$60 Selector Valve? (Edit.. and an inexpensive top link setup)

Not clear on what you want but you don't need a selector valve to plug into the SCV ports. If you are talking about using the existing loader ports with the loader off you just need connectors and hoses.

A dual selector valve is used to divert an existing function. It gets plumbed in permanent so you would be restricting what ever function you intend to divert with this valve.

Thanks
I would like to divert an existing function (Bucket Curl) to use with occasional accessories while the loader or front blade is on the machine and in use.

I don't want to plumb it in permanently, I want to be able to remove it when I do not need it... so figure it can plug into the QC ports, and trailer plug or the like for power connection.

Making it removable would help if it is restrictive (specs show almost double the flow the 1023e has so maybe not)... as it would only be when another control is needed.

I guess the smaller port size wouldn't be much of an issue for that purpose. Especially since it is rated at a higher flow than your system is rated at. Have you looked into available adapters to do what you want?

It seems to me it would be less trouble to just plumb it in permanent. How are you going to mount the valve so it's easily removed?

That valve will certainly do the trick. This is an extremely simple task that involves extremely simply plumbing... with bulky hoses and fittings that take up way too much space on a tractor that has virtually no available space. The biggest challenge will simply be putting that thing somewhere. I suggest fabricating a mount that straps or bolts it to the right loader mast. That way it is attached to the tractor, not the loader. You just need some short hoses to the loader couplings, and some female fittings on the valve.

The great looking thing about that valve is that it's small and would be great for the limited real estate that most of our tractors have.

What isn't readily apparent to me is how would you mount it (although I realize that the OP is wanting something "temporary"). Three of the four sides of the valve block have fittings on them. I would think that you would want to mount the valve so that the flat (non-fitting side) side of the of the valve to whatever surface is available on the tractor. But the mounting holes look like they run from one side to the other and not from top to bottom.

Keep in mind that I'm not a designer/fabricator and that sometimes something obvious may escape me. I'm sure one of you smarter-than-me guys (and there are many!) will point out how this thing should be mounted.

I'm going to try to have it hang right off the existing female connectors...will use some elbows and the like to make it so that I can space the male connectors accordingly to fit into the front.... And then some more elbows to get the four female connectors pointing in a usable position....

I also looked at this...so it will give you an idea of what I am thinking.
(I'll plan a little more compact arrangement)

It will need support, unless you like leaking QD's.

I despise leaking anything...

Hosing the questions here is more of a "Is this device suitable for the pressure flow and durability we expect from these machines?" Type of question...

I'll make sure it's safe secure mounted well plumbed in a professional manner.... I was really kind of looking for somebody to say "tried it it's a piece of garbage" or "the flow isn't right" or "you'll have to worry about that load that's in your bucket falling on your head from dynamic pressures that might exceed that device capabilities".... Those kinds of things...
Is $60 valve sounds a little too good to be true... But if it has specs and will meet those specs... I might just give it a try

That is a apparently new offering from the Surplus Center, but Wavoil is a respected brand. This is the one that was real popular:


And:

Good info! Thanks. I do like the "snowplow style" stem valve/coil/block setups a lot, but I think I'll try this little guy.

Sometimes when I do this stuff.. I'm looking to see "if i can do it for less"... just for the sake of having an affordable solution to a small need, but, it also has to be safe with great usability. I do not "need" this ... I just want to build something. I think I'll head towards the hydraulic top link first, as I do use my rake a lot, and find myself spinning the top link to adjust a lot.

I think I'm going to go ahead with this. I also think, instead of having it mount on the SCV ports... I may mount it to my loader frame as Pedals2Paddles suggested and to avoid stress on the couplers as Kennyd points out. I just need to keep it in reach of my loader hoses. The SCV ports are kinda close to the loader frame to try and fit this in that gap anyway.

This is when I wish I still worked at NAPA... it was nice to have the hose press and cabinet full of fittings right there to see what would work then build what I wanted (I also miss the free machine work and "parts at cost" thing...)

I'll keep posting as I move forward.
Hopefully my tractor comes back from the warranty adventure soon so I can start measuring.

I looked at this too..


...thinking I might just add it as a 3rd function valve... but it doesn't separate PB and Tank ports, and its "on/off" (no way to "feather it") so think I'm gonna go with the diverter plan.
But...
I could probably get away with it in line before the return(that feeds the 3 point) , as the tank port is good to 3045psi.
I would have to use a flow restricter it to slow it for things like top links and trailer dumps.

Decisions decisions....

Are these devices rated for exposure to rain and such?

Most of them are "weather resistant".

Twice as much money for the valve but if you wanted to mount it rigid in a convenient location you could possibly go mechanical and save the wiring and switch install. It wouldn't be as handy for say a grapple but for using a top link and not needing to switch back and forth too much I think manual would be the way to go.

Side question...My first use for this project will be a Hydraulic top link..

Do I want one with a pilot operated check valve? like this:

OR one without, like this:

I get "what it is" ... just wondering if I need the safety and position retention, as opposed to maybe saving a little real estate back there... the cost difference is negligible, and all of my implements are light (<650lbs)

IF you think you might want to "float" the top link, then do not get one with a DPOCV

I don't have the float option unless I use the lift lower circuit... I wasn't planning on that, but... why eliminate a capability? hmmm... thinkin' I need the room back there, and I might want to float (could always use a chain I guess...)
I could also use this cylinder for other things..and that valve might get in the way.
Thanks Kennyd.. I think we will go "no check..."

I have that agrisupply one without it. I has never moved on it's own. I'm not sure what circumstances would cause it to do that. I'm sure some exist, just not sure what it would be. But I'm guessing a 1 serious is not going to encounter it.

Great info!!! Thank you