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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
TRACTOR DETAILS:
JD 6115D
Hours: 900

PROBLEM:

After an hour of bush hogging with a batwing mower OR bailing hay (anything with the pto), my hydraulic oil temp creeps up to over 156F (as measured at the sight glass and oil cooler with IR gun) and eventually the stop light on the tractor comes on.

THINGS DONE:

  1. Changed Hydraulic oil and filter
  2. Ensured coolant is topped off at max fill
  3. Removed output hose from cooler to and made sure oil is flowing out
  4. Made sure rocker arms are not up
  5. Confirmed oil level is between the lines on the sight glass
  6. Made sure the engine radiator and fuel cooler are normal temps. Hydraulic cooler is the only one hot
  7. Confirmed with JD that there is no sump filter that could be clogged. Its only filtered by the hyd. filter
  8. Attempted to bleed air from the cooler but not sure how to do that since the input and output are on the bottom.
  9. Used only hyguard oil and filter
  10. Cleaned the cone-shaped caps on the tractor(I don't know what they are called) where hydralic cylinders get locked in place. LIke a float valve. They were pretty cruddy inside.
  11. Washed all coolers (radiator, oil, fuel) thoroughly
  12. Cleaned air filters


OTHER INFO OF INTEREST:

Oil temp on the right side of the oil cooler seems to be the same temp as the left side (outgoing) as measured on the main tube. Shouldn't it be cooler? Also, the small tubes on the oil cooler are 138 (I assume these tubes are for the coolant to pass through?).

When the PTO is engaged and the engine is revved, some oil dribbles in from the top of the sight glass and it has air bubbles. Eventually makes the sight glass a little cloudy from the bubbles. After stopping, they clear within 10 min.

ONLY REMAINING GUESSES:

  • Clogged oil cooler? How would I know? Could it be after only 900 hours? Can the IR gun tell me?
  • Air bubbles in hydraulic oil not normal and causing the overheating or accumulate in the cooler until it is turned off
  • Internal hydraulic leak (how would I know?)
  • Open the bleed valve on the radiator while running? Not sure how that can help.
  • Check to make sure filler cap vents are clean
 

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Is 156 degrees even a concern? :dunno:

I used to run a 4430 JD,, pulling a disk at full throttle,,
at the end of the day, many times, I would disconnect the disk, then drive 1/4 mile to the shop.
At the shop, I would spray the water hose on the rear axle, the water would turn to steam, indicating the axle was over 212 degrees.

(We did not have non-contact thermometers in 1975,,, :laugh:)

So, possibly 156 degrees is the normal temp?? :dunno:
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think it is normal because what got my attention initially was the STOP light that came on after about an hour or hour and a half of mowing. The second time it happened I had my IR gun which got me started down this path. I read somewhere that the normal temp is supposed to be 113F. high warning at 140F. Burn up the seals at 180F.
 

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I would remove that cooler and blow out the fins, and then wash with water. It sounds like its packed full of crud.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I unbolted the cooler and used one of the curved washer wands to wash through the cooler both ways. It looks pretty clean. I don't know if they can get clogged internally though. I did remove the output side and crank the engine over and drained some oil into a bucket to make sure some was passing through. Replaced that with fresh oil. That didn't make any difference. This is a tough one.
 

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OK, so I would make sure to clean the internals out. Maybe a radiator shop can help you with that.

Whats your trans temp, by the way?
 
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Did any other warning or caution light come on when the stop light came on. Usually you get a warning light along with stop light. The temps dont seem bad if its 85/ 90 degrees outside air temp. Maybe you have a seat switch or other safety acting funny.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, so I would make sure to clean the internals out. Maybe a radiator shop can help you with that.

Whats your trans temp, by the way?
John I'm not positive where to test the trans but I think the trans shares fluid with the pto as one open system and everywhere in the vacinity of the PTO and sight glass show 155 after only about 30 min of bush hogging bailing. If I just drive around without the pto engaged it stays cool. 105..115.

I've read about an air lock on the side of the radiator that cools the hydraulics. A bleed valve at the bottom of the radiator. Not sure if that can really cause a problem. Coolant is full.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did any other warning or caution light come on when the stop light came on. Usually you get a warning light along with stop light. The temps dont seem bad if its 85/ 90 degrees outside air temp. Maybe you have a seat switch or other safety acting funny.
No other lights came on. Just the STOP NOW type of light. I don't think it is a short because it only comes on after 1.5 hours. Then if I turn it off and on again while still hot, it will come back on in a few minutes. But If I let it cool off completely, it takes 1.5 hours to come back on. After putting new expensive hyguard in I dont want to run it hot for a long time again until I figure this out.

The manual says 113F is normal. 180 and the seals burn out. So 155 seems too close for comfort. When operating the baler, the cylenders on the baler get so hot to the touch they will burn you. So I know it isn't good for the implements either.
 

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John I'm not positive where to test the trans but I think the trans shares fluid with the pto as one open system and everywhere in the vacinity of the PTO and sight glass show 155 after only about 30 min of bush hogging bailing. If I just drive around without the pto engaged it stays cool. 105..115.

I've read about an air lock on the side of the radiator that cools the hydraulics. A bleed valve at the bottom of the radiator. Not sure if that can really cause a problem. Coolant is full.
Coolant has no effect on hydraulic cooling. the coolers are separate.

if it's only doing it when under PTO load, it makes me think that the PTO clutch is slipping-badly. I know that with automatic transmissions if you are seeing lots of heat it usually means something is slipping. Auto transmissions use many wet clutches, just like these tractors.

With the tractor at room temp, I would start the pto with no load and run it for a few minutes. Then, check the temp around it. Then hook up your batwing and run it for a the same amount of time, and then read again. Whats the temp difference?
 

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113 degrees is the temp you check your oil level in sight glass ! Read owners manual or on line I googled it ! Your hydraulic oil is going to be the same temp as your coolant and eng oil ! All oils and coolant will be around 180 to 210 degrees depending on the work load ! Not going to burn anything up at 180 degrees! Your chasing the wrong thing you got electrical issues!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Coolant has no effect on hydraulic cooling. the coolers are separate.

if it's only doing it when under PTO load, it makes me think that the PTO clutch is slipping-badly. I know that with automatic transmissions if you are seeing lots of heat it usually means something is slipping. Auto transmissions use many wet clutches, just like these tractors.

With the tractor at room temp, I would start the pto with no load and run it for a few minutes. Then, check the temp around it. Then hook up your batwing and run it for a the same amount of time, and then read again. Whats the temp difference?
Ok I'll try that this weekend. Thank you.
 

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Are you able to view malfunction codes in the speed hour meter section of the instrument cluster, you have to toggle the display switch in a certain combination to view if your tractor is able to do this.
 

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Are you able to view malfunction codes in the speed hour meter section of the instrument cluster, you have to toggle the display switch in a certain combination to view if your tractor is able to do this.
I didn't know about that. Thank you. Ill find out the sequence and post it so I remember next time I get the warning light.
 

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The 6030 series is equivalent to todays 6M tractors. Very different from a 6D or modern 6E.
 
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I have a 2014 5085E that gives me the overheated hydraulic fault. I think its electrical. A little history, My tractor has given the reverser fault frequently since it was new , I have 650 hours on it now. About 2 months ago the hydraulics quit working completely. Took it to the dealer and they said everything was working good. About 3 weeks ago I had an information only light error and the tractor would start but would not move and the engine would not accelerate. Took it to the dealer and they told me it was a communication error. They reprogrammed the computer. Worked good for a couple of days. Mowed and tedded about 20 acres of hay Monday, worked good. Tuesday I bush Hogged with an 8 foot hog. The tractor ran about an hour and the hydraulic got hot. I washed the radiator and all the cooling coil up front. Bush hog for 15 minutes and the hydraulic were hot again. Wednesday I tedded the hay again and it ran about an hour and I cooled the Hydraulic cooler with water, ran about 15 minutes and hot again. Today I balled the hay I cut Monday and the tractor ran OK. I think it's like me, works when it wants to. If I take it to the dealer on a day it wants to work they think I'm crazy. So what do I do?
 

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I have a 2014 5085E that gives me the overheated hydraulic fault. I think its electrical. A little history, My tractor has given the reverser fault frequently since it was new , I have 650 hours on it now. About 2 months ago the hydraulics quit working completely. Took it to the dealer and they said everything was working good. About 3 weeks ago I had an information only light error and the tractor would start but would not move and the engine would not accelerate. Took it to the dealer and they told me it was a communication error. They reprogrammed the computer. Worked good for a couple of days. Mowed and tedded about 20 acres of hay Monday, worked good. Tuesday I bush Hogged with an 8 foot hog. The tractor ran about an hour and the hydraulic got hot. I washed the radiator and all the cooling coil up front. Bush hog for 15 minutes and the hydraulic were hot again. Wednesday I tedded the hay again and it ran about an hour and I cooled the Hydraulic cooler with water, ran about 15 minutes and hot again. Today I balled the hay I cut Monday and the tractor ran OK. I think it's like me, works when it wants to. If I take it to the dealer on a day it wants to work they think I'm crazy. So what do I do?

First, dont wash the hot coolers with water- you WILL damage something. We have had members blow fuel shutoffs by washing a hot engine with cool water.

I think the first step is to discover why the hydraulics just suddenly cut out. The reverser issue sounds electrical, because it uses an electronic setup to activate the power shifting. Maybe a solenoid issue? a wiring problem? maybe a computer problem? If the computer is CAN controlled, it could be a CAN bus error. That being said, we need to figure out whats up with the hydraulics not working.
 
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