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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know the process of removing the auger blades and gearbox from housing. Im looking to fix up some rust etc on the interior sections and need the augers out but I m hoping I don't have to remove anything from the shaft and drive from the rear. Thanks in advance.
 

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Depends if you have the Open Chain Drive or the Enclosed Chain Drive. With the Enclosed, you can just pull the Auger assembly out, I have not had any luck re-installing it though and had had to remove the Chain drive box. With the Open Chain Drive, you have to remove the Large Chain Drive sprocket and it can be rusted on quite bad. Behind the Sprocket you have to release the Lock Collar on the bearing (Not Used with the Enclosed Drive Box) and probably remove the bearing also. I would just bite the bullet and remove the rear assembly and use plenty of Anti-Sieze on the shafts.
 
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Anyone know the process of removing the auger blades and gearbox from housing. Im looking to fix up some rust etc on the interior sections and need the augers out but I m hoping I don't have to remove anything from the shaft and drive from the rear. Thanks in advance.
Depending on age of the unit, you may want to remove all from any shaft and slop it all up with anti seize before it is seized solid. Roil PITA once it is seized... ask me how I know.

john Deere 1025R
loader
backhoe
47 in tiller
47 blower
5ft landscape rake
10 KW pto generator
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
 
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Depends if you have the Open Chain Drive or the Enclosed Chain Drive. With the Enclosed, you can just pull the Auger assembly out, I have not had any luck re-installing it though and had had to remove the Chain drive box. With the Open Chain Drive, you have to remove the Large Chain Drive sprocket and it can be rusted on quite bad. Behind the Sprocket you have to release the Lock Collar on the bearing (Not Used with the Enclosed Drive Box) and probably remove the bearing also. I would just bite the bullet and remove the rear assembly and use plenty of Anti-Sieze on the shafts.
That's a bit disappointing to hear as I was hopeful once the chain case was installed you could simply pull the front drive and reinsert it without disassembling anything on the rear. Realizing of course that alignment would be critical.
 
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Alignment and keeping the 1/4"x1/4" key in place was always my issue, I just found it easier to remove the enclosed chain drive I installed on my blower. I am physically disabled so that might not be an issue for you younger folks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
has anyone tried to just remove the auger from the front and leave the enclosed case alone? or is that not possible. Just trying to avoid having to remove everything.
 

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It appears Sundancer268 has tried that very thing.
 
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has anyone tried to just remove the auger from the front and leave the enclosed case alone? or is that not possible. Just trying to avoid having to remove everything.
It should work. Just be sure upon reassembly to set the key on the high point. If it doesn't work it is only 4 bolts. I think I got mine back in the second time without disassembly.

john Deere 1025R
loader
backhoe
47 in tiller
47 blower
5ft landscape rake
10 KW pto generator
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’m gonna work on it today. Last time I did this I had the open chain case etc. which was a pain to reassemble on my own. Then realign the chain etc.
 

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I’m gonna work on it today. Last time I did this I had the open chain case etc. which was a pain to reassemble on my own. Then realign the chain etc.
Even if you have to loosen the four bolts on the chain case to allow the auger shaft to slide in easily, that is nothing compared to the disassembly/assembly required when working with the open chain and sprockets.
 
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moved to proper blower chain case thread..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Ok do bern removing bolts etc. can’t get auger n shaft apart from seeker unit in rear. Can’t get the key which is locked in out. Can hardly get to it. Not sure what I’m missing besides probably the correct tool So I just zoomed in on the pics does the key go into hex nut to lock in or is that the end of it I almost seem to see a small gap between the key n the hex piece on the impeller I’m hesitant to smack it or pry it with a screw driver to pop it out
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Ok do bern removing bolts etc. can’t get auger n shaft apart from seeker unit in rear. Can’t get the key which is locked in out. Can hardly get to it. Not sure what I’m missing besides probably the correct tool So I just zoomed in on the pics does the key go into hex nut to lock in or is that the end of it I almost seem to see a small gap between the key n the hex piece on the impeller I’m hesitant to smack it or pry it with a screw driver to pop it out
The key locks these two parts together. The impeller is supposed to spin freely on the shaft when the shear bolt is removed.

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I have the sheer bolt out. So the plastic blade does not spin freely on the shaft. It’s still moving with the auger
That probably means the bushing inside the plastic impeller is rusted / seized to the impeller shaft. That is a very common problem. A lot of folks have had to resort to cutting the impeller off the shaft.

First step would be to spray a bit of penetrating oil in there and let it soak. The problem is it's next to impossible to get anything in the rear half of the bushing.
 

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That probably means the bushing inside the plastic impeller is rusted / seized to the impeller shaft. That is a very common problem. A lot of folks have had to resort to cutting the impeller off the shaft.

First step would be to spray a bit of penetrating oil in there and let it soak. The problem is it's next to impossible to get anything in the rear half of the bushing.
Just move right to cutting it off. It is probable seized solid. Try. But not to awfully hard. Doubt you will be lucky, but stranger things have happened.

john Deere 1025R
loader
backhoe
47 in tiller
47 blower
5ft landscape rake
10 KW pto generator
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
 

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You need to remove the sprocket and bearing lock collar as stated in post #2. Then remove the auger/impeller as an assembly. Once out, stand the unit up with the impeller on top. Soak the shaft and impeller sleeve with Kroil or PB Blaster. Keep applying periodically. After 12 hours or so, give it a try. At that time, you can also try a heat gun on the impeller or shaft. The idea is that heat will pull the oil in like sweating a pipe. 150 or 175 degrees should do it. Not sure at what point the impeller could melt so you will have exercise caution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok. So here's the rub now. I called dealer to ask about removing the key and they specifically stated that the impeller fan moves with the auger even if the shear bolt is removed and the parts separated. Doesn't seem to make sense. The blower is only a year old and I wanted to clean up the rust on the inside housing that was abused last year. So it sounds like there's a difference on something here. Am I missing something. Im probably the weakest link in this discussion.
 

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Ok. So here's the rub now. I called dealer to ask about removing the key and they specifically stated that the impeller fan moves with the auger even if the shear bolt is removed and the parts separated. Doesn't seem to make sense. The blower is only a year old and I wanted to clean up the rust on the inside housing that was abused last year. So it sounds like there's a difference on something here. Am I missing something. Im probably the weakest link in this discussion.
Either the dealer didn't understand your question or they have no idea how the snow blower works. See diagram below.

The impeller is only coupled to the bevel gear box shaft by way of #9. #9 is keyed to the shaft as is the rear sprocket #4. #9 in turn drives the impeller by way of #8 engaging the hex portion of the impeller. Some folks were having problems with #9 cracking if the impeller takes a good hit.

That is why when shear bolt #23 is removed the impeller will spin freely on the bevel gear box shaft.

That is until the metal bushing inside the impeller rusts and seizes itself solid to the bevel gear box shaft. JD should have really put a zerk fitting in this area to keep it lubed. Unless the operator removes the shear bolt at the end of each season and sprays some lube down in there and then spins the impeller, it can become seized solid in just a couple seasons.

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah I think I didn’t explain it correctly to dealer. So it seems it’s rusted on there tight. I sprayed it a few times w liquid wrench maybe overnight an angel will come n knock it loose
 
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