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Discussion Starter #1
FINALLY found the thermostat housing and got the cold sensor switch replaced. replaced fuse and its starting like a champ. Now to original problem.

Cutting a field of 3-4 acres, starts up and runs for 30 - 45 mins then I can fill the power drop as I cut uphill. Another round and the Rpms drop to 5-10, then back up to 20, back down again then it cuts off. It will restart and run enough to get it back to the house (100 yards) but it sounds like its running rougher than when it first cranked up. If it sits overnight, it cranks up and sounds fine, then this cycle starts all over again. I'm thinking its running hot, but the engine compartment doesn't seem to be hotter than normal, and I don't now if the temp gauge is working. Maybe its not getting enough air or fuel.

I drained the water off the tank and filter, changed the fuel filter, added diesel clean, changed both air filters, oil and filter, new thermostat (that was fun), flushed radiator, new antifreeze, and the cold sensor switch. None of this helped. Took it out to cut grass, 30 mins later it cut off again. I can't figure what is making it cutoff, then starting back after it sits awhile that would not be related to it running hot. I couldn't find a radiator cap, but got one on order.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Charlie
 

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I had a similar problem with my 5320, turns out it was the fuel line needed replacing. The rubber fuel line had deteriorated and it was starving for fuel and had pieces of rubber stuck in the line. Could be your problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
WOW. I had to replace the rubber gasket on my fuel line where you bleed the line. I put a generic O ring on there. While replacing the thermostat, I noticed the other end of the line had deteriorated, so picking up two from JD dealer. Planning on replacing them this week. I will blow out the line when its off.

I'll look at it on the next trip up to the mtns. Makes sense. Seems most of my fuel lines are metal, but they have O rings under the caps. Which section of the fuel line did you have to replace?

Also, i thought of pulling the fuel tank and cleaning it out. Is this a monumental task?

Charlie
 

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Also, i thought of pulling the fuel tank and cleaning it out. Is this a monumental task?

Charlie

When I got my 4105 I was worried about the fuel tank condition,,

I drained the tank, entirely,, including siphoning a little pocket that did not drain,,

Then I was able to look in with a flashlight,, and know there was no trash in the tank,,, :good2:
 

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Definitely sounds like something along the line of fuel delivery. Easiest way is to just start at the tank and keep working your way to the injector pump. I had an issue once on the shutoff valve right where the filter housing is. The O-ring inside rolled and just offered a nominal flow when filling the bowl for the fuel filter. Tractor would run until I put it under heavy load then want to die out. Let it sit 30 sec. fire right up. Run all day at low-med throttle. Full throttle under load that partial block in the line kept wanting to make the tractor want to stall.
 

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There is a vent hose behind the slow moving sign in the back it may be plugged or the vent in the fuel cap. Try removing the fuel cap and see, if that helps. Next time it is low on fuel take a look and see how much junk is at the bottom of the fuel tank. Could be fuel line lines need to be replaced. I have attached a picture of the fuel system. Note the fuel line and fuel return are different sizes. If you decide to take the fuel tank off and clean it. When I did mine the 2 philips screws on the tank strap where the hardest to get off. On fuel line replacement, first step, close the valve at the fuel filter. After replacing lines, fill the tank, at the fuel filter disconnect the fuel line, wait for fuel to come out, put line back on, open fuel shut off. I did this and my 5210 started right up and no need to bleed the tractor.

On engine temperature gauge here are the ohm readings. The sensor is in the back of engine white wire wiring number 359. In the tractor and engine manual I could not find what normal operating temp is. 60C (140F) 134 13.5 ohms - 90C (194F) 51.2 4.3 ohms - 100C (212F) 38.5 3.0 ohms
 

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check the tank screen

WOW. I had to replace the rubber gasket on my fuel line where you bleed the line. I put a generic O ring on there. While replacing the thermostat, I noticed the other end of the line had deteriorated, so picking up two from JD dealer. Planning on replacing them this week. I will blow out the line when its off.

I'll look at it on the next trip up to the mtns. Makes sense. Seems most of my fuel lines are metal, but they have O rings under the caps. Which section of the fuel line did you have to replace?

Also, i thought of pulling the fuel tank and cleaning it out. Is this a monumental task?

Charlie
Before you do that, check the tank screen if possible. We had an IH that drove us nuts until we disconnected the fuel line at the tank petcock and found little fuel was coming out of the tank. The little screen above the petcock was almost completely plugged. Took it out, let some fuel run out of the tank while cleaning the screen, put everything back together and it was fine. Unfortunately that was after installing two new fuel filters, bleeding injection system, scratching our heads and butts etc.

Treefarmer
 

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There is a rubber fuel line from the bottom of the tank to the fuel filter. It can crack and allow air to be sucked in, but I suspect you have reduced flow from the tank due to some dirt in bottom of the tank. Try removing the hose from the bottom of the tank and see how good of flow you have. If flow is good there, then there could also be dirt in the fitting at the fuel filter. There is a shut off valve at the inlet line at the filter and I have seen dirt or an insect get sucked up into the fitting and clog it. Bees and stink bugs seem to find their way into the fuel system somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well success, maybe.
I replaced the radiator cap. Checked the fuel line from tank to fuel filter which looked to be in good shape. Drained the fuel tank and found sand remaining in the bottom of the tank. It was almost like "beach sand". There was an area of sand covering maybe 3" by 2" on the tank bottom in the sunken area at the fuel outlet line. I blew out the fuel lines from fuel filter back to tank, and from fuel filter to the injector pump (after un hooking the line). Mopped the sand out with a strip of cloth tacked to a mop handle. Added new fuel with injector cleaner, hooked all the lines back up, and she ran for two hours without a hitch. I was pulling a box blade on the 1.5 mile gravel road, plus some other light lifting chores. I ran out of grass to bush hog, so that will be the next test.

Thanks again for the help. Especially the fuel system diagram.

Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well it started the same business of shutting down after 30 -45 mins. My buddy told me to change the fuel filter... AGAIN. Told him I already changed it. DO IT AGAIN, he said. So I did. I also drained the tank again and put in some diesel from the city. Was using some country store farm use diesel before. And I also felt like I got the lines bleed better this time. I ran it about 30 mins with no issues a couple months ago. Finally got time to do a 3 hrs test and it is running like a champ.

One note, could diesel go bad at a seldom used country store type setting? I was getting a discount using farm use only diesel but if this could be a problem, the bucks don't add up.

thanks
Charlie
 
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