5065E- part # for telescoping draft links?

Here you go

Hodge... Basically you can call the various used parts yards and ask for a 5 series draft link. (I did) The only difference is the ball ends. The older style, the balls were removable, the newer style had two holes in the ball, the newest style is simply cat 2 only with a sleeve for cat 1. If you get the middle style, use a sleeve for cat 1 implements. They break when cat 1 pins used alone.

I looked into this shortly after I bought my 5065E. With everything I would need for the change over I was quoted around $1800. I have the telescoping links on my 5225 and really like them but I'm not sure if I like them that much. I installed the "Pat's Hitches" instead which was a great improvement.

letmgrow said:

I looked into this shortly after I bought my 5065E. With everything I would need for the change over I was quoted around $1800. I have the telescoping links on my 5225 and really like them but I'm not sure if I like them that much. I installed the "Pat's Hitches" instead which was a great improvement.

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A used set from a salvage yard set me back about $500 and that included $90 of shipping. I sold the original links for almost half that. It's surely worth that to me.

hosspuller said:

A used set from a salvage yard set me back about $500 and that included $90 of shipping. I sold the original links for almost half that. It's surely worth that to me.

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For sure, at that price I'd jump all over it. I'm surprised you found the parts at a salvage yard. They haven't been around that long. I'm equally as surprised you found a buyer for the original parts too. I wonder what happened to his original links that he needed yours.
You did well for yourself.
Shoot a couple of pictures so we know what we need and what to ask for.

Letmgrow ... Actually the parts have been available about for 25+ years. my 5200 is a '96 model. The telescopic links have been through at least three iterations... so part numbers may not help much. I think all of the 5xxx series and several more use the same link dimensions so they're interchangeable.

I used these p/n 's in the search

Part # is SJ11072 and SJ11073 for left and right. .

What parts were you quoted besides the two links ? I only changed out the two links for the original two links. Everything else fit.

When I ordered my 2007 5225 cab tractor the telescoping draft links were optional so that is the way I spec'd the tractor out. When I ordered my 5065E in 2012 I asked about the telescoping links and I was told they weren't available on the 5065E. My 5065E is a Cat. 2. A couple years later or maybe more I saw a new 5065E which had the telescoping links in the dealership's lot. I inquired about buying the necessary parts to change mine over. The mounting brackets were different as well as the what I would call the stabilizer links which adjust the width between the draft links. The stabilizer links were like the ones I have on my 5225 which are square tubing with a pin which fits into selective holes to adjust the width or will can be put into a hole which will allow the draft links to swing from side to side. The standard stabilizer links are the threaded rods which must be turned in or out to adjust the width or can be left slack to allow the draft links to swing from side to side which is limited by the slack in the stabilizer links. The attachment points on the draft links for the stabilizer are different between my two JD tractors. This may be why they quoted me for the complete set up. Once I got a price I quit asking questions.
We could both be right or wrong as I'm sure designs have evolved and changed over the years.
As I said I installed the "Pat's Hitch" set up. One of the reasons why is all of my attachments are category one with the exception of my King Kutter brush cutter which the width of the attaching pins is between a Cat. 1 and a Cat.2. The "Pat's Hitch" can be adjusted so the pins fit squarely in the hitch without putting the pins in a bind with any of my attachments. The draft link balls in my 5065E are Cat. 2 but the"Pat's Hitch" converts to a Cat. 1. The balls in the draft links in my 5225 can be turned to select either Cat. 1 or Cat. 2.
I have a "Quick Hitch" I have only used a couple times. I've been hooking up attachments to tractors since before 3 pt. hitches became common. I find no problem getting off and back onto a tractor to hook up an attachment and the top link which always seems to need adjustment anyway
The only time I use the telescoping links on my 5225 is when I hook up my Frontier RT 1170 tiller. You don't just grab that tiller and slide or roll it around (at least I don't). I hook up to the tiller, take it outside of my barn, drop it down to the ground and back up to lock the links into place then make my top link adjustments, drop the pins in the links so the tiller can swing from side to side and be on my way.
The hitch on my tiller can be adjusted for width so it can be compatible with either Cat. 1 or Cat. 2. I have it set as a Cat.1 so it will work with any of my three tractors although I use it only with my cab tractor. Helps to keep my pressure washer exercised. LOL

letmgrow
Good to know the stabilizer links make the difference between the tele draft links. Both of my machines have the threaded turnbuckle. (1996 5200 & 2015 5065e)

With that, my previous posts apply to the threaded turnbuckle tractors.

Since your tele draft links have the two hole ball ends, I was told the cat 1 hole is a weak point. ( I don't see how a broken 2 hole ball can be replaced. Original tele link came with two balls. A pin holds them in place.) And, that's why the latest iteration only has a cat 2 hole and uses a sleeve to fit cat 1. (sleeves are standard stuff to convert cat 2 to cat 1)

I first got the tele links when I pinched a finger mounting a cutter . With the tele links I back close enough to get the pins on. Then back until I hear the click, then the top link. Most of my attachments weigh over 1000 pounds so there's no muscling them around by me either. I'm old. 😛

The balls in my 5225 arms are still tight and show no signs of wear. I do take care to keep my tractors clean and they are stored inside which helps keep things rust free. Rust will accelerate wear on moving parts like the balls which are moving slightly all the time. I don't use a lube on them as it would attract dirt and cause wear.
The balls are available by themselves. I helped a neighbor replace a missing ball in one of the links in his 1020. I packed the ball in dry ice for a couple hours and had the link set up in my 50 T. shop press. When we were ready I pulled the ball out of the ice with a pair of Channel Lock pliers, placed the ball in the link and the ball popped in with very little effort at all. This was several years ago and the ball is still in place.

.. - Kit
Part Number
LV100102
Qty Req
1

Remarks
(INCLUDES SJ11072 AND SJ11073), COMPLETE GOODS

Letmgrow ... a favor ... Would you compare the tele links you have on your 5225 with your 5065 ?

There's photos of a 5625 with tele links and the tele stabilizer. Seems to me the tele links will interchange. Don't think Hp is a concern since the 5625 is a 100 Hp machine. I kinda remember my tele links came off a burned 5625.

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/205333391/2008-john-deere-5625

I went out to my barn and looked at the links and stabilizers on my 5225 and my 5065. It looks to me like the parts would interchange. The pins holding the stabilizers appear to be the same size in both of the mounting brackets. Even though they are different in appearance I believe they would interchange.also. The stabilizers on the 5225 with the telescoping links have 6 holes in them for width adjustment or can be left in a float position so the 3 pt. can swing freely from side to side. The float position is the one I use when running my 6' tiller. It allows the tiller to swing away from a rock, which I seem to have no shortage of, when you hit one. I've used my tiller a lot but have only replaced three tines in the tiller since I have had it and I bought the tiller the same year as my 5225, year 2007.
The stabilizers both serve the same purpose. I prefer the ones on my 5225 as there is no cranking on a turnbuckle and having to tighten the lock nut to keep them adjusted. It's easier to just remove and replace the pin in each of the stabilizers on the 5225.
I lock the stabilizers into place when using my 90" grooming mower when I'm mowing between my 1400 Norway Spruce trees. I want the control so I won't hit or mow down a tree when mowing between on some of the uneven ground they are planted on. I also have other trees such as apple trees I try not to bump them if I can and damage them. I don't use either of my brush cutters behind my 5225. Where I go with a brush cutter, my 5225 cab tractor will never see. Not that I'm fussy but the 5225 has seen more coats of wax than my '67 Firebird 400 convertible I've owned since 1983. Even the rubber mat in my 5225 has only seen feet when I drove it home from my dealer's. The first night I had it my wife and I made a pattern out of newspaper and we cut out a piece of indoor-outdoor carpeting and covered the rubber mat. The carpet gets vacuumed regularly.
My brush cutter tractor is my '87 Ford 2110 4WD diesel and I'm even careful with that one.

Letmgrow ... Thanks for the personal research... So the tele draft links WILL interchange between the turnbuckle and telescopic stabilizers... (Both of mine are turnbuckle stabilizers)

That fact will help folks wanting to change out their draft links to telescopic draft links like I did. Just remember there are three iterations of telescopic draft links... all will interchange between turnbuckle and telescopic stabilizers.

My tractors are open station. Had a cab almost bought, but the deal fell through. In hind sight it was a good thing for my use. I don't do a lot of open field work. Most of my tractor work is among the trees or chores (requiring a lot of off tractor work, where a door would be trouble) The canopy is a fair compromise.

When I started shopping for a new tractor my wife insisted I buy a cab tractor. The previous summer I was mowing my 21 acre field behind my house and I became a little dizzy. I parked my Ford 2110 under a shade tree and started walking back to my house. When I got to my back steps I fell and luckily my wife was nearby and heard me. With the help of my daughter they got me into the house. My wife stripped me down and got me into the bath tub with lukewarm water then turned the shower on spraying me with warm then cool water until I gained my senses. I had a headache and chills but refused to get medical help. I finally came out of it and the next day I finished the mowing in the early morning. To this day I don't know why I parked my Ford where it was cool and walked nearly a half mile back to my house.
I also run a front mount Erskine snowblower on my 5225 in the winter. Nice to have heat and be out of the elements when it's cold and snow is blowing.
I have the canopy on my 5065. It's amazing how well that works. It doesn't compare to the AC in my 5225 though on a hot sunny day..

letmgrow said:

...I also run a front mount Erskine snowblower on my 5225 in the winter. Nice to have heat and be out of the elements when it's cold and snow is blowing...

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When we get a snowfall... I throw another chunk of wood on the fire and enjoy the show of the dancing flames. 😛 Then, wait for the snow & ice to melt.. usually the next day.

hosspuller said:

When we get a snowfall... I throw another chunk of wood on the fire and enjoy the show of the dancing flames. 😛 Then, wait for the snow & ice to melt.. usually the next day.

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Aw, I'm sorry to hear that. I'm up where we get the most snowfall of anyone east of the Rockies.(northern NY state) Our area is known as the "Tug Hill". Plenty of winter recreation here. My son, son in law and I drag race snowmobiles in the winter.
I don't have time for wood. I burn Propane. LOL