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4300 hst fuel shut off UPGRADE?

8686 Views 39 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  DRK
have they come up with a fix for this issue? seems there is a plunger that retracts when you turn the key, to allow fuel flow. on my model tractor a 2000 4300 HST the device allows oil to get behind the plunger and cause a hydraulic BLOCK to the plunger retracting as it should.... sooo I have to remove the device from its very tight location and work the plunger to squeeze out all the oil, and then I reinstall the device... I had to make a custom socket to remove the two 10 mm bolt heads... hopeing some one has an update. On another note.... what is the down side of just removing this device, or cutting off the plunger rod so it cant ever block the fuel? is the fuel going to evaporate or run into the injectors or what???


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thanks.... I was thinking the running system was shut off via the key -ignition system, not fuel delivery system.... it shuts off so fast i wouldnt have thought it was the fuel system!
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soooo no one knows of an improvement for this shut off device? its miserable having to remove it every 5-6 hours of usage!!!!!!!!
thanks for the last 2 replies!! this last few days the shut off goes bad every time i turn the tractor off.... 10 minutes or 2 hours... I had to remove the device, pump it by hand to squeeze the oil out and reinstal and bammm, the tractor starts..... I finally figured i shouldnt turn the tractor off until i was done for the day or I wanted to go through the proceedure again.. I ordered a new part...then i am going to disect the old one.. the one in there now IS A REPLACEMENT from about 3 years ago! I found this problem on youtube. two guys posted videos on what they had to do to over come the issue. thats how i found out what to do.. They had mentioned it was a KNOWN problem and lots of tractors in my range. 4100 4200 4300 440 4500 4600 4700. (for JD Driver): since once i pump the oil out of the unit, and reinstall, the tractor starts every time, I figured its not an electrical issue... Im guessing since you more experienced guys didnt know of this issue there is little chance there is a new solution or an improved part!
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Driver://...i can do that tomorrow...the tractor is in non stating mode........ I have the proceedure to remove and replace down to about 10 minutes.. the secret is a 10mm 1/4" drive deep socket with about .600" of length cut off, the ratchet can rest square to the socket and bolt to remove(just fits).... I take the oil dipstick tube out and it leaves me more room...thanks for the tips and help

Too bad he didn't turn the key to ON while watching the solenoid when he had it removed before doing anything else. I would like to see if the solenoid pulls in or not before he removes the oil.

@dvice - when you are having a starting problem, and turn your key to ON, do you hear the loud clunk indicating that the solenoid is retracting? The next time you have a starting problem, please remove the solenoid and watch it while turning the key to ON to note whether or not the solenoid pin retracts before doing any cleaning. You could even measure the pin retracted length (protruding from the solenoid body) both before and after cleaning to see if that cleaning action actually does anything to make it retract further.

This solenoid lives in an oily environment and even has an o-ring seal to keep the oil in the pump, so it seems odd that this is really the problem.

Again, if the solenoid pull-in coil is not being properly energized by the pull-in circuit with the thermistor, your solenoid will often not have sufficient power to retract and allow the engine to start.

BTW, using a 1/4" drive socket, ratchet, and extension makes it easy to remove this solenoid. The bolt in the back is easy to get to with the proper tools.
JD Driver: took some picture.. tractor would not start!, I pulled the fuel shutoff switch and in the air i turned the key, the plunger tried to move but didnt... it measured .500"... I pumped the plunger by hand to squeeze out the oil, and then i turned the key, it retracted!... the measurement when retracted was, .217". so if the unit doesnt fill with oil it worked... it seems to be totaly NON electrical, and completely a defective plunger......
i am certainly weak in the electrical troubleshooting dept.... I can certainly check the ohms on the removed solenoid... and I have flirted with the idea of replacing the thermistor.... and since I have purchased a new plastic hood and dash and cowl plastic... I may look to solder in a new thermistor.... thanks for the continued advice...
thanks, Im not sure Im up yet for building a test button, but my new solenoid came in...soooo Im thinking to test the ohms on the old one like you suggested before and then test the ohms on the new one..... if they are the same.... then it might not be an electrical issue????????( meaning the old solenoid electrical components are just as good as the new ones?.....but I will see how far i get with opening up the console to see behind the fuse panel....
hello JD Driver... the old solenoid measures 0.6 on A to B. and 11.5 on A to C. on my meter set at 200 ohms. The new Solenoid measures 0.7 on A to B, and measures 31.5 on A to C!!!!! whats that tell me???? i got a chinese solenoid?? when i get a non rainy day Ill start to pull the cowl off and might check the relays and thermistor
JD , ill add , that i plugged the new solenoid in to check its function(outside the fuel pump) and it is much snappier than the nold one... the old one retracts when there is no oil behind it, but it just does that...retracts... the new one SNAPS back
hello JD, Driver, I got the new switch in and started the tractor up...but when i turned the key off, the tractors idle went down, but it didnt shut off. I had to throttle the idle lever to the minimum, to stall the tractor!..I have a video, but its MP4 and apparently thats not allowed here....dont know how to change it...
the solenoid for the fuel shutoff.... not really a switch! the solenoid that Snapped back with authority........i guess i should have measured that it extended .500" when in the off position, before i installed it...
i bought it on ebay from a guy selling a lot of john deere stuff, up in michigan..... it was $36, not $99! though........ the shut off is the extended position, the retract is the run position.... there isnt anything wrong with throttling down is there?.... I wonder now if the seat switch will still shut off the tractor.
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