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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 485 JD backhoe mounted on a 3520 JD tractor. Since day one the primary boom moves up and down as well as left and right just WAY TOO FAST. I put up with it for a long time assuming operator error but as time passes I'm growing tired of looking like a hurky jerky operator. The other controls for the secondary boom and dig bucket work as expected and can be feathered. Any thoughts or ideas on how to calm this thing down are very much appreciated.
 

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Slow the engine down, that will drop the GPM to the control valves without causing a large pressure drop.
 
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I think it’s just the way the cylinders are setup on the JD backhoes. I have the same issue on my 375a. A number of times I’ve slammed the boom back into the fully retracted position when actuating that cylinder. Heck of a crash when you do that. Left and right can be fairly jerky as well. It’s gotten better with time, but it’s still a nuisance.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Slow the engine down, that will drop the GPM to the control valves without causing a large pressure drop.
Thanks, that is the first thing I do but it's till seems to fast and jerky. Also, not a lot of dig power at idle speed. I've operated a Cat as well as a Case backhoe and it's very easy to feather the controls on those units. This one just seems impossible to feather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think it’s just the way the cylinders are setup on the JD backhoes. I have the same issue on my 375a. A number of times I’ve slammed the boom back into the fully retracted position when actuating that cylinder. Heck of a crash when you do that. Left and right can be fairly jerky as well. It’s gotten better with time, but it’s still a nuisance.

Rick
Exactly! when that boom comes slamming home it's downright scary! Not to mention not good for the tractor and hoe. I'm not familiar with the spool valves but I see articles indicating they can be adjust for pressure. I'm wondering if they can also be adjusted for flow? Or perhaps the are one in the same in this situation?? I don't want to give up power, just slow it down and make it more controllable.
 

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I wonder if you cold put an Orifice Disk in one of the hoses to the cylinders? My Snow Blower Chute Rotation Cylinder Hoses have a flat disk with an Orifice installed in one of the hoses to slow the rotation down as blowing snow is normally done at close to or at full throttle. I have thought about filling and re-drilling the hole to a smaller size as the chute rotates a lot faster than I like and it did it when it was on my 445 and now on the 1026R. Just haven't got around to it yet, been living with the irritation for 25 years so my issue is not as bad as yours.
 

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I've operated 310s and 580s. When I first got my 1025R/260B, I was erratic. But with a conscious effort and some experience with the machine, I've learned to be a lot smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've operated 310s and 580s. When I first got my 1025R/260B, I was erratic. But with a conscious effort and some experience with the machine, I've learned to be a lot smoother.
Thanks Jim, I do appreciate the significance of experience and patience. I’ve put up with this situation well over 10 years. I’m retired now and have time to get to the bottom of it. Feathering a valve shouldn’t be this difficult.
I wonder if you cold put an Orifice Disk in one of the hoses to the cylinders? My Snow Blower Chute Rotation Cylinder Hoses have a flat disk with an Orifice installed in one of the hoses to slow the rotation down as blowing snow is normally done at close to or at full throttle. I have thought about filling and re-drilling the hole to a smaller size as the chute rotates a lot faster than I like and it did it when it was on my 445 and now on the 1026R. Just haven't got around to it yet, been living with the irritation for 25 years so my issue is not as bad as yours.
Something to restrict the office I’m sure would work but would require some experimentation. I’m wondering if there isn’t maybe a better set of valves available that come on and off easier but still allow full flow when wanted. A proportional valve versus what seems to be and on/off valve??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Jim, I do appreciate the significance of experience and patience. I’ve put up with this situation well over 10 years. I’m retired now and have time to get to the bottom of it. Feathering a valve shouldn’t be this difficult.

Something to restrict the office I’m sure would work but would require some experimentation. I’m wondering if there isn’t maybe a better set of valves available that come on and off easier but still allow full flow when wanted. A proportional valve versus what seems to be and on/off valve??
Found this in the parts section of this website. Check #9. I wonder if I'm perhaps missing the stock hydraulic restrictors?
 

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Thanks Jim, I do appreciate the significance of experience and patience. I’ve put up with this situation well over 10 years. I’m retired now and have time to get to the bottom of it. Feathering a valve shouldn’t be this difficult.

Something to restrict the office I’m sure would work but would require some experimentation. I’m wondering if there isn’t maybe a better set of valves available that come on and off easier but still allow full flow when wanted. A proportional valve versus what seems to be and on/off valve??
they have many adjustable flow control valves that you can plumb in line right at the cylinder. I prefer the ones that have a check valve in them and only restrict one direction. Then you arrange them to where you are restricting the flow out of the cylinders, and you can adjust them individually and make them behave however you want. I like to put one on each cylinder port, then you can adjust the retract and the extend speed of a cylinder separately. Otherwise there is no way around the fact that a cylinder retracts at a faster rate than it extended.
You could probably find a better quality valve, But likely it would be quite a bit of research, expense, work and experimentation to get the valve mounted and working.
If you like that sort of thing, I bet it would be fun.
If you really want to stay busy for awhile, rig up electric proportional control. Parker has some nice stuff out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
they have many adjustable flow control valves that you can plumb in line right at the cylinder. I prefer the ones that have a check valve in them and only restrict one direction. Then you arrange them to where you are restricting the flow out of the cylinders, and you can adjust them individually and make them behave however you want. I like to put one on each cylinder port, then you can adjust the retract and the extend speed of a cylinder separately. Otherwise there is no way around the fact that a cylinder retracts at a faster rate than it extended.
You could probably find a better quality valve, But likely it would be quite a bit of research, expense, work and experimentation to get the valve mounted and working.
If you like that sort of thing, I bet it would be fun.
If you really want to stay busy for awhile, rig up electric proportional control. Parker has some nice stuff out there.
Thanks, I found this inexpensive valve online that looks like it would do the job! I bet my local hydraulic store would even have them on the shelf. I knew there would be an easy answer, I just needed to bounce my thoughts off of other folks with similar experiences. Thanks Again!!!!
 

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I don't understand? Is bolt someones name? What is Kenny?
Thanks!
Rob - go to the vendor section of this forum. click on Ken's bolt on hooks. Kenny is also a administrator of this forum
 

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I have a 485 JD backhoe mounted on a 3520 JD tractor. Since day one the primary boom moves up and down as well as left and right just WAY TOO FAST. I put up with it for a long time assuming operator error but as time passes I'm growing tired of looking like a hurky jerky operator. The other controls for the secondary boom and dig bucket work as expected and can be feathered. Any thoughts or ideas on how to calm this thing down are very much appreciated.
I have a 485 backhoe mounted to my 3320 so for all intents and purposes, the same as your rig. I run @ ~1700-1800 Max and all operations are smooth and steady. I will say the main boom reach is the most responsive. When moving it back to the transport position I also usually curl my bucket to slow it down. This prevents it from slamming into the stops.

BTW, I also replaced all of the backhoe hydraulic control valve heim joints with a higher quality, precision machined replacement sourced from McMaster Carr. These fully machined parts replaced the original pressed steel rod ends that were getting loose and sloppy. Definite improvement which allows one to feather the controls with much more finesse.

McMaster Carr rod ends
 

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Great thread here, I too find the boom controls hard to smooth out, I really like the idea of flow control in and out, thanks @arlen for the advice there. I considered the orifices, but manual flow control would be much easier to adjust.
@Superglidesport I too curl the bucket when I re-stow the boom, it's a truly awful thing when it slams home.
 

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I have the same issue on my 375a.
I do as well.

When I first got my 1025R/260B, I was erratic. But with a conscious effort and some experience with the machine, I've learned to be a lot smoother.
It takes a lot of attention to keep it smooth. One little slip and off she goes.

Like others have said, adding a second movement of the dipper or bucket does make the main boom or swing smoother. It takes a bit to get that touch as well.

If I don't time the bucket curl right, when the curl ends here comes the main boom.

I try and extend or retract the dipper when swinging the hoe. I am pretty good at getting that one to work.

The left stick functions sure seem faster than the right. I always figured it was because the left spool was getting the fluid first.

For the most part I just write it off to being an inexperienced novice bonehead. Finesse is not a word that gets used very often in reference to me.
 

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For the most part I just write it off to being an inexperienced novice bonehead.
With the 46 I blame John Deere. :LOL: The 7 wasn't like this.
 

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I do as well.



It takes a lot of attention to keep it smooth. One little slip and off she goes.

Like others have said, adding a second movement of the dipper or bucket does make the main boom or swing smoother. It takes a bit to get that touch as well.

If I don't time the bucket curl right, when the curl ends here comes the main boom.

I try and extend or retract the dipper when swinging the hoe. I am pretty good at getting that one to work.

The left stick functions sure seem faster than the right. I always figured it was because the left spool was getting the fluid first.

For the most part I just write it off to being an inexperienced novice bonehead. Finesse is not a word that gets used very often in reference to me.
It's kind of like learning to play a musical instrument. At first you can't put 2 notes together, then gradually you start making music.
These smaller backhoes are quick compared to large machines. When I first ran my 1025/260, I thought it was erratic compared to a JD 310/410 or Case 580 construction backhoes. I just kept the RPMs lower and after a while it smoothed out to where I was happy with operating the 260B.
Hang in there - with some more experience you'll be making music ;)😊
 
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