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UN-boxed my new blade yesterday, and noticed that it only has 1 "J" pin on the right side. I'm thinking it should have one on the left side as well. Am I wrong in thinking that. My installation hit a snag because no front attaching kit came with it, so will be about next Wednesday before I get the parts in for that. 1129141313-00.jpg 1129141313-01.jpg
 

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Near as I can tell, only one.

MP34894________UN10AUG04.gif

1AM131473Support1
(SUB FOR AM121678)
2S2827MExtension Spring2
324H1658Washer1
21/32" X 1" X 0.060"
4M91079Compression Spring1
511M7021Cotter Pin1
4 X 25 mm
6M123474Pin Fastener1
7M96959Shaft1
PIVOT
811M7087Cotter Pin2
4 X 40 mm
 

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Mine came with (2) installed.
 

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Mine only came with one pin. I doubt I'll ever even use that. That pin locks the blade so that the trip function doesn't work. I guess if you are using your blade for dirt it would get used but I can't see any reason for me to ever use it. I just push snow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for clearing that up for me. I thought a piece was missing. I'll have to tell the dealership that I don't need the one he ordered today.
Mine only came with one pin. I doubt I'll ever even use that. That pin locks the blade so that the trip function doesn't work. I guess if you are using your blade for dirt it would get used but I can't see any reason for me to ever use it. I just push snow.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Gizmo2, where do you find the parts assembly drawings like that one?
 

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Plow Trip Pins

You definately want the plow to be able to spring forward and "TRIP" when you encounter something and it doesn't take much. I always position my (2) J pins as far away from the holes as possible as I have had the pins seat themselves when you are banging into snow piles. I fractured my thumb and my wrist when I accidentally hit something and the plow did not trip. I make it a habit to check mine each time I get on to plow.:slap-yourself-emoti

When that happened, the tractor stopped so abruptly that my knees slammed into the back edges of the hood slamming the entire hood assembly forward and I sheared all of the hood mounting bolts off inside the hood where it attaches to the hood mounting and pivot bracket. That one incident ended up costing me about $12,000 in medical bills and about $350 in tractor repair bills. Live and learn.:think:

And of course, I was "helping a neighbor" in her driveway but I never told her because she would have felt terrible. Her driveway is very cracked and crumbling and I will tell you it didn't take much for that abrupt stop to not only really hurt, but damage my pride as well.:thumbup1gif:

Wearing that cast on my wrist and arm for 8 weeks made plowing more difficult, but it was one of those incidents where it happened so quickly you are so surprised and not really sure what happened at first. Definately keep that plow trip mechanism so it will function. Block the pin out if necessary.
 

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You definately want the plow to be able to spring forward and "TRIP" when you encounter something and it doesn't take much. I always position my (2) J pins as far away from the holes as possible as I have had the pins seat themselves when you are banging into snow piles. I fractured my thumb and my wrist when I accidentally hit something and the plow did not trip. I make it a habit to check mine each time I get on to plow.:slap-yourself-emoti

When that happened, the tractor stopped so abruptly that my knees slammed into the back edges of the hood slamming the entire hood assembly forward and I sheared all of the hood mounting bolts off inside the hood where it attaches to the hood mounting and pivot bracket. That one incident ended up costing me about $12,000 in medical bills and about $350 in tractor repair bills. Live and learn.:think:

And of course, I was "helping a neighbor" in her driveway but I never told her because she would have felt terrible. Her driveway is very cracked and crumbling and I will tell you it didn't take much for that abrupt stop to not only really hurt, but damage my pride as well.:thumbup1gif:

Wearing that cast on my wrist and arm for 8 weeks made plowing more difficult, but it was one of those incidents where it happened so quickly you are so surprised and not really sure what happened at first. Definately keep that plow trip mechanism so it will function. Block the pin out if necessary.
Glad to hear your OK now it could have been worse. Hate to say this but sounds like you may have been going faster than you needed to go . Not saying you was !

Over the years I have hit several things and came close to being hurt. Each time I was going way faster than needed.
Each time I was in High range and pushing trying to get done plus not in 4wd. Yes I still plow in high range but at a slower speed .
Yesterday morning I hit a patch job on my bil asphalt drive. It stopped me right now. If I had been faster there would have been some damage.
I haven't unlocked my blade since I put the larger cutting edge knowing I won't bend the blade ,but still remembering I can hurt my tractor or myself.
Since getting the new attaching pieces for the 54 blade I may try not using the locking pin this year.
 

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Rubber Plow Edge, A Great Way to Plow!

UN-boxed my new blade yesterday, and noticed that it only has 1 "J" pin on the right side. I'm thinking it should have one on the left side as well. Am I wrong in thinking that. My installation hit a snag because no front attaching kit came with it, so will be about next Wednesday before I get the parts in for that.
I would encourage you to install a rubber plow edge on your new plow, whether you get it from Deere or make one yourself. Deere calls it a "squeege" which is mounted between the plow and the metal "strap", which most would call a scraper edge.

Here are pictures of my plow with the rubber edge and also the material I use to make my own, which is much more cost effective than buying it from Deere. Deere gets around $80 for a 4'6" piece and I buy 8' of it locally for about $25 and simply drill my own holes.

DSC01590.jpg DSC01591.jpg DSC01592.jpg DSC01593.jpg

The material I buy is the same thickness but the plow edge I make is 1" taller meaning it lasts longer. I plowed 37 times last year and as many as 12 driveways and 1.5 miles of private road EACH TIME I PLOWED and my rubber edge lasted all season, so it is tough.:nunu:

I also encourage you to replace all of the factory plow scraper edge hardware with Stainless Hardware as the road salt, etc corrode the bolts usually resulting in breaking them off when taking it apart to install a new metal "strap" or a "squeege" (these are Deere's terms for these items). I take it apart with an electric impact gun for speed and used to break the old bolts often while I have never had any problems with the stainless hardware failing.

The plow cleans the surface very nicely and does not bounce, scrape or bang around like it normally would. I wouldn't plow without the rubber edge now as it works so well and cleans so nice. Plus when you push off onto a grass surface, the rubber helps not tear up the lawn.:thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif:

As shown in the pictures, I am replacing the rubber edge on my plow today after an entire season of use. There is still enough to protect the plow and serve as a squeege but it will need to be replaced this season so I am doing that replacement today. The short piece shown in the photo's is because my 54" plow is now 88" wide as I welded two plows together. The short piece in the picture was what was left when I purchased two squeeges from Deere and had to cut one because of my plow's new "custom size". The short piece is actually what Deere sells in the 54" length.

In my opinion, this is the best way to plow and I have used no edge, the "poly" edge and the rubber squeege and like the rubber edge the very best.:thumbup1gif:
 

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I haven't unlocked my blade since I put the larger cutting edge knowing I won't bend the blade ,but still remembering I can hurt my tractor or myself.
Since getting the new attaching pieces for the 54 blade I may try not using the locking pin this year.
I don't understand why you WOULD use the locking pins for pushing snow. What's the advantage? Plowing snow with the trip pins locked in is not only unnecessary, but is simply asking for trouble.

I have never fully tripped my plow from pushing very wet and heavy snow or frankly anytime OTHER than when it hit an edge or similar obstruction under the snow, which is precisely when you want the springs to trip the plow forward.

My tractor (455) does not have a 2 speed Hydro so I was plowing at about 4 mph when my incident happened as I was running about 1/2 of the fully depressed pedal speed. But even at that speed, when you stop IMMEDIATELY, it is still a problem.

And I had only moved forward about 10 feet after a complete stop as I was plowing in a tight area of the driveway which requires forward and reverse direction changes, so there was no way the speed was "excessive".
 

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I would encourage you to install a rubber plow edge on your new plow, whether you get it from Deere or make one yourself. Deere calls it a "squeege" which is mounted between the plow and the metal "strap", which most would call a scraper edge.

Here are pictures of my plow with the rubber edge and also the material I use to make my own, which is much more cost effective than buying it from Deere. Deere gets around $80 for a 4'6" piece and I buy 8' of it locally for about $25 and simply drill my own holes.

View attachment 36037 View attachment 36038 View attachment 36039 View attachment 36040

The material I buy is the same thickness but the plow edge I make is 1" taller meaning it lasts longer. I plowed 37 times last year and as many as 12 driveways and 1.5 miles of private road EACH TIME I PLOWED and my rubber edge lasted all season, so it is tough.:nunu:

I also encourage you to replace all of the factory plow scraper edge hardware with Stainless Hardware as the road salt, etc corrode the bolts usually resulting in breaking them off when taking it apart to install a new metal "strap" or a "squeege" (these are Deere's terms for these items). I take it apart with an electric impact gun for speed and used to break the old bolts often while I have never had any problems with the stainless hardware failing.

The plow cleans the surface very nicely and does not bounce, scrape or bang around like it normally would. I wouldn't plow without the rubber edge now as it works so well and cleans so nice. Plus when you push off onto a grass surface, the rubber helps not tear up the lawn.:thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif:

As shown in the pictures, I am replacing the rubber edge on my plow today after an entire season of use. There is still enough to protect the plow and serve as a squeege but it will need to be replaced this season so I am doing that replacement today. The short piece shown in the photo's is because my 54" plow is now 88" wide as I welded two plows together. The short piece in the picture was what was left when I purchased two squeeges from Deere and had to cut one because of my plow's new "custom size". The short piece is actually what Deere sells in the 54" length.

In my opinion, this is the best way to plow and I have used no edge, the "poly" edge and the rubber squeege and like the rubber edge the very best.:thumbup1gif:
Where did you buy the material at?
 

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Adding my 2 cents to the mix. Mine which I received just a months ago, also only came with only a right hand J hook. I was also surprised. I'm wondering if any members have pushed dirt with only one hook in place and if any adverse affect from pushing the way. With offset stresses ?
 

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I don't understand why you WOULD use the locking pins for pushing snow. What's the advantage? Plowing snow with the trip pins locked in is not only unnecessary, but is simply asking for trouble.

I have never fully tripped my plow from pushing very wet and heavy snow or frankly anytime OTHER than when it hit an edge or similar obstruction under the snow, which is precisely when you want the springs to trip the plow forward.

My tractor (455) does not have a 2 speed Hydro so I was plowing at about 4 mph when my incident happened as I was running about 1/2 of the fully depressed pedal speed. But even at that speed, when you stop IMMEDIATELY, it is still a problem.

And I had only moved forward about 10 feet after a complete stop as I was plowing in a tight area of the driveway which requires forward and reverse direction changes, so there was no way the speed was "excessive".
Doesn't sound like you very going to fast.
As for plowing with blade locked, the frt quick hitch on 2305 and 1026r the spring seemed weak . I have a cutting edge off a large snow blade and maybe it's causing me to having the blade to flip forward all the time. That is why I always run with pin in place.
 

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Doesn't sound like you very going to fast.
As for plowing with blade locked, the frt quick hitch on 2305 and 1026r the spring seemed weak . I have a cutting edge off a large snow blade and maybe it's causing me to having the blade to flip forward all the time. That is why I always run with pin in place.
Springs getting week, I need to adjust the springs on our Meyer EVERY year.
 

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I would encourage you to install a rubber plow edge on your new plow, whether you get it from Deere or make one yourself. Deere calls it a "squeege" which is mounted between the plow and the metal "strap", which most would call a scraper edge.
Another source for a squeegee edge if you have a 54 blade:

Artilian 54 Plow Products
 

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Where did you buy the material at?
Back when I had a front blade I bought one of the heavy stall mats ($40 ish) from tractor supply for a squeegee. The mat is like 4'x6' so you will have plenty left over for future uses.


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