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Discussion Starter #1
So, I've had the snow blower for two years (this will be going into the third season), but in reading stuff here I realized that I hadn't been lubing it properly, so after a sloppy wet mess of a storm were I had the chain jump off I decided it was (far past) time to properly lube everything.

Gear oil replaced & all grease fittings on all shafts/joints back to the pto - done.

I was just using gear oil on the chain prior to this, so I picked up some proper chain lube. Go to put the chain back on and tension it properly, and it seems like there may be a "kinked" link, but after a proper lubing up and many rotations all seemed well. To be on the safe side I picked up a new chain to have on hand.

Next, we function tested - all seemed well. (Had the SIL sit on it and run the pto while I went around and looked at everything with a flashlight).

So, we just had another light, but sloppy storm. I had planned on just scraping the front asphalt with the blade, but it turned out to be freezing up by the time I got to it, so ended up doing some scraping and using the blower to move the piles. This worked out well. Given that it looked like at least a week before we got more snow, and what was left in the other areas could stay if need be, I decided to "stress test" the blower and see what may break before the next storm.

It went well, no problems. However, the chain, now properly lubed and tensioned, just sounded way too loud for my tastes, so I have decided to just replace it with the new one.

I had noticed that there was no master link on the old one - or at least none I found. Nor is there one on the new one.

Am I to assume that I have to disassemble the entire damn thing in order to replace the chain? If so, should I just consider cutting the old one off, then cutting the new one and installing it with a master link?
 

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With your issue of the chain jumping I’d say the tension may be off. Assuming that the sprockets are fine and don’t look like shark fins. If there is a kink in one of the links it’s best to replace the chain. I use spray chain wax like I would on dirt bikes. I feel like it helps against corrosion, lasts longer and helps with noise.

Have you ever replaced the carrier bearings for the driveshaft? Mine blew apart but even before that it was very noise during operation.
 

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I had noticed that there was no master link on the old one - or at least none I found. Nor is there one on the new one.

Am I to assume that I have to disassemble the entire damn thing in order to replace the chain? If so, should I just consider cutting the old one off, then cutting the new one and installing it with a master link?
Yes. You have to remove the bracket on the left side so you can remove the chain from the small sprocket. Once loosened it should slip off the larger sprocket.

Over the summer I bought a 10-foot length of chain for around $20 and a pack of master links and made myself an exact replacement chain. For that price I have enough for 4-5 replacements. I figured if mine ever breaks in the middle of a storm replacing it with one with a master link will be MUCH easier.
 

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With your issue of the chain jumping I’d say the tension may be off. Assuming that the sprockets are fine and don’t look like shark fins. If there is a kink in one of the links it’s best to replace the chain. I use spray chain wax like I would on dirt bikes. I feel like it helps against corrosion, lasts longer and helps with noise.
I've tried that Chain Wax and wasn't really impressed with it. Back when I used to race Motocross and Hare Scrambles the best lube was Chain-Kote. It went on dark and sticky and really stuck to the chain. Unfortunately somewhere along the line they stopped making it.

So far the best lube I've found for the snow blower chain is the BelRay chain lube. It goes on a bit bubbly and they dries with a white-ish color and absolutely does not fling off. I've been using it for 2-3 seasons now. I just wish it came it bigger cans.



The absolute WORST stuff you can use if the JD Chain and Cable lube. That crap is like water and it just flings off and creates a huge mess all over the equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
huh. I have notifications turned on, but am not getting emails when folks post, hence the delay...

I'm away atm, so can't look at it, but I did go over it a bit more last night. It looks like I need to actually cut the chain off, as it seems like the drive shaft is carried both front and back.

The more interesting thing of note is that it seems the sprockets are not aligned. At first as I was dickering around with it I thought maybe I was just imagining it, however, after going over it again last night, it seems the driven gear is sitting a bit higher/out than the drive gear. I loosened it, thinking maybe I could move it down/in a bit, but it's in as far as it will go.

As for noise, it very much sounds like chain slap, and this mostly goes away under load.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Yes. You have to remove the bracket on the left side so you can remove the chain from the small sprocket. Once loosened it should slip off the larger sprocket.

Over the summer I bought a 10-foot length of chain for around $20 and a pack of master links and made myself an exact replacement chain. For that price I have enough for 4-5 replacements. I figured if mine ever breaks in the middle of a storm replacing it with one with a master link will be MUCH easier.
This is 0.400 chain right? Where did you get the chain and links?
 

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With your issue of the chain jumping I’d say the tension may be off. Assuming that the sprockets are fine and don’t look like shark fins. If there is a kink in one of the links it’s best to replace the chain. I use spray chain wax like I would on dirt bikes. I feel like it helps against corrosion, lasts longer and helps with noise.

Have you ever replaced the carrier bearings for the driveshaft? Mine blew apart but even before that it was very noise during operation.
I use Chain Wax as well on my Frontier blower chain. Good stuff.:good2:
 

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These buggers are noisy. I have no idea why JD doesn't have master links on the chains and yes they are hard to adjust with the eccentric sprockets JD installs. You will have to remove the entire mess to change it out unless you break the chain and do what Jay did buy a chain and use the master links..
I also had my bearings junk day one and decided as Frank did change out the impeller to steel and at that time to change out all the drive bearings while it was apart.. I have no idea why JD produces such a noisy blower.. I also had a neighbor machine a new large drive sprocket to take the place of the junk it came with,, Unfortunately the small drive sprocket is welded on the shaft and it too is eccentric??????? Once you figure out how to adjust them so you have a happy medium, you'll be good to go. Just make sure the two sprockets are lined up properly before you install the chain.. I did mine by moving the adjustment side right into the large sprocket so they fit together perfectly and tightened the large sprocket down. I installed the new chain I bought from JD (without a master link) and now the blower is somewhat quiet but it will never sound like my Berco… If the chain breaks I will head to my nearest Equipment dealer (2 miles away) and get the proper chain with a master link.. I also use motocross chain lube as I had a case of it from my dirt bike days. It's still on the chain when I do the fall tune up so I know it works and I don't have to adjust the chain all winter and we usually get a lot of snow here in the northeast. Set your blower up once properly and you will be a happy man, forget the noise, it will always be there, it's the nature of the beast.. Good luck.
Just a pic of how I do my fall blower tune up.
 

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Seeing a lot of issues lately with some guys snow throwers.. i find it very odd being so new. Ive used my 2016 blower 2 years now and have had no issues. I have not lubed the chain at all. Seems odd. All i do is hit my whole housing with wd40 a couple time over the winter season to help slip-slide the snow out of it. Thing runs like new.


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I had a Frontier snowblower on the 2305.

I wanted to paint it powder puff pink.

It would break at the slightest hint of anything but soft powder.

If I were to ever need another snow blower, I would be looking at other options.
 

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Seeing a lot of issues lately with some guys snow throwers.. i find it very odd being so new. Ive used my 2016 blower 2 years now and have had no issues. I have not lubed the chain at all. Seems odd. All i do is hit my whole housing with wd40 a couple time over the winter season to help slip-slide the snow out of it. Thing runs like new.
At your earliest opportunity I would recommending getting some good chain lube and giving it a shot. Chains and sprockets need lubrication or else they will wear very quickly. Unlike the auger sprocket on a 3PH snow blower, the impeller drive sprocket on the 47" and 54" blowers run at 2100 RPM.
 

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At your earliest opportunity I would recommending getting some good chain lube and giving it a shot. Chains and sprockets need lubrication or else they will wear very quickly. Unlike the auger sprocket on a 3PH snow blower, the impeller drive sprocket on the 47" and 54" blowers run at 2100 RPM.
I agree WD40 is not really a lubricant it evaporates in short order. A very long time ago I had this 72 Ford Van and it had a idler arm bearing in a pulley for the fan belt to keep it tight. Got this brain storm with my new can of WD40 and started spraying it around to protect my moving parts! Saw that bearing and said hey it could use some to! So I sprayed it on it closed the hood and headed into town got about 6 miles from home and heard this noise under the hood squealing loud and pulled over to see what it was. That bearing froze up solid the WD40 ruined the grease in it! I got to town pulled out my tools at the auto shop and eliminated the Idler Arm and went with a shorter belt. Never again did I ever use that stuff that way again. If you want just to spray stuff use JDs Lube called Fluid Film it will stay there for a long time but will collect dirt if dusty out. I spray moving parts on my tractor and it is still on after almost 2 years doing it's job. I put it in my PTO Shaft Connectors so they are easy to put on and don't rust during the winter. There may be better stuff out there but I am sold on Fluid Film. Works way better to get rusted bolts off at least it will still be on the bolt a week later working if needed.
 

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Chain lube intended for use on an enduro/motocross bike is a much better choice for use on a snowblower than is any brand of chainwax. Chainwax is primarily intended for street bike usage, where you don't want any messy lube to be throw off onto to the wheel/passengers/ bags/etc.
 
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I agree WD40 is not really a lubricant it evaporates in short order. A very long time ago I had this 72 Ford Van and it had a idler arm bearing in a pulley for the fan belt to keep it tight. Got this brain storm with my new can of WD40 and started spraying it around to protect my moving parts! Saw that bearing and said hey it could use some to! So I sprayed it on it closed the hood and headed into town got about 6 miles from home and heard this noise under the hood squealing loud and pulled over to see what it was. That bearing froze up solid the WD40 ruined the grease in it! I got to town pulled out my tools at the auto shop and eliminated the Idler Arm and went with a shorter belt. Never again did I ever use that stuff that way again. If you want just to spray stuff use JDs Lube called Fluid Film it will stay there for a long time but will collect dirt if dusty out. I spray moving parts on my tractor and it is still on after almost 2 years doing it's job. I put it in my PTO Shaft Connectors so they are easy to put on and don't rust during the winter. There may be better stuff out there but I am sold on Fluid Film. Works way better to get rusted bolts off at least it will still be on the bolt a week later working if needed.
I'm a big fan of Fluid Film and as good as it is, I'm not really sure it is best suited for roller chains. It's primary application is corrosion control, penetration, metal wetting and water displacement. Roller chain lubes by nature have some of these same properties but also have a very high load rating meaning they can keep surfaces separated under heavy pressures. This is important for the pins and rollers on a chain as they typically see tremendous pressure while in use. Don't get me wrong, any good sticky lube is better than no lube but if you can it's best to use something specifically rated for roller chains.

Back when I raced Motocross, Enduros and Cross Country the best stuff was Chain Kote but unfortunately they stopped making it quite a while ago.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Anyone have any ideas about how to get the gears lined up? As I said, the drive gear appears to be in a fixed position, but the driven gear is still sitting "high" when down on the shaft as far as it will go.
 

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Anyone have any ideas about how to get the gears lined up? As I said, the drive gear appears to be in a fixed position, but the driven gear is still sitting "high" when down on the shaft as far as it will go.
The driven sprocket slides front and back on the impeller shaft. The eccentric locking collars will limit how far it can move. If it is hitting something and still not lined up, perhaps the locking collar needs to be repositioned slightly.

 

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Anyone have any ideas about how to get the gears lined up? As I said, the drive gear appears to be in a fixed position, but the driven gear is still sitting "high" when down on the shaft as far as it will go.
Loosen the set screws on the large driven sprocket and use a steel straight edge or 6" scale to align it with the small drive sprocket. Tighten the set screws and you should be A-OK.

IMG_1103.JPG
 

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Loosen the set screws on the large driven sprocket and use a steel straight edge or 6" scale to align it with the small drive sprocket. Tighten the set screws and you should be A-OK.
I did that, it bottomed out before they aligned.


The driven sprocket slides front and back on the impeller shaft. The eccentric locking collars will limit how far it can move. If it is hitting something and still not lined up, perhaps the locking collar needs to be repositioned slightly.

That's what I'm looking for. Locking collar is #5, and likely has an allen screw?
 

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I did that, it bottomed out before they aligned.




That's what I'm looking for. Locking collar is #5, and likely has an allen screw?
The eccentric locking collar has a set screw and a blind hole used to loosen or tighten the collar by using a drift.


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