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Is anyone having issues with their john deere 59 in snow blower...we recently had a issue with the gear box stripping the master gear..I was informed by dealer that it cannot be rebuilt and must be ordered new for a price of over 500.00 and 1000.00 to replace it... also the peller was bent and everything will cost 1600.00 to replace. just checking with everyone that may have one to determine if this is a problem with the product or just normal situation with this snow blower..
 

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Greetings and welcome. Hopefully a forum Admin can move this to the proper section where it will get more visibility.

The 59-inch blower isn't nearly as popular as the 47/54-inch and as such there isn't much discussion about them. They seem to be fairly trouble free units.

Which gearbox do you need? Is it #17 below? If so, unfortunately that is only available as a complete unit (same with the 47/54 blowers). However, if they are only charging you $500 for the part you might want to jump on it as JD Parts is showing the price as $1276.



Once this is in the proper section I'm sure you will get more folks chiming in.
 

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Is anyone having issues with their john deere 59 in snow blower...we recently had a issue with the gear box stripping the master gear..I was informed by dealer that it cannot be rebuilt and must be ordered new for a price of over 500.00 and 1000.00 to replace it... also the impeller was bent and everything will cost 1600.00 to replace. just checking with everyone that may have one to determine if this is a problem with the product or just normal situation with this snow blower..
Sounds like something happened to it.
 

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Sounds like something happened to it.

I agree John, these have been pretty bulletproof, the basic design has been used for 20+ years
 

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As Kenny said, these units are pretty bulletproof. I have had the 47" blower since 2000, and it was about 10 years old then, and the 59" blower since 2014, and this one was used well. The gearboxes for both units are identical. The impellers are similar, with the length being the difference,

One thing I learned at $275 a pop was to remove the keyway on the gearbox output shaft, and simply run a shear bolt. Once I learned that lesson after the third time, I have not had any major issuses with the gearbox on either unit.

Dave
 

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As Kenny said, these units are pretty bulletproof. I have had the 47" blower since 2000, and it was about 10 years old then, and the 59" blower since 2014, and this one was used well. The gearboxes for both units are identical. The impellers are similar, with the length being the difference,

One thing I learned at $275 a pop was to remove the keyway on the gearbox output shaft, and simply run a shear bolt. Once I learned that lesson after the third time, I have not had any major issuses with the gearbox on either unit.

Dave
Are you talking about the 59-inch blower or the 54-inch blower as being identical to the 47-inch? The 47/54 are pretty much identical except for auger length (and of course impeller material/design). They both use a chain and sprockets that drives the impeller and a bevel gearbox that drives the auger. The 59-inch on the other hand, uses a big gearbox to drive the impeller and a second bevel gearbox to drive the auger.

I posted a parts illustration above showing the 59-inch gearbox.
 

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I'm confused by the comment about "it can not be rebuilt." I bought my 59 SB used and both gearboxes were leaking oil. I used this page to find the part numbers for the seals - it list a parts breakdown for the main gearbox. There's a similar diagram for the other gearbox. I think they can be rebuilt.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/74144/referrer/navigation/pgId/113413286

I will concede, it may be more expensive to rebuild than to purchase new, depending what is broken.

If one has time to wait, they do become available on eBay from time to time.
 
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I'm confused by the comment about "it can not be rebuilt." I bought my 59 SB used and both gearboxes were leaking oil. I used this page to find the part numbers for the seals - it list a parts breakdown for the main gearbox. There's a similar diagram for the other gearbox. I think they can be rebuilt.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/74144/referrer/navigation/pgId/113413286

I will concede, it may be more expensive to rebuild than to purchase new, depending what is broken.

If one has time to wait, they do become available on eBay from time to time.
Ok... now this is a weird one. What URL are you using to get to this JD Parts page? I have three different JD Parts links including the new Parts Advisor and they all show the gear case as only a complete unit. Then comes along this one which shows all the internal parts.

However, there is a rub. If you notice, for some of the parts like for example the main gear that the OP needs it says you must order the entire gear case (AM145231).

 

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Since I own an "older" JD CUT, I've found it helpful to become familiar with a few websites. At the top of the list is http://jdparts.com. I normally use the "new parts catalog" option. It took a little time to learn and now I can find just about everything I need. It also helps when I'm trying to take something apart.

I try to use my local dealer as much as possible but if I'm putting together a big order, I just use http://greenfarmparts.com. They are a GTT sponsor, have lower prices (in general), and offer discounts and free shipping. And their return policy is generous - they've never charged me a restocking fee. I can order on a Sunday afternoon (after working on something on the weekend and have the parts at my house for the next weekend. If there's a delay, they send a notice. This works out really well since fixing equipment is not my full time job.

I put the M84790 part number into http://greenfarmparts.com and the price is $371.88. (You might note my earlier comment about the whole box being cheaper than fixing the current one.)

Here's another hint: Look for numbers on the case of the gearbox and perform a search on Google. Some are "casting numbers" and won't help. Others are the original manufactures part numbers. How do I know? My 59 SB had be poorly treated by the previous owner. I was looking into rebuilding the auger gearbox and it was expensive - cheaper to buy the entire box. I found some numbers and put them into Google and low and behold, they are manufactured by a company in Wisconsin. They are designed for salt spreaders on the back of dump trucks. They have a dealer network who stocks parts. This gearbox may be similar.

I've searched my archives but I can't find anything from when I did the project.

Hope this is helpful.
 
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Let me offer one word of caution. It might be worthwhile investigating why JD would change the part number for the gearbox and now is recommending "buy the box rather than the gear." If JD has changed the gear ration in the box, say "to improve performance," buying the "old part" may not be sufficient. I'm not saying they did, but dropping $3-400 for a gear that doesn't fit will be frustrating. I'm not sure how to run this down, but if you need me to calculate the ratio on my gearbox, I can try to do that. Its sitting on my drive right now so I can turn it by hand and count.

For me, I rebuilt my SB over the summer so I had plenty of time. At this time of the year, there may be more urgency depending on the snowfall in your area. I'm not an expert so it took me quite a while to get it all figured out - saved some money but took some time.
 

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One thing I learned at $275 a pop was to remove the keyway on the gearbox output shaft, and simply run a shear bolt. Once I learned that lesson after the third time, I have not had any major issues with the gearbox on either unit.

Dave
Great tip Dave. Did you use grade 5 bolts?
 

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I put the M84790 part number into http://greenfarmparts.com and the price is $371.88. (You might note my earlier comment about the whole box being cheaper than fixing the current one.)
I would be sure to call GFP to make sure they actually have the gear. It's possible their system is still showing the price from when it was available. According to JD Parts you can no longer order that part.

Part Number:
AM145231
Replaces Part: M84790
Part Price: 1,276.52 USD
On Hand:
0 Check Other Stores
Description: Parallel Shaft Gear Drive - PARALLEL SHAFT GEAR DRIVE
Package Quantity:
1

I checked a few on-line sources and GreenPartsStore for example lists the part and the price but has a note "Not for sale".

By the way, I noticed that GFP has a note on that part saying it is for the 47" and 59" blowers. I did a "Where Used" lookup on JD Parts and I didn't realize there was a very early version of the 47-inch blower out there that was used on the 318, 332 and 430 and it used a gearbox instead of chain and sprockets. Later models of the 47-inch blower for those same tractors had the chain and sprockets. Learn something new every day.
 

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Great tip Dave. Did you use grade 5 bolts?
One has to wonder. How could you have a bolt act like a shear bolt with a key on the shaft?



 

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One has to wonder. How could you have a bolt act like a shear bolt with a key on the shaft?
I suspect they didn't expect it to act like a shear bolt. There are shear bolts on each end of the augers/flights. It seems to be designed to handle an auger/flight getting jammed up but not the impeller. However, I'm fairly certain its possible to get an object past the flights that is large enough to jam the impeller.

Mine has a key and bolt on both ends of the main gearbox - I'm probably going to remove the key on the input side when I install it next time. Seems like the easiest place to replace the bolt when in the middle of a snow removal job. Digging through a blower full of snow to reach the other one doesn't sound like fun.

I guess the downside would be if the shaft came off, it would flail around and might break something else.

If I remove the key on the impeller side, then the impeller can slide off the shaft if the bolt breaks.

I'll have to give this some thought based on my experience having completely disassembled it a few years ago.
 

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KennyD,

I used a Grade 5 bolt.

jgayman,

I asked myself the same question, and was never able to answer the question to my satisfaction. :unknown:

JAllen,

Removing the key on the input shaft won't protect you from something jamming the impeller and breaking the coupler.

Pulling the snow out of the impeller really isn't that bad. There isn't enough room in the impeller housing to allow the impeller to slide off the output shaft. The worst situation I had seen before this week was that the weight of the snow would push the impeller backwards towards the back of the impeller housing.

Dave
 
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