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Discussion Starter #1
I have purchased a 2004, 5520 with 620 hours on it.

It is a sight unseen purchase through a JD dealer, being sold by a private party because of the death of the original purchaser. (A trust purchase) It should arrive in a couple of weeks, shipping 1,000 miles or so through the dealer.

Here are some of the details taken from the "build sheet" that the dealer provided. Comments on some of these options are welcome.

My life long JD mechanic and a friend who was a salesman for JD for many years encouraged me to buy it, saying it was a "special order" tractor and would fit my needs. They both like the 5520. I have been looking for a while and considered a new 5085E or others but decided to look for an older, lower profile, no DEF/emissions option.

Details:

5520 - additions - MFWD, isolated open station platform, power-reverser, 19.5L24 10PR TL and 12.5/80-18 10PR 13, Deal Rear SCV W/Lever, Dual MID SCV with Joystick, telescoping draft links, cold weather package.

541 Loader - additions - Bucket level indicator, 1850 MM, HD bucket

I plan to use this with a bale spear, needing to move round bales one of the main reasons for the purchase. Decision - considering the Frontier triple tine AB12E Dealer here has a new 2017 for about $700

The tractor appears to have one set of weight inside the wheel and two sets of weights outside the wheel. Decision - based on how it handles the smaller type round bales is to leave as is, add ballast box, hopefully not fluid (I have removed fluid from two of my other tractors)

Decision - I have never used or seen the imatch system but I am considering this to use with the rotary mower (LX6) and perhaps a 673 or 681 JD. Own the LX6 will consider the tiller option, another decision. Or another decision, is a bigger JD mower (not sure what they have) a better option. The LX6 is now mounted full time on a 1020. I am hoping the imatch, left on the rear most of the time will add a bit more weight, avoiding fluid.

Question about the engine. The build sheet says, (Deere Manufactured) and tractor data says the same. I have done some research and am not sure where it was made. My 2155 and 2750 are both "Mannheim Engines" Two people said the 5520 is the same. Not sure, so interested in some information on that. Both the 2155 (with 520 loader) and 2750 have been excellent tractors for many years.

I have some beef cattle, hay, and some timber with trails, recently logged and still being logged. So the 5520 will be used for all three. Baling exclusively small square bales now.

My view is that this 5520 will be an even lower stature tractor than my 2155, but with a bit more power than the 2750. My 2750 is now my main baling tractor with 336 baler and 40 ejector. The 4020 is the back up with electric controls for the ejector as well. The 5520 will also be the main mowing tractor for the trails, weeds, etc. along the fields and in the timber.

So, I am excited (mostly) to see how it looks, with a few decisions to make. Any input is welcome. I am not a mechanic and know very little about this series but I am hoping it is a good fit for what we need.

Probably sell the 4020 and 1020 in the spring. Don't need 5 JD tractors :)

Thanks for reading, any comments welcome to help with the decisions.
 

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Those triple tine spears are a real pita when trying to remove them from the bale. I would go with a single tine one myself.

It sounds like you have 3 weights on the back wheels on each side? you should be ok for small bales.

The quick hitch can be a little bit of a pain for rotary cutters- UNLESS its a newer model that was specifically designed for them. Not a huge deal once you refine your technique.

The Imatch is for cat. 1 hitches only. A 5520 should be a cat.2 hitch. You may need to add bushings to your implements to make them work with the quick hitch correctly.

And yes, you do need 5 JD tractors:nunu::laugh::laugh:
 
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Discussion Starter #3
John,

Thanks for the input. Wondering how safe a single tine is at this point. I have never messed with round bales before. Neighbor has 3 spear and a pallet fork attachment which he bought with his 5085E. He is a big dairy farmer who rents some of our land.

I looked at some pictures and noticed weights inside and outside the wheels 1x2 on each. This was a pleasant surprise and I hope it is enough weight.

If the imatch is a pain with the LX6 I might buy a newer rotary mower which would work better, JD of some sort, haven't checked if JD makes mowers or only Frontier at this point.

Cat I-Cat II and the bushings, confuse me, my Deere mechanic will figure it out :)

Definitely want imatch for mower/tiller for easy on and off.

K
 

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That sounds like a very nice tractor. I would prefer it to tier IV or the 50X5e series. Great find! :good2:

I like the way it was optioned. I probably would not have spent the extra :gizmo:(call me cheap), when buying new, for isolated operator station, but would it not be deal breaker used. I like being able to see my rear tires, something I can't do with the 6415, that I can with my 2030 :greentractorride:


You will like the PoweReverser, MFWD, and telescoping draft links.

The tire option sound like R4 industrial tires. :dunno: They could be good or bad depending on your use. :unknown:

I assume the loader is not MSL (Mechanical Self Leveling) :unknown:

You will need more ballast for the loader on the 3pt hitch 1325lbs for NSL, 2200lbs for MSL, without adding any fluid to rears, but keeping the weights on.
For NSL adding fluid (800lbs per wheel) plus keeping the weights on would negate the need for 3pt weight, but 3pt weight reduces the load on your front axle and it the better way to go.
For MSL you have to have 3pt weight, you can not add enough weight to the rear axle.

A couple of things to consider before getting a quick hitch/iMatch; How often do you change implements? Will your current PTO shafts be long enough? With telescoping lower draft links, you probably wont need one.

I am thinking the engine was made in Torreon Mexico and shipped to Augusta GA for tractor assembly. If the serial number for the engine starts with PE it's a Torreon built engine.

One thing I would look into is JD sells an adjustable control for the PoweReverser. It's a knob that lets you dial how fast/hard you want the Reverser shift to be.

I would like to find a deal like you did, but less HP, 5520 or 5320 to replace my 2030. I am getting tired of the collar shift transmission and having to use a ladder to fill the fuel tank :nunu:
 
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It's important to understand the difference between the imatch and the cat.2 quick hitch.

I match;


cat.2 quick hitch;



Notice how the cat 2 hitch is bigger, beefier, and has no adjustable top hook. It's built for cat 2 tractors and implements. Make sure to specify that you want a cat.2 quick hitch, NOT an imatch.

Deere makes the mx, hx, and cx lines on cutters. An mx6 should be comparable to your lx6.

A single tine spear is just fine. They do have 3 tines of course- 1 long and 2 short.
Loader Attachments | Frontier AB13 Bale Spears | John Deere US

Btw, I run 2 single tine tine spears on my tractor with no issues.
 

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One thing I would look into is JD sells an adjustable control for the PoweReverser. It's a knob that lets you dial how fast/hard you want the Reverser shift to be.
The knob won't work on the older tractors. The older models are fully hydraulic power shifting, and the new ones are electronically controlled. The knob (called a modulator kit) is tied to the electrical/computer system and electronically controls the speed of the powershift. :greentractorride:
 

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I've used pallet forks to move round bales. You have to remember the bale is NOT SPEARED!!!! If you lift too high, it could roll back, right at the operator. We never stacked higher than two rows and the only time we raised higher than that was to dump into a round bale feeder.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies!

I am not familiar with the isolated operator station but my friend, the former Deere salesman, said it was a nice upgrade. He also noted that it was also ordered with other upgrades (nice) and oddities that you don't often see or order. He said it might have been ordered for orchard/mowing use.

The R4 tires with lower stature options were ordered, I believe, for mowing and not damaging trees or grassy paths. This should work fine with what I want. The manure work in the barn will be done with the 2155/520 loader (non MFWD). It has plenty of traction for what I need. Have used it for 20 years this way. Mechanic says 5520 with MFWD would be tougher to maneuver in barn.

I did not mention the tractor has a GR manufacturing (?) limb lifter cage bolted to it. It does not have the screens on the sides and rear. This looks to be pretty nice, and although I am not sure I will keep it attached I believe I will if it fits into my building (It should). Wife will do a lot of trail mowing in timber and this attachment protects the tractor (and exhaust pipe) from limbs. I will see how it looks. It is supposed to bolt off pretty easily. With this rig off, it will easily fit into another of my sheds, with the lower profile wheels and tires ordered the way they were, another of my "requirements" when shopping for this tractor. (JD/low profile/low hours/no emissions stuff, etc.) The bumper on front I believe is separate and looks nice, could be left on.

The loader is NSL. My mechanic said he likes the NSL especially for the little I will use the loader. It has better visibility, he says.

Thanks for the advice on the single spear. I will consider that. I tend to think safe as a first default.

I wasn't sure if there was an imatch and a category II type quick tach...thanks.

Also not sure about the PTO length. How the CAT II would work with the LX6 etc.

I am told the telescoping draft links option is good to have. My brother bought a new 5055E a few months ago and it didn't have the telescoping option...which still irritates him. $900 to add it now? Not sure.

Thanks for the info on the weights. Perhaps with three sets of weights on it might work as it sits, or perhaps the ballast box, hooked to the quick tach CAT II?

My mechanic is gone for 10 days on his anniversary and is looking forward to servicing the thing and getting it all set up with what is needed. He was a Deere mechanic for 25 years and then for CAT for the last 20. He gave me clear instructions...DON'T buy ANYTHING until you get the tractor and I can see it. ANYTHING!!! We will figure it out when I get back...ANYTHING.

In doing some asking and shopping the last year or so, I was told by everyone...don't buy one without the Powerreverser. So, I listened, rare.

I have a picture of the serial number for the tractor and the emissions tag for the engine but not the engine serial #...will check it out when I get the thing.

Mower will come on and off with some sort of quick attach, as I will use the tractor for baling season, without the mower. Mower off when mowing season over. Probably leave bucket on for emergency snow removal (deep) and then use the bale spear as needed. Will switch to some round bales in 1-2 years.

Both the mechanic and former Deere salesman described this tractor and the way it was ordered as a "rare find" given most tractors aren't ordered in such a way. So, I decided not to pass on it and bought it a bit earlier than I really needed it. We will see.

Thanks for the help so far. 73
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The Cat II quick hitch looks beefy and perhaps if used on the 5520 it would add enough weight in addition to the three weight set on the wheels now?

So the Cat II quick hitch is what the 5520 is designed for and the new MX6 or HX6 mowers would work with the Cat II? (But not the current LX6 I have?)

Could a 673 tiller also be attached to the Cat II? Those would be the two implements most likely I would use. Only a mower now.

Thanks for any input.
 

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The knob won't work on the older tractors. The older models are fully hydraulic power shifting, and the new ones are electronically controlled. The knob (called a modulator kit) is tied to the electrical/computer system and electronically controls the speed of the powershift. :greentractorride:
Oops! :hide: Thanks for the correction. Maybe it was a 5x25 series I saw one on??? :dunno:
 
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Have any pictures? I'd like to see the cage.

IOOS (Isolated Open Operator Station) is like the lower section of a cab. The seat sits higher than the standard open station and fenders give more coverage. A lot of the controls are on the right fender, like a cab tractor. Throttle, SCV levers, rockshaft controls.

Does it have the ePTO option?
 
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Have any pictures? I'd like to see the cage.

IOOS (Isolated Open Operator Station) is like the lower section of a cab. The seat sits higher than the standard open station and fenders give more coverage. A lot of the controls are on the right fender, like a cab tractor. Throttle, SCV levers, rockshaft controls.


Does it have the ePTO option?
I don't see an ePTO on the build sheet, not sure what it is.

I don't have a picture, and don't know yet, how to post pictures here. Might figure it out when I get the machine and get it done.

GR Manufacturing is in Trussville, AL and manufactures lots of items and is an exclusive supplier through Deere dealers. It seems, anyhow.

There are lots of pictures if you put GR manufacturing into Google pictures, etc.

It seems like a very well done unit, and although I didn't figure having it on the tractor when I was looking/deciding what to buy the more I looked at it the more safety it seemed to offer for the tractor, and operator. It seems very functional for what I want to do with it. Will keep branches off the tractor, exhaust, etc. It probably also offers more safety than the factory ROPS, which also remains in place as is from the factory. The plain tractor with collapsed ROPS fits into a standard garage door, which I originally wanted. I have another building that will work that offers more clearance to allow the tractor to fit, as is, with the GR. Should have a few inches to spare based on what I was told.

I think they sell a lot of these items to government mowers/loggers etc. because they are safer, probably for insurance purposes. With the screens on the sides and back screen one would have good visibility and yet be protected from any rocks, etc. that the mower throws out. Ordering the screens plus shipping is about $1,700 so I am holding off on that to see the rig first. It looks like the side screens attach to the fenders which would protect them from branches also. Not sure if it is worth the money. Will see.

K
 

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ePTO stand for economy PTO. It lets you run 540 rpm at the PTO at 1700 engine rpm. Separate lever to shift internal gears and throttle limiter for the 1700 engine rpm.
It's possible it was standard with the PoweReverser, but I don't know for sure :dunno:

No idea the cost of IOOS
 
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Here a picture on bigger JD GR manufacturing
 

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Here a picture on bigger JD GR manufacturing
Thanks, Zebra. Yes, it looks similar to the one on the left, but with 541 loader on the tractor. My guess it would be a perfect match for trees and mowing.

Will post more when I see it in person.

Local JD dealer has a CAT II quick attach at another location.

Local JD dealer has a used ABI3E Frontier bale spear at another location. One long spear, two small, which local farmer says is easier than three long spears.

Perhaps I can pick up the used bale spear for half of new or so. Not sure of condition.

I have been trying to read up on the 5520 operation through an online operator's manual. Never messed with such a system with the power reverser, throttle/controls on side near seat, etc. Learning curve here.

Bottom line...first step, get it off the trailer at the loading dock and drive it home, without incident, and getting frozen.
 

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Deal time tomorrow...

Went to see a new CAT II quick attach at a JD dealer today.

Going to visit another sister dealer tomorrow to look at a Frontier bale spear, used.

Need both of them. Told the salesman, I will look at them both, then you make you and offer for the two of them.

Want $560 for the new CAT II Asking $400 for the used Frontier AB13E bale spear. One spear is bent, about $35 to replace.

I need both of them. Lines of negotiation...

I want to buy JD products but there are a lot of CAT II quick attach products out there and bale spears.

Where can we go on price for the two of them?

Both are for the 5520 and 541 loader which will arrive next week.

I am hoping both of these items will fit, if not, perhaps I will make the deal contingent on them being the right items or we can renegotiate on one or both that fit.

My mechanic says the CAT II will fit, no issues. And the LX6 mower can be "bushed" to work on it.

Suggestions of offers? I am thinking $800?

There is now way I am not putting JD products on this tractor, so I will have to bluff well.
 

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Deal time tomorrow...

Went to see a new CAT II quick attach at a JD dealer today.

Going to visit another sister dealer tomorrow to look at a Frontier bale spear, used.

Need both of them. Told the salesman, I will look at them both, then you make you and offer for the two of them.

Want $560 for the new CAT II Asking $400 for the used Frontier AB13E bale spear. One spear is bent, about $35 to replace.

I need both of them. Lines of negotiation...

I want to buy JD products but there are a lot of CAT II quick attach products out there and bale spears.

Where can we go on price for the two of them?

Both are for the 5520 and 541 loader which will arrive next week.

I am hoping both of these items will fit, if not, perhaps I will make the deal contingent on them being the right items or we can renegotiate on one or both that fit.

My mechanic says the CAT II will fit, no issues. And the LX6 mower can be "bushed" to work on it.

Suggestions of offers? I am thinking $800?

There is now way I am not putting JD products on this tractor, so I will have to bluff well.

You can get the SSQA adapter for your loader so you can use skid steer attachments. I have it on my 4066R. Skid steer attachments are much cheaper and there are so many more of them to choose from. I think I paid a little over $400 for my forks new. I paid $30 for my used 3pt bale fork, but I have the SSQA to 3pt adapter so I can use the bale fork on either front or rear.

Dave
 

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I bought a well used Deere Cat 2 quick hitch for $300 after it was listed for a long time, your area may be different. As for the spears, spear design matters way more than the number of them with regard to how easily they go in and out of bales. A good round bale spear will taper most of the entire length down to the point, older ones or cheaper ones will be a consistent diameter with just a point on the end. I prefer two long spears that are fully tapered myself, but everyone is different. Most bales will top out around 1500 lbs max, so as long as your single spear is rated for that or more you should be ok.
 

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I paid $350 for a used, like new JD CAT2 quick hitch. You might want to see if there are pallet forks that have the socket to add a bale spear. Take the forks off and put the spear on and have a two use implement.
 
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