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Discussion Starter #1
Can a 1025R comfortable handle a 60" rotary cutter (say a Frontier RC2060) in low-to-moderate grass that is not very thick and only about sheen tall?
grass.jpg
 

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Nope, IMHO a 48" rotary would be the biggest you should put on a tractor with under 20 HP at the PTO. The good thing is a 1025R isn't much wider than the 48" mower.

But, you can always try it out and report back...
 

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There are a few members here that are using 5' mowers on a 1 series. After you make the first pass, you can take less than a full cut if it's too thick to try and knock down a full 5' swath. Just make sure you have enough weight on to keep the front end down when you lift the cutter, the loader is good for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
According to the Deere/Frontier website, the weight difference is only 74 lbs.

RC2060 = 590 lbs.
RC2048 = 516 lbs.

*Cutter configuration: slip clutch, front and rear chain deflectors, and laminated tire

So is 74 lbs. enough to make a significant difference? That's less than two small suitcase weights. Just curious...
 

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The difference in length adds to the weight. It's a lever. The longer it is, the more leverage it has over the tractor. The 1 series is a very short wheelbase machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ahhh, that makes sense.
 

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My 48" mower is right at the limit of what my 1026R on level without front ballest. With the loader on the front the 1 series is a long machine. This coming year I hope to get a front weight bracket and some suitcase weights.

-636
 
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Can a 1025R comfortable handle a 60" rotary cutter (say a Frontier RC2060) in low-to-moderate grass that is not very thick and only about sheen tall?
View attachment 35041
I run a King Kutter 5 foot brush hog on my 1025R without any issues. Plenty of power. Loader is necessary for counter ballast. It won't lift very high but that is not usually a problem

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The 1025 cannot "comfortably handle" a 60" rotary cutter. It just cannot. :( if you go slow and take less than a full cut then I'm sure that it could mow some grass, however, you just defeated the whole purpose of going with a bigger one. There have been many instances in many different types of grasses and weeds that I have been forced to a crawl with just a 48" RC. I don't take a full cut with that either since it doesn't cut the right wheel track very well.


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I wouldn't want a 5 footer on the back of my 1026R. A small portion of my field is on an incline and the 4 footer gives me a bit of pucker factor as it is.


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Discussion Starter #12
A small portion of my field is on an incline and the 4 footer gives me a bit of pucker factor as it is.
Do you feel like the tractor is roll over (sideways)? Or more so that the frontend of the tractor is going to come off the ground?
 

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Tipping more so than the front lifting. I always mow up and down the slope, never ever across it! My biggest problem is that the edge of the woods/property line is right at the bottom of the slope so I need to turn right at the bottom. Usually I back down the slope and then mow up it. I always have the FEL on and sometimes put 150lbs of weight in the bucket. 4WD always engaged. I am sure I am no where near tipping if I turn at the bottom, but ALL of the rest of my property is flat as a pancake so the slope is just not in my routine comfort zone. It handles the 4 foot cutter like a dream in the rest of my field.


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My 48" mower is right at the limit of what my 1026R on level without front ballest. With the loader on the front the 1 series is a long machine. This coming year I hope to get a front weight bracket and some suitcase weights.

-636
I am the same. I run a 48" on my 1025r, and I can make it grunt in heavier grass/brush. It might be able to handle a 60" in light/thin grass, but not if the grass got very tall. I agree with 636mullet...a 48" is the right size for this tractor. I too need to get a weight bracket on front, because I don't like having the loader on while mowing. And, because in this forum threads are worthless without pics, here is my 1025r and 48" Howse rotary cutter:

1025 rotarycutter.jpg
 

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IMAG0211.JPG

My front end tends to get a bit light with all 7 weights on the front. I don't understand how some of you get by without front ballast.:unknown:
 
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View attachment 35182

My front end tends to get a bit light with all 7 weights on the front. I don't understand how some of you get by without front ballast.:unknown:

I have the 5 foot brush hog for my 1025R. Normally I have my FEL on to provide front ballast for the brush hog. However, the other day, I just needed to move it out of the way, so just backed up to it, hooked up using the iMatch and took off. Wow, no steering!!!! Since I did not have to move it too far, I was able to make by lowering the brush hog down enough for the tail wheel to take up some of the weight and that gave me some steering.

Dave
 
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I have cut down most of my rough areas with the 2048. I have steep slopes and it's all I want to handle. Slow, bucket low, and on the edge of my seat. I can't lift the 2048 on my hills without getting very concerned and a plan put together.

But once cut down, limbs removed, and Kentucky flat stones pulled out, I mow it all with the MMM on the highest settings. I can mow 24" wet grass without a problem, as long as I am not trying to go up the hill. Drive takes a lot of the power away from the PTO.
 

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Drive takes a lot of the power away from the PTO.
I want to see if I am correctly understanding a specific portion of your comment, which I have copied above.

When you have the PTO engaged and the tractor is not in forward or reverse motion, the PTO seems to lose power once you begin to move the tractor by pushing on one of the Hydro drive pedals?

If that were the case, I would be concerned with something being wrong in the hydro system.

While we have all experienced the difference on power draw on the engine once you engage the PTO and it comes up to speed, I can't say that I have ever noticed any decline in the PTO operational speed or power once I began to move the tractor with a Hydrostatic drive.

Or am I misunderstanding your comment?:unknown:
 

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I want to see if I am correctly understanding a specific portion of your comment, which I have copied above.

When you have the PTO engaged and the tractor is not in forward or reverse motion, the PTO seems to lose power once you begin to move the tractor by pushing on one of the Hydro drive pedals?

If that were the case, I would be concerned with something being wrong in the hydro system.

While we have all experienced the difference on power draw on the engine once you engage the PTO and it comes up to speed, I can't say that I have ever noticed any decline in the PTO operational speed or power once I began to move the tractor with a Hydrostatic drive.

Or am I misunderstanding your comment?:unknown:
What Fred is saying is a real and common occurrence with low HP tractors. There's only so much horse power available and running PTO driven attachment plus moving the tractor/implement itself frequently exceeds the HP capabilities of the engine. I guess I'd have to ask why you think the HP demands of the hydrostatic drive would be ANY different than the PTO in it's ability to lug down the engine? And there is a VERY substantial difference in the load placed on the engine moving the tractor/implement up hill verses down hill. That difference is plainly seen with both hydrostatic and gear driven tractors, trucks, cars, etc.
 
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