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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,
We've had a 6310 for about 15 years, it has about 10k hours and is brilliant.
It has a leak on the top of the rear end somewhere that is proving very difficult to isolate, it comes and goes and can leak quite a few litres in one day. It may be the gasket between the top cast piece and the main housing but I can't see it.
Has anyone had a similar problem on a 6000 series tractor?
Thanks for any help!
Cheers
 

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I had a leak at a o-ring boss fitting on the transmission housing. It was hard to find. I suggest cleaning the area and then dusting it with baby powder or flour. Start high since any leak is flowing down. Since your leak is intermittent, check often when operating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for that, will try the baby powder, its a little brighter than dust!

I had a leak at a o-ring boss fitting on the transmission housing. It was hard to find. I suggest cleaning the area and then dusting it with baby powder or flour. Start high since any leak is flowing down. Since your leak is intermittent, check often when operating.
 

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The suction hose for the pump (large one that make almost a full circle) failed on my 6415. I think because it made such a tight turn. It took for ever to find the leak because it was from the bottom of the hose and it would drip on another hose and run down that hose and where that hose started to go back up, it dripped to the ground.
I expected a molded hose when I ordered a new one from JD. I got straight precut hose. Had I known it was just straight hose, I would have bought a longer piece for a gentler bend.
Organism Font Art Circle Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Zebrafive. I'm on the farm this weekend and will investigate further.


The suction hose for the pump (large one that make almost a full circle) failed on my 6415. I think because it made such a tight turn. It took for ever to find the leak because it was from the bottom of the hose and it would drip on another hose and run down that hose and where that hose started to go back up, it dripped to the ground.
I expected a molded hose when I ordered a new one from JD. I got straight precut hose. Had I known it was just straight hose, I would have bought a longer piece for a gentler bend. View attachment 781187
 

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Gang -

I'm new to the forum - didn't necessarily think I needed to start a separate thread on this - but I just bought a cab model 2000 JD 6310 and I have a couple questions (re: light switch positions, brake lights, battery hold down) I could use a little quick help with - that I can't seem to find answers anywhere else and just need someone with the same tractor to help.

1. Main light switch (round knob left of steering wheel on "dash") - When I turn it on to the first position - the switch just seems to turn on the hazard lights (i.e. amber lights flash as if I turned on the hazard lights). Is that the way the lights are supposed to operate?

2. As I am working through getting all the lights to work - I don't seem able to get the brake lights to work. I read somewhere else that they are all wired in but don't have the final brake pedal switch in place and therefore don't operate by design (in the US models, anyway). Is that right? If true, do the "red" rear lights light up under any conditions you are aware of?

3. The guy I bought the tractor from put a car battery in it (Group 31 so plenty of power...but) - however there are no hold downs in place. I have a picture from John Deere that shows the factory hold down rods and angle bar to hold battery in place - but I can NOT tell for the life of me where the bent ends of the rod insert into the plate/tray (I'm getting the factory/JD battery - I want the tractor all back the way it was when new). Any chance someone has or can post a picture or two of (exactly) how those two rods are supposed to be installed and where?

Thanks so much in advance -
 

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1) For a cab tractor position:
1 OFF
2 Headlights, taillights, and warning lights
3 Headlights
4 Headlights and work lights
Headlight have separate switch for high and low beam
Works lights have switches, but headlight switch must ben position 4 for them to operate.

2) Tractors built for USA did not have brake lights. I don't know if the wiring is there or not. There are two element bulbs, one for taillights, one for turn signals (maybe could be used for brake lights?)
MFWD versions engaged MFWD when brakes applied.

3) There is a sheet metal plate the battery sits on. It has holes for the rods. I can get a picture later. Battery is expensive, IIRC I paid $400
 

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1) For a cab tractor position:
1 OFF
2 Headlights, taillights, and warning lights
3 Headlights
4 Headlights and work lights
Headlight have separate switch for high and low beam
Works lights have switches, but headlight switch must ben position 4 for them to operate.

2) Tractors built for USA did not have brake lights. I don't know if the wiring is there or not. There are two element bulbs, one for taillights, one for turn signals (maybe could be used for brake lights?)
MFWD versions engaged MFWD when brakes applied.

3) There is a sheet metal plate the battery sits on. It has holes for the rods. I can get a picture later. Battery is expensive, IIRC I paid $400
@Zebra - THANK YOU!!! One more clarification - So position 2 - "Warning Light" = flashing ambers - correct? If so - I'm golden and all is well on the 6310 front!!! I have all the other lights operational (work lights, etc) functioning according to your note. Man - that position 1 was hurting my head with the warning lights going.

I did confirm the wiring for brake lights is indeed in place - So far I think all you need is a "kit" from JD which has a switch that needs to be added to the brake pedal somewhere to get the brake lights functional...I'll work that later in case anyone is interested in the outcome down the road.
 

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@Zebra - THANK YOU!!! One more clarification - So position 2 - "Warning Light" = flashing ambers - correct? If so - I'm golden and all is well on the 6310 front!!! I have all the other lights operational (work lights, etc) functioning according to your note. Man - that position 1 was hurting my head with the warning lights going.

I did confirm the wiring for brake lights is indeed in place - So far I think all you need is a "kit" from JD which has a switch that needs to be added to the brake pedal somewhere to get the brake lights functional...I'll work that later in case anyone is interested in the outcome down the road.
And - Good to go on battery - got that back to "factory" yesterday - my plate is fine - I thought perhaps there was some kind of tray that ssat on top of it - but got the correct "L" bolts and angle, figured out where the rods go (BtWs - Super easy to install those from the bottom of the tractor up through the holes in the plate if you put the battery in first - which you can do to not have to figure out how to keep the rods from falling through while you otherwise install the battery after the rods) - and everything snugged un fine

Thank you again so much for the reply.
 

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@Zebra - THANK YOU!!! One more clarification - So position 2 - "Warning Light" = flashing ambers - correct? If so - I'm golden and all is well on the 6310 front!!! I have all the other lights operational (work lights, etc) functioning according to your note. Man - that position 1 was hurting my head with the warning lights going.

I did confirm the wiring for brake lights is indeed in place - So far I think all you need is a "kit" from JD which has a switch that needs to be added to the brake pedal somewhere to get the brake lights functional...I'll work that later in case anyone is interested in the outcome down the road.
Yes amber lights.

LMK what you find for brake light switch. It would be worth having on my 6415.
When I replaced my battery, I had to pull the front end guard off. I am not strong enough to lift the battery over it.
 

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You got it on the brake light switch. And I was afraid I was going to have to pull the guard down too - didn't look like a lot of fun - I managed to get the battery over it without having to go that far...
 

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You got it on the brake light switch. And I was afraid I was going to have to pull the guard down too - didn't look like a lot of fun - I managed to get the battery over it without having to go that far...
Stronger than me! I'll unbolt and remove the front guard for battery R & R.
 
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