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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Working with my 4520 today and lowered the hitch and it stopped working without warning. Checked the cable and shaft that it is connected to on the rockshaft housing and both are working or turning. So it isn't a cable issue, maybe a sheared split pin internally? Anyone else have an issue like this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No power beyond circuit on this tractor. Thanks for the suggestion though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's down and won't come back up, doesn't try to lift at all. Thinking I am going to have to take it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I picked up the landplane with the 110 and brought it home yesterday since I can't load both on the trailer if the 3ph won't raise. Will bring the tractor home today and look at it more closely and order the cd for the technical manual. Right now the 820 and 110 will have to substitute for the 4520.

Won't do much of anything until I have the cd but suspect I will have to remove the top of the rockshaft to access the linkage inside. Siince it is out of warranty I will perform the repairs myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Matt,
Thanks for the reply, with the holidays and work I haven't had a chance to look at it yet. I do think it is very likely to be a linkage issue or valve issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Everything works but the rockshaft on the tractor, no change is sound when the lever is moved back and forth. The lever is operating and turning the shaft that comes out horizontally as it should. The sensor linkage on the left side seems to be okay. The "rate of drop control valve" is set properly but I did check it to be sure.
I am still suspecting the internal linkage came loose somewhere and still intend to take the top housing off to see whats up. Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thought I would post and let you guys know what the problem was. The two bolts numbered 27 worked loose and fel out. One was laying where I could reach it and I suspect one is in the lower case. Will find my magnetic stick to locate it.

This was a fault of Deere assembly not being tight enough. If you look at the second drawing on page one the bolts numbered 27 are the loose culprits. Not a big deal but two hours work anyeay.

At any rate cheap to fix thank goodness.:thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes, that was the two hours for the most part. To put it back by myself I applied the gasket to the front half and slid the cover back in place on two pieces of cardboard and lined it up started two bolts at the front. Then raised up the rear, removed the cardboard and applied sealant the rest of the way around. Eased the cover back down and bolted everything in place. Changing out the fluid tomorrow and see how I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Good work Steve! Glad it was an inexpensive repair! I wonder if this was a fairly common issue?

It worked out okay for me but I shudder to think if the bolts fell out and wedged in the gears it could have been very bad. As far as being a common problem, well it was common for me. Haven't heard of anyone else having this problem though on any of the other forums.

I should mention that having an assortment of 18mm sockets, short 1/2" drive, flex socket and 18mm stubby combination wrench would speed the process up. If I am going to do much mechanical work on this tractor I will have to add a better assortment of metric tools than I currently have.


Rob, if I were to do this again I would make a small slide plate out of tempered masonite with a cleat on the rear end to prevent the masonite from sliding forwards. Still it was easier to reinstall than I anticipated, sometimes you just have to geturdone.
 
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