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Hello,

I would appreciate some help ordering hydraulics for a new cab model 4066r. Even my dealer is confused.

I don't have much prior experience with hydraulics. I have read a lot of posts here about that subject, but I can't seem to find the answers I need. I can't even figure it out with the ordering guide.

I hope I can post my questions correctly.

I am getting older and less able to jump in and out of a cab, so I'm hoping to order the best most versatile hydraulic setup in the beginning to allow me to operate the most implements in the future from inside the cab.

Ideally, I would like to have everything available. But I can't even tell what "everything" is. If you got a 4066r "maxed out" hydraulically what would that look like?

Minimum: I would at least like the 3rd SCV for a grapple, and 4th, 5th, (6th and 7th) in the back, in order to operate a hydraulic rear blade and whatever implements I am able to acquire over time. However, this sounds impossible.

There seem to be trade offs. Like you can't have "Top and Tilt" AND "Downforce". You can't have more than 2 rear hydraulic SCV's in the back (the 4th and 5th) unless you make some kind of trade off with your front 3rd SCV that will divert it temporarily to the rear. And that still leaves me needing one more. Would "power beyond" help at all?

So, for the four hydraulic functions available on a rear blade. How best could I do that? I thought maybe top n tilt would take care of two of them but how to set up the tractor hydraulics best - for the other two (offset and the blade rotation)?

Thanks for any help.
 

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I have a 4066R with 1st and 2nd SCV's (loader) and 4th and 5th SCV's in the rear. Were I ordering it today (bought mine the way it is), I would order what I have already, plus 3rd SCV with lines to the loader front and lines to the rear. As I understand it, that would give you 3 pairs of outlets in the rear with one being controlled by the 3rd SCV. I am not real familiar with power beyond, but I don't think that will help you unless maybe you go to a separate set of hyd levers.

I do have the hyd top link but have no use for the hyd tilt, so that frees up one of my outlets to use for my hyd angle 8ft rear blade. I never change the side to side tilt of the 3pt, so a hyd tilt would have been of no use to me. I do use the hyd top link pretty much every time I use the tractor. For a rear blade, if you have 2 sets of outlets to control angle and tilt, that should be pretty much all you need. Some of the bigger rear blades also have hyd lateral movement, but I have not seen any on an 8ft blade which is the biggest you should consider on a 4 series. Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics (vendor on GTT) can fix you up for a hyd top link only for less $ than the JD version which I believes only comes in top and tilt.

Dave
 

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I just went through the same as you, I got 1&2 for the loader, 3rd service hard plumbed for the rear, I am using 3rd for my hydraulic top link. The 3rd can be hard plumbed to the front for a grapple, it’s your choice at time of ordering. I have also heard you can put a “T” fitting in the third line? and this way it can be hard plumbed to the front and rear. (Both will work at the same time though). I also got 4&5 for the rear, 4&5 are really nice because they have their own levers and have a great feel. I did not get 6&7, they run with an electric diverter off 1&2, not only does it get confusing, if you don’t divert often, they stick (rust inside the valve) and it is a pain in the neck getting them freed to work. I had the electric diverter in my 3 series and I’m glad the diverter is gone. I have hydraulic down pressure and power beyond. I chose down pressure over top and tilt (one or the other). I did purchase a hydraulic top link from Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics, order the top link when you order your tractor, it’s a 20 week wait.

Good Luck and you are getting a great tractor!

Kevin


John Deere 4066R
 

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Hello,

I would appreciate some help ordering hydraulics for a new cab model 4066r. Even my dealer is confused.

I don't have much prior experience with hydraulics. I have read a lot of posts here about that subject, but I can't seem to find the answers I need. I can't even figure it out with the ordering guide.

I hope I can post my questions correctly.

I am getting older and less able to jump in and out of a cab, so I'm hoping to order the best most versatile hydraulic setup in the beginning to allow me to operate the most implements in the future from inside the cab.

Ideally, I would like to have everything available. But I can't even tell what "everything" is. If you got a 4066r "maxed out" hydraulically what would that look like?

Minimum: I would at least like the 3rd SCV for a grapple, and 4th, 5th, (6th and 7th) in the back, in order to operate a hydraulic rear blade and whatever implements I am able to acquire over time. However, this sounds impossible.

There seem to be trade offs. Like you can't have "Top and Tilt" AND "Downforce". You can't have more than 2 rear hydraulic SCV's in the back (the 4th and 5th) unless you make some kind of trade off with your front 3rd SCV that will divert it temporarily to the rear. And that still leaves me needing one more. Would "power beyond" help at all?

So, for the four hydraulic functions available on a rear blade. How best could I do that? I thought maybe top n tilt would take care of two of them but how to set up the tractor hydraulics best - for the other two (offset and the blade rotation)?

Thanks for any help.
Get the 3rd, 4th & 5th SCVs. If there is a 6th and 7th available, you still might end up short. I'm still not sure that the 6th & 7th SCVs are even available if you get the 4th & 5th.

Several things to consider.

I believe that the down force kit uses one of the SCVs?? :unknown:

When you push down and exert the 500lbs of down pressure that the system exerts, you have now taken away that much rear traction. Some of that is transferred to the front axle though.

It sounds like you plan on getting heavy duty implements which is what you really need in my opinion if you plan on doing a fair amount of grading. With 1000lb implements (plus or minus), you won't need the additional down pressure.

Get a top & tilt set, (not the JD set, it's engineered wrong IMO) this allows you to tilt all implements, not just a rear blade with full hydraulics. The T&T set pictured is what you would get if purchased from me.

Get an RBT3596 or even an RBT4096 with hydraulic offset and angle from Land Pride. Oh and don't forget to get skid shoes for any rear blade that you may get.

One of the reasons for recommending the LP blades besides they are among the best blades available, is because they provide the most offset capability in the industry. (30" for these series of blades) If you plan on getting the gauge wheels, then the 40 series is out. As much as the gauge wheels cost, I would try using the blade without them to start will. Depending on how good of an operator you are will determine if you actually need them or not.


If extreme tilt is needed, manually set it and fine tune with the 3pt hitch tilt. In all my years of grading, I have never needed to have my rear blade tilted steeper that what the 3pt hitch tilt provides.

If you need at a minimum of 4 sets of rear SCVs. You can add a set of after market diverters and get that using one of either the 4th or 5th SCV for the controlling valve of the added diverters.

I have a double diverter set on my bigger tractor and a triple diverter set on my smaller tractor. You install a control grip on one of your rear SCV levers and all the additional controls are at your finger tips. :good2:

Hopefully others will give you more facts as to the factory hydraulic ordering options. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks

Thanks Brian, Kevin and Dave for your replies.

I knew when I posted this request for advice... I was asking a lot. Much appreciated!

I am still digesting your posts... I'll be back with more.
 

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i think from the factory i would want all 5 scvs ...with the 3rd as mentioned T'ed and plumbed to both front and rear....5 is all they show as being availible....anything beyond that would have to be added as a diverter etc ...as i understand it...it suprizes me they cant add/offer additional electro/hydralic scvs


on my 5m ....i have 6 total ....1/2 loader...3rd electro/hydro to frount.....then 3 on the back .....so i know you can get more in the 5 series but that is a serious physical size jump
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hello again

Well I just was working on an update and had just about finished when I lost it all. I am too tired to remember it all tonight. I am going to the dealership tomorrow to have a face to face about these hydraulics and will take my notes from your responses with me. Thank you so much for giving me some ideas. The dealer and I are both learning it seems about the 4066r's hydraulic possibilities. I think I'm one of the first to want top and tilt and definitely one of the first to want 4 rear hydraulic options around here. At first they thought that top and tilt were separate from the 4th and 5th, so I would still have the use of the 4th and 5th, but then we learned that was not the case. I wish they could just call the factory and find out. Seems like that would be the simplest answer... but evidently John Deere has a hierarchy that makes that not easy to do.

If you are watching us John Deere, we are the faithful and we need a simpler way to get through this maze. I already have a weird attachment to my 1025r and z950r just seeing the help they have provided, I can't imagine what progress I might be able to achieve with this 4066r.

I just hope I learn something through this struggle that might make it easier on someone else.

P.S. To the moderator. As I'm slowly learning this site. If I post something wrong, or in the wrong place... please feel free to move it or whatever you deem necessary for the greater good. Thanks.
 

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Have you tried the "build your own" on the JD website?

Dave

Sent from my Samsung Note using Tapatalk
 
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Have you tried the "build your own" on the JD website?

Dave

Sent from my Samsung Note using Tapatalk
Thanks Dave,
Yes, I have. It didn't help, but "I" might be the problem. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have you and your dealer viewed the document in this thread?

4R Hydraulic Options Ordering Guides
Yes Kenny, I have. Thanks.

My problem is "my lack of a frame of reference". If it is not spelled out so a kindergartner can understand it...then I have trouble figuring it out.

I would think there is a way to use more than two hydraulics (4th and 5th) on the back of a 4066r cab, since it seems to have space for more levers in the cab, and I've read that some rear blades have "4" different functions, and also some rear snow equipment evidently has some extra functions that could benefit from that.

I'm from the south, so no need for snow equipment... but I could use that rear blade on this rolling land to help stop erosion once I hopefully get the woods cleaned out and then set up some type of garden planting area on a slope with swales and terraces, if I can ever figure out how to do those two things. :)

I'm taking the computer with me, so hopefully your link will at least help in our discussion today.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
i think from the factory i would want all 5 scvs ...with the 3rd as mentioned T'ed and plumbed to both front and rear....5 is all they show as being availible....anything beyond that would have to be added as a diverter etc ...as i understand it...it suprizes me they cant add/offer additional electro/hydralic scvs


on my 5m ....i have 6 total ....1/2 loader...3rd electro/hydro to frount.....then 3 on the back .....so i know you can get more in the 5 series but that is a serious physical size jump
Thanks "ttazzman"

Yes, I agree with you that the 5 series is a much larger frame than the 4's. This probably wouldn't be an issue if I had that size tractor.

But since I live on overgrown wooded rolling land full of undergrowth... there wasn't room for that size beast. But the 4066r has pretty good mobility and can fit in between some of the trees so I can try to clean it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Dealer concerns

Brian,

Your post with all those pictures was VERY helpful.

I think the Dealer's concerns are:

1) They have never seen it done.

2) They are concerned that adding too many hoses full of hydro oil might weaken the system. The pump couldn't handle it all.

3) They think that the John Deere rear blades with full hydraulic function might be too big for the 4066r. That is why I am taking your suggestion of Land Pride blades info with me today.

4) They don't seem to like the idea of diverting the 3rd hydraulics away from the loader (grapple) in order to adjust the rear blade temporarily with the joystick. I don't know why... but in my limited mind...I would rather divert the rear 3pt hydro "top" with the cab lever - than the front 3rd grapple hydro I think. But I have never used a blade yet. I'm not sure what function the hydro "top" would provide while using a rear blade. I can understand how the hydro "tilt" could be helpful. I can definitely use the hydro "top" I think for my bush hog etc to get it adjusted more easily.

<<<<You install a control grip on one of your rear SCV levers and all the additional controls are at your finger tips. >>>>

If you have the time... would you mind posting a photo of the diverter control valve on your 4th or 5th levers so I could see what that looks like?

Your setup looks amazing and I'm just plain jealous of your knowledge. They had already ordered the top and tilt, but if I had known earlier about yours and knew ANYBODY here with the knowledge to install this stuff I would have done it. If this extra rear SCV's doesn't work out with the dealer, and if I can find anyone good with hydraulics here. I might come back to you if you don't mind --- to see if you can sell any of this diverter stuff you are talking about to me.

Thanks much.
 

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I'm sorry, but I have no pictures of a 4000 series JD with a control grip.

First picture is in a JD 3000 series cab model, only a single manual rear remote was available. Control grip with button switch as pictured.

Second picture is of a 2 switch control grip, 1 button, 1 trigger switch. This is the control grip that I typically recommend for a double diverter setup. A 2 button control grip is also available.

3rd & 4th pictures are of my 32hp open station tractor. Again only a single rear remote was-is available, this control grip has 2 button switches and a single trigger switch. I have a triple diverter set getting me a total of 4 sets of rear remotes.

If I understand you correctly and you do not understand what purpose the top link has with a rear blade, it adjusts the camber of the cutting edge which controls how aggressive the blade cuts. I personally try to grade with the boom parallel to the ground. That way when I adjust the blade angle to left-right the blade cutting edge remains constant as long as I have the blade level left-right sides.

Of course this does not work if you are ditching or just cutting the edge of a road to increase the crown in the road.

Again, if you have a top & tilt set, IMO there is no good reason to have a rear blade with hydraulic tilt. And again, depending on how good of an operator you are can determine if you actually need gauge wheels for the blade. No gauge wheels, you only need 4 rear SCVs.

Unless you are absolutely tied into getting the factory T&T set, I would really consider not getting the JD set. You only get tilt to one side with no slot & guide float feature and the top link provides a poor working range for the tractor.

The problem you are having with getting all the SCVs that you want-need, applies to the 5000 series tractors also. I believe that you need to get into the 6000 series and larger to get into the 7th & 8th SCV available options.


If the tractor was big enough, you could have 100 SCVs and the hydraulic system would support each and everyone of those SCVs individually just fine. You can never have to many SCVs. Get the 5 that you can get for that tractor and any additional sets required can be added at a later date.

I've probably left something out, but hope that some of this helps you in making the decisions and getting what you want-need. :thumbup1gif:
 

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I'm sorry, but I have no pictures of a 4000 series JD with a control grip.

First picture is in a JD 3000 series cab model, only a single manual rear remote was available. Control grip with button switch as pictured.

Second picture is of a 2 switch control grip, 1 button, 1 trigger switch. This is the control grip that I typically recommend for a double diverter setup. A 2 button control grip is also available.

3rd & 4th pictures are of my 32hp open station tractor. Again only a single rear remote was-is available, this control grip has 2 button switches and a single trigger switch. I have a triple diverter set getting me a total of 4 sets of rear remotes.

If I understand you correctly and you do not understand what purpose the top link has with a rear blade, it adjusts the camber of the cutting edge which controls how aggressive the blade cuts. I personally try to grade with the boom parallel to the ground. That way when I adjust the blade angle to left-right the blade cutting edge remains constant as long as I have the blade level left-right sides.

Of course this does not work if you are ditching or just cutting the edge of a road to increase the crown in the road.

Again, if you have a top & tilt set, IMO there is no good reason to have a rear blade with hydraulic tilt. And again, depending on how good of an operator you are can determine if you actually need gauge wheels for the blade. No gauge wheels, you only need 4 rear SCVs.

Unless you are absolutely tied into getting the factory T&T set, I would really consider not getting the JD set. You only get tilt to one side with no slot & guide float feature and the top link provides a poor working range for the tractor.

The problem you are having with getting all the SCVs that you want-need, applies to the 5000 series tractors also. I believe that you need to get into the 6000 series and larger to get into the 7th & 8th SCV available options.


If the tractor was big enough, you could have 100 SCVs and the hydraulic system would support each and everyone of those SCVs individually just fine. You can never have to many SCVs. Get the 5 that you can get for that tractor and any additional sets required can be added at a later date.

I've probably left something out, but hope that some of this helps you in making the decisions and getting what you want-need. :thumbup1gif:

Brian, thank you for the photos. I now have a better idea about the controls available. :bigthumb:
 

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The problem you are having with getting all the SCVs that you want-need, applies to the 5000 series tractors also. I believe that you need to get into the 6000 series and larger to get into the 7th & 8th SCV available options.


If the tractor was big enough, you could have 100 SCVs and the hydraulic system would support each and everyone of those SCVs individually just fine. You can never have to many SCVs. Get the 5 that you can get for that tractor and any additional sets required can be added at a later date.

I've probably left something out, but hope that some of this helps you in making the decisions and getting what you want-need. :thumbup1gif:
The 6000 series will accommodate 4 rear SCVs, but only 3 if a mid valve for a loader is desired. The spacer block to attach the hoses for a mid loader valve takes the place of the 4th SCV. Any more than 4 rear SCVs, or3 SCVs and spacer block, will not clear the rockshaft (3PT) lift arms. The mid loader (2 SCVs) valve can have a 3rd function valve added to the stack. It is electrically controlled.
Of course aftermarket diverter valves could be added. :greentractorride:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Another Step

I had a good meeting today.

The salesman brought in the technician that will be doing the build on my tractor, and I had their full attention, which I appreciated. However, I didn’t get the answers I wanted to hear.

Basically they think the large hydraulic blades that have the hydraulic offset and “angle/rotation” functions are too heavy and the blades themselves are too wide for the 4066r. They say I can lift them but pulling them through dirt to make ditches etc will be too much for this size tractor and it will probably overheat. The smaller blades like 6 foot wide ones that are adjusted manually aren’t going to be able to do what I want because they aren’t tough enough. So, if I can’t use the hydraulic rear blades then I don’t need the extra hydraulics on the back.

They still felt like even splitting the 3rd SCV from front to back wasn’t a very good idea. I’m not sure I understood why. But if I’m not getting a blade, then I don’t guess I need to pursue that anymore.

But, my tractor will be able to help me a lot in a lot of other ways and it will have 1st, 2nd, (3rd for the grapple), (4th and 5th for top and tilt). They say they will probably start the build next week, and I’m excited about that.

There is a very old box blade here. I might at least be able to learn something about rear blade use from that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The 6000 series will accommodate 4 rear SCVs, but only 3 if a mid valve for a loader is desired. The spacer block to attach the hoses for a mid loader valve takes the place of the 4th SCV. Any more than 4 rear SCVs, or3 SCVs and spacer block, will not clear the rockshaft (3PT) lift arms. The mid loader (2 SCVs) valve can have a 3rd function valve added to the stack. It is electrically controlled.
Of course aftermarket diverter valves could be added. :greentractorride:
Interesting to hear about a 6000 series Zebrafive. Thanks for the post. Enjoy that beast.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I'm just still a little confused as to why I can't use the Land Pride blade because it fits the horsepower range... and the weight of the blade is much less than my Brown Tree Cutter bush hog, but maybe it is just the bulk size of a 4066r's frame that makes them think it will have a hard time with it. Plus I do have a lot of trees, so there will be lots of roots to deal with too.

I asked them if I tilled the dirt first would that help, and he said probably - but I would still end up with washouts when it rained.

Brian, I appreciate your sharing your knowledge of how you operate your blades. Does your long blade ever almost hit your tires when you rotate it?

<<<Unless you are absolutely tied into getting the factory T&T set, I would really consider not getting the JD set. You only get tilt to one side with no slot & guide float feature and the top link provides a poor working range for the tractor.>>>

Could you please point me to a link that might explain a little better or more about what you said above about the top and tilt you sell. I figure I'm stuck with the ones they have, but I might ask them if I could substitute my own. Please tell me how long it would take to get them too. Because once they get started next week... I'm not sure how long it will take.
 

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Greenhope,
Is there anther dealer close you could go deal with? I believe yours is sadly misinformed as to the capabilities of this machine and you're not getting correct answers from them. Maybe it's just the sales person you're dealing with, but saying the machine will overheat from a hydraulic blade and extra hydraulic circuits is just crazy.
 
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