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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have any recommendations for this hydraulic cylinder?

Size, length, etc.

I noticed on JD parts that the clevis, on the bottom, looks like
it has a slot. similar to the selectable clevis on the manual link.

For the top link, I found the Surplus Center 9-7682-08.
It has arrived and it looks good, haven't hooked it up yet though.

Thanks.
 

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I am not at home, but for the top link you want the 16 to 28 if memory serves me right.
The longer one that i have is not short enough and too long. It worked great on my 3720 but not so great on the 4520.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm talking about the side link.

I think I'm just going to measure the mechanical one and then get
a 2 1/2 cylinder that has nearly the same range.

I'm a little weak on hydraulics. On a 2 1/2 cylinder,
is this the outside diameter of the cylinder itself?

Thanks.

picture test
tilt2.JPG

I'm trying to post my first picture here...

I was wondering if this float/solid function could be
kept. I guess it doesn't matter too much. I'm
not sure how to use it anyway.

And I'm working on two projects at once, the top and tilt,
and a grapple bucket that requires installing the third
function hydraulics. I ordered the BW kit and it arrived
missing a hard line. Thanks all.
 

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Stone, either of the company's I listed above will custom make a SL for you.
 

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I'm talking about the side link.

I think I'm just going to measure the mechanical one and then get
a 2 1/2 cylinder that has nearly the same range.

I'm a little weak on hydraulics. On a 2 1/2 cylinder,
is this the outside diameter of the cylinder itself?

Thanks.

picture test
View attachment 7724

I'm trying to post my first picture here...

I was wondering if this float/solid function could be
kept. I guess it doesn't matter too much. I'm
not sure how to use it anyway.

And I'm working on two projects at once, the top and tilt,
and a grapple bucket that requires installing the third
function hydraulics. I ordered the BW kit and it arrived
missing a hard line. Thanks all.
Cylinder size (diameter) refers to I.D.

The float function on your lift link is changed by turning the pin 90 degrees. It's in the "fixed" position as shown in your picture. Turn the pin 90 degrees and the lower link will be able to float the length of the slot, minus pin diameter.

Tilt cylinder builders should be able to retain this feature, be sure to request it.
 

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Hi,

I have a top link from HayTools (formerly CCM I think) and a Side Link from Fit-Rite. Both are very nice, and offered great service. CCM knew exactly what to send. Brian at fit-rite was very helpful and precise in the measurements needed to get it right the first time. Brian can arrange to keep, or not keep, the float function. 3pt hitches float anyway, so it's a bit redundant.

My only criticisms are that I wish there was a check-valve (??DPOCV??) on the side link as it drifts down fairly quickly. The top link from CCM has one, and it doesn't go anywhwere, ever. The top link that I have on could be an inch or 2 shorter, as I find that with the blade or rake on the back there is far to much 'toe-forward' position, but not enough 'toe-back' position.

If you search 'jgrreed' and 'top link' on TBN, you'll find all kinds of chatter about this from when I got mine back in '08.

-Jer.
 

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Hi,

I have a top link from HayTools (formerly CCM I think) and a Side Link from Fit-Rite. Both are very nice, and offered great service. CCM knew exactly what to send. Brian at fit-rite was very helpful and precise in the measurements needed to get it right the first time. Brian can arrange to keep, or not keep, the float function. 3pt hitches float anyway, so it's a bit redundant.

My only criticisms are that I wish there was a check-valve (??DPOCV??) on the side link as it drifts down fairly quickly. The top link from CCM has one, and it doesn't go anywhwere, ever. The top link that I have on could be an inch or 2 shorter, as I find that with the blade or rake on the back there is far to much 'toe-forward' position, but not enough 'toe-back' position.

If you search 'jgrreed' and 'top link' on TBN, you'll find all kinds of chatter about this from when I got mine back in '08.

-Jer.
Way late to the game here, but I hope that you see this. Disconnect the QDs and see if the cylinder still drifts down. If it does, then I need to get you a replacement side link. If it does not drift down, then you need to take a look at your control valve. As far as the floating slot in the clevis, that is so that you can have side to side floating, not just up-down motion of the 3pt hitch. This is a great option to have when finish grading if you do not have the float function with the control valve which is the best option IMO. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Here's the one I made for my 4120, it started out as a 3" bore x 8" stroke cross pin cylinder. I cut the barrel down to 5" stroke, removed the cross tube and welded a swivel ball end on. I made the clevis end from 1/2" plate steel, it's slotted and selectable fixed/float just like the original. I was going to thread the rod to accept the original forged clevis but it's metric and I can't cut metric threads on my lathe. I machined two flats on the rod to get the correct inside spacing for the clevis. I made the top cylinder too, that one was a little easier, just cut the cross tubes off and weld the ball ends on.

IMAG0253.jpg

IMAG0254.jpg

IMAG0255.jpg
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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Here's the one I made for my 4120, it started out as a 3" bore x 8" stroke cross pin cylinder. I cut the barrel down to 5" stroke, removed the cross tube and welded a swivel ball end on. I made the clevis end from 1/2" plate steel, it's slotted and selectable fixed/float just like the original. I was going to thread the rod to accept the original forged clevis but it's metric and I can't cut metric threads on my lathe. I machined two flats on the rod to get the correct inside spacing for the clevis. I made the top cylinder too, that one was a little easier, just cut the cross tubes off and weld the ball ends on.
You did a real nice job. :thumbup1gif: I think that most people wouldn't be able to re-thread the tube after it was cut down to shorten the stroke though. When I was asked to build a side link using the JD OEM clevis, I found that the threads were British. I wished that they were metric. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Thanks MtnView. I realize most people aren't going to be able to do this at home, but I though I'd post the pics to show that it can be done. I got the cylinders from Surplus Center for $50 each. I ordered 2.5" cylinders and they sent me 3" cylinders. They seemed like good quality cylinders (USA made) so I decided to just use them instead of trying to send them back. I actually didn't re-thread the barrel, I parted the back end cap off and re-welded it. Had to move the work port too obviously. I considered re-threading the gland end, but welding seemed easier. The clevis threads on the 4120 measured approximately M27x3.0 but they could be British, I didn't spend much time on them after I determined they are not standard. I think it's better that I made a new clevis anyway, now if I break the cylinder or blow a seal I can just throw the original link back on without having to swap the clevis over, no tools needed.
 
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