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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am thinking about getting a 5055E for brush hogging and doing hay/ planting food plots etc. i do know quite a bit about the mechanics of the tractor but i wondered if the people who have them like them and if they are worth the money for them??? also thought about a 4005
 

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I selected the way to configure a 5105 in late 2006 and it was assembled in Georgia with a Mexican made engine and Argentina make front axle. At least the tires said made in USA. This one you are asking about is a made in India one isn't it? I would do the build my own route. It seems you get a turbocharger and hydraulic brakes and the price is still the same. You probably get a park in the transmission instead of one locking brake and a tie the brakes together latch. I am real happy without the turbo but it is likely unavoidable now. I do notice the 5055e and basically all the ones in the online brochure I looked at have pto speed at 2400 engine speed where mine is a bit more relaxed at 2300. If you are going to brush hog into steep corners it is kind of frustrating having to twist the body to hold the differential lock with a hand while holding the brakes with a foot. I am happy with a dry clutch. I wish I had ordered the second hydraulic remote it was $500 with the tractor and $1000 as an afterthought even the first one was $500 which I got. A few years earlier even the draft control was an option. The way the lift arms can be pinned or let float a couple of inches (at the ball) each vertically is wonderful. I specked one out for you. I didn't intentionally put in the joystick and you might like different tires. Make sure the salesman commits to setting the tire width to whatever you want. The formatting might collapse.
5055E Utility Tractor
Code Description Qty List Price
1731LV 5055E Utility Tractor $23,867.00

Options
Required Items:

0200 North America 1 In Base Price

0402 English Operators Manual and Decal Kit 1 In Base Price

1240 4 Wheel Drive

Limited Slip MFWD Axle.
Anti-Wrapping Guards for MFWD Drive Shaft.
Includes 9F/3R SyncShuttle - Synchronized Shuttle and Speed Shifts.
Code 3520 is mandatory. 1 In Base Price

3520 Dual Mid Valves with Joystick Control

Requires Code 1240. 1 $1,049.00



5037 16.9-24 In. 6PR R4 Bias

Code 1240 requires Code 6120. 1 ($42.00)

6120 12.5/80-18 In. 10PR I3(R4 Type) Bias 1 $174.00

Optional Items:

LV150155 Engine Coolant Heater Kit (3 Cyl.) 1 $82.00

LVB25110 Heavy Duty Air Intake Pre-Heater

925 CCA battery recommended for optimum performance. 1 $109.00

LVB25771 Second Rear SCV with Detented Float and Lever Control

Compatible with 5E Series Tractors and 5103-5403 models after S/N PY5103U013641, PY5203U005570, PY5303U007753, PY5403U000735. 1 $667.00

LVB25547 Rear Work Light (1 Light) 1 $57.00


Configuration Total: $25,963.00

I will just add that I suggest a flail mower instead of a rotary mower. Everyone calls my flail mower a brush hog but it follows the ground wonderfully, collects stray barbed wire instead of flinging it. Maybe in addition to to the standard rotary type as they probably are faster and can be set a bit lower in real heavy grass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks Frank.... the salesman is my coworker actually, i am a mechanic at the local dealership... so i know about all the options, i really dont like all the fancy stuff on the 3x20, and the 4x20 for doing an ag tractors work but i do like the 4005 but i also think the 5055e is a good sized machine for doing farm chores
 

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If they are like our 5203, you will need some significan weight up front and I would budget some iron for the rear also. We have no issue with our tractor, accept for the front tires lifting and lack of traction. Both could be solved with weight. I am just not ready to pay $1,000 for the iron I want. I think our tractor was $14,900 out the door.
 

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Can you let the lift links float and is there draft on that 4005? The front tires on the 5000 series are significantly bigger hence don't fall into holes as much. What brush hogging means to one person might not be the same as another. It has been quite a while since I put that front hitch on it but I do seem to think it was kind of ineffective pulling with a chain before. With your mowing device on the rear and raised, the diffirential lock engaged you can back up some pretty steep terrain. I can't comment on what food plots and misc involves but for hay, mowing, tedding, bailing, hay wagon, consideing (they way I read the brochure) that model is only available in four wheel drive or mfwd I don't see needing additional weight.
 

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sorry for diging up this old topic.
I am also thinking about buying this tractor, precisely this john deere 5055e. It's 2011 and price is underneath 30k $. To what should i pay attention to when buying an 5055e?
30K$ depends on what you are getting with it. I bought (last summer) a 5045E with 553 loader and a 6ft JD rotary cutter for $29500 no trade 0% 60 months. I opted in four inch wheel spacers, loaded rears set to the widest position , a second pair of rear remotes. the third function plumbing on the loader hooked to one of the rear remotes, a second rear work light, a block heater as well as the air intake pre heater, and telescopic draft links on both sides. I have sense recieving the tractor added a canopy and an after market soft cab and an awsome set of ice chains. So far everything is to my complete satisfaction.

 

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I recently bought the 5065E after being a MF man for many years. I really like this tractor and only hope it holds up as well as my Massey's have.
 

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So many options

I ended up with a couple of tractors 3005 & 790 and love them but I looked long and hard at a 5055D and a 4005. My neighbor got the 4005 after I got the 3005. It is a very capable machine. I have bigger tractor envy. I wish I'd spent the little bit extra and got the 4005. For all around farm tractor use I don't think you'd ever go wrong. Other tractors have alot more bells and whistles but the 4005 is a bare bones hard working tractor. If you want cup holders, tilt steering, cruise control, plush seats etc. By a nice car or one of the luxury tractors. If you want a work tractor the 4005 is hard to beat $ for $. What do you really want to do with your tractor???? It's the same considerations you make in a truck purchase. What are you really going to be doing and what do you really need?
 

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I've had a 5065E for almost a year now. The starter went out the first week or so. When you think of how many hundreds of starters a plant would put out in a day, I feel I just happened to get a bad one. Warranty covered the repair & service trip.

The rear hitch has been the problem. It went out completely, I'm told because of the Factory original design of putting a gasket AND O-rings on the tubes from the pump to the rear control valve. Gasket cuts the O-rings, rear hitch starts sucking air, and rear hitch quits working. Make a short story long, I *****ed enough about this repair that warranty paid the repair and the dealer ate the cost of transportation to and from my farm. This was at about 45 hours.

PS - when the above happens, the rear control valve under the seat gets so hot it melts the plastic fuel tank. Dealer-warranty also paid for a tank.

HOWEVER, the rear hitch still seems to be a weak link. Unit has 58 hours or so on the unit, so it's not under-use or over-use. I say the rear hitch is still weak, as, upon startup -- the front (mid) hydraulics work immediately at start-up. Sometimes, the rear hitch will not raise my MX-8 shredder until several minutes after startup, and by then I've drug it out of the shop, and across the farm leaving two drag marks on the ground. Then all of a sudden, it raises.

A neighbor has a late model 45-50 hp unit that, if he kills the tractor with the implement raised, upon start-up, the rear hitch will not work until he bangs the implement across his driveway or a ditch bank to make an internal valve release. Then the rear hitch works fine.

I expected MORE from John Deere.
 

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Good info Couv. I will be watching my 3-point lift. I had heard some had problems and the dealer fixed them. I still think you may have an issue worth talking to the dealer about. To me a tractor is useless unless the 3-point works flawlessly.
 

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My dealer's CS rep lives across the highway from me. He told me EVERY one of the "E" series tractors that dealership delivered has failed at some point in the rear 3pt valve. Some in warranty, some out of warranty.

By now, JD should know the Serial Number Range, up to the point where they learned to leave off the aforementioned gasket. (If that is the real problem). Any "E" series sold prior to the magic serial number should be disassembled, repaired, and then delivered to the new owner. Seems that would actually save the Factory and the Dealer $$$'s in the long run.

As I said, I am disappointed in JD. Are they just waiting, and hoping your unit will not fail until it is out of warranty ?
 

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My dealer's CS rep lives across the highway from me. He told me EVERY one of the "E" series tractors that dealership delivered has failed at some point in the rear 3pt valve. Some in warranty, some out of warranty.

By now, JD should know the Serial Number Range, up to the point where they learned to leave off the aforementioned gasket. (If that is the real problem). Any "E" series sold prior to the magic serial number should be disassembled, repaired, and then delivered to the new owner. Seems that would actually save the Factory and the Dealer $$$'s in the long run.

As I said, I am disappointed in JD. Are they just waiting, and hoping your unit will not fail until it is out of warranty ?
Hummmm, my neighbor has a 5065 also. He bought it about three years ago. He said he never had a 3-point issue when I asked him. Sounds like the problem started after his serial number.
 
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