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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone!
2nd project on the 535 round baler. This is the culprit that caught the baler on fire last season. The lower roller bearing came apart.so i am replacing bearings on both sides. This is my problem i cant get the locking collar pin to come out. Any idea's? I bought new punch that is the correct size and i have beat the crap out of this thing and it hasnt budged a bit. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advanced for any help!
 

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Hello everyone!
2nd project on the 535 round baler. This is the culprit that caught the baler on fire last season. The lower roller bearing came apart.so i am replacing bearings on both sides. This is my problem i cant get the locking collar pin to come out. Any idea's? I bought new punch that is the correct size and i have beat the crap out of this thing and it hasnt budged a bit. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advanced for any help!
Can you cut it off so that you can remove the necessary parts and then just drill it out?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No the pin is inset into the lock collar so there is no way to cut it. Drilling it out not a bad idea! If i cant find a simple solution that will probably be what i do. Thanks for the imput i will update when i decide what im going to do.
 

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Drilling out a roll pin requires a very good drill bit maybe even cobalt or carbide tipped bits. I'll suggest to acquire some Mayhew punches as they are designed to remove roll pins. Tailgate roller roll pin is 5/16'' diameter
 

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Keep spraying it with PB Blaster, let it soak overnight. Try driving it out the next day. If that doesn't work, heat up with torch, then cool down with water. I know, I am going to get hounded about making stuff brittle, I don't care. I know it works, I've been down this road before, I've done this to a 530 baler myself, I know what he is talking about, it will come out. Just don't mushroom the roll pin! Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Keep spraying it with PB Blaster, let it soak overnight. Try driving it out the next day. If that doesn't work, heat up with torch, then cool down with water. I know, I am going to get hounded about making stuff brittle, I don't care. I know it works, I've been down this road before, I've done this to a 530 baler myself, I know what he is talking about, it will come out. Just don't mushroom the roll pin! Good Luck!
Ok thanks for the reply! Im headed out to soak it with pb now. I purchased a set of punches this was before i read these replies. The set has the correct size so we will see what happens tomorrow. Im also going to soak them in the morning before i leave for work. Maybe i will get lucky and the pin will fall out while im at work! Sarcasm of course :laugh:
 

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Ok thanks for the reply! Im headed out to soak it with pb now. I purchased a set of punches this was before i read these replies. The set has the correct size so we will see what happens tomorrow. Im also going to soak them in the morning before i leave for work. Maybe i will get lucky and the pin will fall out while im at work! Sarcasm of course :laugh:
Give it a few squirts whenever you can.....squirts and time are your friend with PB.

Those Mayhew punches are awesome! They will save you extra work, proper tool for the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Drilling out a roll pin requires a very good drill bit maybe even cobalt or carbide tipped bits. I'll suggest to acquire some Mayhew punches as they are designed to remove roll pins. Tailgate roller roll pin is 5/16'' diameter
Thanks Tx Jim for the reply. I picked up a set before i read your reply. They probably are not as hi-quality as the ones you suggested but they do look the same and the set has the correct size. I will post the out come tomorrow. Thanks again for the info!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Drilling out a roll pin requires a very good drill bit maybe even cobalt or carbide tipped bits. I'll suggest to acquire some Mayhew punches as they are designed to remove roll pins. Tailgate roller roll pin is 5/16'' diameter
Hey Tx Jim is 5/16 the normal size for most balers? 5/16 is bigger than what i have. The pins are 1/4. This a older baler 94 model. This is more me just being curious ran into a similar situation with the hydraulic cylinders. They had no numbers stamped into the tube that is how i finally found the correct seal kit. Is this a odd year were they were changing alot of things or is that just the way JD does things?
 

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heat and spray

Keep spraying it with PB Blaster, let it soak overnight. Try driving it out the next day. If that doesn't work, heat up with torch, then cool down with water. I know, I am going to get hounded about making stuff brittle, I don't care. I know it works, I've been down this road before, I've done this to a 530 baler myself, I know what he is talking about, it will come out. Just don't mushroom the roll pin! Good Luck!
Heating with the torch and spray with PB or other penetrating oil also works. Just have water or a fire extinguisher handy if you get things hot enough so the oil flashes on the first spray. You can do this with a small torch, even propane as you aren't trying to get things too hot, just enough to allow the oil room to soak in. Spraying and tapping also helps. Just use a hammer and tap it until you get tired, spraying every now and then. Again, you are trying to drive the pin, just loosen things up enough to allow the oil to move.

On the other hand, if the hay is ready and the baler isn't then it's time for the cutting torch. A collar shouldn't be that expensive and two minutes with a torch might beat a couple of days of spraying it down.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Ok PB worked wonders both pins slid out with no problems! TX Jim I'm not afraid to admit when I'm wrong 5/16 is correct it honestly didn't look like it would slide into the collar. I'm glad you gave me the size or I would have never thought to look it over and probably messed up that pin so thank you for that! So for my next question. The bearing that caused the fire came out in pieces the other side is still good but dad wants to replace it now rather than have it fail this year. Is the bearing pressed on to the hex shaft? If so what is the procedure to remove it?
 

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The bearing is not pressed on. It is a hex shaped inner race to fit the shaft and will slide off. Your dad is right, always change both bearings on a shaft.

If you don't mind, what part of Kansas are you from? I spent 45yrs of my life in SE Kansas, around Galesburg.
 

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If you know were Topeka is and I'm sure you do considering its our state capital I am directly west from Topeka on I70 15 miles give or take. We are close to Maple Hill. I tried pulling that bearing off it moves around but when It to the point that the collar is pinned to it won't go any further. Should I use something to slide behind it to gently pry it off?
 

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Been down in that part of Kansas a few times. Wolf Creek power plant is close to where you lived isn't it? We used to fish the Wolf Creek lake a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey Tx Jim is 5/16 the normal size for most balers? 5/16 is bigger than what i have. The pins are 1/4. This a older baler 94 model. This is more me just being curious ran into a similar situation with the hydraulic cylinders. They had no numbers stamped into the tube that is how i finally found the correct seal kit. Is this a odd year were they were changing alot of things or is that just the way JD does things?
You were correct about the pin size. The 5/16 didn't look like it would pass through the hole in the collar that's why I thought it was 1/4.
 

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If you know were Topeka is and I'm sure you do considering its our state capital I am directly west from Topeka on I70 15 miles give or take. We are close to Maple Hill. I tried pulling that bearing off it moves around but when It to the point that the collar is pinned to it won't go any further. Should I use something to slide behind it to gently pry it off?
Yea, you might have to pry a little, as am thinking that a bur on the shaft, might have developed. It's been a while since I have replaced one, but I now remember having to file one off of the shaft, once I got the bearing off. Take the other side apart as well and you might be able to slide the shaft enough in order to get a bearing puller on your stuck bearing.

I have been thru Topeka a few times, but that was probably 25 yrs ago. Sure miss the life in Kansas! Galesburg is inbetween Parsons and Chanute, probably about an hour and half from Wolf Creek Nuclear Plant.
 

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OK sounds good I will work on it after work. I appreciate your time and advice. Not sure what people ever did before the Internet came around. If it weren't for GTT and you tube I would be lost. I'm mechanically inclined and with knowledge I think I can accomplish about anything. I just recently rebuilt the top end of motor in my car with help from YouTube and auto forum. Got to love the world wide web! Thanks again for everyone's advice!
 

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OK sounds good I will work on it after work. I appreciate your time and advice. Not sure what people ever did before the Internet came around. If it weren't for GTT and you tube I would be lost. I'm mechanically inclined and with knowledge I think I can accomplish about anything. I just recently rebuilt the top end of motor in my car with help from YouTube and auto forum. Got to love the world wide web! Thanks again for everyone's advice!
94 JD 535 ROUND BALER.jpg Ok this is the side that caught fire do to the bearing failure. For anyone that is following this thread and is getting ready to replace the bearing in the lower roller you can remove the bearing by removing the housing that holds the bearing in place. When installing it is much easier to remove the plate that the bearing is bolted too. Then you can reassemble the bearing assembly to the plate then you can bolt the plate back on the baler. Believe me when i say its easier! Thought i would post pics of the tractor and baler you all have helped me with. Thanks again everyone!!!!! 20170525_203631.jpg
 

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Hex shaft

View attachment 375842 Ok this is the side that caught fire do to the bearing failure. For anyone that is following this thread and is getting ready to replace the bearing in the lower roller you can remove the bearing by removing the housing that holds the bearing in place. When installing it is much easier to remove the plate that the bearing is bolted too. Then you can reassemble the bearing assembly to the plate then you can bolt the plate back on the baler. Believe me when i say its easier! Thought i would post pics of the tractor and baler you all have helped me with. Thanks again everyone!!!!! View attachment 375850
I'm not sure I've ever seen a hex shaft through a bearing like that. Is the reason for the hex shaft to give a spot to turn the roller by hand? Our Vermeer has one shaft that's hex on the end but round at the bearing and it's for turning the baler if it jams.

Treefarmer
 
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