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Discussion Starter #1
Any scut owners have any issues running a 6’ grater blade on a 1026r ? Just curious since they are only rated for 4’ implements


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unless your moving loose dirt or snow---------

rear blades are a pita.

Save your ca$h for a Box Blade. This is a tool thats very handy.

I have one simply because it was my dads and once in a great while been 20 yrs. its actually usefull. It will slide full L&R

Have bought and sold a half dozen....some very nice....there a answer to a problem that dosen't exist @ my place.

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Discussion Starter #4
unless your moving loose dirt or snow---------

rear blades are a pita.

Save your ca$h for a Box Blade. This is a tool thats very handy.

I have one simply because it was my dads and once in a great while been 20 yrs. its actually usefull. It will slide full L&R

Have bought and sold a half dozen....some very nice....there a answer to a problem that dosen't exist @ my place.

0.02
I have a box blade that stays on year round. Thought a grater blade would be better on my 500’ gravel drive and keep a center crown to it. Just weighing options.


2011 diesel 1026R mmm with FEL , box blade, we long tooth bar , 4’ bush hog and 25gal sprayer all on the imatch hookup.
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I have a box blade that stays on year round. Thought a grater blade would be better on my 500’ gravel drive and keep a center crown to it. Just weighing options.


2011 diesel 1026R mmm with FEL , box blade, we long tooth bar , 4’ bush hog and 25gal sprayer all on the imatch hookup.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One may work for you.

I've found them basicly useless unless back filling a ditch/trench...or... cleaning a ditch .

Mine ...I can slide my blade ( on its mount) clear too the L or R. Tilt in any direction. Spin it backwards.

They have a place in the world.

If I were shopping I'd buy used and look for the nicest one possible....even if its to wide. I can be shortened easy.
I'd never pony up the 700$ there asking for junk ones new up here. Used can be had for 150 ish+-

I'll never give up my poor old wore out BB. It just works for everything.

BB ...you can adjust 3 point lift linkage to grade your "crown" if desired. BB holds the load better and leaves less " trails" to clean up on multiple passes that a straight blade would.

imho.....everyones is a bit different.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One may work for you.

I've found them basicly useless unless back filling a ditch/trench...or... cleaning a ditch .

Mine ...I can slide my blade ( on its mount) clear too the L or R. Tilt in any direction. Spin it backwards.

They have a place in the world.

If I were shopping I'd buy used and look for the nicest one possible....even if its to wide. I can be shortened easy.
I'd never pony up the 700$ there asking for junk ones new up here. Used can be had for 150 ish+-

I'll never give up my poor old wore out BB. It just works for everything.

BB ...you can adjust 3 point lift linkage to grade your "crown" if desired. BB holds the load better and leaves less " trails" to clean up on multiple passes that a straight blade would.

imho.....everyones is a bit different.
I found several for 200 or less down here used good condition. I do good with bb just wanting more diversity of the tractor. In not purchasing a new one. I would love to have a tiller but $$$$ even used everyone wants a new price for them. Nope not doing it. My daddy did not raise no fool


2011 diesel 1026R mmm with FEL , box blade, we long tooth bar , 4’ bush hog and 25gal sprayer all on the imatch hookup.
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I have a 5' rear blade and it works wonders on my long driveway. If I had an opportunity to grab a 6' id do it. You can turn them around and back blade for touch up really well also. As Duke said, they can be a handful in the wrong hands, but with some stubborn persistence, you can get your driveway maintenance down to 3-4 back blade passes once you crown it properly. Very handy and versatile tool.
 

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Not a blade but I use a 6ft landscape rake on my driveway. No problems pulling it. 6 ft is real nice since it allows angling it quite a bit while still grading a wide enough path.

The only problem is that with the heavy gage wheels hanging way off the back the 3pt will just barely lift it. Not really an issue since I unhook the top link and use the 3pt to control depth of cut.
 
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