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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Found my neighbor on Sunday down on his hands and knees placing a shovel about his trailer trying to free it up from it's hard packed snow encasement. He is Blind. So, brought my 26R over and lifted the trailer tong with the 3-Point no problem. Wiggle Left, Wiggle Right I broke the trailer free and then proceeded to clear the hard pack.... BAM! Shear bolt in front of the Impeller blew and the Blower Drive Chain was obviously either broke of at least jumped off the sprockets.

I replaced the Shear Bolt and luckily the drive chain only jumped the gear set. So, last night we got about 2"s of heavily water laden snow. The blower kinda bucked a bit but, was holding up until... Again the chain jumped the sprocket. My neighbor down the road works on John Deere's in the secondary market has quite a market following around here. Anyway, he will be coming out to access the gear set for Viability later today.

Question: "If" I have to replace the gears.... It this a difficult job? My concern mainly is to get the Smaller gear out of the blower and off the shaft. Not sure how to accomplish it without issues. The Larger on seems quite straightforward. Two set screws/bolts and maybe a gear puller. Any help or insight would be helpful at this point.
 

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54" Blower Gear set? Help?

Just remove the four bolts that attach the input shaft / adjustable mount bracket to remove the drive pinion and sprocket. Then remove the front implement drive / short driveshaft and you're home free. Replace the pinion shaft bearings at the same time you replace the drive sprocket with shaft. Also, inspect the driven sprocket for wear indicated by sharp, pointed teeth. Replace if worn along with a new chain. Two set screws secure the driven sprocket to the fan & auger shaft. Tighten chain to ~ 1/8" to 3/16" average deflection.


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Discussion Starter #3
Just remove the four bolts that attach the input shaft / adjustable mount bracket to remove the drive pinion and sprocket. Then remove the front implement drive / short driveshaft and you're home free. Replace the pinion shaft bearings at the same time you replace the drive sprocket with shaft. Also, inspect the driven sprocket for wear indicated by sharp, pointed teeth. Replace if worn along with a new chain. Two set screws secure the driven sprocket to the fan & auger shaft. Tighten to ~ 1/8" to 3/16" average deflection.


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Sounds EZ enough. Kool. Don't suppose anyone has a diagram of what it looks like before I take it apart? Is the smaller gear on a setscrew also.... I would imagine so etc. Just trying to figure out how far up the shaft the gear is because I don't have extended reach gear pullers for that issue otherwise. Just a thought.
 

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This what you want?

Drive.jpg

Front Drive
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTY SERIAL NO.REMARKS
1AM146805Bracket1
2AM80293Pressed Flanged Housing6ORDER H103264
2BH103264Pressed Flanged Housing6
3JD8665Ball Bearing3
403M7184Bolt3M8 X 20
522H897Set Screw11/4" X 1/4"
6JD8554Eccentric Locking Collar3
7AM141407Drive Sprocket1(SUB FOR AM135208)
8R294DNShaft Key1
9AM38206Chain Sprocket1
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTY SERIAL NO.REMARKS
1022H817Set Screw23/8" X 3/4"
11AM121965Roller Chain1
1226H82Shaft Key11/4" X 7/8"
1319M7139Cap Screw6M8 X 20
1414M7396Lock Nut9M8
 

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54" Blower Gear set? Help?

The small drive gear is welded to the shaft. There are a couple of locking collars holding it in position. Set screws lock the collars to the shaft.


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I am thinking your sprockets aren't in the proper alignment or tension, or both, that is why the chain is jumping them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This what you want?

Yessereeee-Bob!

This could get expensive. John Deere guy will be here later and I hope to get a complete assessment based upon what I just found out here.... Now I can ask the right questions.
 

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This what you want?

Yessereeee-Bob!

This could get expensive. John Deere guy will be here later and I hope to get a complete assessment based upon what I just found out here.... Now I can ask the right questions.
Green farm parts has all the sockets, chains, locking collars, bearings etc. I did mine two years ago and it was not that expensive, The large sprocket was the most expensive part and it was not the greatest fit. I had a machinist down the street make me a new sprocket that fit the drive shaft properly.. Remember that adjuster can move side to side plus back and forth and make the alignment go out of whack, it is critical to keep it in line when tightening the adjuster down.. Franks post on the blower impeller change out made this project very easy to do... And you are only doing part of the work... You will have no trouble at all as long as you understand the direction the locking collars go to tighten and loosen... A new chain may also be one piece and not have a master link, mine did not have the link so you need to put the chain on the small sprocket before you slide the small drive shaft back on the adjuster.. Or have a link installed.. Also about two hours of work total the first time if you don't run into any problems.. I bet I could change that all out in less than a hour now.. Pretty simple operation.

Good luck HM
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Green farm parts has all the sockets, chains, locking collars, bearings etc. I did mine two years ago and it was not that expensive, The large sprocket was the most expensive part and it was not the greatest fit. I had a machinist down the street make me a new sprocket that fit the drive shaft properly.. Remember that adjuster can move side to side plus back and forth and make the alignment go out of whack, it is critical to keep it in line when tightening the adjuster down.. Franks post on the blower impeller change out made this project very easy to do... And you are only doing part of the work... You will have no trouble at all as long as you understand the direction the locking collars go to tighten and loosen... A new chain may also be one piece and not have a master link, mine did not have the link so you need to put the chain on the small sprocket before you slide the small drive shaft back on the adjuster.. Or have a link installed.. Also about two hours of work total the first time if you don't run into any problems.. I bet I could change that all out in less than a hour now.. Pretty simple operation.

Good luck HM
Great stuff! This is my first season with a new chain and it has a master link. I'm of the opinion it may just be an alignment issue. Going to have all the bearings checked today also. This is my Octopus week and I need to be in eight places at once. Issue after Issue and it never stops.
 

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Great stuff! This is my first season with a new chain and it has a master link. I'm of the opinion it may just be an alignment issue. Going to have all the bearings checked today also. This is my Octopus week and I need to be in eight places at once. Issue after Issue and it never stops.
Good luck and I hope it is as easy as an alignment issue for you.. It can only get better HM.. Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update

Local JD Tech came just now and we went through the blower by the numbers..... The Ball Bearing Bearing that supports the Blower Fan is shot... You can hear it grinding away as well as all the free-play. Going to call Green Farm Parts in the AM to order three new Ball Bearing Bearings and the two Chain Sprockets. After Five years of loyal service its needs the attention of a rebuild. As I have most or all of the tools here..... the tech will help me through the process of rebuilding it. Kool or what.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just ordered the 3 Bearings and a Gear Set from Green Farm Parts. Got a Discount for mentioning GTT and Free Shipping... Toot-Toot!!! My local JD dealer has always said NO! for any discount I inquired about. (Small Town)
 

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Just ordered the 3 Bearings and a Gear Set from Green Farm Parts. Got a Discount for mentioning GTT and Free Shipping... Toot-Toot!!! My local JD dealer has always said NO! for any discount I inquired about. (Small Town)
You'll breeze right thru this HM. Here is my bearing, the same bearing you need to change and it had about 2 hours on it when I changed it out..

View attachment 304913 View attachment 304921 View attachment 304929
notice the wear on the flange and abuse on the bearing? The drive shaft was turning inside the bearing race, right from the factory, locking collar was not locked down and loose, The impeller was also right against the flange and obviously out of angle.. I posted a long version of this a couple years ago, it was the noise that made me take the blower apart, like rocks in the blower. So I changed every bearing, flange, sprocket, collar and chain. I wasn't taking any chances like a breakdown during a storm! Good luck HM..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You'll breeze right thru this HM. Here is my bearing, the same bearing you need to change and it had about 2 hours on it when I changed it out..


notice the wear on the flange and abuse on the bearing? The drive shaft was turning inside the bearing race, right from the factory, locking collar was not locked down and loose, The impeller was also right against the flange and obviously out of angle.. I posted a long version of this a couple years ago, it was the noise that made me take the blower apart, like rocks in the blower. So I changed every bearing, flange, sprocket, collar and chain. I wasn't taking any chances like a breakdown during a storm! Good luck HM..
Wow! My blower has been at it for almost 5 full seasons now. Flawless performance. Some storms it performed above the call of duty. Actually looking forward to doing the job. First time getting into the guts here. Looks simple enough.... :flag_of_truce:
 

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You'll breeze right thru this HM. Here is my bearing, the same bearing you need to change and it had about 2 hours on it when I changed it out..

View attachment 304913 View attachment 304921 View attachment 304929
notice the wear on the flange and abuse on the bearing? The drive shaft was turning inside the bearing race, right from the factory, locking collar was not locked down and loose, The impeller was also right against the flange and obviously out of angle.. I posted a long version of this a couple years ago, it was the noise that made me take the blower apart, like rocks in the blower. So I changed every bearing, flange, sprocket, collar and chain. I wasn't taking any chances like a breakdown during a storm! Good luck HM..
I see why that bearing went bad........ it says china on it. There are plenty of postings on this site having bad issues with bearings source from china. Buy American.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update

Got the repair/replacement parts in today. So, the blower comes apart except for the bearings. Never seen this type before so it caught me off guard. Had my neighbor help me out there... no problem. The Bad. the Large Gear that turns the Impeller and Auger had broken free from the blower housing. The bearing was fine although. Tomorrow I need to bring the blower housing down to the local Welding/Fab shop and have a new back support welded in. Don't exactly know how the back of the blower cracked and the bearing started spinning free. Keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Photo

Here is a photo of the damage. The Bearing Housing broke away from the blower..... Took the blower to a megga welding fabrication shop and they wouldn't work on it because of the thin metal here. They recommended an automotive shop that does quite a bit of manufacturing. They said they have done quite a few of these repairs to the John Deere Housing. Apparently the thin metal back there is the issue.
 

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Here is a photo of the damage. The Bearing Housing broke away from the blower..... Took the blower to a megga welding fabrication shop and they wouldn't work on it because of the thin metal here. They recommended an automotive shop that does quite a bit of manufacturing. They said they have done quite a few of these repairs to the John Deere Housing. Apparently the thin metal back there is the issue.
Ouch, but I don't think it's that bad of a repair for a good fabricator/machinist. Make a new plate and bolt or weld the new plate right on the back side, but have the flange and bearing ready to go so the shaft will line up properly before it is attached for good. Those Bearings are strange in the fact they just sit inside the flanges.. The bulkhead unit is particularly useful as it allows the bearing to run true on the drive shaft before you tighten down the retaining nuts. Good luck HM... I just hope the rest of the steel in that area isn't fatigued and ready to fail too.. This is my exact issue with those eccentric sprockets, (not the bearing), to much fatigue on the steel in that small area. Most of us know when you adjust the chain there can be tight spots turn the sprocket then loose,, why? eccentric sprockets and that is an issue eventually. You got a lot going on in one spot on that bulkhead. Kind of a bad design in my opinion.. Jeff
 

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Here is a photo of the damage. The Bearing Housing broke away from the blower..... Took the blower to a megga welding fabrication shop and they wouldn't work on it because of the thin metal here. They recommended an automotive shop that does quite a bit of manufacturing. They said they have done quite a few of these repairs to the John Deere Housing. Apparently the thin metal back there is the issue.
You could cut a piece of 1/8" steel plate just smaller than the inside diameter of the fan housing. Either weld it or bolt it in place using hardened carriage bolts and prevailing torque nuts. The fan position is adjustable at the drive hub so there should be no problem with interference. Then bolt the bearing flange to the reinforcing plate and you should be good to go.

You can probably get 56Fordguy out to handle it as well. He's an expert at providing creative solutions and driving hours on end to get there...........just a thought. :dunno:
 

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Ouch, but I don't think it's that bad of a repair for a good fabricator/machinist. Make a new plate and bolt or weld the new plate right on the back side, but have the flange and bearing ready to go so the shaft will line up properly before it is attached for good. Those Bearings are strange in the fact they just sit inside the flanges.. The bulkhead unit is particularly useful as it allows the bearing to run true on the drive shaft before you tighten down the retaining nuts. Good luck HM... I just hope the rest of the steel in that area isn't fatigued and ready to fail too.. This is my exact issue with those eccentric sprockets, (not the bearing), to much fatigue on the steel in that small area. Most of us know when you adjust the chain there can be tight spots turn the sprocket then loose,, why? eccentric sprockets and that is an issue eventually. You got a lot going on in one spot on that bulkhead. Kind of a bad design in my opinion.. Jeff
As of now, the Blower is repaired and I'll pick it up and start installing everything tomorrow. Good advice about to let the bearings run true before tightening them down.

You could cut a piece of 1/8" steel plate just smaller than the inside diameter of the fan housing. Either weld it or bolt it in place using hardened carriage bolts and prevailing torque nuts. The fan position is adjustable at the drive hub so there should be no problem with interference. Then bolt the bearing flange to the reinforcing plate and you should be good to go. The place I brought it too said that they have down quite a few of these blower repairs. Tomorrow will tell. He mentioned welding in a plate back there. Not sure about the front.

You can probably get 56Fordguy out to handle it as well. He's an expert at providing creative solutions and driving hours on end to get there...........just a thought. :dunno:
 
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