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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So guys I bought a new 2025 R a few months ago and love it but the dealer can’t seem to get the MMM i bought to connect right I’m getting frustrated and want to tell him give me my money back I will go by an x series rider but don’t want to do y’all have any problems connecting to y’all’s deck and disconnecting is it truly as easy as it looks on TV LOL. Should I give it a chance or give it back to dealer
 

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The only problem I’ve had is if I leave the loader on and take the deck off it will bend the front link on the deck.

I have had to “chase“ the deck around before. It will want to slide around some. This is often because I have the pto lever in the wrong position. It should be set to the rear pto setting only. This lets the mid pto freewheel and hook up easier.

I can’t help but wonder if your dealer lacks some experience in setting it up. I fought mine a couple of times but once I figured it out it was easy. When I say I fought it that means it took me 10 minutes to hook it up instead of 3 or 4 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok thanks yeah the salesman bent a front link part trying to demonstrate the deck last week and haven’t heard from them since kinda frustrated thanks for letting me know what you experienced
 

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Same as Dodgeman I have had some frustrations with mine but always get it hooked. I just make sure to give it plenty of room to get it right while I shove it around. Sometimes it clicks right in. Sometimes it gives me trouble. I always get it hooked though. Maybe your dealer didn’t have it set up properly. There are a lot of parts to this contraption. And a lot of adjustments to the linkage to get it right. Once it’s dialed in though it is as simple as it is advertised. Just gotta pay attention and do the right steps
 

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I found out on my height adjustment dial that needs to be in the connect position when I am lowering it to hookup (install) the mower, it is 1 click off from being low enough to make the correct connection. Therefore I have to turn it 1 click past the install position (lower) an then it hooks up without any problems, I got this tip from u-tube videos. I think this may be your problem too. Next time you attempt to hook up your MMM, try turning the lowering knob 1 more click past the indicated position on the knob. Turn it as far down as it will go if there are more than 1 click available. It should hook up correctly when you try that position. There are a lot of miss-adjusted or miss-marked knobs on the auto connect mowers. Also make sure your hydraulic lift is in the lowest position as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok thanks guys once the dealer returns the price he’s bent trying to put it on to demonstrate the hook up of deck I will try that cause it seemed to be a problem that it wasn’t low enough the front bar would come up but the pins underneath would boss the slots on mower arms connected to tractor
 

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I have had mine since 2011. It works just like the JD videos most of the time. I have found it needs to be on a flat level surface to work right. If I take it off near the floor drain in my shop it may or may not go back on. I have mixed results when I take it off on the lawn. it generally go’s on and off easily.

some dealers seem to have issues setting up the deck properly. There is at least one thread on here on how to set up the mmm. Read through it and you should be able to set the deck up yourself. I think there has been a few updates to the deck linkage since I got mine, which is one of the first 1026Rs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok I will look for that set up thread just frustrated dealer can’t get it right and bent bracket trying to show me operation almost called them told them to trade mower deck for a x series mower if it was going to be that much hassle guess I should just play with it and give it a little time thanks
 

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If it slides to much, you can buy a cheap horse stall mat at tractor supply and set the deck on it when attaching or separating. Should make things easier. I use these mats around the shop and they are quite nice on the feet as well.

780492
 
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+1 on the mats. No issue since I have used one.

I have the hydraulic lift with electronic SCV. I had issue at first and found the deck would not completely to install unless I put the 3pt down past 1/2 way. So now I do that and PTO in rear only and it pops right on.
 
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I had same issues with mine, including bent bracket. I took it back to the dealer and it still was difficult to remove and install. I finally crawled under to look around after finding 3 different nuts in the yard and driveway that came off the tractor. Never did find out where the missing nuts went, but did see brackets that were misaligned. Once I realigned the deck came off/on easier but still not easy. Mine started doing fine after being off/on about 20 times. Now it’s no problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok thanks I’m calling dealer today and see if the bracket is in and try messing with it myself instead of waiting on them seems farming season takes precedence over homeowners but I understand that clearly that’s why I bought it in February but still not fixed right
 

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There was a very recent thread on this same topic, with some very good posts About how to prevent the mower damage. IIRC it involved a small weld. I have looked but can’t locate it. If anyone finds it, would you please post a link. Thanks.
 

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Two more tips. Never have the end loader on when taking the deck off and on. The end loader stand catch’s the front draft arm(bracket like silver thing at the front of the deck) and bends a bunch of parts. Second, sometimes mine won’t quite hook up and I just need to give it a little yank forward so the latches will engage.

Just a guess on my part but the dealer took the deck off with the FEL on and bent the parts on the front draft arm.
 

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I just installed my 60D on my 1026R yesterday for the first time this spring. All last year, it went on immediately and click locked flawlessly. Yesterday, it didn't want to go on that last 1 1/2". I aired up the tires to spec, but that didn't help. I finally moved it into its lock position by lifting and rolling the front right and left corners of the deck backward with a long pry bar. I noticed the location on the asphalt driveway was pitched down a bit from left to right. Another difference from last year was that I still had the loader arms installed minus the bucket, since I had just used the Load-N-Go to clean the deck. Last year, the tractor was level on the driveway and minus the loader up front. I think these were the two main problems with not getting an easy hookup on the deck. Once I got my deck set up last year, installation was foolproof. I believe leveling the tractor and deck is critical. And, the tip posted above about selecting rear pto only is excellent. This should allow your middle pto coupling to rotate freely and self align with the mmm drive shaft splines. I never had to do that last year, but it's a good idea.
 

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If it slides to much, you can buy a cheap horse stall mat at tractor supply and set the deck on it when attaching or separating. Should make things easier. I use these mats around the shop and they are quite nice on the feet as well.
My concrete barn aisle is topped wall to wall with these 3/4 inch rubber mats. My MMM can slide from one end of the aisle to the other in the process of trying to drive the tractor over the mower deck. I have better luck on grass, less so on gravel. And yes, I am in 4wd low range, PTO selector on rear only, and I have made a gauge to make sure the dropped female PTO coupler is at the same level as the MMM gearbox shaft.

Now, I usually put the deck on the ground outside the barn facing the wall, and wedge a couple of long 2x4s between the front of the deck and the barn foundation. Except for the effort to move the deck into position and placing the bracing lumber, the driveover and automatic hookup is a piece of cake.

Next planned step is to drill a couple of holes in the concrete, and use a couple of short drop-in steel rods, working similar to workbench dogs, and use those to keep the deck from sliding down the barn aisle. Same plan for the place where I remove the FEL, so the bucket doesn’t slide around.
 

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The OP is asking about his 2025R. The draft arm and draft arm setup for the 2025R is different from the 1-series draft arm. Some of the posted responses from 1-series guys about their SCUTs don’t apply to the original post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for all the comments and experience y’all have had with your mower decks and yes the dealer installed and took off the deck to show me how to install with FEL on the tractor and bent a small silver bracket on the silver arm that catches on the front of tractor
 

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My concrete barn aisle is topped wall to wall with these 3/4 inch rubber mats. My MMM can slide from one end of the aisle to the other in the process of trying to drive the tractor over the mower deck. I have better luck on grass, less so on gravel. And yes, I am in 4wd low range, PTO selector on rear only, and I have made a gauge to make sure the dropped female PTO coupler is at the same level as the MMM gearbox shaft.

Now, I usually put the deck on the ground outside the barn facing the wall, and wedge a couple of long 2x4s between the front of the deck and the barn foundation. Except for the effort to move the deck into position and placing the bracing lumber, the driveover and automatic hookup is a piece of cake.

Next planned step is to drill a couple of holes in the concrete, and use a couple of short drop-in steel rods, working similar to workbench dogs, and use those to keep the deck from sliding down the barn aisle. Same plan for the place where I remove the FEL, so the bucket doesn’t slide around.
I just bought and installed the Load-N-Go ramps on my 60D MMM. Now picking it up and setting it down is a piece of cake. Your ideas above for capturing the deck are excellent. The Load-N-Go would allow you to get it in position easy peasy.
 
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