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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Keep my tractor out at the farm my son lives on and he called to tell me the 5045E was acting strange. Said that after he puts it in gear it doesn't always get up to speed as fast as it should. To me, it sounds like the clutch might be slipping. He tells me there is NO free play in the pedal at all. I have read that there should be 20 or 25 mm. Could this be the problem or do you think the clutch may need replaced or could it be something else? Thanks for any tips. We have somewhere close to 300 hours on the 2014 Tractor.
 

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Yes clutch operating pedal needs to be adjusted so pressure plate can exert maximum pressure on traction clutch disk. After giving pedal free travel if clutch still slips clutch plate will require replacement which will require splitting tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes clutch operating pedal needs to be adjusted so pressure plate can exert maximum pressure on traction clutch disk. After giving pedal free travel if clutch still slips clutch plate will require replacement which will require splitting tractor.
That sounds good and bad. Just so I am understanding though, the fact that the pedal has NO free play in it, could be causing this?
 

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Yes no clutch pedal free travel is created as clutch disk wears causing pressure plate disk to move a little closer to flywheel causing operating finger to get closer to throwout brg. When PP fingers apply sufficient pressure against throwout brg this causes PP to not apply correct pressure on traction clutch plate allowing plate to slip easier creating a ""vicious circle""
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks! Discovered a leak in my fuel line too. It is looking old and cracked but the tractor only has about 300 hours and is a 2014. Guess they don't make them like they used to. Decided to go ahead and have the dealer pick it up as it needed service work anyway. We will see what they say about the clutch issue. Much appreciate your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tx Jim, you were sure right!! Just got a call from the dealer and told me they adjusted the clutch to about 3/4 inch play and all is good! That was music to my ears! It was time for service work on all the filters etc. anyway so glad I took it in and I don't have to mess with it. Thanks, again!!
 
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Tx Jim, you were sure right!! Just got a call from the dealer and told me they adjusted the clutch to about 3/4 inch play and all is good! That was music to my ears! It was time for service work on all the filters etc. anyway so glad I took it in and I don't have to mess with it. Thanks, again!!
Did they tell you why the clutch would need adjusting after only 300 hours of use? Perhaps I can enlighten you.
RUST! The clutch discs on these tractors are made of a metallic / ceramic material. (This was relayed to me by my dealer) When the tractor sits idle for long periods of time rust builds up between the clutch disc and the flywheel and between the clutch disc and the pressure plate. When you start and run the tractor the rust acts as an abrasive and wears on the clutch disc as well as the faces of the flywheel and the pressure plate. As these parts wear the free play in the clutch becomes less and less.
There is a help for this. I explained it in a thread I started some time ago about the problem I encountered with my 2012 5065E not long after it was new.
In that thread I recommended if you are going to leave one of these tractors idle for any length of time you should prop the clutch pedal down. This will allow air to circulate within the clutch housing and reduce or eliminate the rusting condition.
My clutch wouldn't disengage at all after the first winter my 5065E sat in my pole barn. Under 70 hours of use. The disc was rusted solidly to the flywheel. I attempted to free it but to no avail. I finally took the tractor to my dealer for diagnosis and repair which was within the warranty period. Luckily my dealer was only 2 1/2 miles away at that time and I was able to drive my tractor there.
My dealer split the tractor and replaced the clutch pressure plate and disc and cleaned the flywheel. At that time they recommended I prop the clutch pedal down, which I have done ever since using a 1" square stick sharpened to a point I can jam between the fender and the clutch pedal.
My 5065E sits nearly all winter long as I have no need for it because I have my snowblower mounted on my 5225 cab tractor. I have pulled the 5065E out of the barn a couple times just to start it on a nice day and warm it and circulate some fluids. The clutch has worked just fine.
I have a friend who bought a 5065E shortly after I bought mine in 2012. He uses his all winter long to keep his driveway cleared of snow and uses the tractor in the summer working in his wood lot. He has never had to even adjust his clutch free play. The last time I looked he had a little over 1700 hours on the meter.
Lynn
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks, Letmgrow! Interesting. Mine might set for a month or so at the most. Use it during the winter months for snow removal too. It is a 2014 with about 300 hours on it, so you know it does sit some.
 

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Your tractor seems to have premature clutch wear, caused by by the operating technique. Some of the causes are riding your foot the clutch pedal, starting tractor off in to high of a gear. When using the loader shift to range A to move tractor into the product to be loaded. I have 600 hours on my 5045e and never adjusted the clutch, and I use the loader daily. Good luck!
 

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letmgrow
I agree that blocking clutch pedal down if tractor sets idle for extended period of time will help eliminate clutch disk from sticking to flywheel/pressure plate!!

But I see no way that blocking pedal down will help eliminate rust formation in clutch housing that IMHO is caused by moisture.
 

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I used Gates Barricade hose. It comes in high and low pressure ratings. High is for fuel injection at high pressure, you only need low. I had to get larger clamps, the same ID hose had a bigger OD than original hoses.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Your tractor seems to have premature clutch wear, caused by by the operating technique. Some of the causes are riding your foot the clutch pedal, starting tractor off in to high of a gear. When using the loader shift to range A to move tractor into the product to be loaded. I have 600 hours on my 5045e and never adjusted the clutch, and I use the loader daily. Good luck!
Will have to discuss this with my son. He operates the tractor much more than I do. Do you think it would matter if you were letting up on the clutch to fast or is it more when you ride it?
Original JD fuel line hoses are CRAP !!! Buy some Gates diesel-rated hose, and change from the tank to the fuel filter. No use putting crap hose back on !
Probably to late, JD dealer replaced it already. He told me there really wasn't another one available but that he thought the original one had been discontinued.
 

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Will have to discuss this with my son. He operates the tractor much more than I do. Do you think it would matter if you were letting up on the clutch to fast or is it more when you ride it?

Probably to late, JD dealer replaced it already. He told me there really wasn't another one available but that he thought the original one had been discontinued.
The wear comes when you are engaging the clutch. Think about it this way, the flywheel is spinning say 1500 engine rpms, and the clutch disc is stopped. When you start to release clutch pedal, the pressure plate moves the clutch disc into the spinning flywheel. At this point the wear begins because the disc is slipping against the flywheel until you fully release the pedal.
And if you out of adjustment (no free play) it’s never fully released. Then it will slip under load in the field.
I hope this helps.
 

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Slipping the clutch, not letting it out too fast, is what will ruin the clutch. No free play will also cause it to slip.
I used Gates Barricade hose when I replaced my fuel hoses. The dealer is probably only telling you what was available from JD.
 
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