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5105 Fuel injector pump removal

24164 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  jd5210
I guess I should start at the beginning . . .

My 5105 died while running, and I eventually discovered lots of water in the fuel separator. Another Einstein here that didn't read the manual and so I didn't know I was supposed to be draining it every ten hours. I don't use this tractor much so it sits, often with a half empty or less tank of fuel and builds up condensation in the tank. Lesson learned - fill tank before parking everytime, and drain water every 10 hours at least.

After I disassembled and reassembled the water separator and priming housing etc. and got it all clean, I primed the system and turned the key. It turned over for about 15 seconds and then just quit. I eventually discovered the 30A key switch fuse was blown. So, I replaced it . . same thing. No surprise - a blown fuse usually has a cause and until that is fixed you just keep blowing them. Called the dealer and support guy said to remove the plug from the water temp sensor above the injector pump that when they go bad it will blow that fuse. So I did that. Still blowing fuses.

Called him back he said i must have removed the wrong one I said I don't think so - he says take your phone out to the tractor let me walk you through this so I did. Sure enough after walking through step-by-step he agreed I had performed the steps exactly as he had instructed. So he says the shutoff solenoid must be shorted and that it is not separate on that Stanadyne pump and the whloe injector pump must be replaced - cost $base cost = $1020.

Hmm so naturally I do some checking and find a place where a guy there rebuilds them for much cheaper and says he can replace the solenoid for around $100 - I did some checking on him and everyone I called (other "old-timer" farmers/ranchers) knew of him and his reputation is sterling. But I'm having 9 kinds of heck trying to get this pump off, and now I just read that if I remove the pump the tractor will have to be re-timed. The support tech at the dealership where my dad bought the tractor is not sue how to remove the pump (???) and neither am I. Has anyone had this experience with their 5 series tractor and if so was it the solenoid? And did you remove the pump yourself?

I know this is a lot of questions but I am trying to give enough info that if anyone can help they won't have to ask me to fill in some blanks. Thank you. Kevin.
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Which fuse are you blowing? I have attached the URL for the manual for 5105. I ask because the fuel solenoid is a 20 amp fuse. We have the same engine and what the dealer had you disconnect was the cold start advance. Have you tested that the fuel solenoid is it in fact not working? Over the past 3 years, I have read a lot of various posts on the 3029D and have never seen a post on fuel solenoid problems on the 3029D, but there is always a first.

Since you said it was the 30A switch fuse. Your problem may not be the fuel solenoid. I have included some procedures to test it. Let me know, if in fact it is not the solenoid, but the switch circuit and I will look at my tech manual and see if I can make some suggest as to what is shorting it out.

The following is from the tech manual for my 5210 to test the fuel solenoid.
PROCEDURE: Turn key switch to ON position. Solenoid plunger should pull in fully with an audible “click”.
RESULTS: If “click” is not heard, connect jumper wire from battery positive terminal to solenoid terminal screw.
If solenoid “clicks” when connected to battery, check wiring circuit to solenoid.
If solenoid does not “click” when connected to battery, replace solenoid
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I hope I am not sending you in the wrong direction, but I suggest exhausting other options before removing the pump.

Yours being the second fuse diagram, your wiring is different than mine. I agree with the tech it is common for the sensor on the thermostat housing part # RE503242 to go bad. From personnel experience and helping 8 other people (on another site) with a bad sensor the fuse blows the second you turn the key. Disconnect the fuel solenoid, disabling it all together, and see if you still have the problem. I have had my tractor for 3 years and 250 hours, must admit I have never heard that solenoid click.

The following is from the manual on my engine how to remove the pump. Looking at JDparts, your pump looks like mine does. I can print, scan and I think be allowed to post the 3 pages the following came from if needed.

1. Clean fuel injection pump, lines and area around pump with cleaning solvent.
2. Check for the presence of timing marks on front plate (A) and injection pump flange (B). If necessary, mark both the pump and the front plate.
3. Disconnect the following elements , cold start advance system (A), shut-off system (B), speed control linkage (C), fuel return line (D), fuel supply line (E) and fuel injection lines (F)
IMPORTANT: Always use a backup wrench when loosening or tightening fuel injection lines at injection pump to prevent rotation of the discharge fitting.
4. Plug all open connections on pump and fuel lines. Do not use fibrous material.
5. Remove plug (A) from mounting hole in timing gear cover.
6. Remove nut (B) and washer securing the fuel injection pump drive gear to pump shaft.
7. Attach special tool JDG1560 to gear. Remove the three nuts holding fuel injection pump to engine front plate.
8. Turn cap screw of special tool clockwise until pump shaft is loosened from conical seat of drive gear.
9. Remove center forcing screw from pulling tool and tighten the two screws of the tool until gear is pulled against cover. This will avoid that gear becomes disengaged from upper idler gear.
10. Pull fuel injection pump backward from the three studs.
NOTE: When removing fuel injection pump, be careful not to lose the pump shaft Woodruff key
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All is not lost. I think from the attachment you will see the tool you need to push the shaft out.

I am guessing, you just have not completed one step yet. Check your private messages.


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