In my particular instance (1025R w/ auto connect) this adjustment fixed my auto connect problem. My auto connect was too high to make connection to the deck stub so the only way I could see to lower the entire mechanism was to lower the turn buckles for the side to side height adjustment. I did so and it worked out perfectly. My dealer did not set it up correctly and I caught it at the 50 hr. service that I did when the deck was being replaced.
In your situation I'd advise to try it but make sure you count the turns of adjustment so you can put it back to where it was if things don't work out. Good luck.
P.S. You definitely need to adjust the side to side to come closer to even with the discharge side a bit higher than the closed side. That may not make a difference in the auto connect as you are only changing one side but it also could be enough to tweak yourself out of adjustment to the auto connect system. It is easy enough to adjust it back to connecting position as you can see the two connecting parts close up when you do the drive over, just as your front tractor tires drop off the front of the deck stop your tractor, set your parking brake and turn off the tractor. Get off the tractor and look at the connecting parts for alignment. If you are off to far you can then make equal adjustments to each side to match up the connecting parts so the connection is made. It took me two times to get it correctly aligned. I'm sure you can do it, its just psychics, geometry and a bit of good old Kentucky wind-age.:good2:
When the pto coupler is aligned for quick attach the body of the deck should be on the ground, so the adjusters for when the deck is hanging in the cutting position should have no effect on the coupling alignment unless you have one or both cranked up so high that the deck won't lay on the ground in the install position.
Thanks for all of your feedback. Everything makes sense. The mower has not been cutting great. When it cuts, it misses spots. I did sharpen the blades, but no improvement. Then I measured from the ground to the bottom of the blade to find out one blade was one inch higher than the other. I will make some adjustments and hopefully the cut will improve.
John Deere sells a measurement tool that works well for measuring the distance from the ground to the blade edge. For me, this made the job a lot easier. I can't remember the details (in the manual), but the blades should also be slightly canted from front to rear as well as being level side to side.
With this tool, I set my MMM on the tractor and my Honda power mower to exactly the same cutting height. That way, when I touch up the areas the tractor can't get into, you can't tell that 2 different mowers were used.
When you level the deck, Deere says to have it level front to back and side to side. If you want a bit cleaner cut, use the trick most of the turf pros use, tip the deck 3/16 to 1/4" down in the front, this is called "tip-in". This makes the leading edge of the blade the only cutting edge so that the grass blade is only cut once as the mower passes over. This lessens fraying and bruising of the end and will keep the lawn greener and healthier. It also lessens the HP needed to run the mower, as such the tip speed will stay high in thicker sections of turf.
I've attached the instruction manuals that detail leveling the deck and those that pertain to the autocoupler driveshaft installation. I'd suggest you also add a 3/8" fine thread nut to each of the center eyelet bolts to serve as locking nuts once you have completed the leveling. This will prevent the adjustment from being disturbed if for some reason you have to remove the autoconnect driveshaft carriage. Also, mark with permanent marker which is left and which is right.