dearborn plows for small tractors!
Say ... that looks just like mine ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Decided to act on this little old plow. It was local, cheaper than others I saw, and seemingly in good shape. I will clean and grease it up and provide more photos.

I will have to decide on how to hook this up with the quickhitch. This week I will test fit it up to the tractor, and see what I need.

Here is a photo of putting it on the pallet, once I got it off the truck.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,841 Posts
Decided to act on this little old plow. It was local, cheaper than others I saw, and seemingly in good shape. I will clean and grease it up and provide more photos.

I will have to decide on how to hook this up with the quickhitch. This week I will test fit it up to the tractor, and see what I need.

Here is a photo of putting it on the pallet, once I got it off the truck.

When I bought the newer version, I did not see any way to use the iMatch without completely modifying it. What I did find out was that it hooked up so close to the tractor, that it would hit the drawbar when raising it, hence the need for removing the drawbar. I never did check to see if I could just pull the pin and slide it forward a little bit to keep from having to remove it. You definitely don't want to have it hit the drawbar when raising it. Something will break!!!! You will need to decide just how to set it up to have the right tractor wheel in the furrow and the front plow bottom just to the left of the furrow for a full cut.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Update: I coated the mold boards with Fluid Film to prevent any further rusting. I got my 3 pt bushings in, and test fitted them on the plow. As you can see on the photo the pin holes don't line up exactly. Seems to be off about 1/4". I intend on cutting the bushing down to line up with the pin holes. I should have plenty of room on the outer width of the plow with the 3 pt bushings on the quick-hitch, however on the inside of the quick hitch, I have about a 1/8" on each side, so it'll be close. I will post more photos, incl one of the top link later. I would love to get this able to hook up to a quick hitch...and function.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Yesterday, I test fit the plow. As others have indicated in this thread, there are problems with the fit. As it stands with the quick hitch installed, the plow will not even hook up. The forward diagonal strut will collide with the horizontal bar of the quick hitch, with about 3 inches of separation. Furthermore, the front coulter will conflict with drawbar, as also indicated.

To use the plow, my options are

1. to remove the drawbar, and the quick hitch.
2. torch the front strut and weld a piece of steel to allow for the horizontal quick hitch bar (will still have to remove drawbar)
3. torch the front strut and weld a piece of steel to allow for the horizontal quick hitch bar, AND add two steel extensions to extend the plow beyond the drawbar which would allow the plow to be hooked up with the quick hitch with no conflict.
4. Sell this plow and look elsewhere

I am leaning towards a combination of 1. and 4., but my grandpa who has fabricated a lot of equipment wants to get into 3. real bad. We'll see.

The photo attached shows the test fit and some of the problems described.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top