Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm considering the purchase of a 5'x10' single axle utility trailer to haul firewood, mulch, etc. The dimensions are sufficient for my 2720, but I'm concerned about the weight.

According to the owners' manual:
  • 1973 lbs for the tractor without attachments
  • ??? for ballasted tires
The trailer I'm considering has a GVWR of 2990lbs and an empty weight of 740lbs; it is not equipped with a brake system. GVWR minus empty weight tells me it should be able to carry 2250lbs of payload.
Does anyone know how much the tire ballast weighs?
Does anyone else carry their 2720 (without equipment) in a 5x10 trailer?

I'd only use the trailer if I needed to take the tractor to the dealer (about 30 miles away) for repairs. Recommendations / cautions are most welcomed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,199 Posts
Here's the info I gathered on the tire fills:

Front Tires R4 23x8.5x12 each tire will hold 5.5 Gal of Ballast @ 8# per gal = 22lb per tire
Rear Tires R4 14x17.5 each tire will hold 22 Gal of Ballast @ 8# per gal = 176lb per tire
 
  • Like
Reactions: LeoC4

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
You need a larger trailer to haul your tractor. Depending on what attachments you have on the tractor, it's center of mass will move and you will have to move the tractor forward or back on the trailer to get proper hitch weight. I'd look for at least a 14 or 16 foot trailer with 7000# capacity on tandem axles with two axle brakes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Even if it is just the tractor, the axel will probably be centered under trailer. The tractor will bounce up and down which will in turn pull the tow vehicle up and down and this can cause sway and with no trailer brake it can push your vehicle sideways when you try to stop or slow down. With that much weight, I would spend the extra cash and get a dual axel trailer with brakes. I can tell a big difference in towing the 2032r vs. my previous 1026r on my 18' trailer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,048 Posts
I agree with what's been said - I wouldn't go with less than I had which was an 18' dual axle trailer with brakes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: Daveb

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,721 Posts
I have a 2720 and a 5x10 landscape trailer and I too briefly considered hauling the tractor with it. The issue is tongue weight. The trailer is just too short to allow you to properly balance the load making it extremely tongue heavy.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,131 Posts
I'm considering the purchase of a 5'x10' single axle utility trailer to haul firewood, mulch, etc. The dimensions are sufficient for my 2720, but I'm concerned about the weight.

According to the owners' manual:
  • 1973 lbs for the tractor without attachments
  • ??? for ballasted tires
The trailer I'm considering has a GVWR of 2990lbs and an empty weight of 740lbs; it is not equipped with a brake system. GVWR minus empty weight tells me it should be able to carry 2250lbs of payload.
Does anyone know how much the tire ballast weighs?
Does anyone else carry their 2720 (without equipment) in a 5x10 trailer?

I'd only use the trailer if I needed to take the tractor to the dealer (about 30 miles away) for repairs. Recommendations / cautions are most welcomed.
For what it's worth, I owned a Cargo and Utility Trailer and Reese Hitch Dealership for many years so I am familiar with trailers and the towing of various things correctly and safely.

I would consider the 5 x 10 single axle as undersized for your needs. When I have watched people use trailers with loads very close to their specs, the trailers usually ended up disappointing. Sometimes they severely disappointed. The trailer is also quite narrow for that heavy of a load. With a single axle and heavy load, it is likely to sway and be quite unnerving. Tow vehicle makes a big difference.

I would use a tandem axle trailer only for hauling a tractor of that size and weight. I wouldn't get anything that didn't have a 2 5/16th ball size. Also, hauling the trailer without brakes means you are requiring the tow vehicle to do all of the stopping. I didn't see what your tow vehicle is, but if it is your usual 1/2 ton truck, now you have a towing load of 50% or more of the tow vehicles weight. This is only safe if the trailer has fully functioning brakes.

Also, your proposed trailer would have way too much weight on the tongue as you have proposed when hauling your tractor. When there is only one axle, the load is shared between the axle and trailer tongue.

If it were me, I would look for a used trailer in the 7 x 14 or longer category with tandem axles with at least a 3,500 lb weight limit per axle. I would also want the trailer to have at a minimum 15" wheels and no less than 5 lugs per wheel. Anything less and the weight rating on the axles will be much lower than you need.

Make sure you have fully functioning brakes and of course, a brake box in the tow vehicle. You must be able to safely stop this load under any circumstance. You need a 7 way plug on the trailer to provide the brakes power using a electric brake box.

Just because people do things by no means makes them safe. I see stuff all the time which makes me quite concerned. I Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,005 Posts
Look into a 16' with brakes on at least one axle (I prefer the rear) but both is best.. Trailers are like a shop, it will come a time its not big enough and wish you went bigger. Its cheaper to just go bigger now then later on..

Also, you think you wont use the trailer that much so why get a big one? I think you will find you would use it way more than you thought you would have once you have one.. Also, if you get a 3pt trailer hitch or just put a ball on the drawbar, the 2720 will pull the 16' trailer without a problem around your yard for whatever you want to do..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,099 Posts
When I got my 1025R, I only had a 5x10 single axle trailer and I soon realized it was not big enough, nor safe enough to haul such precious cargo. So, I upgraded to a 20ft 7K aluminum trailer with a 2ft dovetail and brakes on both axles, thinking that should take care of any future needs. Much better. Then I upgraded to a 4066R and now I am looking for a bigger 14K trailer as the 7K trailer is too marginal to haul the bigger tractor. Three trailers in 2 years. Save yourself some money and get at least a 7K trailer with brakes on both axles. It will handle anything smaller than the 4 series just fine and you won't have to be constantly upgrading as I am doing. I also had to upgrade to a 3/4 ton pickup to be able to handle the extra load. As the size of your toys goes up, so does he cost of the toy and everything related to it, such as attachments.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
I agree with what everyone else has said, the 5x10 would not be a good choice to haul your tractor. I would go with the 7x16 dual axle rated at 7000. If you lived closer I would sell you my 7x16 as it is too small for 5100.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,964 Posts
I have to agree with everyone else. I had a 5x8 wag the back end of my S10 and I only had a 1000lbs of PA equipment in it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
640 Posts
More of the same, I had a 6 X 10 and used to carry my 1026R. It would work but only if I only hauled the tractor without the FEL. Go with a tandem 14' or bigger and you should be good.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,131 Posts
I'm considering the purchase of a 5'x10' single axle utility trailer to haul firewood, mulch, etc. The dimensions are sufficient for my 2720, but I'm concerned about the weight.

According to the owners' manual:
  • 1973 lbs for the tractor without attachments
  • ??? for ballasted tires
The trailer I'm considering has a GVWR of 2990lbs and an empty weight of 740lbs; it is not equipped with a brake system. GVWR minus empty weight tells me it should be able to carry 2250lbs of payload.
Does anyone know how much the tire ballast weighs?
Does anyone else carry their 2720 (without equipment) in a 5x10 trailer?

I'd only use the trailer if I needed to take the tractor to the dealer (about 30 miles away) for repairs. Recommendations / cautions are most welcomed.
LeoC4, I thought of a couple of other points I want you to consider.

1. Make sure the trailer has "brand name" axles, if you can. Dexter Axle is a very common one on a wide variety of trailer brands. The reason I suggest brand name are A.- it will be easier to get parts in the future if you need them. B.- The common axles used are most often also correctly set up with the best spring package as many axles are sold as an assembly and C. - The common brand names have gotten the maintenance down to a science which makes it easier for the owner.

2. You need to make sure that the rear tailgate or rear ramps or whatever the rear loading assist system is on the trailer will support the weight of your tractor. Often, the trailers sold at the Farm Supply stores which have a rating of 2,000 or 3,000lbs have a light weight gate on them which will be crushed by the weight of your tractor. I actually saw a guy tear the welded hinges right off a brand new trailer when he was loading his tractor on it. Sadly it damaged his new tractor also but luckily he wasn't hurt.

3. Don't hesitate to check Craigs List in the farm section or search trailers. I find many good ones for sale on there which people either no longer need or they are going up in size and have to sell their current one.

4. If you find a homemade trailer built by the seller, be VERY CAREFUL as some states, mine included, won't title a trailer that is homemade unless it passes a safety inspection. A lot of guys don't bother and simply throw another trailer plate on it for their use. So make sure the trailer has a state issued title so you can properly license it.

5. Having been a dealer, I encountered a surprising number of people who bought new trailers and never registered them. A dealer in my state has to prepare what's called an RD108 Form and attach the Manufacturers Certificate of Origin. If people don't register them to avoid paying the sales tax and registration and plate fees, the RD108 made out to them is something you CAN NOT take to the states Secretary of State or Motor Vehicles Department.

If you encounter a used trailer you are interested in purchasing, make sure you see the title. If they show you an RD108 with the attached MSO, tell them you will buy it once they register it so you can get a title. Also, just FYI, if someone in that situation loses a Factory Issued MSO, it is very troublesome and frustrating to get such a trailer registered.

By law, the manufacturers can not issue Multiple MSO's to the same vehicle for obvious fraud reasons. Someone who has lost the MSO essentially has to go thru a check by the State Police to prove it isn't stolen and they have to go through the Homebuilt or constructed trailer process. Unless the seller was really ready to knock the price down, i wouldn't get involved in such a mess. I bet I had 20 people over the years who wanted to sell or trade a trailer and they had never registered it which makes the process time consuming and adds cost. Just FYI......

For those attentive to details, while the Manufacturer Certificate of Origin would actually be the initials MCO, for some reason, everyone, including the Secretary of States office in Michigan refers to them as MSO's......They are the same thing, maybe the state spells certificate with an "S"....:laugh::unknown:

Hope this helps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: coaltrain

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
For those attentive to details, while the Manufacturer Certificate of Origin would actually be the initials MCO, for some reason, everyone, including the Secretary of States office in Michigan refers to them as MSO's......They are the same thing, maybe the state spells certificate with an "S"....:laugh::unknown:
I am very glad you cleared that part up...my inner grammar-nazi was making me itch!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,131 Posts
I am very glad you cleared that part up...my inner grammar-nazi was making me itch!
I didn't want anyone else to think I was "grammar / spelling impaired"......More than they already do.......

When I went to download the spell checker for this site, It launched some P.I.T.A. "computer analyzer" program that now pops up and I would like to dynamite. In the meantime, it leaves me to my own "checking" which can be perilous....:nunu:
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top