Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 62 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,

I need some guidance. I need some help. I need some trouble shooting ideas.

My 4310 runs just fine mechanically. I have no issues with it.

Going back a few weeks or so ago, when I was snow blowing, my Curtis Cab roof work lights stopped working, and then a short time later my rear work light, and my roof mounted beacon emergency light also stopped working. I thought it must be a fuse, but changing to a new fuse did not resolve the issue.

Now all of the wires from the above mentioned lights are connected to the Off/ON heater switch that operates my Curtis Cab Heater. Th lights and heater were installed by a John Deere technician. The heater works just fine. BUT NOW, when I toggle the roof work and rear lights, or toggle the beacon light they don't come on. I have a separate toggle switch for the roof & rear light (they come on together), and another toggle switch for the beacon light.

I replaced both toggle switches. I replaced the Curtis Heater switch. I checked and re-crimped all the wire connections. I have power coming from the fuse box to the heater switch . . . the Curtis Heater turns on and off with no issues. The wire connectors from the lights are attached to the prongs on the back of the heater switch, as they were years ago. And the lights always worked just fine when connected in this manner.

I find it hard to believe that my three work lights, and the beacon light just stopped working within just a short time of each other.

Is there a way to test the lights without removing them from the tractor?

Have I overlooked something when trouble shooting my lighting problem?

Any suggestions on what else I can do to fix my lighting problem?

Can you suggest a new set of working lights for my 4310?

Thanks for reading this.

FredSG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
402 Posts
Fred,

Have you tried checking the grounds at these lights? I had replaced the headliner in my Curtis Cab last fall, and replaced the lights. I had a problem with the beacon, and realized that I had a poor ground. Once I figured it out, I was able to put the beacon back into service.

I had installed a new fuse block, and ran dedicated ground wires to each lamp from the block. I have the older syle Curtis Cab, so I can't tell you how your cab is grounded.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi Town Manager,

I checked the ground and they seem OK. I purchased the 4310 and the soft Curtis Cab at the same time back in 2003.

Thanks for the reply,

FredSG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
You can test incandescent bulbs with an ohm meter. Pull the bulb and check for power and ground to it at the socket and test the bulb for continuity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
This is the rear of the Curtis Switch. It works fine Right now, the spliced 18 gauge wire lights are connected to the L prong. Should all the prongs be "hot"? Maybe the spliced light wires should be connected to the B prong . . . just thinking out loud.



FredSG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
634 Posts
Unless I'm reading this all wrong, your "L" prong is just your LOW speed of the switch, and the "H" would be the HIGH speed. As you rotate your switch, you are taking power off the L and moving it to the H. So that alone would tell me your lights should only be working when you have one speed or the other. However, I am making an assuption as to the exact way that switch is working.

As you mentioned your lights are now on separate toggle switches, there is no reason this switch you are showing should even be in the system. However, those other toggle switches do in fact need power so yes, if you were tapping into any of the wires on that switch, it would be off of your 'B' wire.

The wire on 'B" is your power coming from your fuse box / battery and is either key hot, or always hot, depending on how it was wired. Thus, the wire coming to 'B' is where you want one part of it going to your rotary switch, and to each of your toggle switches.

I truly suck at making pictures but I will attempt to make a diagram and post it here as to how I would wire your configuration. Gimme a few minutes and let me get some more coffee. :laugh:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
634 Posts
yA5Hty6.png
Ok, remember, I said my drawing skills are not up to industry standards so please bear with my crude drawing.

At the end of the day, the easiest way to check the wiring is at the back of the switches. A test light should have power on both ends of the toggle switch when you have the switches in the 'ON" position. Naturally they will only have power on one terminal when in the 'OFF' position. So my first plan of attack would be to check there.
There is no reason to have the power for the toggles going through the heater switch, which is why you want to have your splices before they get to the rotary switch.

If you have power coming out of the switches then its in the wiring between the switches to the light, or as already mentioned, your grounds.

Also, before you go nuts, if there is power coming off the switches, then just take one of the work lights out and check to make sure the power is making its way to the actual bulbs. If it is, then the ground is bad.

I hope any of this helps and if theres anything more I can add to this, by all means let me know. :greentractorride:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Toughsox,

Really appreciate your comments and what a "fine" drawing. Went out to the 4310 and tried again to figure it out.

Maybe I've got it figured out . . . there are two red wires coming from the fuse box. One is "hot" the other is ?? dead ??. Using the "hot" wire and re-doing my crimps and connections I am able to get everything to work - the heater, the beacon light and the work lights. I got them to work SEPARATELY when connected to the "hot" wire. Can I hook the beacon and work lights to the "hot" wire going directly to the heater switch tab, letter B as shown on the back of the switch? Would I be over-loading the fuse, 20 amp?

Any idea why the other red wire is "dead" coming from the fuse box? Originally, this "dead" red wire was attached somewhere, but I don't know where. Any thoughts?

Thanks for your help and diagram . . . :bigthumb:

FredSG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
634 Posts
The other red wire may not be battery hot. It may be switch hot, meaning it only comes on if you turn the key on.
As for whether your fuse can handle the load, that would depend on how much the blower, the beacon and the work lights are taking. While I have no doubt the lights would overload the circuit, the blower by itself is usually the heavy hitter when it comes to power. Personally Id have the blower on its own circuit. 20 amps is low for a car/truck but I dont know how small or big the one in your cab is.

But the fact that the entire system was installed by JD (if I read your original post correctly) then I would have to guess that 20 amps would be sufficient.

If I had a doubt that the circuit was overloaded or borderline, I would install inline fuses BEFORE the other inline fuse, something like this.....
and yes, another industry standard drawing. :laugh::laugh::laugh:
WrEN5QR.png

And by all means, please keep us informed how this is going for you. :good2:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
634 Posts
Oh, forgot your other question.....where does the other red wire go? For that, Im sorry but I have no idea. If it is hot when the key comes on, my guess is that it was possibly meant for the lights. You mentioned you redid your connections so Im wondering, did that one wire come off to begin with? If so, then Id only wire the heater to one and the lights to the other, naturally making sure they had inline fuses to protect your tractor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Toughsox,

Thanks again for your posts.

I checked on that other red wire . . . turned on the ignition, but it remains dead. Nothing I connect to it works. That has me stymied. When I connect the wires from the lights, wipers, fan or heater switch to the "live" red wire separately, they all work.

Can you explain what they mean by the C prong on the back of the heater switch where it says "Leave C Open, Not a Ground".

If I'm too much of a bother just tell me so and I'll stop asking you questions.

FredSG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
634 Posts
Oh, dont be silly.....dont ever stop asking questions. Sorry for the late reply but I got called into work....the nerve of them. :laugh::laugh:

As for the C terminal, Id be curious if it went hot when the switch was in any of the positions. Its possible they use that switch for other applications where that C terminal is needed. That would be my best guess. :bigthumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Hi Toughsox,

Thought maybe this would help. I made a diagram of my wiring problem. The rear lite, fan, beacon lite, wiper, cab work lites, and Curtis Heater all worked at one time.



Can you or any one else looking at my diagram add the correct wire connections . . . so I can move on with my life :flag_of_truce:

Thanks,

FredSG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
634 Posts
Do you have any other blown or missing fuses? I ask because that one dead red wire should be hot, either with the key on or all the time if its battery hot.
Also, while you say that all of those other items did work at one time, where exactly were they originally wired to begin with? Was there just one connection that they all attached to?

And FYI....I LOVE that diagram. Its on par with mine. :laugh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I can't recall how they were originally wired and to where . . . I've only checked my 20 amp fuses, and they all work . . . even replaced them just to be sure . . . if I could figure out that "dead" red wire, I'd be able to put it all together. Just seems like too many things on one red "hot" wire . . . can't be right!

So even with my terrific diagram, you can't wire it up for me :unknown: Yet another sleepless night.

FredSG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
634 Posts
Oh, I can definitely wire it up for you. But first, do you have the rest of the cab wiring? Id much rather use what they intended before I start making recommendations blindly. Also, do you have access to the tractors wiring diagram?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I don't have any more of the cab wiring . . . it was done by the JD technician where I purchased the 4310 and Curtis Cab. That dealership has since closed about 5 years ago. My wiring diagram shows pretty much all the wiring in the cab . . .

I have the 4310 Technical Manual and will look up the wiring diagram if it's there that you need . . . but, please give it a try. It couldn't make my situation any worse than it is.

FredSG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
634 Posts
Well, without a diagram, the items you have are simple automotive accessories. If it were mine and I was going to wire it from scratch, I would attempt to utilize the tractors fuse box. If that wasnt feasible (because there were no open slots) then I would come of directly from the battery.
Give me a few minutes so I can print out your diagram as i add to it. We dont want you losing any sleep tonight. :thumbup1gif:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
634 Posts
Oh, one more thing I need to ask. You have 5 items you need to run, yet you only have 2 toggle switches.
So my questions are, when did the fan come on?
Which lights came on at the same time?
Are the cab work lights for inside the cab?
I assume you had the beacon and the rear work light come on at the same time.

Do you have room to add a 3rd and/or 4th toggle switch? I ask this because I have to assume that the wiper motor has to be one of the toggle switches and nothing else would come on when you had the wiper on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
402 Posts
Fred and Toughsox,

In the Cozy Cab on the 420, I have the factory Cozy Cab fusebox with an integral switch panel. Each of the devices shown are wired from the fusebox. Each circuit has a short power lead from the individual fuses to a switch, and then to the device.

I ran one 12 gauge lead from the battery to the fuse box with a 20 Amp inline fuse to power the fusebox.

Dave
 
  • Like
Reactions: Toughsox
1 - 20 of 62 Posts
Top