$60 Selector Valve? (Edit.. and an inexpensive top link setup)

SO.. I just edited the thread title ... because I was headed for "off topic".
My new goal is an inexpensive diverter AND a hydraulic top link setup

Now I am looking at a 1.5" cylinder with ball ends.
The top links I've seen are all 2", so I have some concerns.. But..

I've done the math.. and think I the numbers for the 1.5" cylinder look good.
I like the idea of a more compact setup as well
"The Math"
My 1023e can lift 671lbs, 24" behind the links..
I believe most category 1 implements "mast height" is 19" (mine are all 18 or 19)
With that figure, and the max lift weight, at a 24:19 ratio I need 860lbs of top link pull force to HOLD 671lbs at position, 24" behind the lower links.

With 2150psi available, and a 1.5" cylinder with a 1" shaft, I'll have 2111lbs available to retract the top link.. or "tip" the implement up/forward and 3799, to extend.. or tip the implement back/down.
Works out to 1671lbs of force available to tilt forward/lift, the load 24" back.. or 1000lbs above.. or 2.5x the force needed for just holding up the max lift capacity of the 1 series.

That should be enough to control and hold the position of 3 point stuff on the 1 series... and way over what I need for the implements I own or plan to own.

A 2" cylinder with a 1.25" shaft (the standard category 1 top link..) almost doubles the numbers of the 1.5", at 4116 pull and 6754 push.. which would equal 3258lbs 24" back.. or almost 5x the capacity.
It's not "too much".. but it think it overkill for this small machine.

Still thinkin.. didnt act yet... but as soon as I get my machine back... I'm measuring for hose length and clickin' the order button.

Look what came today!!
42$ so far... Need switch...

(It's a 3r series handle)

So... my top link, from pin center to pin center is 19.5" collapsed, and 28.5" extended til the little grooves show.
(for the sale of argument, its a 9" stroke)

The two cylinder options I am considering are:
17.25" retracted, 27.5" extended (10" stroke)
or
19.25" retracted, 31.25" extended (12" stroke)

Do I want to be able to tip further up/forward (2.25" shorter)? Or.. start out 1/4" shorter than OEM and be able to extend 2.75" further?
I am leaning towards the latter.

I am also planning on building some kind of bucket mounted grapple...and will use this cylinder as an "all purpose" unit for things like this when its not in the top link role...

I ordered stuff today. This is not a 60$ project by any means... but its also not a $1000 one...
Below is what I have invested so far (and some part numbers), to have an electric selector(diverter) valve, a nice grip from a 3r (Which I will put a switch in) a 1.5"x12" cylinder to use as my top link, and all the electrical connectors, switch, wire, hoses, QDs and fittings I believe I will need.
My plan is to not permanently affix the hoses... So I can route them to the rear for hydraulic top link work, and to the front for , well.. whatever I build for up there (I am thinking a grabber thing for the bucket..like a grapple

I'm going to need to do some wiring, and figure out how to mount the valve to the loader uprights...the rest should be pretty "Lego"

Handle now has button installed.
The Deere Plastic castings were not matched very well... so I got the dremel out and cleaned them up, sanded them to be smooth, then buffed them with a little carb cleaner (melts plastic) to smooth and hide the sanding marks...
I'm really happy with the look and feel...

Handle Is Mounted!!!
Now I wait for the big stuff to come !!

Here's the switch I used:
(Amazon 10$)

Interesting discussion. I've been wanting to T off my existing diverter valve and run lines to rear SCVs. All the great points made me realize that it would be better if I moved the diverter to the loader mount instead of the arm. I'd have to probably replace some hoses but I originally mounted the valve using home made clamp brackets so it's not a real issue to move it. It wouldn't be ideal because I couldn't use the rear SCV and a grapple at the same time, well I could but it would power both which would be confusing. Still if I'm using a box blade or a rear blade, I normally have the bucket on, not the grapple so a hydraulic top link would be awesome and it would let me use the 790 for the hay rake which requires hydraulics.

Great discussion, thanks for starting it.

Treefarmer

Ok... so... they eye on the cylinder is too close to the cylinder, the cylinder is too wide and the top link ears too close together.
It wont be able to swivel at all at the tractor end...it is soooo close...


There's no way I'm grinding on the top link mount, and it would not help a lot anyway...
I do really like this small cylinder, and it would be a small fortune in return shipping anyway... So, have purchased new cat 1, 3point swivels(clearance at TSC 0.99 each...) and will cut down the old swivel, and weld a new one on.
(only need 3/4 inch...)

And... I'm a DipS#!t... SAE Elbows... cant screw the second one in the valve, after the first one is in there. The holes too close together, and the ORB end is not a swivel... I know better than this... I just wasn't thinking)

So.. more fittings comin' too!

Melikes said:

Looks like a bud and cheetos. May I come over?

Click to expand...

I love Bud and Cheetos... or in this case a PBR...

Tractor loving company is always welcome!

Got some fittings to make this right again

Please remember this is function and finance over form and beauty.

I played with the loader hoses, and 90 degrees to the mast seemed the best resting spot, and facing the rear seemed great for the toplink hose, and, should I choose to run these up the loader frame...just fine there too.

I'm going to build a mount, that will "clamp" to the loader upright.. with some kind of t handle for easy mount and dismount.





I will put a little space between the couplers... and dont mind the angled look at all.

You can get ORB standoffs if you want to face both fittings forward. Not sure if it would give enough clearance for quick disconnects though. I mounted mine permanent so I just had to convert the ORB to face seal fittings.

Thanks! Knowing those exist may come in handy on another project.
I'm happy with the direction things are pointing in.
I would like the QDs parallel...but it doesn't affect function at all, so I'm gonna leave them.
I have been thinking about cutting the npt end of the orb/npt fittings a little shorter. It's kinda gangly looking. But I worry about making a good seal if I do that.
Overall.. it is what I intended now.

Soooo...
The cylinder is now extended by about an inch (3/4 was "enough" .. I figured an extra quarter wouldn't hurt)

The Surplus Center Valve took quite a few cycles to actually start working.
I was at the point where I was deciding disassemble or exchange for replacement.
Checked the coil.. 3 amps, and the screwdriver got pulled into it... so.. on and off about 25 times "in situ" and it began working as designed.

So.... with the top link cylinder now extended to where its not a little longer than needed, and the valve working... things look good. I'll build the mount for the loader uprights and do any wiring soon.













I did buy sleeve for the hoses to protect the hoses (and me if one was to leak)... will neaten things up and play more later.

Built a bracket today... Kinda "Winged it on the fly"... the idea developed based on what I had in the shed, came out nice, and ties things together well. (Trailer spring shackle mount, some 5/16 bolts, and a peice of inner tube)

It's meant to be "One Piece, Easy Off" for when I don't need the diverter.
Also got the battery end and relay bit of the harness done..just gotta get some wire from the SCV handle to the relay.