5075E died while idling

I know you were not intentionally using the PTO with the box blade, but if it had been accidentally turned on, and you got off the seat, it would have shut off the tractor.

It also will not start with the PTO turned on, so check your PTO switch just to be sure.

Thanks for the advice. I will double check it but it has the pull up engagement button and I am fairly certain I did not touch it. It was running fine and just shut down. I had been off the tractor for 10-15 seconds before it died.

JD Driver said:

I know you were not intentionally using the PTO with the box blade, but if it had been accidentally turned on, and you got off the seat, it would have shut off the tractor.

It also will not start with the PTO turned on, so check your PTO switch just to be sure.

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This might not apply to your situation. However, I had a somewhat similar experience but mine wasn't idling. I was bushhogging and suddenly the tractor just bogged down and shut off. It wouldn't restart and after 10-15 minutes you could get it to turn over for 30 seconds before shutting off.

It turns out that a large stick/branch got kicked up and caught between the frame and was pinching the fuel line. Removed the stick and there was no additional damage. The issue stopped.

Your fuel gauge or sending unit might be broken or Check all fuel fittings and filters for tightness. Just thinking out loud!

Here is a thread from last year about a 5075E starting problem that might have some tips.


If the fuel solenoid valve coil failed, the engine would die and wouldn't restart.

In the above linked thread, the problem was a blocked fuel return line.

I love my new tractor but I'm with you on the 5310. I wish I had kept mine as well. I almost did, came so close. I sure do miss that tractor at times. That was by far the best machine I've ever owned.

I suggest to check for a blown fuse. It's possible cold-start sensor has failed. Disconnect CS sensor then attempt starting engine

Thanks for your reply but I was working in the driveway so there was nothing to interfere or damage the fuel lines.. that is good to keep in the back of my mind though for when I am in the wood lot. Thanks again for the suggestion.

Check for good fuel flow from tank to inj pump. It's possible tank stopped venting.

You all have given me a few good places to start. Keep the suggestions coming as they are greatly appreciated! I might not get to do much troubleshooting until the weekend unfortunately but I will be sure to post any updates.

So I got a chance to take a quick look at the tractor today. I looked in the tank to make sure it still had fuel and to my surprise it was empty despite the gauge reading a little over half full. I could see the entire strainer/filter and it looks to be almost plugged with black crap. I picked up a new fuel filter as well as a new fuel line since that is cracked and in bad shape. I will change them out this weekend and will remove and clean the tank strainer as well. Since it ran out of fuel do I have to do anything else besides prime the filter? I will fill the fuel line when I change it out. Thanks everyone.

Congratulations & thanks for posting your "empty fuel tank" discovery.

I would think you will have to bleed the air at the injector pump once you get fuel flow. I always did on my 5310 when I replaced the fuel filter or ran it out of fuel.

You will need to remove the fuel tank and the sending unit as well as the strainer to get the tank clean. Using hot water and Super Klean you should be able to loosen and remove any sludge or contamination from the tank and sending unit. Once you have cleaned the sending unit plug it into the wiring harness, turn the ignition on and watch the fuel gauge as you lift the float on the sender up and down to confirm the unit is working properly before putting it back into the tank.
Once you have thoroughly cleaned the tank rinse with hot water and set the tank out in the sun to dry it.
If the residue in the tank is too stubborn you may have to use mineral spirits or even gasoline to loosen the residue before the Super Klean will do it's job.
Check your fuel cans or tank to try finding where the residue came from.

Lol Tx Jim, earth shattering wasn't it! Anyway it at least brought out some good ideas in case it was something else. What is the best way to bleed the injector pump and is it necessary. I plan on bleeding the fuel filter but is it necessary to go further on a 2017 5075E? Thanks letmgrow for the additional clean up advice. The tractor is new to me and I have only put about 12 gallons of fuel through it. Obviously the previous owner was not particular on what was going in the tank. I am hoping to get it all done today and up and running, we'll see how that goes.

I'll also suggest to add a fuel conditioner that contains a Bio-cide.

Different type injection pumps require different bleeding procedures. I suggest to bleed air from fuel system all the way to injection pump then attempt to start engine. If there's a no start of engine after a few attempts then I will recommend loosening fuel line nuts at injectors in order to disperse any air in fuel lines then engage starter. When air free fuel appears tighten line nuts.

Teamgreen said:

Thanks letmgrow for the additional clean up advice. The tractor is new to me and I have only put about 12 gallons of fuel through it. Obviously the previous owner was not particular on what was going in the tank. I am hoping to get it all done today and up and running, we'll see how that goes.

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Trust me, I'm not trying to make more work for you. I'm trying to save you work. If you're pumping contaminated fuel into the lines and pump eventually it will reach the injectors and plug them up. Clean fuel has to start at the source which is the fuel tank. Running out of fuel was the best thing that could happen to you. At least you don't have to drain the tank and discard bad fuel.
I have nothing against additives but I use them to supplement clean fuel not to clean fuel or system components.

Well we got it all changed out and cleaned up. Filled up the new fuel filter, fuel line, and fuel tank and tried to fire it. It took five tries of 10-12 seconds and then it started. All is well once again. The tank had a lot of black plastic shavings and the bottom was milky looking. It cleaned up nicely and I will be adding an additive which contains Bio-cide . Thanks to everyone.👍🏻

Where is your diesel fuel coming from? Do you have your own tank and use 'off road diesel' or are you buying fuel from a pump? If you're buying from a pump you shouldn't need an additive unless you won't be using the tractor much and it'll be sitting for a period of time between uses.
I do add additives to my fuel but I have a 250 gal. tank which only gets filled once a year and it never gets totally emptied. I also have two final filters on the storage tank in my barn. I've never seen a drop of water in the clear glass filter housings.The filters still look clean when I change them yearly when I get a delivery.