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Discussion Starter #1
I think it is time for a new battery on my 1996 455.

What are the specs I need to look for when purchasing a new battery? One place I read that I need a size 45 and another said size 51 and another said U1. Are those all similar sizes?

I have the TY25881A battery for 130 hours and 38 months. It has struggled to start (from time to time) for over a year.

I guess the problem could be something other than the battery....hmmm.
 

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I think it is time for a new battery on my 1996 455.

What are the specs I need to look for when purchasing a new battery? One place I read that I need a size 45 and another said size 51 and another said U1. Are those all similar sizes?

I have the TY25881A battery for 130 hours and 38 months. It has struggled to start (from time to time) for over a year.

I guess the problem could be something other than the battery....hmmm.
If its cranking good, it isnt the battery. If its not, id get it replaced. Nothing good comes from a slow cranking diesel. Glow plugs are cheap and easy to check and replace. Mine starts easily without the glow plugs unless temps get down. I had problems with JD batteries over the years and now use a same rated walmart battery. The nice thing is its automotive size which makes it better from the beginning than a regular GT battery.
 

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coaltrain, thank you for the link.

Fozsey, it does sound like it is cranking well (I'll get the battery tested tomorrow). If the battery checks out fine, what would you recommend I check after that?
 

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I searched for threads on how to check the glow plugs but couldn't find any information.

I have a multi-meter but I don't even know where the glow plugs are located. Do you happen to know of a diagram that shows their location?
 

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I searched for threads on how to check the glow plugs but couldn't find any information.

I have a multi-meter but I don't even know where the glow plugs are located. Do you happen to know of a diagram that shows their location?
Dipstick side top of the engine under the air intake with the 22HP Diesel decal. You can see the first one here at the very back of the valve cover with the red wire. The other two are to the left moving toward the front. A simple ohms or continuity test verifies function without removal. Touch the terminal and ground. Your meter will zero out or beep if it has that. One bad glow plug matters as it only has 3.

Btw, a group 51 is what I run. The U1 is used in the 425 and has bolt connectors. A 31 is too big.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I must have misplaced my multimeter. I will look for it again today.

There is one thing that I have noticed when the 455 doesn't start but cranks. If I push the brake lever further than I used to it seems to start (it could just be a coincidence). Would there be some type of circuit connection issue with the brake sending the signal that it is safe to start the engine?

Fozsey, thanks for the picture. That helps me locate the glow plugs.
 

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Sounds like you need to find the brake safety switch and check it out, it maybe needing an adjustment. Yes it has to be depressed and the hydro in neutral and your butt in the seat for it to start.
 

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I must have misplaced my multimeter. I will look for it again today.

There is one thing that I have noticed when the 455 doesn't start but cranks. If I push the brake lever further than I used to it seems to start (it could just be a coincidence). Would there be some type of circuit connection issue with the brake sending the signal that it is safe to start the engine?

Fozsey, thanks for the picture. That helps me locate the glow plugs.
That switch disables the crank circuit if functioning correctly. When you turn the key on with the pedal up the dash lights will run and the glow plug controller will run but fuel pump won't run and you should have a "no crank" condition. Pressing the brake will click the fuel pump relay with very audible click and the fuel pump will run. This doesnt require cranking to verify function. Your glow plug controller will light the dash light up and the glow plugs will continue to run, depending on engine temp, for several seconds even after the light goes out whether the engine is running or the brake pedal is depressed or not as long as the key is turned to run. You can determine where the switch is engaging by turning the key to start with the brake up and depress it until it cranks. Your fuel pump and cranking should come in simultaneously.

You can also use a test light to verify glow plug controller function by using a 12v test light and grounding the light and putting the probe on the terminal of a glow plug. Turning the key to run will light the test light and the plug will remain lit until the controller disables it sometimes for 15 or more seconds. Starting the engine isn't necessary.

Hopefully, this helps and isn't too confusing.
 
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