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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. I have an '01 4x2 that I bought used a couple of months ago. Since I bought it, it has been tricky to get into forward. It would usually go in just fine, but occasionally would not go all the way into gear, almost like trying to shift a manual transmission car without pushing the clutch all the way down. When you applied throttle, the shift lever would jump up and you could hear gears grinding. For a while, that was a rare occurrence. I checked all the linkages, etc. Over the last week or so, the problem has gotten a bit worse and I'd like to fix it. Is this a common problem, perhaps with a relatively easy fix that someone could point me to? :laugh: That's rarely my luck. Is there a specific adjustment procedure for the shift linkage? I'd like to make sure I have that right, just to eliminate it as a potential issue.

Thanks!
 

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Being that its new to you, do you know when the last trans fluid change was? Is the fluid level correct?

My XUV can be the same way if you do not put it all the way in gear! It can also be a pain to **** around between gears. Definitely not a smooth gear box.
 

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When I got my 4x2 it would grind and go into gear really hard. The owner I got it from said to just jam into gear. Talked to my JD dealer about it. he told me the idle has to be as low as you can get w/o it stalling. Turned it down quite a bit, maybe around 400 to 500 rpms. Mine is a little cold blooded, when the temp goes down it likes to stall. But it goes into gear a lot easier, and w/o grinding. I'm thinking a carb rebuild is in the future for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Fluid level was correct, not sure when the last fluid change was. I believe it was relatively recent, as the previous owner said he had just done some transmission work on it. Since I bought it, I've found several things that needed to be finished up from their transmission job, lots of loose bolts and the brake linkage on one side was missing some parts. Got all that right now, but I don't know how much faith to put in the work they did inside the transmission.

In any case, I disconnected the shift linkage from the transmission and found that the transmission will not go completely into forward gear. There's a shift collar and some detents inside that are able to cause this issue. I pulled the transmission out this morning, it's draining right now. Planning to open it up here in a bit and see what's going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, the transmission is in pieces. Once I got inside, I found the teeth on one side of the shift collar are noticeably worn, as is the shift block that rides on the shift collar and connects it to the linkage that comes down through the top of the case. I plan to order parts with the dealer on Monday.

And now, for some pictures. :) I didn't get any of the removal, but it's fairly simple. Shift and brake linkage, differential lock cable, neutral safety switch wires, the belt, the bracket to the engine, and four mounting bolts.

Transmission out.



Transmission.



Transmission open.



Input shaft with shift collar.



Input shaft, disassembled. You can see the two detent balls and the spring in this one. They go underneath the shift collar.



Damaged teeth on collar. Might be tough to see, but the teeth are worn down.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
I started on the Gator this afternoon. As you can see, the old shift collar was very worn.



That shift collar slides onto the input shaft. There is a hole drilled completely through the shaft that is under the collar when the collar is installed. That hole is where the two detent balls and the spring go.



Reassembled. I replaced the detent balls and spring as well. The old ones felt okay, but I figured if I was going that far into it, it was worth spending the extra $4.00 to know it was all new.



That's the input shaft assembly. If you look at the shift collar, there is a groove on the left side. That's where the shift block rides. The block is what pushes the shift collar into position. As you can see, the old one was worn significantly.



I worked on it for about an hour tonight, after I wrapped up some other projects. I could've finished, but the NHL All Stars skills competition was about to start. :thumbup1gif: In addition to reassembling the input shaft, I replaced the seal in the case where the shaft comes through and the large drive pulley attaches. I got the shaft assembly installed with the drive chain. All I need to do to finish up is put the two case halves together and put it back in. Before I drop it back in I'd like to change the engine oil. It's a lot easier to get to the drain plug with the transmission out. :laugh:

Right now, it looks like this.

 

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Good post. Thanks for the update! :thumbup1gif:
 

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make sure that is as clean as you can get it before you put it back together.... i would suggest doing a tranny fluid change in about 15 or so hours... when you do it run the gator around for a bout 15 or 20 minutes so the fluid is warm and runnier (if thats a word)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I am happy to report that the Gator is reassembled and shifts like a new one. :thumbup1gif: Finished it up this afternoon.

Great pics, might have to do this to mine soon. Seems to be pretty straight forward replacement. Hope it corrects the problem for you!!
As far as transmission jobs go, it's pretty simple. Before you go that far though, be sure that the problem isn't in the linkage. I disconnected the shift linkage from the arm on the top of the transmission and it wouldn't go into gear even if I shifted it directly with the arm.

It isn't a bad job, if you're somewhat mechanically inclined or just willing to take it apart and see what happens. Don't need much in the way of special tools, either. The only things I used that everyone may not already have were a pair of snap ring pliers, a swivel adaptor for a socket, and a rubber mallet. You can pick all that up for just a few bucks. A long extension (or several short ones) is great to have too, for adjusting the brakes and removing the front, driver's side transmission mount bolt. It's under the muffler, and the easiest way I found to get to it was after the two axle housings had been removed, use a long extension with the swivel adapter and a socket to reach through the axle housing hole on the driver's side and get to it.

The trickiest part of the actual disassembly was removing and reinstalling the complete input shaft into the case. The chain that it drives does not have an easily removed master link, so it has to go on and off as a solid loop. I wound up sliding the input shaft and the middle shaft (where the other sprocket is) out enough to have some slack in the chain. Putting it back together was the worst part, because in addition to that you have to slide the shift collar block into place and hold it until the input shaft is far enough into the case for it to catch on the lever that comes down through the case.

All in all, it really isn't terribly difficult. If a person had the parts on hand, the entire job (removal, repair, reinstallation) could probably be done in 4-6 hours or a bit less.

make sure that is as clean as you can get it before you put it back together.... i would suggest doing a tranny fluid change in about 15 or so hours... when you do it run the gator around for a bout 15 or 20 minutes so the fluid is warm and runnier (if thats a word)
Yep, cleaned everything out really well. Planning to do a fluid change after it gets a few hours on it, just to be sure.
 

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2001 4x2 Gator shifting

Hey all. I have an '01 4x2 that I bought used a couple of months ago. Since I bought it, it has been tricky to get into forward. It would usually go in just fine, but occasionally would not go all the way into gear, almost like trying to shift a manual transmission car without pushing the clutch all the way down. When you applied throttle, the shift lever would jump up and you could hear gears grinding. For a while, that was a rare occurrence. I checked all the linkages, etc. Over the last week or so, the problem has gotten a bit worse and I'd like to fix it. Is this a common problem, perhaps with a relatively easy fix that someone could point me to? :laugh: That's rarely my luck. Is there a specific adjustment procedure for the shift linkage? I'd like to make sure I have that right, just to eliminate it as a potential issue.

Thanks!
I too have a 2001 JD 4x2 Gator. Since I have owned it, it's had a fussy shift. My JD mechanic says that's how they shift and just deal with it. I've owned it over five years and it does me fine. The two wheel lock lever can really be hard to engage and disengage. Recently, I was having mystery back firing, smoke and no power problems. I did the rebuild kit by on dealer, it didn't solve the mystery problem. Another dealer replaced the old carb with new. It REALLY ran bad then. Come to find out, the mechanic didn't put in the new air restrictor. After they corrected their mistake, it now runs good without anymore mystery problem. I read a blog about putting in larger carb jets and dumping the air restrictor. The blogger reports the bigger jets "wake up" the Gator engine with faster response and faster top end. All things considered, I like my older style Gator. The new stuff has gotten so expensive, a guy is better off buying a used Jeep IMO. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Something occurred to me that I want to mention for anyone considering doing this repair. I mentioned special tools a few posts back, but I accidentally left one thing out.



If you look on the right hand side of the input shaft, you will see a small roller bearing. That bearing supports the end of the shaft in the opposite side of the case, and was pressed on. You will need a hydraulic shop press, or a small puller to remove it. I used a small battery terminal puller to remove it, because the jaws of the puller are thinner that the average two or three jaw puller. However you go about removing it, be careful to make sure the puller or press dies are making contact on the inner race of the bearing, and not on the outer race or balls. Don't want to accidentally damage the bearing.

It can be reinstalled with a press, or if you don't have access to one you can probably tap it back down on there with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer. While it is a press fit, it's not an incredibly tight press fit. Use a small piece of pipe or a socket to apply force to the inner race of the bearing, and just be careful to get it on there straight.
 

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I appreciate this thread. I've never been inside something like this and your post gives me a little more confidence to do so...if ever needed. At least now I know if I open it up... little springs and balls wont be jumping out everywhere.
 

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Question

Thanks first for the thread and the PICS!!!! Do you think you should have replaced the other gear on the imput shaft. If the shift collar was chewed up was the splines on the bevel gear side not eaten up? I am about to tear into mine and just wondering what your thought were on the other end of the input shaft. In your pic it looked like they were wore too but, you have done it and I am just armchairnig it till I tear into it. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks first for the thread and the PICS!!!! Do you think you should have replaced the other gear on the imput shaft. If the shift collar was chewed up was the splines on the bevel gear side not eaten up? I am about to tear into mine and just wondering what your thought were on the other end of the input shaft. In your pic it looked like they were wore too but, you have done it and I am just armchairnig it till I tear into it. Thanks
The splines on the shaft were not damaged. I agree, the pictures can make it look like they are. I believe the teeth you're referring to are actually part of the base shaft assembly, they're machined into it and the only way to replace them would be to replace the entire shaft. I think the collar may be made of a softer metal. I would tear it down first, and replace any parts that might be worn. While I only had the shift collar and block damaged, you might have wear on some other stuff.

If you tear into it, holler with any questions or experiences. I'll do all I can to help. :)
 

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Parts Diagram!!

Hey guys I removed my tranny today and found the manufacturer name an modle number. Seems my transmission and the one pictured is a KT35 EO894 made for Deere by Kanzaki Tuff Torque. A Google search lead me to their site and there is a parts diagram and a handy online parts order cart. Tommorrow I will check at my JD dealer for pricing and may end up buying online from the manufacturer. Anyway I thought the next guy might love to have a parts breakdown so I will post a link. Their site is not the best so if I dont get you on the right page you can poke around and find it https://www.tufftorqservices.com/EnvEElogin/html/login.html
 

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Transmission Issues

My 2002 Gator has the KT35 transmission as well. The transmission jumps out of gear when I have a load on,(say 200 lbs.) going up a small incline. It re-engages itself immediately, but this problem continues until I get on a flat, level surface. Anybody else have this issue?
Having read through the thread, I decided to pull the transmission. You are right, it is not a difficult thing to do. But I forgot to pull the belt pulley off before dismantling the transmission, so will need an impact wrench to do it now. I'm hoping to find worn gears, but the Gator has less than 1000 hours on it, and I know they last much longer than that. Would appreciate any info on this 'jumping' issue.
Thanks for the posted pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Jerry, does it go back into gear by itself or do you have to shift it? Does the shift lever move when this happens?

If it goes back "into gear" by itself, it doesn't sound like a gear problem as much as it sounds like a belt/ clutch problem.
 
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