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Well I was out blowing snow and ice when I sheared a bolt on the left side of my 47" snow blower and now it makes a very BAD knocking noise when I engage the blower at idle. (Don't what to take it further)When I hold the first stage auger I noted the second stage seems to have a lot of radial free play (1/2") and I also noted witness marks in the second stage area of the blower. As I can't sit on the tractor and also witness the rotation knocking issue I'm at a loss as to what I broke? I have disconnected the drive shaft from the blower and engaged the PTO and that's not the problem. Blower knocking only!!

Ideas to trouble shoot???

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See if you bent an auger. I did that once.

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Did you check the shears there are 3, 2 for the augers and 1 for the second stage.....
 
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I held both sides of the auger to the second stage and believe there aren't any further shear bolts broken, but I'm not sure how I would check for a bent auger other than a visual which at this point I can't see. I've hand rotated the system as best as I can at this point and didn't see any issues
 

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Keep checking, it is there. You may need to pull, push, and pry on things to see if you can get them out of alignment.
 

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If the auger slides one way or another, it can hit the bolts that hold the shoes on. I've got to adjust mine from time to time.
 

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Atten RandyM
Took your advice and put the PTO in neutral and rolled the blower unit and behold.... The left auger that sheared the pin had a outside bent paddle and I fixed it in 5 seconds to get the clearance back from the bolts that hold the skid plates. If you look close on the blowers yellow paint you can see where something (ice?) hit and left a gouge in the paint

Over reaction on my part, but GTT always gets my head back into place.. Thanks RandyM

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Well I was out blowing snow and ice when I sheared a bolt on the left side of my 47" snow blower and now it makes a very BAD knocking noise when I engage the blower at idle. (Don't what to take it further)When I hold the first stage auger I noted the second stage seems to have a lot of radial free play (1/2") and I also noted witness marks in the second stage area of the blower. As I can't sit on the tractor and also witness the rotation knocking issue I'm at a loss as to what I broke? I have disconnected the drive shaft from the blower and engaged the PTO and that's not the problem. Blower knocking only!!

Ideas to trouble shoot???

View attachment 109914
That amount of free play is how my 47" blower has been for years and it functions just fine. Glad you solved the issue, often it is just that simple. The blower is a lot tougher than people think. The sheer bolts break just as they are supposed to in order to protect the rest of the operation. I have bent the blower auger ( 4 vane one in the chute) and I heated it red hot with a torch, straightened it back out and away it goes.

Just keep the chain lubed and adjusted correctly and grease the bearings and it should serve you a long time. :good2:
 

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Atten RandyM
Took your advice and put the PTO in neutral and rolled the blower unit and behold.... The left auger that sheared the pin had a outside bent paddle and I fixed it in 5 seconds to get the clearance back from the bolts that hold the skid plates. If you look close on the blowers yellow paint you can see where something (ice?) hit and left a gouge in the paint

Over reaction on my part, but GTT always gets my head back into place.. Thanks RandyM
Excellent! :thumbup1gif: Now back to moving snow.
 
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Mine has a half inch of play. Sounds like there's a bunch of rocks in there. I was told it's normal...........:dunno:

Check out post #133.

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/17374-snowblower-problem-14.html#post485121
Join the crowd Sterling! As you posted; you will see mine and many others had or have the same problem.. Ya the dealer and JD say it's normal,, it is not! Why would any brand new blower sound like this? Great advertisement; why not to buy a JD blower! The total crap part; They know this exists yet they do nothing about it!!!! I had a friend come over to cut a gun lock off and he heard my blower and said he was glad he bought a simplicity! What's that say??? :banghead:
 

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I held both sides of the auger to the second stage and believe there aren't any further shear bolts broken, but I'm not sure how I would check for a bent auger other than a visual which at this point I can't see. I've hand rotated the system as best as I can at this point and didn't see any issues
WARNING:
If you are brave and not worried about any kids or animals. Put a weight on the seat, you will fool the seat switch.. Just watch yourself with a blower. it only takes a second to get caught up in it.. I by-passed my seat and RIO switch. My unit will still shut the pto off if the angle is to steep on a side run... Engine still runs, pto will not engage until you push in the pto knob and pull it back out again..
Glad you figured out your issue, nice when it is that easy..
 

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Just keep the chain lubed and adjusted correctly and grease the bearings and it should serve you a long time. :good2:
There in lies my first problem. I cannot adjust the chain anywhere near what it is "supposed to be adjusted to" mainly because of the small chain gear. The big one seems pretty good, as the issue occurs ever revolution of the small gear. Have been toying with the idea of purchasing a shaft and separate gear, as I would imagine all the replacement gears from JD are also just so much junk. Thinking I want to change the whole drive set up to the older #50 chain set up, but with real parts, not purchased from John Deere. I have the heavy duty metal impeller already, so I am thinking on purchasing parts piece by piece until I can rebuild the entire blower with good parts. Have to get a new job first though.

In so far as the warble that is allowed in the front carrier, yep I noticed that too. sloppy design. But for the most part, if the bearings are aligned when actually blowing, it should allow things to be ok.
What I am wondering though, would the bearings be better set so that there is a slight amount of movement allowed within the clamshells? The bolts are all locking bolts. Why would JD use those and not lock washers? I have not tried it, but even doing the tighten routine, I still see warble (run out) in the shaft when running.

I hope it warms up again so I can try another thought I have had. Going to put my floor jack under the shaft, while rotating the shaft with the bearings loosened, slowly, not with the tractor running. When I get it adjusted that it drags all the way round with no shaft or carrier movement, I want to tighten it up and see if the shaft warble goes away when unsupported. The only way I can see to get alignment better than doing the multiple tightening to allow it to settle. That did not work as well as I had hoped. You have movement as the joints rotate, so I want to see if that can be tweaked to allow the run out I am seeing in she shaft, most predominate at the cardigan joints to be eliminated.

Thoughts on the above, as to if it will work or be worth the effort.

Also, I think I will take a video of the blower before I do anything. I wish I had a dB meter to quantify if things were actually any different after the adjustments.
 
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WARNING:
If you are brave and not worried about any kids or animals. Put a weight on the seat, you will fool the seat switch.. Just watch yourself with a blower. it only takes a second to get caught up in it.. I by-passed my seat and RIO switch. ..
I think I would STRONGLY advise you to borrow the neighbor or grab someone off the street and have them sit on the seat for just a moment so you can watch the rotation, etc., while at least someone is sitting on the tractor. Safety first, and I know Jeff Taylor is advocating being safe as well.

There in lies my first problem. I cannot adjust the chain anywhere near what it is "supposed to be adjusted to" mainly because of the small chain gear. The big one seems pretty good, as the issue occurs ever revolution of the small gear. Have been toying with the idea of purchasing a shaft and separate gear, as I would imagine all the replacement gears from JD are also just so much junk. Thinking I want to change the whole drive set up to the older #50 chain set up, but with real parts, not purchased from John Deere. I have the heavy duty metal impeller already, so I am thinking on purchasing parts piece by piece until I can rebuild the entire blower with good parts. Have to get a new job first though.

In so far as the warble that is allowed in the front carrier, yep I noticed that too. sloppy design. But for the most part, if the bearings are aligned when actually blowing, it should allow things to be ok.
What I am wondering though, would the bearings be better set so that there is a slight amount of movement allowed within the clamshells? The bolts are all locking bolts. Why would JD use those and not lock washers? I have not tried it, but even doing the tighten routine, I still see warble (run out) in the shaft when running.

I hope it warms up again so I can try another thought I have had. Going to put my floor jack under the shaft, while rotating the shaft with the bearings loosened, slowly, not with the tractor running. When I get it adjusted that it drags all the way round with no shaft or carrier movement, I want to tighten it up and see if the shaft warble goes away when unsupported. The only way I can see to get alignment better than doing the multiple tightening to allow it to settle. That did not work as well as I had hoped. You have movement as the joints rotate, so I want to see if that can be tweaked to allow the run out I am seeing in she shaft, most predominate at the cardigan joints to be eliminated.

Thoughts on the above, as to if it will work or be worth the effort.

Also, I think I will take a video of the blower before I do anything. I wish I had a dB meter to quantify if things were actually any different after the adjustments.
I like the idea you just mentioned and I can't see how it can be harmful. Let us know the results. The video is also a good idea.

Do you know others in your area who run the same blower as you do, even if it is on a different tractor model? Just curious if you have others for comparison beyond the new stuff at the dealers which hasn't been run or broken it yet.......
 
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47 blower issues

I have been following the postings and I know a 47 and 54 are some what different but also the same in many items. When I rebuilt mine I noticed play in the front auger shaft (the inside one that has the gear on the end to drive the auger) AS I states I replaced all my bearings with Timken RA 100RRB+COL. That said when I I worked the shaft into the gear box so it was tight then locked the collar onto the shaft and bearing. The 47 has the same set up. One thing that I may ask did you install the panels that add strength to the ends?? If not I am thinking you may have a issue with the panel flexing under load. That will allow the shaft to move and not engage with the teeth in the gear box. I did notice when I took off the cover of the gear box and cleaned it there is nothing to hold the shaft into the drive gear. So I made very sure to make the shaft snug into that gear. Second the play maybe in a bad bearing race or collar. The other issue that has been mentioned is the loose fan I believe. I placed a 2 very thin shim washers behind the fan where it contacts the bearing in the back of the fan. I also changed out the set screws to Square head set setscrew bolts. also all set screws in the bearings and the fan I used blue hydraulic fitting locker. NO rattles or movement. Seems to have to have worked so far. I can say one thing the Timken bearings sure beat the JD ones for quality and are double sealed since none even the original Deere ones are grease able. I do agree the chain drive set up stinks. If you do not have a chain breaker then use a small grinder or Dremel tool and grind the penned over pins flat with one of the links and use a punch to drive apart. Works good in a pinch. I had no issues with alignment of the bearings at all. The other think that may be causing the issue is the locking collar is not tight allowing the shaft to spin iin the bearing race and not the bearing turning and that will cause a lot of noise and vibration. Static run it for a few minutes and put some snow on the bearings and see if it melts fast if it does that is your bad one.

Side note the blower was used one tine to plow the gravel drive before the garage burned. I did find 2 broken locking collar. Why I do not know as hey were on the inner auger shaft and the paint on the ends was not burn and the paint on the augers was not burnt. All the heat damage was from the top of the fan up. So I am sure was not broken by heating
 

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I think I would STRONGLY advise you to borrow the neighbor or grab someone off the street and have them sit on the seat for just a moment so you can watch the rotation, etc., while at least someone is sitting on the tractor. Safety first, and I know Jeff Taylor is advocating being safe as well.


For sure I am advocating safety. But in a pinch doing what I stated will work, you just need to be aware., very aware, and stay away,. You get caught up in a blower or anything that spins and you will be in serious trouble.. If anyone can work in a factory they could take the responsible care to "observe". You see an issue you shut it down, then work on it.. MY God I don't even want to see a visual in my head of such an accident. I have seen way to many OSHA films!!! I have also seen what happens to farmers with PTO shafts catching their hands and clothing.. Fingers missing, legs missing,, you all get the picture.. I guess I am sorry to even mention what I did. Maybe I'm to cautious to realize someone here could get hurt doing such a thing, you have a tractor or garden tractor you know the risks, if you don't you should not have one.. Thanks Sulley for mentioning I was advocating safety.. I take to many things for granted I guess.. :hi:
 
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There in lies my first problem. I cannot adjust the chain anywhere near what it is "supposed to be adjusted to" mainly because of the small chain gear. The big one seems pretty good, as the issue occurs ever revolution of the small gear. Have been toying with the idea of purchasing a shaft and separate gear, as I would imagine all the replacement gears from JD are also just so much junk. Thinking I want to change the whole drive set up to the older #50 chain set up, but with real parts, not purchased from John Deere. I have the heavy duty metal impeller already, so I am thinking on purchasing parts piece by piece until I can rebuild the entire blower with good parts. Have to get a new job first though.

In so far as the warble that is allowed in the front carrier, yep I noticed that too. sloppy design. But for the most part, if the bearings are aligned when actually blowing, it should allow things to be ok.
What I am wondering though, would the bearings be better set so that there is a slight amount of movement allowed within the clamshells? The bolts are all locking bolts. Why would JD use those and not lock washers? I have not tried it, but even doing the tighten routine, I still see warble (run out) in the shaft when running.

I hope it warms up again so I can try another thought I have had. Going to put my floor jack under the shaft, while rotating the shaft with the bearings loosened, slowly, not with the tractor running. When I get it adjusted that it drags all the way round with no shaft or carrier movement, I want to tighten it up and see if the shaft warble goes away when unsupported. The only way I can see to get alignment better than doing the multiple tightening to allow it to settle. That did not work as well as I had hoped. You have movement as the joints rotate, so I want to see if that can be tweaked to allow the run out I am seeing in she shaft, most predominate at the cardigan joints to be eliminated.

Thoughts on the above, as to if it will work or be worth the effort.

Also, I think I will take a video of the blower before I do anything. I wish I had a dB meter to quantify if things were actually any different after the adjustments.
I have a 47 and 54 and replaced the short jackshaft on both of them JD welded the sprocket on crooked the chain gets tight then loose as it makes a revolution, then in time it spits the grease out of the bearings. I have about 10 years of snow removal on my 47 and 2 years on my 54 they see a lot of snow and debris go through them. I do close to 70 residential driveways up here in central Wis.
 

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Small detail

Here is a small important fact:

Chain use Sprockets
Belts use Pulleys
Gears mesh with each other
 

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I have a 47 and 54 and replaced the short jackshaft on both of them JD welded the sprocket on crooked the chain gets tight then loose as it makes a revolution, then in time it spits the grease out of the bearings. I have about 10 years of snow removal on my 47 and 2 years on my 54 they see a lot of snow and debris go through them. I do close to 70 residential driveways up here in central Wis.
Yeah that is my problem and why i want a real shaft and sprockets and a quality chain and bearings. $h1t manufacturing in India and China.

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I have my 47 in pcs right now. First real snow she quit. On mine the large sprocket drifted back causing the chain to miss align. I ran this way for a while looking at the small sprocket. It finally broke the chain. The small sprocket the teeth are pointed and bent over. The big one looks OK. The small sprocket is welded to the shaft it a unit. I would caution all JD blower owners to inspect the alignment and check the tightness of the chain. I had even sprayed lube on the chain before installing but never noticed the problem.
 
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