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I have a new MX6 Brush Hog for my 4044R and thought about hooking up with the old-school support chains that run down from the top link attach point. I just put the hydraulic lift lever all the way down and the chains will keep it at the proper height. This is how I ran my older Ford 3000 with a 5ft. My question is, you guys just using the lift arms to hold position just using a set point for the lever, willl the tractor keep it there all day long or without losing height or have the tendency to scalp?
 

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I just depend on lift arms and alternate between scalping and tall grass.


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I find lift arms and rear wheel adjustment critical for good cutting with no scalping.
 

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JD 455, 4610, 4052R, and 6120E
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I have a new MX6 Brush Hog for my 4044R and thought about hooking up with the old-school support chains that run down from the top link attach point. I just put the hydraulic lift lever all the way down and the chains will keep it at the proper height. This is how I ran my older Ford 3000 with a 5ft. My question is, you guys just using the lift arms to hold position just using a set point for the lever, willl the tractor keep it there all day long or without losing height or have the tendency to scalp?
You don't need those chains with your 4044R. Just set the rockshaft depth stop to the desired height, and it will hold it there all day.

If it scalps, it is not because the lift arms did not maintain the selected height.
 

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You want to be sure tail support is able to slide freely allowing the cutter to rock forward and backward as rear wheel follows ground contour. Top link adjustment to get it in the middle of float range one level ground with rocker shaft stop set at desired height as rated above. The best I’ve been able to do.


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If the ground is uneven I don't even connect the top link except for transport.

Lower lift arms on a 3R hold the position they are set to.
 
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