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Discussion Starter #1
First let me say that I'm new to the forum. I've read where the solenoid valves can get stuck on these tractors from time to time. Anyone with any ideas on what I need to check and where the valve body is located? I've checked the pull knob switch in that when I pull the switch up to activate the PTO, the light turns on the dash comes on and if I rise up out of the seat, the safety switch kills the tractor.

Any one with pictures or diagrams that could help me? I appreciate any and all help.
 

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Had basically the same issue with my PTO, the dealer found the valve clogged up with Teflon tape, water and a little rust, apparently from a botched previous repair (before I bought the 4720.) There's a way to check pressure but I have no idea how. They had to remove the right rear tire to access the applicable parts.
 
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That is the correct parts diagram. I got the end cap off and the eltromagnet as well. The magnet will hold a screwdriver when the PTO switch is pulled on. I cannot figure out how to remove the valve. There does not appear to be a hex head or anything to slip a wrench on to remove the valve.

I did not have to remove a rear tire to get to the PTO valve. It is right behind and above the hydraulic filter. Anyone go a copy of the tech manual which shows how to get the solenoid valve out?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
4520 Compact PTO Solenoid Valve Wrench

Does anyone know what size wrench, socket or if a special tool is needed to remove the PTO solenoid valve for a 4520 Compact. I do not have a technical service manual yet and PTO will not engage. The solenoid magnet is getting power but I’m assuming the valve is stuck and I need to remove it and clean it.

Help
 

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That is the correct parts diagram. I got the end cap off and the eltromagnet as well. The magnet will hold a screwdriver when the PTO switch is pulled on. I cannot figure out how to remove the valve. There does not appear to be a hex head or anything to slip a wrench on to remove the valve.

I did not have to remove a rear tire to get to the PTO valve. It is right behind and above the hydraulic filter. Anyone go a copy of the tech manual which shows how to get the solenoid valve out?
Ah-ha! The dealer mentioned the previous repair job on my PTO included a boogered up 'thingy' - apparently the previous tech tried to remove that thingy to access the valve.
 

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Had basically the same issue with my PTO, the dealer found the valve clogged up with Teflon tape, water and a little rust, apparently from a botched previous repair (before I bought the 4720.) There's a way to check pressure but I have no idea how. They had to remove the right rear tire to access the applicable parts.
And yet many will argue it's OK to use that in hydraulic systems...:dunno:
 

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That is the correct parts diagram. I got the end cap off and the eltromagnet as well. The magnet will hold a screwdriver when the PTO switch is pulled on. I cannot figure out how to remove the valve. There does not appear to be a hex head or anything to slip a wrench on to remove the valve.

I did not have to remove a rear tire to get to the PTO valve. It is right behind and above the hydraulic filter. Anyone go a copy of the tech manual which shows how to get the solenoid valve out?
The spool is probably stuck in the bore from corrosion, since its spring loaded, you can try tapping lightly with a rubber mallet to try to free it.
 

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Does anyone know what size wrench, socket or if a special tool is needed to remove the PTO solenoid valve for a 4520 Compact. I do not have a technical service manual yet and PTO will not engage. The solenoid magnet is getting power but I’m assuming the valve is stuck and I need to remove it and clean it.

Help

I merged your thread with this original one...we can all help better if you keep questions together in one thread rather than starting new ones.
 

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A little birdy dropped this in my lap :hide:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks. That's what I was looking for. It still doesn't tell everything but shows more detail than what I presently have. Most folks that say anything about doing this work themselves say that removing the tire is the best way to access the valve assembly block. I can reach all of it without removing the tire but if the tire were out of the way it would make life simpler. The huge hydraulic filter could be removed as well and that would help.

I would love to do this work myself but shop door isn't tall enough so it outside in the sun to work on it. I thought i was going to be able to do the work today and just couldn't get it done.I no longer have a mobile mechanic to come around and help work on my tractors. He passed away a couple of years ago on a tractor rollover on his farm. he could fix anything on a tractor.

I think I'll call one of the three JD dealers near me and see if I can get the work scheduled in their shop. :gizmo: I need the tractor working as its too hot to ride one of the open operator station tractors.

I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I went by the dealer today to check as to whether they had a chance to look at my PTO problem. He said they did look at it and ordered a Solenoid to try on the valve to see if that would make it work. He also said what seemed to be a problem was that you could not turn the PTO clockwise by hand but you could turn it counterclockwise and heat a click as it was turned.

He said that may be an internal problem that would require going into the tractor to fix it.

Anyone with knowledge on the turning by hand and the clicking sound?
 
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Discussion Starter #13
You can HEAR a clicking sound not heat a clicking sound.
 

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I went by the dealer today to check as to whether they had a chance to look at my PTO problem. He said they did look at it and ordered a Solenoid to try on the valve to see if that would make it work. He also said what seemed to be a problem was that you could not turn the PTO clockwise by hand but you could turn it counterclockwise and heat a click as it was turned.

He said that may be an internal problem that would require going into the tractor to fix it.

Anyone with knowledge on the turning by hand and the clicking sound?
That is completely normal. The brake prevents the pto from rotating forward, but there is a one way clutch that allows it to turn backward for easier hook up to implements.
It explains it in the repair manual
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I went back by the JD Dealer shop this morning and carried sheet 699 of the Technical manual. This show that the PTO shaft should click CCW and not turn CW. The advisor said that they had contacted JD and that JD said it was not suppose to that as none of their tractors do that now. I highlighted the portion on page 699 that says it should and told the shop advisor that this was straight out of the JD 4520 technical service manual. He asked me to leave it with him and said they still think they need to break the tractor open to find out what is wrong and will work me up a quote next week.

They ordered a Solenoid and put it on and it didn’t do anything differently. My recommendation was that the PTO Valve body needed to be taken apart, cleaned, o-rings replaced and put back together. He said the clicking indicated something might be broken internally.

Anyone got any comments?
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Or suggestions.
 

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Well, I can assure you that the CCW rotation and ‘clicking’ every 1/8 turn or so is completely normal for the 4x20’s.
That doesn’t mean that they don’t have to rip it apart to find the real problem.
 
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You could insist they check the valve or rebuild it first....

Telling a shop what to do is your right but not gonna go over well in most cases.

A second opinion is a maybe.....Gonna make shop #1 mad no doubt.


If they insist on splitting......Plan on spending way more bucks as thats the time to deal with "any" other issues.
Clutch ,brakes ,pto clutch & brakes..whateverelse is in there that could possibly Ever be a problem in the future.

Its a tough decision.....You got any faith in or previous experience with this dealer??
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I can assure you that the CCW rotation and ‘clicking’ every 1/8 turn or so is completely normal for the 4x20’s.
That doesn’t mean that they don’t have to rip it apart to find the real problem.
That’s his sole basis for wanting to break the tractor apart as he says JD is telling him it’s not supposed to do that.


You could insist they check the valve or rebuild it first....

Telling a shop what to do is your right but not gonna go over well in most cases.

A second opinion is a maybe.....Gonna make shop #1 mad no doubt.


If they insist on splitting......Plan on spending way more bucks as thats the time to deal with "any" other issues.
Clutch ,brakes ,pto clutch & brakes..whateverelse is in there that could possibly Ever be a problem in the future.

Its a tough decision.....You got any faith in or previous experience with this dealer??
Never had a JD before so never used this shop for anything. The advisor got defensive when I showed him in the technical manual that the clicking was normal. He said all he can go on is what JD told him. He did ask if I would leave the copy of the manual where it said that the shaft was supposed to click CCW. I thought the dealer had access to all of the shop manuals for at least every newer model JD.
 
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You own a tractor thats "x" years old.
Its possible their "techs" wern't even born yet.

If your feeling iffy......tell them you need it back to tidy up for the season and will bring it back when done for the year.
Easy out & you can explore other options....They just may not be up to the task at hand.

You need a good ole' boy mechanic thats been there before imho.
 
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