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Well Guys and Gals, My 5065E is giving heat troubles again.

Runs fine for about 2 hours. Engine temp never gets above mid-range on the Engine Temp gauge. All the while, you can feel the heat building in the transmission case, floorboards, etc,

After about 2 hours of pulling a 8 ft cutter in heavy brush, it just plain quits running. At that point, the starter is so hot it will not turn over. Even the FEL FRAME is so hot you cant leave your hand on it.


Thought it was fuel oriented, so we changed fuel filters, have bled the diesel system so many times there is no paint on the bleed screws or the nuts on the injector lines.

Radiator is full of water/antifreeze mix.

Tranny/Hydraulic oil is full to the top mark on the tranny dipstick. The last time I had the oil drained, I cleaned the pickup screen near the PTO.

Unit has 950 hours on it. 2012 Year Model.

Any suggestions ?
Couv
 

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Well Guys and Gals, My 5065E is giving heat troubles again.

Runs fine for about 2 hours. Engine temp never gets above mid-range on the Engine Temp gauge. All the while, you can feel the heat building in the transmission case, floorboards, etc,

After about 2 hours of pulling a 8 ft cutter in heavy brush, it just plain quits running. At that point, the starter is so hot it will not turn over. Even the FEL FRAME is so hot you cant leave your hand on it.


Thought it was fuel oriented, so we changed fuel filters, have bled the diesel system so many times there is no paint on the bleed screws or the nuts on the injector lines.

Radiator is full of water/antifreeze mix.

Tranny/Hydraulic oil is full to the top mark on the tranny dipstick. The last time I had the oil drained, I cleaned the pickup screen near the PTO.

Unit has 950 hours on it. 2012 Year Model.

Any suggestions ?
Couv
So it’s the hydraulic system again? I forget what the resolution was on your original problem.
Welcome back
 

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So it’s the hydraulic system again? I forget what the resolution was on your original problem.
Welcome back

Not remembering the back story..

My first thoughts were..thermostat ,plugged or bad muffler(loose internals in muffler?). Have you cleaned the radiator..?? you'd be surprized how clogged the fins can get. Dust , then it gets wet , turns to mud and hardens..a thought..... ,iirc..internal hydro leaks create lots of heat..something I learned here @ gtt.
I'll tag along for the ride...:munch:
 

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When the strainer in the fuel tank on my 5065E got clogged, the water temp gauge would run 3/4 way to hot, not straght up like normal. Were you able to get any tempature readings on the hydraulic system.
 

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Bucket up?

As a new guy who bought a 5055e from a lawn mower shop, I sent my tractor back several times for OH issues. The lawn mower guys didn't know nothin... Somewhere I read that the hydraulics run constantly with the bucket full up, overheating the system. since I stopped bush hogging with the bucket rotated full up, problem has stopped. Could this be your problem? JD assumes us city boys have been tractor guys all our lives. Sorry if I have suggested something everyone else knows.
 

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I'll never understand why tractor operators that have FEL attached especially quick attach/detach models desire to operate tractor with boom raised way above the tractor hood. I find it difficult to believe that boom height has any affect on temp of hyd oil oil. Can anyone please explain how boom height or bucket rotated full up affects hyd oil temp especially if control valve is in neutral position??

Back to couv's tractor a relief valve must be unseating due to faulty valve which is probably 3 pt hitch related which is creating the heat.
 

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Have you blown out the radiator?

We have a 7130 we blow straw (roundbales) with for erosion control. Not only will the radiator screens get clogged up and need to be shaken off we have to take an air hose and blow through the radiator to get all the dust out of the cooling fins.
 

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I'll never understand why tractor operators that have FEL attached especially quick attach/detach models desire to operate tractor with boom raised way above the tractor hood. I find it difficult to believe that boom height has any affect on temp of hyd oil oil. Can anyone please explain how boom height or bucket rotated full up affects hyd oil temp especially if control valve is in neutral position??

Back to couv's tractor a relief valve must be unseating due to faulty valve which is probably 3 pt hitch related which is creating the heat.
A neighbor had a JD 2555 w/245 loader (easy to remove), I would see him mowing with the bucket raised, pulling a 15' batwing mower. I wanted to take the loader off for him :nunu:

The place sold this year and tractor/loader/batwing mower when with the property. The new owner (farm boy) takes the loader off to mow :bigthumb:

I think it's easy to understand, lazy, too lazy to remove the loader.
 

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The only time my 5075E overheats is when the radiator gets loaded up while bush hogging. If you have an 18+ 5E it has a screen in front of the radiator that collects the airborne crap so that when you start to overheat just pull the screen out and brush/shack the crap off and problem solved. IDK if that's your issue or not
 

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Make sure the fan belt is good and snug too. As dry and hot as it is in the South right now daily, possibly every few hours of cleaning will need to be done.. Even the air filter..
I use a leaf blower..

Just a question, is this a shuttle tractor or PR12/12?
 

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Lots of questions but maybe few answers

Some silly questions here but maybe they will provoke some thought by the JD gurus on the board.

What's the temp gauge showing? If it's above normal, how long does it take to get there?

I've had a tractor overheat because of a slight fuel starvation due to the strainer at the bottom of the tank getting gunked up. I would never have figured it out except it ran out of fuel and we had h. . . getting it going again.

Like others have mentioned, a constant load on the hydraulics will rapidly heat the hydro oil. Is it a 3 ph mower? If so, do you use a tail wheel to take some load off the 3 ph or is it all on the lift arms?

Is a FEL and bucket on the machine? If so does dropping either the FEL or just the bucket make any difference?

My first thought is always a plugged radiator and/or screen, bad fan belt or other issue of getting air through the radiator. Have you washed and blown out the radiator and screen?

Is the fan belt glazed or loose?

Any seepage of water around the water pump? Have you tried loosing up the fan belt and spinning the water pump by hand to check for a bad bearing?

Have you checked the thermostat?

Does the tractor overheat when doing anything else except mowing? If not, is the mower too much of a load? Does it spin freely when disconnected or could there be bad bearings or other friction issues with the mower adding to the load?

Are you running at, below or above PTO speed on the tach? Does it change the overheating issue if you run below PTO. (Don't run above, the mower isn't rated to turn the PTO faster than rated speed.)

Sorry about all the questions but your answers might help someone give you a solid solution.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #12
and Couv replies

Very good questions & suggestions.
Radiator is clean, blown with air & water through the fins. Coolant level is full in radiator
Fan belt is tight
Tractor has lost most of the foam shields around the radiator, so I am sure some of the engineered air flow is less, but if the dash gauge is accurate, engine & coolant is not overheating.

I recently visited at the John Deere dealership I used to work at, and the Service Manager looked in to the paperwork and service bulletins. He advised there have been no new bulletins issued for several years on the "E" Series overheating issues.

He did advise that hyd/trans oil maximum temp should be no more than 230 degrees. I will check it with a digital thermometer, but actually hitting oil will be tough.

Has anyone looked to see if any of the plugs in the transmission area that aren't used and are plugged, could have a NAPA gauge type temp gauge screwed in?

Couv
 

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Hey Treefarmer !!

Some silly questions here but maybe they will provoke some thought by the JD gurus on the board.

What's the temp gauge showing? If it's above normal, how long does it take to get there?

I've had a tractor overheat because of a slight fuel starvation due to the strainer at the bottom of the tank getting gunked up. I would never have figured it out except it ran out of fuel and we had h. . . getting it going again.

Like others have mentioned, a constant load on the hydraulics will rapidly heat the hydro oil. Is it a 3 ph mower? If so, do you use a tail wheel to take some load off the 3 ph or is it all on the lift arms?

Is a FEL and bucket on the machine? If so does dropping either the FEL or just the bucket make any difference?

My first thought is always a plugged radiator and/or screen, bad fan belt or other issue of getting air through the radiator. Have you washed and blown out the radiator and screen?

Is the fan belt glazed or loose?

Any seepage of water around the water pump? Have you tried loosing up the fan belt and spinning the water pump by hand to check for a bad bearing?

Have you checked the thermostat?

Does the tractor overheat when doing anything else except mowing? If not, is the mower too much of a load? Does it spin freely when disconnected or could there be bad bearings or other friction issues with the mower adding to the load?

Are you running at, below or above PTO speed on the tach? Does it change the overheating issue if you run below PTO. (Don't run above, the mower isn't rated to turn the PTO faster than rated speed.)

Sorry about all the questions but your answers might help someone give you a solid solution.

Treefarmer
Hey Treefarmer -- thanks for your thoughts :
1- Engine Temp gauge, even when tranny case is so hot you can't put your feet down, is on the middle - operating temp mark, ie NOT overheating

2-Changed out the cheap-as-crap JD fuel lines about 2 years ago. Removed the nylon thimble inside the tank, and put an in-line diesel Napa filter (with a shut-off valve on the tank side) so I can change it regardless of tank level. Recently changed this filter and JD filter while the heating problems are occurring. Didn't eliminate heating problems.

3- Mower is a JD MX8, on 3-point hitch. It IS a heavy mower, but I run with the Draft Control OFF, so bumps in the terrain shouldn't be triggering lift arm motion. I-F-F-F-F the internal hitch valve is equalizing, and shutting off hydraulic flow the only hydraulic oil moving should be for steering & brakes

Also think of this concerning the mower --- drop it to cutting height at 7 am, and don't stop till lunch. There should be no continual hydraulic action going on. Even BEFORE the 3 times JD Dealer worked on the unit, overheating never occurred if I was chopping, making rows, or other work, where typically, at the end of every row you are lifting the tool, turning around, and dropping the tool, AND doing the same at the other end, again, and again, and again, in other word, working the hydraulics at every turn.

It may have occurred doing some other task, but I am almost 95% sure it only ever got this hot while shredding. This is since NEW, which was 2012. I pull an 11 ft-to 14 ft wide Disk and don't ever remember it overheating then --ps, while lifting/dropping it at every turn.

4- Purchased new with JD loader installed by the Dealer. Moving the bucket doesn't seem to affect situation. My son-in-law and I know to wiggle the Rear Aux Lever every now-and-then in case it is moving oil against a dead end. Once in a blue moon if my wife shreds (God bless her) she doesn't know the tricks. Also, I tend to take the bucket off, and operate with the lift arms as high as necessary so the tallest grass/weeds don't get flicked into the radiator area

5-Water Pump not leaking, belt tight, radiator clean - blown with air and water

Treefarmer - so what is your take ? (In my last post, which was just after your questions, I offered most of the items you listed, but since you were kind enough to ask specific questions, I wanted to answer you directly) Couv
 

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stumped

Hey Treefarmer -- thanks for your thoughts :
1- Engine Temp gauge, even when tranny case is so hot you can't put your feet down, is on the middle - operating temp mark, ie NOT overheating

2-Changed out the cheap-as-crap JD fuel lines about 2 years ago. Removed the nylon thimble inside the tank, and put an in-line diesel Napa filter (with a shut-off valve on the tank side) so I can change it regardless of tank level. Recently changed this filter and JD filter while the heating problems are occurring. Didn't eliminate heating problems.

3- Mower is a JD MX8, on 3-point hitch. It IS a heavy mower, but I run with the Draft Control OFF, so bumps in the terrain shouldn't be triggering lift arm motion. I-F-F-F-F the internal hitch valve is equalizing, and shutting off hydraulic flow the only hydraulic oil moving should be for steering & brakes

Also think of this concerning the mower --- drop it to cutting height at 7 am, and don't stop till lunch. There should be no continual hydraulic action going on. Even BEFORE the 3 times JD Dealer worked on the unit, overheating never occurred if I was chopping, making rows, or other work, where typically, at the end of every row you are lifting the tool, turning around, and dropping the tool, AND doing the same at the other end, again, and again, and again, in other word, working the hydraulics at every turn.

It may have occurred doing some other task, but I am almost 95% sure it only ever got this hot while shredding. This is since NEW, which was 2012. I pull an 11 ft-to 14 ft wide Disk and don't ever remember it overheating then --ps, while lifting/dropping it at every turn.

4- Purchased new with JD loader installed by the Dealer. Moving the bucket doesn't seem to affect situation. My son-in-law and I know to wiggle the Rear Aux Lever every now-and-then in case it is moving oil against a dead end. Once in a blue moon if my wife shreds (God bless her) she doesn't know the tricks. Also, I tend to take the bucket off, and operate with the lift arms as high as necessary so the tallest grass/weeds don't get flicked into the radiator area

5-Water Pump not leaking, belt tight, radiator clean - blown with air and water

Treefarmer - so what is your take ? (In my last post, which was just after your questions, I offered most of the items you listed, but since you were kind enough to ask specific questions, I wanted to answer you directly) Couv
I'll admit I'm stumped. My only thought at this point is to use an infrared thermometer and try to pinpoint the heat source, from engine to transmission to hydraulics. Based on your responses, I'm guessing it's not an engine issue just because the gauge is ok plus I think you would see some steam from the coolant overflow tank if it was getting that hot but I can't rule it totally out. If you hit an external hydraulic line and it shows up extremely hot, that would give you a hint anyway. I ran a Kubota one time with a remove hydraulic line and the control wasn't a float like I expected. That gave a similar issue although not as hot as you describe but it was still pretty hot. The tractor was new to me and it felt like a float position but that's not what it was so the pump was basically pushing against a dead load.

If the starter motor is that hot, is it possible that it was not disengaging and was being spun by the engine? That's a real, real long shot but I thought I'd ask.

Other than using the infrared, I'd try to isolate the issue. Unfortunately since it takes a while running for it to overheat, that's going to take time. So you could drive around with the mower behind it like you would normally but without the PTO on. That sounds silly but it would tell you if it's a PTO / transmission issue or hydraulics. I'd also check the mower in case it's got a bad bearing or other issue that's putting a strain on things but I think that would cause engine overheating.

I hope someone else on the site has better ideas because I'm really not helping you much.

Treefarmer
 

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I'll admit I'm stumped. My only thought at this point is to use an infrared thermometer and try to pinpoint the heat source, from engine to transmission to hydraulics. Based on your responses, I'm guessing it's not an engine issue just because the gauge is ok plus I think you would see some steam from the coolant overflow tank if it was getting that hot but I can't rule it totally out. If you hit an external hydraulic line and it shows up extremely hot, that would give you a hint anyway. I ran a Kubota one time with a remove hydraulic line and the control wasn't a float like I expected. That gave a similar issue although not as hot as you describe but it was still pretty hot. The tractor was new to me and it felt like a float position but that's not what it was so the pump was basically pushing against a dead load.

If the starter motor is that hot, is it possible that it was not disengaging and was being spun by the engine? That's a real, real long shot but I thought I'd ask.

Other than using the infrared, I'd try to isolate the issue. Unfortunately since it takes a while running for it to overheat, that's going to take time. So you could drive around with the mower behind it like you would normally but without the PTO on. That sounds silly but it would tell you if it's a PTO / transmission issue or hydraulics. I'd also check the mower in case it's got a bad bearing or other issue that's putting a strain on things but I think that would cause engine overheating.

I hope someone else on the site has better ideas because I'm really not helping you much.

Treefarmer
It would be worth the couple hours to find out if PTO off, cutter still on, it still over heats.

I am ASSUMING power reverser trans and hydraulic PTO, not 9/3 and two stage clutch for PTO.

Someone else asked which transmission too, but I did not see an answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Zebra5

May have to try mowing with PTO off
Mine is 9x3 tranny. NOT power reverser.

My recent visit to JD dealer asked about the pto clutch. Drive clutch and pto clutch are in front of and outside.of the tranny case. Only the pto shaft goes through the case.

Hard to believe that a shaft will generate heat, sitting in 10 gallons of oil
 

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Dealer was probably thinking you had the PowerReverser transmission, not the two stage clutch. As was I, since you did not post which trans you had. I was thinking a slipping hydraulic PTO clutch would be overheating your fluid. BUT not the case.
 
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