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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How close should the 60D be to the back wheels? Just got the new machine machine w/60D and it wasn't level of course. So after I got it leveled out, I noticed the back of the deck is just about touching the back wheels. My old 1026R was definitely not that close. Would pulling in the front draft arms fix this? I'm not picturing how since that would be pulling the deck against the rear draft arm hooks and mess up the front/back level?

-- edit --

Fixed. Just needed to be leveled and the ramps adjusted forward. Easy.
 

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I would say that you need to pull mower and check alignment of all brackets, etc. Looks like poor installation or damaged parts. I'd get it up on some wheel ramps and check out. Just because dealer assembled doesn't mean it's right. Most of the time they use their entry level employees and enough is not paid to details. The front may need adjusting to pull the mower forward and with your setup things might be binding.
 

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I assume the mmm is engaged in the lift arm slots and fully engaged in the slots so that the latch is latched???
 

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The deck shouldn’t contact the tires. But there is very little clearance in the full up position. The tires in the pics look brand new to me. Wonder if they would be slightly over size ? Maybe over inflated ?
 

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Loosen the 2 nuts holding the drive over plate, slide the plate forward , then re tighten.
 

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I think this post points out the fact that even though people buy this equipment, there is hands on knowledge need to properly operate. I've never had a piece of equipment that I didn't have to make some adjustments maybe even alterations. I don't use my belly mower on my 1025R but I can tell you it has many adjustments that have to be made and maintence on the cradle connector if used. I use my as backhoe tractor and removed all the rattling items. But there are many, many adjustments one can make. I know JD likes the sales aspect but my opinion is one was going to use only as a mowing tractor would be to use the manual connected drive shaft and get the clearance adjusted from the front pull bracket. The mower deck attaching brackets are light as well as some other things and I wouldn't take much to damage the unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When I adjusted the level, I raised the side links up as high as possible. So that's probably why it didn't get too close to the wheel before now. I'm going to put my load-and-go brackets on this morning and run through the leveling procedure. I'm sure it will all line up once I'm done. I don't think there is much down there to be installed wrong, it is either attached or it isn't attached. Will advise.
 

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I was just going by his signature....
I thought probably you were. It seems that I remember reading about a new tractor just recently.
 

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I think this post points out the fact that even though people buy this equipment, there is hands on knowledge need to properly operate. I've never had a piece of equipment that I didn't have to make some adjustments maybe even alterations. I don't use my belly mower on my 1025R but I can tell you it has many adjustments that have to be made and maintence on the cradle connector if used. I use my as backhoe tractor and removed all the rattling items. But there are many, many adjustments one can make. I know JD likes the sales aspect but my opinion is one was going to use only as a mowing tractor would be to use the manual connected drive shaft and get the clearance adjusted from the front pull bracket. The mower deck attaching brackets are light as well as some other things and I wouldn't take much to damage the unit.
On the other hand I love mine...I was at the dealer when they showed me the tractor and how to install and uninstall the attachments.

They fumbled around trying to get the deck back on, I listed the details in a post from 7 years ago so I won't bore anyone...but I said get that thing straightened out before you deliver it...They did. As it has loosened up over the years it has worked better and better. I do normal maintenance greasing and checking bolts and fasteners...but I have never had to adjust the thing. On and off in a couple minutes:cheers:
 

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The front draft arm adjustment will not pull the deck forward, it controls the front to rear height of the deck.

Check the orientation of the deck lift eye bolts. It is easy to reverse them...ask me how I know.

Pages from LVU30327 Mower Deck Lift Linkage.jpg

Also, what I have done is to add a 3/8 fine thread nut to the shank of each eye bolt and utilize it as a jam nut. This prevents the adjustment from being accidentally altered when removing the mower deck linkage for installation of the front PTO (snowblower, rotary broom). I then mark the outside of each yoke with permanent marker as to which is the left and right side. This prevents me from not only inadvertently exchanging them from side to side, but with the permanent marker on the outside, I do not install the eye bolt backwards on the lift arm, as it reminds the marking is to be on the outside, where readily visible.

Some day you'll get old and become forgetful. So you come up with these little tricks to save you from yourself. When you're old, you like to lie and refer to it as wisdom.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I put my load-and-go ramps on it, and leveled everything out. Problem resolved and no big deal. Thanks guys.

Also, what I have done is to add a 3/8 fine thread nut to the shank of each eye bolt and utilize it as a jam nut. This prevents the adjustment from being accidentally altered when removing the mower deck linkage for installation of the front PTO (snowblower, rotary broom). I then mark the outside of each yoke with permanent marker as to which is the left and right side. This prevents me from not only inadvertently exchanging them from side to side, but with the permanent marker on the outside, I do not install the eye bolt backwards on the lift arm, as it reminds the marking is to be on the outside, where readily visible.

Some day you'll get old and become forgetful. So you come up with these little tricks to save you from yourself. When you're old, you like to lie and refer to it as wisdom.
You sir, are brilliant. They were facing the right way. But struggle with those factors all the time and that will probably save hours of raging and cursing!
 

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Well this is interested....so you now advise that you did adjustments outside the dealer setup....I've been there before with folks....I've sold them something...they adjust and then question why it doesn't work properly. If you adjust one thing then something else happens. The problem with these belly mowers is "if you aren't mowing" they are in your way for other things. Actually I would think the belly mower would get damaged if you use it around much backhoe type work. That's why I removed mine...the previous own didn't remove it appeared he was always bottoming out the deck. I can assure you that the deck is light on brackets and want take any or very little damages. One lick of a hammer will know the connecting pins out of whack. Just think what the other 1800 plus pounds of pressure pushing down it will do. Using this stuff is simple physics....but good luck....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well this is interested....so you now advise that you did adjustments outside the dealer setup....I've been there before with folks....I've sold them something...they adjust and then question why it doesn't work properly. If you adjust one thing then something else happens.
.

I'm not that kind of folks. Been there done that with unrelated things that I've done for other people. I don't play that game.

I know how to adjust it. I was just wondering what the clearance should really be and if there was some factor I was unaware of. I've been discussing it with the dealer this morning while working on it too. It's all good.

The problem with these belly mowers is "if you aren't mowing" they are in your way for other things. Actually I would think the belly mower would get damaged if you use it around much backhoe type work. That's why I removed mine...the previous own didn't remove it appeared he was always bottoming out the deck. I can assure you that the deck is light on brackets and want take any or very little damages. One lick of a hammer will know the connecting pins out of whack. Just think what the other 1800 plus pounds of pressure pushing down it will do. Using this stuff is simple physics....but good luck....
I agree with this. I take the deck off frequently for these reasons. But not sure what that has to do with anything here? :flag_of_truce:
 

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Well this is interested....so you now advise that you did adjustments outside the dealer setup....I've been there before with folks....I've sold them something...they adjust and then question why it doesn't work properly. If you adjust one thing then something else happens. The problem with these belly mowers is "if you aren't mowing" they are in your way for other things. Actually I would think the belly mower would get damaged if you use it around much backhoe type work. That's why I removed mine...the previous own didn't remove it appeared he was always bottoming out the deck. I can assure you that the deck is light on brackets and want take any or very little damages. One lick of a hammer will know the connecting pins out of whack. Just think what the other 1800 plus pounds of pressure pushing down it will do. Using this stuff is simple physics....but good luck....
This is why I cringe every time I see pics here of people doing loader work with the mower deck on. Dragging the deck around on uneven ground is not what they are designed for. As you say the attaching/lift linkage is quite fragile.

We buy a top of the line tractor which has superior engineering. It takes all but a couple minutes to remove or install the deck.
 

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If you have the autoconnect deck setup correctly, something it seems many dealers lack the ability (or don't care), they are a piece of cake to remove/install. In the summer, I clean the beach when I'm done mowing. Off comes the mower deck and on goes the dump cart. I dump out in the woods and have to travel over very uneven terrain. So rather than take a chance on damaging the mower deck, it comes off.

The autoconnect deck was one of the reasons I purchased the 1025Rs. In a perfect world (unlimited funds and an adult sized toy box), I'd have a skid steer with tracks, a larger tractor with snowblower. and a zero turn.

Based on his other posts, I'm sure PedalstoPaddles now has the mower deck not only correctly adjusted, but optimized for maximum lift height as well. After about the fourth time of installing/removing the mower deck and finally getting the sequence of steps correct, it takes less than a minute to remove/install the mower deck.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This new one comes on and off very easily. My old one gave me grief every time.
 

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Glad it was only tweaking adjustments....nothing bent or broke....I think keeping an eye on the adjustments is the key to these quick install item...
 
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