[DatButch]

Hey guys. I’m trying to replace the plastic impeller with a metal one on my 47in quick attach snow blower (2019, with the enclosed gears).
So far, I was able to disassemble pretty much everything with only a bit of a jam removing the pto shaft/connector from the gearbox.
But now, I cannot remove the impeller from the shaft. It will not budge. I worked it so hard that it even started creating a lip on the end I’m hammering, which I would like to avoid making worst.
I heated it with a propane torch but the impeller being plastic, it’s not perfect. It is sleeping vertically with some PB Buster on the top end.

anyone has an idea how to make this happen?

thanks!

 

[SulleyBear]

Since you are replacing the impeller, I would heat the collar on the shaft as needed. Its hard to get enough heat with propane, perhaps try MAP gas torch if you don't have access to a traditional torch set. It's likely to ruin the plastic impeller but you are replacing it anyways. The keys rust to the hub and the hubs rust to the shaft on these, so this isn't uncommon.

Also, if you have a manual gear puller, I would use the jaws to grab the impeller and pull up on it while heating the collar, providing the "lift" to get the impeller off the shaft. Also, sometimes hitting the end of the shaft with a dead blow hammer can help break things loose. I think you are on the right track, it just needs to soak in penetrating oil and loosen.

You can also try laying the auger down so the impeller is positioned like when its installed, and if you have a large open end wrench, put it around the base of the shaft where the collar meets the key and then hit the wrench with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer, to help "drive" the impeller towards the end of the shaft. The wrench needs to fit over the shaft but not over the collar. You can also drive the collar with a large flat headed punch, if you have one, just keep rotating it around the collar on the impeller so you are driving it in different places.

Penetrating oil and time are going to be your best friends, with heat a close second. Heat the impeller collar, not the shaft as you don't want to transfer any more heat than necessary into the gear box..........

 

[John Deere 1025R TLB]

Hey guys. I’m trying to replace the plastic impeller with a metal one on my 47in quick attach snow blower (2019, with the enclosed gears).
So far, I was able to disassemble pretty much everything with only a bit of a jam removing the pto shaft/connector from the gearbox.
But now, I cannot remove the impeller from the shaft. It will not budge. I worked it so hard that it even started creating a lip on the end I’m hammering, which I would like to avoid making worst.
I heated it with a propane torch but the impeller being plastic, it’s not perfect. It is sleeping vertically with some PB Buster on the top end.

anyone has an idea how to make this happen?

thanks! View attachment 800955

If like mine you will end up cutting the impeller off the hex inner driver and then end up cutting the hex off the shaft. Probably rusted solid. They don't put anti sieze on the shaft and it is a straight shot, no bushings on either end.
You will need a new impeller.. I would suggest the older steel impeller. It can be tapped for an impeller grease zerk. This really needs one. Mine was a 2014, so maybe not as bad as mine, but it is bad.

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[gpdc]

if i recall right.....my b/n 47 practically fell apart when i took it all apart to coat it with snoslip.....a friend has had your problem & we were thinking of an end of shaft zerk & small cross hole to alleviate the shaft/key melting together......is there a roll pin in there?

 

[Deere Ol Man]

@DatButch

There are threads about replacing the part on the sight. Not to break you heart. but several who have had the exact problem you have did the following:

1. Cut the plastic impeller off the inner sleeve. It's a pain in the BUTT, but you have to get to the sleeve.
2. Heat the sleeve and use "impact" to loosen the sleeve from the shaft. If it were me I would use a large punch and hammer. I would hit the hex nut near the gear box and drive the sleeve towards the auger end.
3. Once it moves use a large wrench and work the shaft back and forth until it moves some what freely. Then finish driving the sleeve off the shaft.

One other way is after you have cut the impeller off the shaft cut a slot the length in the sleeve full length. Don't worry if you nick the shaft it won't hurt it's functionality.

As I said there are threads on this very subject. Maybe some one can led you to them. My search foo is week today.

Steve

 

[quackaddict]

I did this on a 47 belt snowblower. I echo everyone elses comments. Cut the fan off and heat the hex sleeve.

When you do get it free, make sure you goob some anti seize on that shaft when installing the new one. I also take the shear bolt out and spin the fan on the shaft a couple times a year.

Its amazing to me that mother deere cant spring for .02 worth of lubricant while making a 4k snowblower.

 

[John Deere 1025R TLB]

@DatButch

There are threads about replacing the part on the sight. Not to break you heart. but several who have had the exact problem you have did the following:

1. Cut the plastic impeller off the inner sleeve. It's a pain in the BUTT, but you have to get to the sleeve.
2. Heat the sleeve and use "impact" to loosen the sleeve from the shaft. If it were me I would use a large punch and hammer. I would hit the hex nut near the gear box and drive the sleeve towards the auger end.
3. Once it moves use a large wrench and work the shaft back and forth until it moves some what freely. Then finish driving the sleeve off the shaft.

One other way is after you have cut the impeller off the shaft cut a slot the length in the sleeve full length. Don't worry if you nick the shaft it won't hurt it's functionality.

As I said there are threads on this very subject. Maybe some one can led you to them. My search foo is week today.

Steve

Mine was sliced to the shaft and took hours to get it loosened which required driving it off by wedging between the inner portion of the failed impeller and its binder on the shaft. Was terrible to do. Thought I might have to cut the second cut to split it entirely.

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[DatButch]

Thanks guys. A week of soaking and I’m not better. How did you cut the fan off the sleeve?

 

[John Deere 1025R TLB]

Thanks guys. A week of soaking and I’m not better. How did you cut the fan off the sleeve?

Dat,
I used a right angled grinder to cut the hex, but before to cut the plastic I used a reciprocating saw with a wood blade. Must be cut in two spots as there are locking blocks that you cannot slide it off. It must be separated from the hex.
Bill

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[DatButch]

Allright. I tried one last time with heat. Figured when I heat it the plastic heats. Heated the plastic a lot and was able to cut it with metal cutters and a knife.

Then, cut the hex with a grinder.

Took 10 minutes start to finished. I’m a little mad I didn’t do this first.
I grind the end of the shaft to correct the damage from my pounding at the beginning and the new fan fits easily but stops where it is rusted. I’ll buff it to bare metal and grease it like crazy.

 

[DatButch]

Still have one question. Although it was upside down, it was not leaking when I started all this. Now, the bearing is leaking. Could it just be that the oil is too thin because the shaft is really hot from all the heating? God I don’t want to replace the bearing.

 

[rwmeyer]

Heating to soften/remove fan probably migrated back to damage/destroy the seal. If it leaks, it's shot and needs replacing! I can't tell for sure, but it looks like you may have a shaft seal and not a sealed bearing. Which ever, it needs replacing.

Also, when you reassemble, don't use grease on the shaft, use an anti-seize compound as this will prevent galvanic corrosion... a process in which 2 dissimilar metals create an electric charge and literally weld the 2 metals together... Bob

 

[Deere Ol Man]

@DatButch
My search foo returned for a minute.

parts list for the leaking gear box.

Looks like all you'll need is the seal.

Steve

 

[ejb69]

I was kinda thinking of replacing my plastic impeller. It works ok , was just thinking of up grading to steal and the enclosed chain . I’m pretty sure I could build some type of a puller to aid with removing the impeller. But sure seems like a lot of effort to fix something that isn’t broken.

 

[DatButch]

Heating to soften/remove fan probably migrated back to damage/destroy the seal. If it leaks, it's shot and needs replacing! I can't tell for sure, but it looks like you may have a shaft seal and not a sealed bearing. Which ever, it needs replacing.

Also, when you reassemble, don't use grease on the shaft, use an anti-seize compound as this will prevent galvanic corrosion... a process in which 2 dissimilar metals create an electric charge and literally weld the 2 metals together... Bob

Would brake anti seize do?

 

[DatButch]

I was kinda thinking of replacing my plastic impeller. It works ok , was just thinking of up grading to steal and the enclosed chain . I’m pretty sure I could build some type of a puller to aid with removing the impeller. But sure seems like a lot of effort to fix something that isn’t broken.

To be honest, it would have taken 15 minutes had I known what I do now!

 

[rwmeyer]

Not exactly sure what "brake anti-seize" is, but take a look at the label and it should state "prevents galvanic corrosion." Bob

 

[Firemark]

Once I stumbled across the issue of, “Oxidation Weld”, I read everything under the sun about it here on GTT. The rig and everything else I purchased in spring/16. This past spring in March, I started the snow blower maintanemce which I always do when the MMM cleaning, painting, oil change, lube etc is complete and front blower comes off. My blower was used for 4 seasons. I store it in my garage which is attached and not heated but is warmer than the outside due to its attachment and being part of the house. I was expecting the impeller upgrade to be a total PITA. Surprisingly, I was able to use a heavy hammer and beat the entire plastic impeller along the shaft and off. There was definitely oxidation on both shaft and impeller. Perhaps being kept in the garage everyday resulted in less, “Oxidation Weld”. I got lucky and A hammer took it off after almost 5 years. I cleaned the shaft very well with very fine sand paper, emery, scotch pad. Used a couple of things to get it nice and clean without creating any slop with the new impeller. First thing I did next was put a zerk on the impeller close to the middle so grease would get both of the impeller internal bushings. The bore hole in the steel impeller has a bushing built in on each side of the bore with the center being wider and not contacting the shaft. I then put anti sieze on the shaft and proceeded to mount steel impeller on shaft and spin it to get the anti sieze grease everywhere possible to help.

After zerk install, I predrilled three holes in the end of each impeller fin so I could bolt on rubber, in my case strips of TSC bailer belt to bring edge of impeller closer to impeller/blower shroud walls and get what many have called super charging the blower. In simple terms more and increased snow lift. I wanted to add that I had pre drilled every thing including small stainless three hole bars so my bailer belt flaps are between the ends of impeller fins and a small metal bar so they could be mounted firmly. I wanted to add that I spun the impeller to find the spot where bare steel impeller was closest to the yellow painted steel shroud. I than held flaps on impeller marked holes made hole in rubber and installed in place. All three are a touch too tight but I did that so they would quickly,”wear“ in place. Also wanted to add that the blower design itself does not center the impeller shaft in a place that keeps the impeller fins equidistant from the walls. Hence limiting how much one can extend the fins to meet the walls for increased lift. With all said, I’m looking forward to seeing how this works out. This pic is also not mine but gives you an idea what I did.

Next, I got rid of the gear chain drive set up and installed the enclosed case replacement. Note, check and add proper oil. Mine came with no oil. The following picture is to show the new oil bath, chain, gear case. Its someone else’s blower pic might be a 47 blower but this is the case I installed. This will solve chain adjustment and lube maintanence and should help quit down blower noise.

While I had everything apart, I also cleaned, lubed, changed oil and touched any paint where needed. I also added the second drift bar and painted the tips of both with John Deere yellow. Also added better shoes to blower. Rearblade has strip of horse stall mat between cutting edge and moldboard.

Since this pic, tires have been changed to Versa turfs too. Hope this info is helpful. Everything I did, I learned here from the guys on GTT. It’s a bit early for a snow blower post but after reading the thread, I felt like posting.

 

[DatButch]

For anyone following this thread, couple more infos. The stock seal that I broke with heat (seal where the shaft enters the auger gearbox) is part metal, part rubber. The new one JD sold me is plastic and rubber. The metal one was rusted in, pretty hard to remove but know that there is plenty of space to hammer it in a bit to unfreeze it.
Then you can easily screw a metal screw on each side and gently tap up. I used vise grips attached to the screws to have a place to tap. There are tools to do this but everything was closed so…

 

[DatButch]

Another updated, all the knocking around actually made the shaft loose in the gearbox. The culprit is a circlip or snap ring that broke, just in the part of the gearbox protected with the above mentioned seal. So I guess I got lucky the seal broke, I would have never noticed it until too late.