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Discussion Starter #1
I am attempting to get my 4230 pushed/shoved into my work shop. Unfortunately it won't start so I can't steer it. Any good ideas on how I can make it so the front wheels will move freely. It is a front-wheel assist model.
I was thinking of disconnecting the steering hydraulic lines and using a coupler connecting them together so the fluid would flow in a curcuit.
I was also thinking of connecting a pair of hydraulic lines that I would connect to my MF 1135 which I am using as a mule to push teh JD into the workshop via the selective control valves on the MF but I don't want to screw thing us before I get a chance to rebuild the mototr that is so bad it won't start even with ether. No compression and only a smidgen of black smoke when I crank. I have a brand new correctly timed injector pump.
 

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Can you turn the steering a little while you crank the engine? You know, turn it just enough to guide you in.
 

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Depending on how far you need to move the tractor I'll suggest it would behoove you to put trans in ""tow position"" before moving if you haven't already considered doing so. . Several JD trans have required repair when transmissions were not put in tow position before towing tractor. Frt wheels should still be controlled by steering wheel even though engine doesn't run. It just takes more steering wheel revolutions to change tire angles.
 

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Ant current updates on getting the tractor in the shop and if so, how did you do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ant current updates on getting the tractor in the shop and if so, how did you do it?
I have managed to get the front wheels turned a bit but since I can't figure out how to engage the differential lock on my MF1155 I can't get enough oomph to get the 4230 over the snow bank in front of the shop. I hope to get a neighbor to help me with their 4WD

It didn't help much cranking the engine so instead I jacked up the front end and was able to turn the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The end to a crazy tale. The crank motor steering attempt failed completely. wouldn't budge at all. So I used a 10-ton jack to lift the front end and turned the wheels by pushing on them. I had to do this 4 times as I pushed the tractor towards the shop. All in all it was relatively painless. I did have to have a neighbor bring his 4wd tractor in to help push as I found out the hard way the MF didn't think every 1155 model required a differential lock. (I'm confused how farmers didn't bean the maker over that). It is also a bit my fault since I waited until I had to push the tractor over a snow bank to get it into the shop. Most samrt folks would have done it before winter but hey :)

Now all I need is a good set of instructions to follow as I do the in-frame rebuild
 

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FWIW, any vehicle that has a positive caster angle should flat tow and the steering will follow the pulling force. Of course, I have no idea if tractors are designed with any caster at all. They do have camber.

Al
 

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You still have steering brakes on the rear you can use. Even being pulled or pushed the brakes one at a time will steer you. I tore off my power steering hose off in my driveway. Every time you turned the steering wheel fluid would spray out so I could not steer. I needed to get the tractor out of the way and in a better spot. My engine still ran ok long as you do not steer the fluid stayed in the tractor. So I lowered the loader & lifted up the front tires and used one brake at a time to steer it around just locking up one wheel at a time. Even if you can't push the front tires up in the air with a loader you can steer this way if needed.
 
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