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Hello all. Has anyone tried to relocate the breather tube from the air cleaner housing to a remote location with a small filter on the end?
My air filter is always oily and wet and even my left cylinder spark plug is always black looking. The breather tube has a 90 degree rubber fitting on it inside the air filter housing that directs the oil mist in the cylinder. The tractor runs fine, uses no oil, no smoke, but a mechanic friend suggested that by moving the breather the tractor might run even better. I would have to plug the hole on the underside of the filter housing so as not to suck dirt, but was wondering if anybody has expierienced this. Machine has approx. 1350hrs on it.
Thanks for your time. G
 

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Hello all. Has anyone tried to relocate the breather tube from the air cleaner housing to a remote location with a small filter on the end?
My air filter is always oily and wet and even my left cylinder spark plug is always black looking. The breather tube has a 90 degree rubber fitting on it inside the air filter housing that directs the oil mist in the cylinder. The tractor runs fine, uses no oil, no smoke, but a mechanic friend suggested that by moving the breather the tractor might run even better. I would have to plug the hole on the underside of the filter housing so as not to suck dirt, but was wondering if anybody has expierienced this. Machine has approx. 1350hrs on it.
Thanks for your time. G
Usually the breather hose is chugging oil because of an internal engine problem. Like compression bypassing the piston rings or a bad head gasket. My old L108 had a gasket problem. Once I replaced it I was good to go.

To answer your question. I had something similar on my SRT10 truck. It had a fair amount of blow by. Having a performance engine inhaling that oil can cause other problems. After I rebuilt the engine I wasn't taking any chances. I put this breather & high flow air intake from JMB Performance. It's a little catch can with a filter on top. It had a sight tube on the side to tell how full it is. Also a drain valve on the bottom to empty it. After the rebuilding that can never had even a teaspoon of oil in it. You could see condensation coming out of the filter at idle so it was definitely working.

These are the best 2 pictures of it that I have. If you go to the JMB website they will have close up pictures. They will even powder coat it the color of your choice. Like green or yellow. lol
The can is red with a chrome lid that sits just behind the air filter element.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice looking engine.

I agree blowby usually portends bigger problems but I had the head gaskets done about 100 hrs ago. The dealership claims to have checked compression and valves. So I may try it and see. Thanks
 

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Nice looking engine.

I agree blowby usually portends bigger problems but I had the head gaskets done about 100 hrs ago. The dealership claims to have checked compression and valves. So I may try it and see. Thanks

The nice thing about the JMB setup is the catch can. When I got the truck it already had a K&N high flow intake system on it. The breather tube went into the back side of the washable air filter element. It had a smaller hole for the breather tube in the back black rubber end. Right over the top of the big intake tube. So any dripping oil should have gotten sucked into the engine. However the bottom of the filter element would eventually get saturated with oil. Eventually dripping down the inner fender liner. So if you just put a small K&N style filter into the end of your breather hose. The same kind of thing will happen. You will just be moving the oil leak to a different part of your tractor.

Your cylinder that always has a black spark plug should be the culprit. One of 2 things could be happening.
That cylinder could be showing the start of a ring problem or it is burning up the blow by oil being sucked through the air filter. The most common problem is vertical scratching of the cylinder. Sometimes they are so fine it's hard to see with the naked eye or feel with a finger nail. I'd recommend doing a leak down test to your engine. If it wasn't done already. This is the only way to know for sure without opening the engine. (Again)
 
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