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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I have a 460 loader attached to my 4700. For a few years, the loader holders (I call them paddles) do not move in sync. Referring to the attached diagram, I find that the synchronizing bar (#8) doesn't do its job. The whole bar twists (30+ degrees) since there seems that one of the holders doesn't move as quickly as the other.

At times, the cotter pin (#4) breaks, but even if I use a steel nail, I still can't get the holders to move in unison – or to line up. The bar just remains twisted.

As you can imagine, it takes a bit of finesse to attach my bucket or forks.

I am wondering what I can do to get the two holders to move more closely in unison so that they don't stress the bar or break my cotter pins? It is like the hydraulic pressure is different on both sides of the loader boom?

Or, do I need a new bar? They are quite expensive so I would rather avoid buying one to find out it doesn't work.

Thank you


Loader Boom.png
 

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i regularly bottom/top both tilt and lift cylinders on my 460 loader and my other loaders ...this is a technique for some construction equipment to keep duals in phase with each other....not sure if it helps on one setup like the 460 but i still do it

also this is a JD bulletin not on the 460 specifically but it references a fix for this problem on the next size larger loaders (5 series) and would probably be what i would do if i have the same problem your having

Bucket Cylinders do not Extend Equally : Bucket cylinders and loader quick attach brackets are held in alignment by the timing rod.
 

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This is a fairly common issue, it's usually just broken pins but you already accounted for that. As the holes wear slightly, the extra "slop" is seen more at the end of the QA shoes. You can drill the holes out and put in a larger and better fitting pins, but it will wear too leaving you with the same issue and less room to drill in the future.
You also cannot rule out a bad cylinder, especially on a machine of this age. If the piston seals of one are leaking by internally, then the other cylinder is doing the majority of the work and the leaking cylinder is dragging along for the ride.

I've never had a real issue getting the two shoes inline to attack the forks or bucket, all you need to do is drive up and "push" the one thats sticking out further against the implement and they should even out since the two cylinders are plumbed in parallel. As one cylinder retracts the fluid in it will get pushed out and make the other cylinder extend.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your replies. There isn't much slop in the cotter pin holes. They are pretty tight. I drew a straight line with a felt marker along the timing rod and then operated the loader without an attachment. The bar actually twisted so the straight line started started to look like a barber pole stripe. It twisted to about 45 degrees before the cotter pins limited the separation.

The service bulletin suggests a bigger pin and enlarging the holes on the timing rod, but if the timing rod is that flexible, it really won't matter.

That is why I wondered if the hydraulics need some sort of adjustment so both paddles/shoes.

I don't really have a problem getting the attachments on with the shoes misaligned, but it simply bothers me that I have this problem and can't fix it.
 

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If the timing bar is twisting like that, you either have something binding mechanically, or a bad cylinder as I mentioned.
 
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If the timing bar is twisting like that, you either have something binding mechanically, or a bad cylinder as I mentioned.

yep to twist the bar like that something is fighting each other.....im guessing the slow cylinder is bypassing and needs repacked .....be sure and let us know as i have the same loader
 

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I would think a cylinder leaking past the piston wouldn't offer up the kind of resistance the OP is experiencing.
I would suspect as more likely that one of the cylinders is binding, or perhaps bound at the cylinder or arm mounting points.
 

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looked mine over this afternoon.....not much to bind up on the tilt assembly....


one thing you might look at is when you lift the arms up at the very bottom a the bucket pivot point there is a hole in the frame to get to a grease zerk to grease the bottom pivot ....i in the past have gotten rocks jambed in the hole with enough force to shear off the grease zerk ...point is something jambed in the lower hole on one side could possibly provide the resistance noted.
 

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Mine does that too. Even breaks grade 8 bolts. Guess I need to look into the cylinders and make sure they are ok. Its definitely getting up there in hours so its no surprise really.

I usually just rotate the 'paddles' all the way forward (down) and then hook the top hooks of the implement, and then roll it back up.
 
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