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Does anyone have a diagram of the sub frame for the 59 inch 2 stage snowblower as it's connnected to a 2038R?. I need to remove the subframe from the tractor and am not sure what needs to come off. Traded my Kubota for the JD and I love everything about the tractor except this issue. It was a 10 minute job to renove the sub frame from the Kubota.

Thanks for your help!
 

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Does anyone have a diagram of the sub frame for the 59 inch 2 stage snowblower as it's connnected to a 2038R?. I need to remove the subframe from the tractor and am not sure what needs to come off. Traded my Kubota for the JD and I love everything about the tractor except this issue. It was a 10 minute job to renove the sub frame from the Kubota.

Thanks for your help!
I have detailed instructions with photos that show every detail about removing the front 59" snow blower and front 3 point hitch (the sub frame as you call it) and how to configure the tractor for loader installation and how to prep and store the removed snow blower and front 3 point hitch parts. I can post that information here when I get home from work tonight - time allowing.

The summary is that it is very simple to do and should not take you more than 30 minutes your first time following my instructions.
Summary Steps to remove snow blower:
1. Remove blower form front 3 point hitch by loosening wingnut on top of A-Frame, remove lynch pin from bottom of that same bolt and slide bolt up and out. Retain for later use.
2. Disconnect two hydraulic hoses from blower chute rotation control at mid-hydraulics/loader connections. Coil them up around the chute.
3. Disconnect short PTO drive shaft at the front of the tractor by sliding the quick coupler collet forward and disengaging the PTO shaft by sliding the shaft forward (towards the blower) until the splines are disengaged. If stuck on, send me a personal message for further instructions)
4. Start tractor and position snowblower above a pallet or two moving dollies and lower until contact is made. Block appropriately with wood to keep from tipping, lower the front hitch until the A-Frame disengages. Back tractor away from blower. Re-insert the removed pin from step 1 above onto tractor front 3 point hitch A-Frame. Blower removal complete.
5. Clean (wash) blower and touch up all damaged paint. Lubricate blower and shaft parts with grease gun and spray lube to preserve and bare metal. Store blower indoors and cover with moving blanket and tarp.

Summary Steps to remove Mid PTO Shaft:
1. If tractor is equipped with mower support, lower all the way down.
2. From under tractor, disconnect quick coupler for mid PTO shaft by sliding collet forward and sliding shaft yoke off PTO. Rest shaft on mower support cross brace rod.
3. Slide PTO yoke on front of shaft aft out of its two front support bearings. Shaft is now removed.
4. Raise mower support to highest position.
5. Clean all parts, touch up paint, lubricate and preserve. Store shaft indoors in a dry place with the snow blower for later use.

Summary Steps to remove Front 3 Point Hitch:
NOTE: The front 3 point hitch can be removed with the a frame attached to the lower lift arms and upper link, or in separate pieces.
1. Remove A-Frame by first disconnecting upper center link from tractor bracket. Remove lynch pin and slide pin out and disconnect link from Tractor. Store removed pin and lynch pin in disconnected upper link.
2. Remove lynch pins and pins at lower lift arms that are connected to A-Frame and slide the disconnected A-Frame off lower lift arms and place aside.
3. Remove remaining six lynch pins (3 per side) two per hydraulic cylinder and on at each lift arm pivot point.
4. Slide left side lift cylinder off temporarily and slide left lift arm off splined pivot shaft and place aside. Reconnect left hydraulic cylinder to tractor and install lynch pin.
5. Slide right side lift cylinder off temporarily and slide right lift arm off splined pivot shaft and place aside. Reconnect right hydraulic cylinder to tractor and install lynch pin.
6. Start tractor and turn steering wheel full left and shut down tractor.
7. Slide pivot shaft out from left side and place aside.
8. On front of tractor the 3 point hitch support should have two large nickel-plated (silver) U-Shaped pins stowed on it. From the underside, remove the keeper hairpins and slide U-Shaped pins up and out of the support.
9. Find the holes on the left side of the hitch support bracket near the hydraulic lift cylinder and slide the U-Shaped pins around the cylinder and through the support bracket and install the keeper hairpins from the back side. Repeat for right side.
10. Start tractor and retract lift cylinder pistons fully and straighten out front wheels. Shut down tractor.
11. Disconnect the two lift arm hydraulic lines from mid-hydraulics/loader connections. Install protective caps on lines and stow lines by routing forward into existing hydraulic line support wire bracket.
12. Clean all removed parts and touch up paint and lubricate and protect exposed surfaces. Pivot shaft may tend to develop rust/corrosion. Remove any rust/corrosion and protect with paint or spray lube.
13. Reconnect all removed parts (including all lynch pins) to A-Frame which is already installed on the snow blower. This will keep all parts together with the snow blower for next season.

All the removal work above can be done in 15 minutes easily once you know what to do. It's really well thought-out overall.

For best results, store everything indoors and cover as you see fit.

You are now ready to reinstall the front end loader and mower deck if so equipped.

I hope this summary is helpful. I will post the full details with photos at a later date.

Sincerely
 

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Thank you !!!

I have detailed instructions with photos that show every detail about removing the front 59" snow blower and front 3 point hitch (the sub frame as you call it) and how to configure the tractor for loader installation and how to prep and store the removed snow blower and front 3 point hitch parts. I can post that information here when I get home from work tonight - time allowing.

The summary is that it is very simple to do and should not take you more than 30 minutes your first time following my instructions.
Summary Steps to remove snow blower:
1. Remove blower form front 3 point hitch by loosening wingnut on top of A-Frame, remove lynch pin from bottom of that same bolt and slide bolt up and out. Retain for later use.
2. Disconnect two hydraulic hoses from blower chute rotation control at mid-hydraulics/loader connections. Coil them up around the chute.
3. Disconnect short PTO drive shaft at the front of the tractor by sliding the quick coupler collet forward and disengaging the PTO shaft by sliding the shaft forward (towards the blower) until the splines are disengaged. If stuck on, send me a personal message for further instructions)
4. Start tractor and position snowblower above a pallet or two moving dollies and lower until contact is made. Block appropriately with wood to keep from tipping, lower the front hitch until the A-Frame disengages. Back tractor away from blower. Re-insert the removed pin from step 1 above onto tractor front 3 point hitch A-Frame. Blower removal complete.
5. Clean (wash) blower and touch up all damaged paint. Lubricate blower and shaft parts with grease gun and spray lube to preserve and bare metal. Store blower indoors and cover with moving blanket and tarp.

Summary Steps to remove Mid PTO Shaft:
1. If tractor is equipped with mower support, lower all the way down.
2. From under tractor, disconnect quick coupler for mid PTO shaft by sliding collet forward and sliding shaft yoke off PTO. Rest shaft on mower support cross brace rod.
3. Slide PTO yoke on front of shaft aft out of its two front support bearings. Shaft is now removed.
4. Raise mower support to highest position.
5. Clean all parts, touch up paint, lubricate and preserve. Store shaft indoors in a dry place with the snow blower for later use.

Summary Steps to remove Front 3 Point Hitch:
NOTE: The front 3 point hitch can be removed with the a frame attached to the lower lift arms and upper link, or in separate pieces.
1. Remove A-Frame by first disconnecting upper center link from tractor bracket. Remove lynch pin and slide pin out and disconnect link from Tractor. Store removed pin and lynch pin in disconnected upper link.
2. Remove lynch pins and pins at lower lift arms that are connected to A-Frame and slide the disconnected A-Frame off lower lift arms and place aside.
3. Remove remaining six lynch pins (3 per side) two per hydraulic cylinder and on at each lift arm pivot point.
4. Slide left side lift cylinder off temporarily and slide left lift arm off splined pivot shaft and place aside. Reconnect left hydraulic cylinder to tractor and install lynch pin.
5. Slide right side lift cylinder off temporarily and slide right lift arm off splined pivot shaft and place aside. Reconnect right hydraulic cylinder to tractor and install lynch pin.
6. Start tractor and turn steering wheel full left and shut down tractor.
7. Slide pivot shaft out from left side and place aside.
8. On front of tractor the 3 point hitch support should have two large nickel-plated (silver) U-Shaped pins stowed on it. From the underside, remove the keeper hairpins and slide U-Shaped pins up and out of the support.
9. Find the holes on the left side of the hitch support bracket near the hydraulic lift cylinder and slide the U-Shaped pins around the cylinder and through the support bracket and install the keeper hairpins from the back side. Repeat for right side.
10. Start tractor and retract lift cylinder pistons fully and straighten out front wheels. Shut down tractor.
11. Disconnect the two lift arm hydraulic lines from mid-hydraulics/loader connections. Install protective caps on lines and stow lines by routing forward into existing hydraulic line support wire bracket.
12. Clean all removed parts and touch up paint and lubricate and protect exposed surfaces. Pivot shaft may tend to develop rust/corrosion. Remove any rust/corrosion and protect with paint or spray lube.
13. Reconnect all removed parts (including all lynch pins) to A-Frame which is already installed on the snow blower. This will keep all parts together with the snow blower for next season.

All the removal work above can be done in 15 minutes easily once you know what to do. It's really well thought-out overall.

Thank you very much for the info. If you are able to post the pictures I'd really apprecaite it.

For best results, store everything indoors and cover as you see fit.

You are now ready to reinstall the front end loader and mower deck if so equipped.

I hope this summary is helpful. I will post the full details with photos at a later date.

Sincerely

Thank you very much for the information. If you are able to provide the pictures I'd really appreciate it.
 

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I await the posting with anticipation. Still having a hard time getting installation instructions from the dealer.
 
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If you are looking for these detailed instructions, send me a PM with your email address and I will send the instructions to you via email when I compile them into user-friendly format with pictures included.

With any luck, maybe I can post the document into the GTT Technical Library for all to use. I have not yet figured out how to do that just yet. I think only a select few have the ability to post in that thread. Teaser photos below.

Sincerely
 

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With any luck, maybe I can post the document into the GTT Technical Library for all to use. I have not yet figured out how to do that just yet. I think only a select few have the ability to post in that thread.
Only mods and admins can post there, this keeps the threads clean and to the point. You can always do a post here, and we can copy or move it there when your completed.
 

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Sorry to bring up an old thread but my question kinda relates. On the snowblower short PTO shaft there is a metal hook that appears to support the PTO. The hook can swing away or the shaft can rest on it. When the tractor was delivered the snowblower was attached. I noticed the hook was supporting the shaft but it looked like when the blower was lifted this put strain on the protective plastic. My question is when operating the blower should the metal support bracket be swung aside out of the way?

Second question, I practiced removing and installing the blower today and found it was pretty easy except for one part. Install the front PTO shaft, with the plastic shroud in place I had a hard time getting my hand in there to be able to force the shaft on. None I had the PTO disengage so alignment was not an issue. Is there a trick to this I did not see?
 

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I am not familiar with the metal hook you describe in your post. Do you have a photo of this part you can share? As for the drive shaft cover, cut the shroud as short as possible (but still maintain its integrity) so you can slide it out of the way and give yourself as much clearance/access as needed to make the connection
753658
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Sincerely
 

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The metal hook is there to support the shaft when hooking up the snow blower. You don't have to use it but it helps keep it roughly in line so it isn't flopping all over the place when attaching the snow blower and getting in the way. Once the snow blower is connected to the subframe swing the hook out of the way and hook up the drive shaft.
 
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Mine does not have a hook. My drive shaft is stored using baling wire to support it. Does anyone have a photo or illustration showing the hook? Thanks
Sincerely
 

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I have a bracket supporting the chute couplers on mine that Homestead Joe doesn't have in his picture. It goes on and off easily. When I took posession the snowblower was already installed as winter had already started. Come spring I didn't take the bracket off and damaged it when I put the loader on. Live and learn I guess. The pain is routing and unrouting the lines to the main couplers.

I wanted to get the hydraulic quick connect but was told I couldn't with the snow blower. I found out later the snow connections could stay in place, just add T-fittings. Another thing for someday.

Don't mind the grass, about 2 hours after I put the loader on I got stuck in the backyard mud for a couple months. I finally got it out when the ground dried enough, without dragging, all by myself.
753693
 
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Yea that coupler bracket has to come off before you put the loader on. When I take the blower off I just leave the lines connected to that coupler and leave those all in place with the blower. Other than providing a way to hold the lines in place having the coupler is not very useful if you use a loader since you have to take them all out anyhow.
 

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I have a bracket supporting the chute couplers on mine that Homestead Joe doesn't have in his picture.
I have the kit with that bracket and hoses, I just never installed it for the very reason you show. Instead I have extra long lines on the blower that plug directly into the mid-SCV where the loader connects. Sorry to see you damaged yours....
Sincerely
 

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Here is a photo of it.
Well that explains why I don’t have the hook, our blowers look nothing alike. I wonder why?
Sincerely
753710
 

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Your front PTO shaft also does not appear to have the plastic shroud, did you remove that?
 

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My older 59SB looks just like Joe's, the plastic guard must be something new.
 
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I have the kit with that bracket and hoses, I just never installed it for the very reason you show. Instead I have extra long lines on the blower that plug directly into the mid-SCV where the loader connects. Sorry to see you damaged yours....
Sincerely
We got it bent back out fine. Just chalk it up to new guy ignorance. I did. Now I remember every time. Once a year.
 

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My older 59SB looks just like Joe's, the plastic guard must be something new.
That large plastic guard around the u-joint makes pushing the shaft on very difficult, I will give it a few more connects before i trim back a bit of that plastic.
 

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Here is a photo of it
Hagak, Can you take a step back and take another photo of the back side of your snowblower and post it here so I can get a better idea of how it's configured? Thanks
Sincerely
 
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