[MMoser]

I have a new 2021 5075e. I have a 12-speed transmission with the power reverser. At about 80 hours, I was backing into the shed empty when I heard a loud crack from inside the rear of the tractor. Ever since then, my clutch jerks. It is very hard to ease out on the clutch. The power reverser is still smooth though. I took it to my dealer and they returned it, but it's not better. Any suggestions as to what it might be?

 

[theduke]

I don't kmow how the Regular clutch is built.......If like anything else standard ,it sounds like a finger broke off the pressure plate. This system may not even have a PP.. I'm just guessing

I think the reverser clutches are all hydraulic paks....one for each direction.

 

[hosspuller]

Can't say anything about the noise from the transmission.

But, The clutch pedal on a PR is not a clutch. It's a electrical control

From the diagnostic manual "..→NOTE: Clutch modulation controlled by the speed at which the operator releases the clutch pedal. Engagement smooth without any grabbing or chattering."

I habitually allow the clutch to quickly travel to a point where my mechanical clutch starts to grab on old tractor. This causes my new PR tractor to jerk when starting. Try to move slowly from the start.

What did the dealer do or say about it ?

 

[MMoser]

Thank you for your responses. I really appreciate it. I got in touch with the service manager at the dealer and they agreed that there is no conventional clutch in the tractor. They said it is done with hydraulics and sensors. They are coming to get it Monday and look into it. They said their mechanic will be reading up on it. I went to the dealership when they were setting the tractor/loader up and I really like the mechanic. He's pretty sharp. I'll be sure to post when they get it fixed and maybe it will help someone else. Thanks again.

 

[MMoser]

They took the tractor in and checked it out. They said the clutch is hydraulic and they adjusted the sensitivity of the clutch engagement to its lowest level. They asked me to come in and drive it before they brought it back. It is better, but still not right. In the future, I think instead of doing pallet fork work in "A" range, I'm going to try it in "B" range. It will be harder for it to jerk in a higher gear. I'm still sure there was a loud crack from somewhere in the rear end area and ever since then the clutch has jerked. The mechanic is very nice and I believe he is very competent. He did some reading and couldn't find anyone else with this issue. Thanks for your help here on this forum. I'll write back if we find anything in the future.

 

[workinonit]

Why are you using the "clutch" so much. I hardly ever use my pedal when doing anything.

 

[flyweight]

MMoser,

I will admit that I'm not familiar with the newer JD tractors, but I'm familiar with JD's design thinking. I viewed the Parts breakdown for the 5075E, 12 speed with Power Reverser.
I see what seems to me , to be a Clutch Modulation Valve (#8 in image below). If this valve is dragging in its bore, it can cause jerky clutch operation.

This is a thought:
If something broke in the powertrain (the noise you heard), metal debris may have worked its way to the clutch valve and is causing it to drag in its bore.

 

[MMoser]

Why are you using the "clutch" so much. I hardly ever use my pedal when doing anything.

Workinonit, Thanks for your input. Great question. I have a loader with forks. I do a lot of pallet work. I need to ease into and out of the pallets. The other day I relocated 40 pallets inside a building. On 2 of them, I lost a bit of the cargo because of the jerking clutch. I grew up on a large farm and I'm pretty good with equipment. We farmed 1,000 acres, irrigated about 750 of it and also raised 10,000 hogs a year, so I'm not a novice. I even built some of our farm implements. Believe me, I don't use the clutch with the shuttle shift. Also, I'm placing small landscaping stones around a 15,000 square foot building and the jerking clutch makes feathering up to the building to dump the stones a bit tenuous. I think I'll try "B" range and the clutch will be more apt to slip. I do know the clutch didn't jerk until a few weeks ago when I heard a loud crack in the rear end and then the jerking clutch started instantly. Since it's on warranty, I was just hoping to get it fixed. They are bringing the tractor back today. Thanks for your post. I appreciate all your input on this.

 

[MMoser]

MMoser,

I will admit that I'm not familiar with the newer JD tractors, but I'm familiar with JD's design thinking. I viewed the Parts breakdown for the 5075E, 12 speed with Power Reverser.
I see what seems to me , to be a Clutch Modulation Valve (#8 in image below). If this valve is dragging in its bore, it can cause jerky clutch operation.
View attachment 815271

This is a thought:
If something broke in the powertrain (the noise you heard), metal debris may have worked its way to the clutch valve and is causing it to drag in its bore.

View attachment 815272

Flyweight, Thank you for your input. I hadn't thought of that scenario, but your suggestion makes a lot of sense. So far, I think it's probably the most likely possibility. I'll keep you posted if I learn more in the future. Thank you for your comment. I really appreciate the feedback.

 

[MMoser]

I got the tractor back and the jerking clutch problem is a lot better, but not completely solved. They changed the settings on the hydraulic packs that power the clutch (I think I have that terminology right). The clutch doesn't jerk like before. The one change is that the clutch pedal has to be let out a lot more than it did before. Instead of engaging mid range, it's more like 3/4 range. I assume that it didn't change the total engagement of the clutch and it won't slip under load. I still think that something broke inside the rear end when I hear the loud crack an there is something wrong inside, but I'm sure they really hate to split the tractor with no more proof than they have. I may be wrong, but I really don't believe so. I thought about changing the hydraulic filter and cutting the old one open and looking inside. If it has some major chunks - shavings, that could tell the story. I also like "Flyweight's" suggestion about maybe something broke off inside and is causing the clutch valve to catch. I really don't think I'll take it apart as it is on warranty. Thank you for your input. I'll post on this again if I find out anything new.

 

[letmgrow]

These adjustments don't mean squat. While you may think there is some improvement chances are it won't last. There is little doubt the noise you heard is related to the cause of your problem so dancing around the actual cause isn't going to solve anything.
If the dealer can't solve the problem it's time John Deere did. They should have someone who could come in and accurately diagnose your problem and recommend the proper repair procedure. I have little doubt you are causing undue wear to other parts running the tractor the way it is now. Once it's out of warranty and those stressed and worn parts begin to fail the bill will be on your dime.
I'd be camped out at my dealer's if they treated me the way you are being treated. You deserve better. Don't let up.

 

[MMoser]

These adjustments don't mean squat. While you may think there is some improvement chances are it won't last. There is little doubt the noise you heard is related to the cause of your problem so dancing around the actual cause isn't going to solve anything.
If the dealer can't solve the problem it's time John Deere did. They should have someone who could come in and accurately diagnose your problem and recommend the proper repair procedure. I have little doubt you are causing undue wear to other parts running the tractor the way it is now. Once it's out of warranty and those stressed and worn parts begin to fail the bill will be on your dime.
I'd be camped out at my dealer's if they treated me the way you are being treated. You deserve better. Don't let up.

Thank you. I appreciate the feedback. I think you are right.

Can't say anything about the noise from the transmission.

But, The clutch pedal on a PR is not a clutch. It's a electrical control

From the diagnostic manual "..→NOTE: Clutch modulation controlled by the speed at which the operator releases the clutch pedal. Engagement smooth without any grabbing or chattering."

I habitually allow the clutch to quickly travel to a point where my mechanical clutch starts to grab on old tractor. This causes my new PR tractor to jerk when starting. Try to move slowly from the start.

What did the dealer do or say about it ?

I tried to move slowly when engaging the clutch. It didn't help. Thanks for the input though.

 

[letmgrow]

Any progress in resolving your problem?