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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I saw in JDparts that some changes/upgrades had been made on the 62C deck (what's on my x485)The changes happened serial number 300,001 and up.

Being a sucker for making improvements, I bought the parts to convert mine.

The two idler pulleys were replaced. Instead of being flat (back side of the belt) the new ones are grooved. Since the 62C deck uses a hex section belt, this makes sense.

Also changed was the tension spring, it's bigger/heavier and how it hooks to the tension arm. They had used a stamped steel piece painted yellow, that changed to round spacer that goes on the idler bolt, probably less expensive to make and still does the job. . Now they use a longer bolt, M8 x70mm verses M8 x 60mm, (to accommodated the spacer) and a spacer (for the tension spring to hook to) to mount the idler, so the spring pulls directly on the center of the idler.

Here's a parts list

AM147272 Idler you need two
TCU27776 Tension spring
M111180 Spacer
19M7803 Cap Screw

I cheaped out on the bolt and bought it local for about 1/2 of JD's price :mocking:

Installation is easy. It took about 1/2 hour including lots of stops for pictures. No pictures would half the time.
The fixed idler is simple R&R the old and replace with the new. The bolt is carriage bolt, so only a 12mm wrench or socket is needed.
The tensioned idler takes more steps. The tension arm has to be removed to get the bolt the idler is on out. Had JD reversed the bolt the tension arm could stay on. First remove the tension spring. There is a rubber cap over the pivot for the tension arm, it pulls off. The a clip ring, washer and a felt washer. The idler bolts to the tension arm. Remove it, the nut is 12mm. Use the longer bolt, original spacers from the old idler and swap the yellow angle bracket for the new spacer, reuse the original nut. Re install the tension arm, felt washer, washer, clip ring and dust cap. I greased the pivot shaft before I put the tension arm back on.
Install the tension spring and you finished!

The old idler pulleys are black, the new silver. So you should be able to tell in the pictures. Also the old one on the tension arm is a smaller diameter than the fixed one. The replacements are both the same size and larger than the smaller one on the tension arm, which should help belt life.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
more pictures

This upgrade cost about 1/2 the price of a new belt. I hope it gives longer belt life to make it worth it!
Last picture is old parts, notice the pulleys are two different sizes, the larger was the fixed idler, the smaller was on the tension arm. Replacements are the same size.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I do run with the black plastic pulley covers removed, makes the top of the deck easier to clean. I blow it off after every mowing.
 

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I am sure I would be tempted to use a large flat washer on top of the spacer to make sure the spring hook does not travel up and off the spacer -- otherwise it looks like a sensible upgrade.

How many hours do your have on your deck? I had one of these decks on a 2004 x495 that I bought from a local cemetery and that tractor had over 2500 hours of relatively hard use...I also needed to replace the gearbox isolation parts and some brackets when I replaced the expensive belt. Here are some pictures:
new bushings vs old worn bushings & bolts.jpg
new vs old front mount - 62C gear box.jpg
new vs old rear mount - 62C gear box.jpg

Chuck
 

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I do run with the black plastic pulley covers removed, makes the top of the deck easier to clean. I blow it off after every mowing.
Do you have the anti blowout kit on your deck. Helps keep the deck clean and get a better cut. Thanks for the info,I'll look into the upgrade for my 2002.
 

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Thank you, that is the same deck I have on my 2305. She :mocking:400hrs when I got it and I think all of those 400 were mowing. I have put another 69 hrs of mowing onit. I have to replace a spindle so I guess I should follow your upgrade lead when I buy parts. I had a stick flip in the plastic cover with the belt. I think it was original belt and was dry rotted. The belt shredded on that stick. I noticed the belt vibrates and slaps thedeck at times. I think the spindle song with these suggested parts should fix her mother cr.
 

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Wonder if the same upgrade is available for the 54? Not that I use it anymore but I have been meaning to go through it and clean it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am sure I would be tempted to use a large flat washer on top of the spacer to make sure the spring hook does not travel up and off the spacer -- otherwise it looks like a sensible upgrade.

How many hours do your have on your deck? I had one of these decks on a 2004 x495 that I bought from a local cemetery and that tractor had over 2500 hours of relatively hard use...I also needed to replace the gearbox isolation parts and some brackets when I replaced the expensive belt. Here are some pictures:




Chuck
Good idea for the washer (JD does not use one) I have room on the bolt to add one. 600hours on the deck.

Do you have the anti blowout kit on your deck. Helps keep the deck clean and get a better cut. Thanks for the info,I'll look into the upgrade for my 2002.
Yes I put the anti blowout kit on it, it reduced the build up, but did not eliminate it. If JD offered front fenders for AWS, I would try them too.

Wonder if the same upgrade is available for the 54? Not that I use it anymore but I have been meaning to go through it and clean it up.
Check JDparts and see if two different idler P/Ns are offered for the same position. I have not checked, but bet they upgraded it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wonder if the same upgrade is available for the 54? Not that I use it anymore but I have been meaning to go through it and clean it up.
I checked JDparts

48C and 54C also had an idler change to the same idlers, longer bolt, and spacer to replace the yellow stamped metal part the tension spring currently hooks to. But they do not change the spring on these two models. You can continue to use your current spring and save $16!

I also checked the specs on the spring used on the 48C, 54C, and 62C serial number 300,000 and lower, P/N M148163. 62C serial number 300,001 and higher got spring P/N TCU27776

The specs for P/N M148163 are: 10.197" free length, 14.218 LBF/IN, (pound or lb, foot/inch); tension installed 16.389 LBF
The specs for P/N TCU27776 are: 9.816" free length, 15.417LBF/IN, (pound or lb, foot /inch); tension installed 20.233 LBF or 23% stronger!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Another look at JD parts and when they changed the tensioned idler, they also added a washer key 17 P/N M146490

So I need to buy that washer, and take it apart again to install it. :banghead: :hide:

JD parts shows two key 17. The parts list has quantity 1 for serial number 300,000 and lower, and quantity 2 for serial number 300,001 and higher.

I just caught this mistake :hide:

The one marked with a red arrow is the second one used on the serial numbers, 300,001 and higher. Note how on one idler the washer is above key 10 and the other below key 10. No idea why :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I installed the washer for the tension idler. It lowered the idler about 1/8" (.120"). Since this idler replaced a flat surface idler with a V groove idler, I am guessing positioning is more critical. So I added the washer, before I need to mow.


I also added a washer above the spring hook, as suggested by Chuckv, thanks.


The job only took about 10 minutes and I did it without removing the deck, like the first time. :bigthumb:
 

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Could you do an updated parts list I would like to do this upgrade.
 

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I order the parts listed up above today plus a new spindle housing assembly for the bent one. I just need to remember to go get a bolt before the pancake arrives. I used Green Parts Store for my order.

Should be a fun project.
 

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I wonder if the washer should be between the bearing cup guard and sheave to provide clearance. I recall in other post they had to grind the cup edges as there was interference with rivets on sheave?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Could you do an updated parts list I would like to do this upgrade.
Updated parts list:
AM147272 Idler (you need two)
M111180 Spacer
M146490 Washer
19M7803 Bolt (M8 x70mm)
TCU27776 Spring (ONLY for 62c deck, 48C & 54C decks use original spring)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I order the parts listed up above today plus a new spindle housing assembly for the bent one. I just need to remember to go get a bolt before the pancake arrives. I used Green Parts Store for my order.

Should be a fun project.
I hope you ordered the washer M146490, I initially missed.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I wonder if the washer should be between the bearing cup guard and sheave to provide clearance. I recall in other post they had to grind the cup edges as there was interference with rivets on sheave?
The fixed idler has this washer, but mounted above dust guard. I put the side of the idler with the larger rivet heads down, only because the other side looked better. Then the dust shield covered them up, so no gain, maybe I got lucky?
 

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I have all the parts except the bolt stopped two places today and they only had up-to 60mm long. So still searching. Worst case I will have to go pick one up at the dealer on Tuesday.
 

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Well I tore the mower deck down on Saturday and finished on Sunday. I had ordered 1 new bearing assembly with the idler upgrade parts and ended up needing all three. The belt was slapping the deck on the long run on the back side. I found all of the spindles were worn to the point you can rock them back and forth in the bearing. I think the slap was from a spindles wobbling.

When I pulled the idler pulleys the fixed one on the deck had no bearings left at all. I went to the dealer and picked up 2 more bearings and never looked at the spindle top nuts before I left. They had been pulled at some point and it looked like someone used a crescent wrench on them. All three had heavy rust so I doused them with penetrating oil and som filing and the correct 24mm socket and 5ft galvanized pipe on the handle and they popped right off. The spindle bolts were also really rusted so I had soaked them but they all popped right off. I order all new nuts for the spindles and the mounting nuts so they should be here Wednesday and can start re-assembly.

I had fun, that’s wat counts:mocking:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
How many hours? Mine seemed good, but only 600 hours.
 
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