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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody, I'm a "newbie" and have a few questions regarding a 2008, 4120 utility tractor with hydrostatic transmission, power steering and 4x4. I was mowing with a Bush Hogg and hit something that caused the blades to stop and the drive shaft to literally rip apart (the drive shaft clutch was frozen). The section still attached to the PTO was of course flopping around and at some point got caught in the swing arms or the pull bar and caused the engine to quit. I finally got a replacement drive shaft and very quickly noticed that the universal joint at the PTO was wiggling around a good deal. It was an easy diagnosis, a bent shaft from the previous event. It appears to be bent about 0.110". I did s little mowing, at about 1700 RPM, and everything works OK but I am worried about additional stress on the internal parts of the PTO and the new driveshaft universal joints. Here is a very short video that shows the damage - https://youtu.be/Ethiczo3vyk

So, can I take a pipe and bend it straight again? No, I didn't think so either. I checked around some web pages and found the part number for a new output shaft (LVU803625, about $330) but I don't have a workshop manual and don't know how to get the shaft out. I did find a technical manual listed on the internet (TM2137) and was wondering if anyone has this manual. Will it be a good resource for me to work on my tractor, does it have detailed schematics and good descriptions? I would like to get it as a CD instead of the printed book, that way I can just print out the pages I need for what I'm doing and my book won't get dirty like my JD 1020 manual did...and it's cheaper! Am I missing anything? Thanks for any help you can offer.

Don Loftus
Gainesville, FL
 

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You have a real problem there. If you continue to use it, it will wipe out the bearing. So you really have no choice but to replace it and I don't think it will be cheap. You just learned a real lesson and that is to perform maintenance on slip clutches every year before using the implement. However, very few people do. I kept telling my brother that was his problem when he kept breaking shafts at the yoke on his 7ft cutter, but he would not listen. Fortunately, he did not damage the tractor. I just bought a 10ft Rhino brush hog and there was no way I was going to use that big mower behind my little tractor and tear up the tractor. So I took the slip clutch apart and found the plates to be completely rusted. There was no way it was ever going to perform the way it was supposed to. Since I do not like the old WalterSchied german made slip clutch, I am looking to completely replace it. Way more money than I expected to spend, but I have no choice now.

Dave
 

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Might take some elbow grease, but the rear cover comes off and then you need some snap ring pliers.

John Deere - Parts Catalog

Hopefully this link works.
:thumbup1gif:

Auto part Line art Transmission part Automotive engine part


CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTY SERIAL NO.REMARKS
1CH11554Ball Bearing1
2CH13489Snap Ring1
3LVU801249Gear1
PTO (71R)
4M808402Shaft1
ORDER LVU803625; PTO
LVU803625Shaft1
5JD9344Ball Bearing1
6CH10959Spacer1
SEAL
7CH10921Seal1
8LVA11753Bracket1
PTO SHIELD
919M7783Screw4
M10 X 16
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTY SERIAL NO.REMARKS
1014M7298Flange Nut2
M8
1119M7867Screw2
M8 X 25
12M137828Bumper2
13LVU12736Shield1
14LVU14781Cover1
(MOLDED VINYL)
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have been looking over the tractor serial number stuff and it looks like there was some change in 2009. Mine is suppose to be a 2008 but I can't seem to find a definitive source for PIN lookup. The chart seems to indicate two part numbers but there is a note that also seems to indicate the LVU803625 replaces the other one.

My priority right now is to get the proper workshop/repair manual so I can see what needs to be done to get the shaft out. I'm looking for the CD version because it's cheaper and I can print out only the pages I need for the job I'm doing. I see one on e-bay but I'm wondering if it would be the same price at the local JD dealer. Fortunately the tractor works fine, if I don't need the PTO so I'm not "dead in the water".

Thanks for the input everybody, it is appreciated.

God Bless,
Don Loftus
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I forgot to mention that the CD or printed manual for the 4120 I found on-line is -- TM2137. I'm just wondering if this is a complete "how to" on all aspects of the tractor. Even though I may not try to rebuild the hydrostatic trans, or the turbo charger, or any other major component at least I will understand what the procedure is and will be able to have an intelligent conversation with the mechanic.

I did rebuilt the engine on my 1020 when the seal around the bottom of the cylinder sleeve let go and dumped water into the oil. I caught it in time and was able to fix it myself. About 10 years later it happened while my son was using the tractor but he didn't realize it. I rebuilt it like I did before but it just wasn't working right. Water is a poor lubricant, there was serious damage than the first time. I had a local diesel mechanic fix it because it required more than I wanted to get into. It turns out someone before me put in the wrong sleeve as the design changed sometime during production. In the second event there was enough friction to break through the case hardening on the cam and one or two of the lobes were damaged beyond repair. The mechanic found a few other things I probably would of missed. The tractor still runs but after hurricane Irene last year, I needed a 4x4 tractor and power steering. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

God. Bless,
Don Loftus
 

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I watched the video, it didn't look bent around the seal, but it might be different in person. I would be sick too, but I have seen this before in other tractors, and they had been that way for a long time with no problems.
just saying. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
1010, thanks for your input. Believe me, the first think I thought of was to get a long thick wall pipe and bend the sucker back into alignment, but that would put additional strain on the bearings again and could cause damage.

I have even considered taking the shaft out and heating it up with a oxy/act torch and use heat to help with the bending, but there is always the possibility of internal micro fractures that could cause the part to fail later.

If I'm going to put that much time and effort into a repair, I might as well buy a new part and do it right. I also thought like you, that the bend wasn't THAT bad, but the amount of wiggle at the drive shaft made me reconsider. It was really moving a lot and I'm sure the universal joints would have failed early. That's why I'm asking for feedback about the repair manual, I'm going to fix it right. Once again thanks for your input.

God Bless,
Don Loftus
 

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The tech manual will cover everything about your tractor, so I would definitely pick one up.

As far as the diagrams posted above, I'm not sure its that easy. On my 4510, to get the pto apart, you must split the tractor and gut the tranny. You may be able to remove the rockshaft and get to it that way, but maybe not. Be prepared for the worst- splitting the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
JohnH123, that's why I really need the manual, so I can see the actual procedure for a repair. It varies so much from model to model. I have always tried to get the workshop manual for any vehicle I expect to work on and it has always been very helpful. I would not have been able to rebuild the engine on the JD 1020 without it. I'll double check the serial number problem and then order the CD. Thanks for your input, it's helpful.

God Bless,
Don Loftus
 

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John Deere's price for TM2137CD is $45 if that helps with your eBay comparison.

I would consider removing and straightening the shaft with a press, and no heat. But if inspection shows any stress, discard it.
 

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1010, thanks for your input. Believe me, the first think I thought of was to get a long thick wall pipe and bend the sucker back into alignment, but that would put additional strain on the bearings again and could cause damage.

I have even considered taking the shaft out and heating it up with a oxy/act torch and use heat to help with the bending, but there is always the possibility of internal micro fractures that could cause the part to fail later.
As tempting as it may be, don't.

Parts like that are heat treated. If you apply heat sufficient to be able to work it back straight, you will permanently soften the metal making it easier to bend in the future. If you try to work it cold, you'll either break it off or seriously damage the housing (in addition to screwing up the shaft) or some other component not designed to take that much or kind of stress. One of the purposes of hardening is to remove elasticity, which is what you'll be fighting to straighten it.

Do it right, learn, be proud of your accomplishment, sleep well.

Al
 

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I would consider removing and straightening the shaft with a press, and no heat. But if inspection shows any stress, discard it.
Just my 2 cents here but this seems like a "penny wise pound foolish" repair here. It would suck to go thru all that work, gaskets and seals, only to find out that there is .005 of run out in the shaft. Then you put undue stress on other components (bearings etc) that likely won't fail for some time after the repair.



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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've been gone for a while, working on all sorts of stuff around here. In the mean time I got the CD manual and looked at the section on the PTO shaft. Basically the procedure will be to drain the transmission (so, just what can I do with 10 gallons of used Hydro oil?), remove stuff that's in the way (swing arm and PTO shield) and take off the rear plate of the transmission. The repair will be to use a puller to remove a bearing and then get a "c" clip off to get the PTO shaft out. Install a new one and everything is done in reverse order. I don't need the bush hog for a while and I still have the JD 1020 if I need it, so I"m not in a hurry and I can still use the tractor for other jobs around the farm. My plan is to make room inside the workshop and move it inside (cleaning up the workshop is where the real job is!!). When I do it I'll take some photos or a video and let everyone know where to see them. Thanks for all the input guys, it is appreciated.
 
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