Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 89 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I decided to change out the UHMW / Plastic Impeller on my 47 snowblower for piece of mind. Not that I've had any trouble with it yet; but have heard some horror stories about these plastic fans going South for various reasons. My old 47 snowblower had the steel impeller and I never did have a problem with it at all. Ordered the replacement impeller, p/n AM109105 from Green Farm Parts and it arrived a few days ago. $252.86 including shipping.

For some who may be interested, here's what it took to get the job done.

Remove the snowblower from the quick hitch and roll it forward so the drive shaft is facing up. Remove the safety wire and drive-out the roll pin that retains the implement driveshaft yoke to the drive sprocket shaft:

2014-11-29 14.41.21.jpg

Remove the implement drive shaft.

2014-11-29 14.42.46.jpg

Loosen the (4) Nuts (1/2" wrench) that secure the drive sprocket shaft bracket, slide the bracket towards the large driven sprocket. This will loosen the drive chain. Remove the drive chain from the driven sprocket.

2014-11-29 14.47.48.jpg

Loosen the (2) 3/8" square set screws on the driven sprocket hub. Remove the sprocket from the shaft.

2014-11-29 14.49.39.jpg

Loosen the 5/32" set screw and remove the retainer collar from the shaft.

2014-11-29 14.51.01.jpg

Roll the blower back unto its base and remove (3) bolts (1/2" wrench) that attach the auger shaft end bearings at the flange retainers on each side of the blower housing.

2014-11-29 14.53.32.jpg 2014-11-29 14.53.47.jpg 2014-11-29 14.56.16.jpg

Remove the two bolts that attach the gearbox to the support bracket (1/2" wrench)

2014-11-29 14.57.13.jpg

You can now remove the auger assembly, gearbox and impeller fan forward and out of the blower housing.

2014-11-29 14.59.09.jpg

Slide the plastic impeller from the shaft. Remove the shear bolt (7/16" wrench) that attaches the flat bracket to the drive hub and remove the drive bracket.

2014-11-29 15.02.59.jpg

Loosen the 1/4" set screws that attach drive hub to the main shaft.

2014-11-29 15.09.19.jpg

This photo shows both impellers for comparison. The steel impeller is considerably heavier than the plastic impeller.

2014-11-29 15.06.24.jpg

Replace the steel impeller onto the shaft and retain with the shear bolt previously removed. Leave the drive hub set screws loose at this time. Position the auger assembly, gearbox and impeller in front of the blower housing in preparation to reinstall in the unit. It may be helpful to tip the blower housing back unto the rear brackets to make placement and reinstallation easier.

2014-11-29 15.24.41.jpg 2014-11-29 15.24.11-2.jpg

Reinstall the entire assembly into the blower housing. You may need to rotate the impeller to clear the support bracket. Guide the shaft through the rear support bearing at the back of the impeller housing. Install the auger shaft flange bearing spacers by tilting the assembly left to right in order to gain necessary clearance. Reinstall the flange bearing and gearbox retaining bolts. Once all bolts are in place tighten securely to ~ 25 Ft. Lbs. Push the impeller back into the fan housing until it bottoms out and tighten the 1/4" set screws on the drive hub.

Rotate the entire blower housing forward so the drive end is facing up. Reinstall the shaft retainer collar with the recess facing towards the bearing. Rotate the collar clockwise until it locks, then tighten the 5/32" set screw.

Reinstall the driven sprocket w. key onto the shaft but do not tighten the set screws. Reinstall the drive chain between the sprockets. Adjust the slack out of the chain by moving the input shaft bracket away from the driven sprocket. Use a small straight edge to align the sprockets. Tighten the driven sprocket set screws using a 3/8" wrench. Adjust the chain tension so there's about 1/8" deflection on each side. Tighten the (4) 1/2" nuts to ~25 Ft. Lbs.

Install the implement drive shaft yoke with key onto the drive sprocket shaft and reinstall the roll pin. Safety wire the roll pin into place and that's it. Reattach the blower and test it out.

Had a few other photos to post but reached the maximum of 15 attachments. Hope this helps others who may be interested in replacing their 47 / 54 snowblower impeller. It's not cheap but you can't put a price on reliability and piece of mind, not to mention downtime at the worst possible time.

:greentractorride:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
A few additional photos to assist with this project:

Auger assembly, gearbox and impeller reinstalled into blower housing.

2014-11-29 15.30.32.jpg

Tightening the shaft retainer collar.

2014-11-29 15.52.08.jpg

Driven sprocket installed.

2014-11-29 15.53.41.jpg

Aligning sprockets.

2014-11-29 16.09.49.jpg

Implement driveshaft reinstalled and safety wired.

2014-11-29 16.29.00.jpg

Cleaned up and ready to to reinstall.

2014-11-29 16.44.30.jpg

Ready to work.

2014-11-29 18.11.25.jpg
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,982 Posts
Excellent post sir! :thumbup1gif:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
So I decided to change out the UHMW / Plastic Impeller on my 47 snowblower for piece of mind. Not that I've had any trouble with it yet; but have heard some horror stories about these plastic fans going South for various reasons. My old 47 snowblower had the steel impeller and I never did have a problem with it at all. Ordered the replacement impeller, p/n AM109105 from Green Farm Parts and it arrived a few days ago. $252.86 including shipping.

For some who may be interested, here's what it took to get the job done.

Remove the snowblower from the quick hitch and roll it forward so the drive shaft is facing up. Remove the safety wire and drive-out the roll pin that retains the implement driveshaft yoke to the drive sprocket shaft:

View attachment 36044

Remove the implement drive shaft.

View attachment 36045

Loosen the (4) Nuts (1/2" wrench) that secure the drive sprocket shaft bracket, slide the bracket towards the large driven sprocket. This will loosen the drive chain. Remove the drive chain from the driven sprocket.

View attachment 36048

Loosen the (2) 3/8" square set screws on the driven sprocket hub. Remove the sprocket from the shaft.

View attachment 36049

Loosen the 5/32" set screw and remove the retainer collar from the shaft.

View attachment 36050

Roll the blower back unto its base and remove (3) bolts (1/2" wrench) that attach the auger shaft end bearings at the flange retainers on each side of the blower housing.

View attachment 36051 View attachment 36053 View attachment 36054

Remove the two bolts that attach the gearbox to the support bracket (1/2" wrench)

View attachment 36055

You can now remove the auger assembly, gearbox and impeller fan forward and out of the blower housing.

View attachment 36058

Slide the plastic impeller from the shaft. Remove the shear bolt (7/16" wrench) that attaches the flat bracket to the drive hub and remove the drive bracket.

View attachment 36059

Loosen the 1/4" set screws that attach drive hub to the main shaft.

View attachment 36060

This photo shows both impellers for comparison. The steel impeller is considerably heavier than the plastic impeller.

View attachment 36061

Replace the steel impeller onto the shaft and retain with the shear bolt previously removed. Leave the drive hub set screws loose at this time. Position the auger assembly, gearbox and impeller in front of the blower housing in preparation to reinstall in the unit. It may be helpful to tip the blower housing back unto the rear brackets to make placement and reinstallation easier.

View attachment 36066 View attachment 36062

Reinstall the entire assembly into the blower housing. You may need to rotate the impeller to clear the support bracket. Guide the shaft through the rear support bearing at the back of the impeller housing. Install the auger shaft flange bearing spacers by tilting the assembly left to right in order to gain necessary clearance. Reinstall the flange bearing and gearbox retaining bolts. Once all bolts are in place tighten securely to ~ 25 Ft. Lbs. Push the impeller back into the fan housing until it bottoms out and tighten the 1/4" set screws on the drive hub.

Rotate the entire blower housing forward so the drive end is facing up. Reinstall the shaft retainer collar with the recess facing towards the bearing. Rotate the collar clockwise until it locks, then tighten the 5/32" set screw.

Reinstall the driven sprocket w. key onto the shaft but do not tighten the set screws. Reinstall the drive chain between the sprockets. Adjust the slack out of the chain by moving the input shaft bracket away from the driven sprocket. Use a small straight edge to align the sprockets. Tighten the driven sprocket set screws using a 3/8" wrench. Adjust the chain tension so there's about 1/8" deflection on each side. Tighten the (4) 1/2" nuts to ~25 Ft. Lbs.

Install the implement drive shaft yoke with key onto the drive sprocket shaft and reinstall the roll pin. Safety wire the roll pin into place and that's it. Reattach the blower and test it out.

Had a few other photos to post but reached the maximum of 15 attachments. Hope this helps others who may be interested in replacing their 47 / 54 snowblower impeller. It's not cheap but you can't put a price on reliability and piece of mind, not to mention downtime at the worst possible time.

:greentractorride:

Thanks a lot for taking the time to do this. Not too bad.

Does the implement drive shaft have to come off to loosen the chain?
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigJim55

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Phil D,

No, you do not have to remove the implement driveshaft to either loosen or tighten the drive chain.

Frank
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigJim55

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
One other quick question. Was the sprocket difficult to get off the shaft once the set screws were removed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Your a machine!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Superglidesport

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
One other quick question. Was the sprocket difficult to get off the shaft once the set screws were removed?
No. It slipped right off.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigJim55

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
No. It slipped right off.

Just ordered my new impeller. No more worries and better throwing distance. I noticed right away the new 54 didn't throw the snow as far as the 47 I had with the steel impeller.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Just ordered my new impeller. No more worries and better throwing distance. I noticed right away the new 54 didn't throw the snow as far as the 47 I had with the steel impeller.
The steel impeller has a cupped leading edge on each fan blade. This might make a difference with heavy, wet snow by feeding the fan housing.

2014-11-29 15.06.24.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigJim55

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
Excellent writeup. Know this is an after thought but, wish there was a mention of how much each impeller weighed in comparison. As I was under pressure to get my blower repaired due to an impending storm.... My dealer did a PUD in one day (Pickup and Delivery) for an excellent turn-around. They also changed out the drive bearings. The cost was minimal. Labor was minimal. Peace of Mind...Priceless!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Excellent writeup. Know this is an after thought but, wish there was a mention of how much each impeller weighed in comparison. As I was under pressure to get my blower repaired due to an impending storm.... My dealer did a PUD in one day (Pickup and Delivery) for an excellent turn-around. They also changed out the drive bearings. The cost was minimal. Labor was minimal. Peace of Mind...Priceless!
HouseMouse,

I don't have a scale that would accurately weigh each but an estimate would be ~ 2 Lbs. for the plastic VS. 4 Lbs. for the steel impeller. I checked the bearings when everything was apart. They all turned easily and ran true. Again, I'm going on the third season with this 47 SB and my old 47 was probably about 12 years old. Never had a problem with it but it was cleaned and lubricated regularly.

Maybe we can ask Phil D to weigh each impeller when he changes his out?

Frank
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
HouseMouse,

I don't have a scale that would accurately weigh each but an estimate would be ~ 2 Lbs. for the plastic VS. 4 Lbs. for the steel impeller. I checked the bearings when everything was apart. They all turned easily and ran true. Again, I'm going on the third season with this 47 SB and my old 47 was probably about 12 years old. Never had a problem with it but it was cleaned and lubricated regularly.

Maybe we can ask Phil D to weigh each impeller when he changes his out?

Frank

In will be happy to weigh the 2 impellers and share the results. It will be a little while as I just ordered the replacement.

Thanks again Frank for posting the procedure.

Phil
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,066 Posts
Great writeup, thanks for taking the time to share this info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
675 Posts
I just have to ask, Do you have to remove the chain and sprocket? Could you just remove every thing from the front?

Doug
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I just have to ask, Do you have to remove the chain and sprocket? Could you just remove every thing from the front?

Doug
Doug,

You have to remove the chain and driven sprocket to get at the shaft retainer. Otherwise it would prevent removing the gearbox & auger assembly from the front of the blower housing.

Frank
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigJim55

·
Registered
Joined
·
675 Posts
Thanks!

Doug
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,593 Posts
Good show! :clap:
 

·
Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
·
38,123 Posts
A master at helping others, thanks Superglidesport.
 
1 - 20 of 89 Posts
Top