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Discussion Starter #1
I hate how far this thing throws snow compared to my old Gravely 44" blower. That thing was a beast. I took some pics of the impeller before I sold it so I could fab a new one based on that design.
First pic is the John Deere impeller. Very poor design to say the least.
Second is the Gravely impeller.
Third pic is the disk that I cut from a saw blade. I cut it on the mill with a rotary table down to 12" and cut the center hole larger to make sure it was centered.
Forth is the center hub with a hex cut in the end for the drive dog and sheer bolt.
Last is the hub on the disk with locator slots for the blades.

I need to get some steel for the blades and cut them out all the same, put a bend in them for the scoop and weld all together.

I hope I will be impressed with how it will work, if not at least it will be better than that plastic POS
 

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A lot of folks have swapped the poly impeller for a steel one and have gotten improved performance (myself included). You are the first person though that I've seen try to build an impeller from scratch. I'm anxious to see your finished product.
 

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Are steel impeller replacements still available from inventory? (Just in case I fall over a new blower.:laugh:)
 

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I like the idea but I am not sure a saw blade is the correct backer. It is a high carbon steel and if you weld the blades on it I think under load it is going to fracture at the weld and it’s thin enough to flex. You might be better off with 1018 steel disc for the backing plate.
 

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Not to be a smart a?? why reinvent the wheel, in this case, the impeller? I have seen many posts with members replacing the impeller with the steel one with results that made them happy.
Just saying.

Doug
 

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I like the idea but I am not sure a saw blade is the correct backer. It is a high carbon steel and if you weld the blades on it I think under load it is going to fracture at the weld and it’s thin enough to flex. You might be better off with 1018 steel disc for the backing plate.
This was my thought as well, while the idea is good, I think the wrong materials are being used to start the project.
 

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:munch:
 

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Are steel impeller replacements still available from inventory? (Just in case I fall over a new blower.:laugh:)
Yes. As anyone who currently has an older 47" blower that would need a new impeller would want to replace it with the same type.

Part Number:
AM109105
Part Price: 324.16 USD

GFP shows it as well:



 

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Yes. As anyone who currently has an older 47" blower that would need a new impeller would want to replace it with the same type.

Part Number:
AM109105
Part Price: 324.16 USD

GFP shows it as well:



Is the 54 different from the 47? I was under the understanding the only difference was the actual width.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Is the 54 different from the 47? I was under the understanding the only difference was the actual width.
That is correct, they are identical except for the width. BUT... the early 47" blowers came with a steel impeller. The later 47" and all 54" blowers have a poly impeller. There were some rumblings that some of the very early 54" blowers also had a steel impeller but I have never seen evidence of that nor does the parts breakdown support it.

The steel impeller will slide right on either blower without any additional parts or modifications.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I like the idea but I am not sure a saw blade is the correct backer. It is a high carbon steel and if you weld the blades on it I think under load it is going to fracture at the weld and it’s thin enough to flex. You might be better off with 1018 steel disc for the backing plate.
I agree but that is what I had. My steal shop didn't have any scrap wide enough. Yea I know I should have just bought some.

After I weld it up I will try heating the area to take some hardness out and keep an eye on it and hope for the best
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Not to be a smart a?? why reinvent the wheel, in this case, the impeller? I have seen many posts with members replacing the impeller with the steel one with results that made them happy.
Just saying.

Doug
Because the design is bad. Too much gap at the end and blade shape is terrible. I put the rubber flaps on the end of the blades and made a huge improvement. Time will tell
 

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It appears the price has gone up considerably, like a hundred bucks.. I don't remember paying that much for my steel impeller! I May have rethought the idea if it was over three bills back then! But Maybe I'm all washed up too,, age has it's issues! Good luck with the build...
 

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It appears the price has gone up considerably, like a hundred bucks.. I don't remember paying that much for my steel impeller! I May have rethought the idea if it was over three bills back then! But Maybe I'm all washed up too,, age has it's issues! Good luck with the build...
The price has gone up. I think too it was around $250-270. I paid even less as I had a bunch of bonus points built up from GFP which I applied as a discount.
 

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I agree but that is what I had. My steal shop didn't have any scrap wide enough. Yea I know I should have just bought some.

After I weld it up I will try heating the area to take some hardness out and keep an eye on it and hope for the best
FWIW, just be careful out there. Welding on unknown composition steels of possible different grades without proper pre and post heat treatment can lead to disaster, especially on a "large rotating apparatus with a variable load". Things get brittle, things get softened, etc, you may throw one of the vanes through your housing, or launch one out the chute or one loose vane gets tied up with another and the drive comes to a screeching sudden halt. I remember there are usually shear bolts on the auger, are there any on the impeller?

It's great to be innovative, just be careful.

My 2 cents.
 

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FWIW, just be careful out there. Welding on unknown composition steels of possible different grades without proper pre and post heat treatment can lead to disaster, especially on a "large rotating apparatus with a variable load". Things get brittle, things get softened, etc, you may throw one of the vanes through your housing, or launch one out the chute or one loose vane gets tied up with another and the drive comes to a screeching sudden halt. I remember there are usually shear bolts on the auger, are there any on the impeller?

It's great to be innovative, just be careful.

My 2 cents.
Yes there is a shear bolt on the impeller.. at least there is on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes there is a shear bolt on the impeller.. at least there is on mine.
There is a shear bolt BUT mine was rusted on to the shaft. It's only 1 1/2 years old. Never would have turned to shear the bolt. Took me 45 min to get the old impeller off. New one will go on with never seize
 

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There is a shear bolt BUT mine was rusted on to the shaft. It's only 1 1/2 years old. Never would have turned to shear the bolt. Took me 45 min to get the old impeller off. New one will go on with never seize
My 54" blower was only used one season before I swapped the poly impeller for a steel one. I was surprised how corroded the impeller bushing was. I didn't have too much trouble getting it off but it was easy to see just how quickly it would rust fast and defeat the purpose of the shear bolt.

I'm not sure why JD didn't install a zerk fitting so you can grease the bushing. They did install grease fittings on the outer auger tubes to keep them from rusting fast to the inner metal tube and rendering those shear bolts uselss.

I put some anti-seize on my impeller when I reinstalled it. But... it would probably be a good idea each season to remove the shear bolt and make sure the impeller spins freely on the drive shaft. I do this for my auger but must admit I've not done it for the impeller.
 

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My 54" blower was only used one season before I swapped the poly impeller for a steel one. I was surprised how corroded the impeller bushing was. I didn't have too much trouble getting it off but it was easy to see just how quickly it would rust fast and defeat the purpose of the shear bolt.

I'm not sure why JD didn't install a zerk fitting so you can grease the bushing. They did install grease fittings on the outer auger tubes to keep them from rusting fast to the inner metal tube and rendering those shear bolts uselss.

I put some anti-seize on my impeller when I reinstalled it. But... it would probably be a good idea each season to remove the shear bolt and make sure the impeller spins freely on the drive shaft. I do this for my auger but must admit I've not done it for the impeller.

I also put never seize on my impeller too but have never tried to take the shear bolt off and see if it worked! I would hate to find out the hard way it didn't.. Thanks for that and when I set it up soon I will try and see if it worked! I hope I don't open a can or worms doing so! Like what if it is stuck,,, then remove all that stuff again... :nunu:
 

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I also put never seize on my impeller too but have never tried to take the shear bolt off and see if it worked! I would hate to find out the hard way it didn't.. Thanks for that and when I set it up soon I will try and see if it worked! I hope I don't open a can or worms doing so! Like what if it is stuck,,, then remove all that stuff again... :nunu:
I'm going to try to make a point of checking mine when I mount it up in a few weeks. I guess if you had a choice of the impeller or auger sticking, you'd be better off with the impeller sticking. If the auger hits something and the shear bolt doesn't break it can damage the front gear box. If the impeller hits something and the shear bolt doesn't break it's likely just to bend one of the blades or break the chain.

Granted, first choice is to have all the shear bolts functioning properly.
 
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