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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

First off - disclaimer - I am still fairly new to this site and my SCUT (about one year of playing with this awesome machine) so my apologies if this question is already answered (I am not up to date on all of the lingo and my search terms are probably excluding things...thanks in advance for patience!

So, I have a 2016 1023e which I bought with only the H120 loaded. I have now decided I want the 54D belly mower so I can stop pushing my little one around. As I was skimming the online adds before hitting the dealer to put an order in at full price I found a great 54D which is brand new (2017) for a great price but the seller said it doesn't come with the mounting attachments for the tractor.

I already know that I want the mechanical lift and I am impartial to the auto connect PTO or not so let's say for now I'm going to go with manual (tractor definitely doesn't have the auto setup).

My question, being that I have only seen these things in youtube videos and at the dealer, is what mechanical attachments do I need to use this deck and can I buy them not bundled with the deck itself? Through skimming online I am seeing BLV1036,7,8 part numbers for what look like brackets - I wasn't sure if these would be included with the purchase of the deck if I bought it new from the dealer or are always separate. I attached an undershot of my machine and a front shot to see if any of these are there, I'm not seeing anything making me think I need to buy these 3 parts and install them prior to the deck being usable. I would appreciate any confirmation or adjustments to my current thoughts. I do see these parts online but having an exploded view or seeing where they go on the machine would be helpful. Also curious how hard to get these bolted on - I would consider myself fairly handy and work on older machine all the time.

Thanks a lot for any help - basically I'm wondering if it makes sense to buy the new cheap deck from a private seller then piece these parts together or just get it all from the dealer, i.e. if the price on one of the online retailers or my dealer came with all of these parts the 'deal' may not be so good.
 

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It will be interesting to see what the experts here have to say...

I'm very curious as to the prices of setting up a mower "after purchase" Vs. "at time of purchase".... I would think buying "parts" to make if fit is going to cost more.

I understand that not everyone wants to, or can, finance everything at one time..... I put off buying more implements with the tractor purchase and then regretted not doing it.. That 0% money was nice

You are not alone in your questions. :good2:
 

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I was in the same boat a little over a year ago and found a 54d on Craigslist for a very good price and I called the guy and he finally agreed to take the hardware off his machine. It is the manual connect pto but it only takes a few minutes to connect so not a big deal. Got it all for under $1k and it had very little use. Not sure if there is kit you can buy but at one point I had started adding up the piece parts and gave up when I was north of $350 and I was not close to the complete list.

Good luck


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You'll need BLV10736, BLV10737, and BLV10738 like you stated above. Total they'll run you a little over $500.

If the deck is not AutoConnect you won't need the extra AutoConnect parts not listed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input everyone!

Yes my thought is that if I have to spend 500 on these other bracket/mounting parts my 'deal' is not so hot after all. Does anyone know if that group of 3 parts comes with the deck if you buy if from the dealer or some of the online sites? If those don't come with them then this may be worth looking into.

Has anyone done the install themselves? Challenging or pretty straightforward if so?
 

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Thanks for the input everyone!

Yes my thought is that if I have to spend 500 on these other bracket/mounting parts my 'deal' is not so hot after all. Does anyone know if that group of 3 parts comes with the deck if you buy if from the dealer or some of the online sites? If those don't come with them then this may be worth looking into.

Has anyone done the install themselves? Challenging or pretty straightforward if so?
When I purchased my tractors, the 54 Autoconnect deck was $1974.49 and it included all the mounting hardware and the Independent Lift option. Now, I do believe that price reflected some additional promo discount when purchasing two or more attachments with a new tractor.

I went down the same road as SmallJob and looked at a deck offered by a private party that did not include the mounting hardware. By the time I added all that up, it was more cost effective to purchase a new deck.

If you have some mechanical aptitude and some basic hand tools, you can install the deck yourself. I would recommend you do so as many dealers either have "flunkies" doing this or rush through it and fail to properly adjust it. You'll need a mower blade height gauge, which the dealer sells or Green Farm Parts, a forum sponsor, will 'throw-in' with an order over $200 (coupon code "GAUGE"). You'll get a 12% forum member discount if you specify "GTT" in the promo/coupon box. also.

In addition, I'd recommend you add 3/8 fine thread nuts to the threaded height adjustment rods on each side, to serve as jam nuts against the rod forks. This will prevent the height adjustment from being upset if you have to remove the mower lift arm. In snow country, this has to be removed to install the front PTO driveshaft for a snow blower.

Also, checkout the thread in the "stickies" about setting up and adjusting a mower deck.

I've attached the installation instructions for your reference.
 

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Also, the bolts supplied in the front attachment support kit may not be long enough, as you have the loader grille guard. They're metric. So check that before you get into it as you may have to make trip for longer bolts.
 
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Here is the info from my invoice purchased December 2017. The 1000 number and the 2001 are sales code numbers and can contain multiple parts

Kevin

JOHN DEERE 54D In. Mid-Mount Side Discharge Mower (1 Family Tractors)
Code Description Qty Unit Extended
5315M 54D In. Mid-Mount Side Discharge
Mower (1 Family Tractors)
1 $ 1,797.00

1000 Attaching Parts (Mechanical Mower
Lift)$ 182.00
2001 Auto PTO Coupler $ 252.00

Standard Options Total $ 434.00
Other Charges
Freight $ 90.06
Setup $ 180.00
Other Charges Total $ 270.06
Suggested Price $ 2,501.06

Customer Discounts Total $ -451.06
Total Selling Price $ 2,050.00
 

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I'm only going to give one piece of advice. The auto connect is the dream. No busted knuckles, no crawling on the ground like a reptile. Do whatever is necessary, to get the auto connect. You'll thank me later. No reason not to have the auto connect, this is the 21st century.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Martincom - super helpful write-up and documents. I can definitely tackle that install great to see the documents and the tips on the hardware will be super valuable!!! Also thanks for the coupon codes, if I don't buy from the dealer I will order online and this helps a lot! I'll check that sticky post too.

I'm likely these prices around 2K certainly better than what I first found (I like that 'customer discount' tractordude got)! I wish I bought all of the implements with the 0% up front too would have been smart in the long run.

I have heard the comment on the autoconnect from many people...that being said I am sure it would be a wise choice. Is that just an option you select when buying the deck or is there another part you need to mount on the machine to mate with it (that's what it looked like to me when I was poking around).

You guys are great this info is awesome!
 

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The autoconnect is an upgrade option that replaces the standard driveshaft. It is about a $250 upgrade. So you definitely want to do it with the deck purchase, so you receive the allowance for the standard driveshaft. Otherwise, it is about $500. That was included in the price I posted earlier.

If you go with autoconnect, a couple more install tips:

1. There is a male coupler that slides over the mower deck gearbox input shaft. It is secured by two setscrews. These have been known to work loose. Often, when they do, the deck is attached and they become wedged between the male and female parts of the autoconnect coupler, jamming it on. To prevent this, apply blue Loctite to the setscrew threads when installing.

I make a habit of checking the setscrews when I perform end of season service on it.

2. The instructions are rather vague about adjusting the female autoconnect coupler position. They state to "level it". More specifically, park the tractor on a level surface. Position a torpedo level across the face of the female coupler and adjust for plumb (aka: vertical level).
 
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I'm only going to give one piece of advice. The auto connect is the dream. No busted knuckles, no crawling on the ground like a reptile. Do whatever is necessary, to get the auto connect. You'll thank me later. No reason not to have the auto connect, this is the 21st century.
You're not kidding. The x730 my 1025R replaced had a manual connect, non-drive over 48" deck. What a bear that thing was to connect\disconnect: crawling around on the ground, fiddling with the belt trying to get the splines aligned (almost required three hands), and lugging it out from under the tractor. I unhooked and hooked my deck three times in the trailer to test it out before backing it off when I picked it up a few days ago, and I couldn't believe just how incredibly easy it was.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the tips on autoconnect! Dealer on phone was really pushing the service install by them for 400 bucks...jeez door closed on that option fast! I can equate that savings to my upgrade to autoconnect :bigthumb:!

I do live in snowy new England (tonight is our 3rd nor'easter in 10 days) and know this deck will come on and off quite a bit especially so I can use the ballast box while pushing snow. I think it is well worth the investment now that you guys say it! Going to poke around on the JD finance site too and see if they have any spring deals or something to ease the blow of the cost.
 

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The bolts that are used for the front brush guard are long enough for the front mower hanger. You should have spacers installed where the brush guard mounts. When you install the front mower bracket, you will eliminate these spacers and the bracket will fill in the space. The mechanical lift comes with good instructions, but even after doing a hundred or so can still be a pain to install, luckily 2017 and newer come factory installed. If you decide to install yourself you can get help anytime on here.
 

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As stated don’t have the autocorrect but to answer your other question I did the installation myself. I was fortunate to have all the original manuals/installation instructions from the PO. on a scale of 1 to 10 probably an 8. A couple of parts had been changed since the instructions I had were written so there was a bit oh head scratching for a bit. Not sure I would attempt it without some instructions. I would not say it was all intuitive.




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Thanks for the tips on autoconnect! Dealer on phone was really pushing the service install by them for 400 bucks...jeez door closed on that option fast! I can equate that savings to my upgrade to autoconnect
!

I do live in snowy new England (tonight is our 3rd nor'easter in 10 days) and know this deck will come on and off quite a bit especially so I can use the ballast box while pushing snow. I think it is well worth the investment now that you guys say it! Going to poke around on the JD finance site too and see if they have any spring deals or something to ease the blow of the cost.
Just another opinion here. I'm in your neck of the woods and do a fair amount of snow removal. I also have some high walls and other areas that the loader works much better than the blower or plow at removal as a LOT of backdragging would be required. Mainly for this reason I chose a frontier rear blower and I'm extremely happy with my choice. Besides being able to use my blower and loader at the same time, there are some other upsides of varying degree.
•I don't need to remove my auto connect setup.
• it's cheaper.
• it's much simpler and quicker to install as it literally is just clicking the driveshaft on and picking it up with the I match, no climbing underneath and installing a jack shaft.
• it clears around tight turns and corners better as I'm in reverse.
• it's not proprietary if I ever sold it.
• the ballast situation is better for a few reasons with the blower and loader on.

My 1025r with SB1148 chewed through the last foot of paste at a walking pace on a full 48" pass with zero issue. I did the 150'x 30'section of driveway in <10 mins and that stuff was heavy.

If you have a 1/2 mile driveway then backing up will be annoying and the front unit is ideal but if you have more of a parking lot with a lot of odd stuff it might be worth considering. Snowblowing in reverse is more comfortable/controllable than you think as your arm hangs over the seat and you sit side saddle. It's not like a car. Next time you're in your seat think about it. You also get a better look of what's immediately in front of your auger. Anyway, sorry about the sales pitch, Im just really happy with mine and I waffled a fair bit on the decision based on inexperience.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just another opinion here. I'm in your neck of the woods and do a fair amount of snow removal. I also have some high walls and other areas that the loader works much better than the blower or plow at removal as a LOT of backdragging would be required. Mainly for this reason I chose a frontier rear blower and I'm extremely happy with my choice. Besides being able to use my blower and loader at the same time, there are some other upsides of varying degree.
•I don't need to remove my auto connect setup.
• it's cheaper.
• it's much simpler and quicker to install as it literally is just clicking the driveshaft on and picking it up with the I match, no climbing underneath and installing a jack shaft.
• it clears around tight turns and corners better as I'm in reverse.
• it's not proprietary if I ever sold it.
• the ballast situation is better for a few reasons with the blower and loader on.

My 1025r with SB1148 chewed through the last foot of paste at a walking pace on a full 48" pass with zero issue. I did the 150'x 30'section of driveway in <10 mins and that stuff was heavy.

If you have a 1/2 mile driveway then backing up will be annoying and the front unit is ideal but if you have more of a parking lot with a lot of odd stuff it might be worth considering. Snowblowing in reverse is more comfortable/controllable than you think as your arm hangs over the seat and you sit side saddle. It's not like a car. Next time you're in your seat think about it. You also get a better look of what's immediately in front of your auger. Anyway, sorry about the sales pitch, Im just really happy with mine and I waffled a fair bit on the decision based on inexperience.
Funny you should say this as I thought about this setup from day 1 given the snow we deal with here. the loader is a must for me given my driveway is lined on one side with rip rap up a hill so I need to be able to scoop and dump up high. Honestly my driveway isn't that big and the 1023 is really overkill for it (but until my wife lifts a shovel who needs to know that :) ) so its hard for me to swallow the cost of another implement to move snow. When at the dealer last weekend when this mower deck question first came about I asked about these for giggles and they had 1 48" left which they offered to me at 1999 as an end of season get rid of it kind of thing. I almost bought it on spot but hesitated due to the common sentiment of 'why would you want to clear in reverse'. This is now making me reconsider as to me it always made perfect sense...and for that price I don't see how I can go wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just to update everyone. I called a dealer yesterday with the intention of asking for information on getting those needed parts for the other deck. Turns out they had a used 2014 one which was basically new for 1100 bucks (I thought wow what a deal). We began the quoting process for that deck plus the mechanical attachment parts and the autoconnect parts (thank you all in advance for selling me on that) and it came out to ~1900. I then causally asked what a new one would cost and since it includes those parts what do you know, ~1900. So I have a new one on order for the start of April.

Lesson learned on these decks, make sure the 'used' ones come fully equip otherwise the 'deal' is not really that great. This is new for me as I am used to tinkering with the oldies where implements are hundreds not thousands! :lol:

Thanks for all of the help everyone - case closed!

PS - awesome time pushing 28" of snow with the 1023 earlier this week. Machine cannot be stopped!
 

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1. There is a male coupler that slides over the mower deck gearbox input shaft. It is secured by two setscrews. These have been known to work loose. Often, when they do, the deck is attached and they become wedged between the male and female parts of the autoconnect coupler, jamming it on. To prevent this, apply blue Loctite to the setscrew threads when installing.

I make a habit of checking the setscrews when I perform end of season service on it.
Would you (or anyone) happen to know the specs of the set screws? One of mine came loose and then prevented the deck from connecting completely. I have it out now, but have not been able to find the part number to order some spares.

Thanks for any information you can provide
 

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Would you (or anyone) happen to know the specs of the set screws? One of mine came loose and then prevented the deck from connecting completely. I have it out now, but have not been able to find the part number to order some spares.

Thanks for any information you can provide
JD part # 22M7072 $1.46

M6x10 x1.00 Point type=cup. 3mm drive
 
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