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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 513 Rotary Cutter that needs a new gearbox (or repair this gearbox). I've found some aftermarket boxes out there that will fit with a driveshaft/slip clutch replacement, but I would like to find a direct fit (or may...yeah I'd do it... modify a gearbox to make it work).

this gearbox has a groove in the input shaft, around the shaft, where a bolt goes in the slip clutch coupling. This is so the the slip clutch/drive shaft doesn't fall off if the shear pin breaks. I'm not easily finding a box with this groove in it. Most of them I have look like they take a snap ring in the end of the input shaft or something ?? or they are a splined shaft with the groove (not smooth with groove).

I didn't get the best pics, but anyone have any suggestions? I have access to a machine shop, and I'm pretty sure the tool and die makers would jump at a chance to modify a brand new input shaft. lol.

IMG_1401.jpg

IMG_1402.jpg
 

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Never seen a replacement with that groove, but like you said - just have the boys turn it for ya.

Surplus Center has great prices on US Made Omni gear boxes and they generally come with a new hub too. ASC has a little better price on some of theirs but they're Grizzly and most likely made somewhere in Asia (they don't say). The Grizzly's don't tend to come with new hubs, and if you don't need one it's not a big deal, but getting a spare free seems like a no-brainer IMO.


Btw, a slip clutch with a shear bolt is redundant. I'd just put a grade 5 in there and be done with it.
 

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Seems like I saw a JD rotary cutter not long ago on Craigslist for a great price with a busted gearbox, just curious if it wasnt this one it?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Seems like I saw a JD rotary cutter not long ago on Craigslist for a great price with a busted gearbox, just curious if it wasnt this one it?
No, not this one. I've owned it for 17 years, got it new, and it just broke Monday. It has taken a small beating. I can't afford another new one right now. so will definitely be finding a way to put this one back together over the next few weeks.
 

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Driveguy,

What specifically is wrong with your gearbox? Gears, shafts, both? I rebuilt the Peerles gearbox on my 60" deck about 5 years ago. I had to replace the input shaft, bearings and seals. No labor, but I don't believe I had $200 into it.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I finally got the gearbox completely off this week. Life and vacation got in the way. Had to use a 2 jaw puller and a few wacks of a hammer to get the blade holder off.

Opened the box. looks like the top bearing on the output "pinion" shaft decided it was time to give up the ghost. The input bearings seemed to be fine with no play.

So I might just replace both output bearings and both shaft seals. The weird thing is, I can't find an aftermarket shaft seal for this thing. I can find OEM ones for 3x or 4x what it should cost for a shaft seal (eg $35-$40..what kind of crap is that? It's just stupid and arrogance).

The seal says it is a 39-80-10. That 39mm ID is what I can't find. Most places go from a 38mm straight to a 40mm. The ID of the output bearings are 40mm, but they've undercut this shaft by 1mm wherever the bearings races don't sit... so kind of made it hard on me I think. Any ideas?

The very edges of the pinion teeth got chewed up a bit, but I'm going to take a sanding disk or grinder to lightly smooth that out and take the edges off. My machine shop guys say it won't be an issue... you can tell where the teeth mesh at, the part that got dinged up, doesn't even look like it ever touches the large gear... considering I can't buy that pinion shaft or the large gear either... we're just going to roll with it... I'm sure if I can find a output shaft seal, I drop 2 bearings in this thing it will roll another 17 years.

Note for anyone else working on the 513 gearbox here are the parts:
Input bearing 2x: 32007X
Output bearing 2x: 32008X
Input shaft seal 1x: 34-62-6
Output shaft seal 1x: 39-80-10

Also note this thing comes apart like any other gearbox. Several videos on youtube if needed. in short pop the endcap off the back side, shaft seals out the front side and bottom. Take off the snap rings off of those sides as well. There are shims on all three sides, remove those and keep track of them. press the shaft out pressing from the side that the large gear is on (mine is on the front, so I pressed the shaft from the front and out the back). I also used some rectangle stock to "block" the large gear in there (it kind of wanted to kick sideways from coming in contact with the pinion gear, so the blocking allowed me to press it off the input shaft while not kicking sideways). Once the input shaft is out I pressed out the output shaft pressing on the shaft end. Then I used some scrap stock to knock the outer races of the output bearings out.... now if I had some blasted parts... especially that output seal... I'd be in business by the weekend!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For anyone that is still with me... I measured the output shaft where the seal contacts it at 39.900 mm. so about 100 microns under. Specs on shaft seals say they are good for about 80 microns under, however ISO specs say for lip seals you should be good down to 160 microns... so that said I'm going to likely just roll with a standard 40mm ID seal, double lip for $10 and see how she rolls. I'm likely going on the cheap and only getting the two output bearings and see if I can get this thing back together for $60.... don't worry, my friends/coworkers already make fun of me for how cheap I am.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well. It's back together and installed. I even fixed my busted slip clutch shroud with a dozen or so wire ties and 8 fender washers. :laugh:

Ran it for 5 minutes last night. Sounds and worked better than it did new. The gear teeth looked pretty good after I cleaned up the edges. They weren't bad though, should have took a pic, just used a dremel grinding bit to take any rough edge off where the gears banged each other up.

Going to check it often for leaks in that bottom seal through the first 8 hours of use. If this standard 40mm double lip seal leaks, instead of ordering the high $ weird 39mm seal, I think I might try and find a speedi sleeve or similar to slide over that shaft. If I remember will update at the end of this season. If anyone has questions hit me up. PS so far have $70 in this rebuild (2 output bearings, 2 shaft seals, 1 tube of RTV to seal up cover and seal up the reused shaft end cap, a few washers and wire ties).

Any who. here is a short video from last night:

[video]https://flic.kr/p/25Tw6kY[/video]
 

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Still holding up ok?

I may be buying one of these with a bad box in a couple days, so I might need some guidance. Hopefully the fix for this one is as economical as yours.
Also, what tractor are you running this on?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Still holding up ok?

I may be buying one of these with a bad box in a couple days, so I might need some guidance. Hopefully the fix for this one is as economical as yours.
Also, what tractor are you running this on?
I saw your PM. Still running fine. The output seal is holding oil just fine, not sure if JD undersized it by a mm for fun or if it was stamped with 39mm just to throw me off. Everything I've read (and mechanical engineers I work with...i'm electrical) have said that under-sizing that shaft seal by a mm is a no-no.. so I don't know what the deal is with that... But so far have about 12 hours on it and zero leaks or issues. 40mm shaft seal on that output is holding up fine. I will note I ran it for 5 minutes, had to put about a cup or 2 of oil in it. Ran it for about 30 minutes, dropped another cup of oil in it and it hasn't been low since. I think it took a little bit of time to get that oil through the top output bearing down into that cavity and that's why I had to add some oil.

I don't know the serial number on it, but can go look at it tomorrow. I was able to get those output bearings on eBay NOS Timken for about $20 ea I think. My bearings had a standard number stamped right on the outer race (some I could see while they were in the box, others I couldn't see a part number until I pressed them out).

I will be mowing with it again the 3rd week of October then it will be put away for the winter.

I'm running it on a 4310 about a 2001 model. I put new axle seals in the 4310 last year... what a time consuming task, but my son's (mostly my middle son...10 year old...at the time) and I did it ourselves.

back to the cutter gearbox...This was quick and painless repair. The hardest part was me deciding on how cheap I wanted to be.... so far cheap has worked out on this one. Fingers crossed.

Hit me up if you have specific questions...will look for that serial number though.

Probably the biggest thing that helped me out is my machine shop friends hooked me up with some pressing tools to get these bearings/seals in and out real easy. These guys are lifesavers, turns this work into butter.
 
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