[kanestle]

I have a 6400 with loader, solenoid clicks when I try to start. Can jump across terminals then will start off key a few times, then back to clicking at solenoid. Bought two new solenoids none fit, and cant figure out how they come off, without removing starter. Is there a relay between solenoid and key that could be bad, if not, how does solenoid come off. If I have to remove starter, HOW IN THE WORLD DO I GET THE BOTTOM STARTER BOLT OFF AND BACK ON. Tried today, used crow foot wrenches, every sort of swivel and extension known to man, no luck, I can barely move it with swivel, but access from bottom is horrible. Wondering if there is an easier way to access or if someone has had any success on these before, scared to start without more information. hoping it is a relay, however starter drive does act funny. thanks for any help.

 

[Scotty370]

Kanestle- All I can do is welcome you to our family at GTT! Since you just joined, I wanted you to know that this is a 'fast, ever changing' forum! Help should be on the way! But I wanted to welcome you aboard! ~Scotty

 

[Zebrafive]

Attached are pictures from JDparts. The starter picture might help show how the solinoid comes off. Also a picture of a starter relay. It mounts to the starter. If you do not have one it may help. Solinoid is part number AL117012 it repalces part number AL113664

 

[jd110]

Attached are pictures from JDparts. The starter picture might help show how the solinoid comes off. Also a picture of a starter relay. It mounts to the starter. If you do not have one it may help. Solinoid is part number AL117012 it repalces part number AL113664

This information is correct. The relay should be bolted right on the end of the starter. The solenoid is held on with three screws #8 in the diagram. I don't think you can get out all three of them without removing the starter. There is a special wrench made to remove the lower bolt. Part number is KJD10213. The wrench looks like a cut off box end wrench welded onto a long bolt. Even with the special wrench, getting the starter off is a real bear.

 

[Zebrafive]

Starter Wrench

I am sure this same wrench will work for the starter of my JD 6415. Is this available from John Deere? KD tools?

I don't need one yet (knock on wood)

Wrench size and length of bolt? If I were to make one.

Thanks

 

[Zebrafive]

I am sure this same wrench will work for the starter of my JD 6415. Is this available from John Deere? KD tools?

I don't need one yet (knock on wood)

Wrench size and length of bolt? If I were to make one.

Thanks

Checking JDparts I will NOT need this special wrench! My JD 6415 has metric Hex Socket Head Screws holding the starter on that use an 8mm hex wrench. So the special wrench will not work.

JD 6400 uses a 3/8" stud with a hex nut that takes a 9/16" wrench
JD 6410 uses a 10mm stud with a flanged hex nut that takes a 15mm wrench
JD 6415 & JD6420 uses a M10 Hex Socket Head Screw that takes a 8mm hex wrench

 

[jd110]

Checking JDparts I will NOT need this special wrench! My JD 6415 has metric Hex Socket Head Screws holding the starter on that use an 8mm hex wrench. So the special wrench will not work.

JD 6400 uses a 3/8" stud with a hex nut that takes a 9/16" wrench
JD 6410 uses a 10mm stud with a flanged hex nut that takes a 15mm wrench
JD 6415 & JD6420 uses a M10 Hex Socket Head Screw that takes a 8mm hex wrench

There are definitely two different wrenches for 9/16" and 15mm sizes. They are available through John Deere. The bolt section is about 8 inches long although I think 9 or 10 inches would work better. I wasn't aware they started using allen head bolts on the 15 and 20 series. I'll have to check and see if there is a special allen wrench for the job.

 

[kanestle]

update on solenoid

Attached are pictures from JDparts. The starter picture might help show how the solinoid comes off. Also a picture of a starter relay. It mounts to the starter. If you do not have one it may help. Solinoid is part number AL117012 it repalces part number AL113664

Thank you for taking the time to reply, the diagrams are very helpful, and right on the money. Worked on it today, discovered the solenoid would engage starter when jumped, so checked other problems, zeroing in on the front starter relay, it clicked off the switch, and engaged the starter when shorted. Replaced it, and for the time being fixed my problem. Dont really understand how it works, but none the less it does. thanks again, good luck.

 

[kanestle]

update on solenoid

This information is correct. The relay should be bolted right on the end of the starter. The solenoid is held on with three screws #8 in the diagram. I don't think you can get out all three of them without removing the starter. There is a special wrench made to remove the lower bolt. Part number is KJD10213. The wrench looks like a cut off box end wrench welded onto a long bolt. Even with the special wrench, getting the starter off is a real bear.

Really appreciate the tip on the wrench, for now dont have to remove it, but will buy or make one for the inevitable, Just to help others, if you remove the front starter relay, and mash the two bundles of wires down, it seems to make the bottom bolt more accessible with the wrench you described,,, A GREAT TIP FOR THIS PROJECT. thanks again and hope you dont have to remove one.

 

[kanestle]

starter removal

Checking JDparts I will NOT need this special wrench! My JD 6415 has metric Hex Socket Head Screws holding the starter on that use an 8mm hex wrench. So the special wrench will not work.

JD 6400 uses a 3/8" stud with a hex nut that takes a 9/16" wrench
JD 6410 uses a 10mm stud with a flanged hex nut that takes a 15mm wrench
JD 6415 & JD6420 uses a M10 Hex Socket Head Screw that takes a 8mm hex wrench

very helpful information for this nightmare project. thanks so much

 

[Zebrafive]

jd110 followup please

There are definitely two different wrenches for 9/16" and 15mm sizes. They are available through John Deere. The bolt section is about 8 inches long although I think 9 or 10 inches would work better. I wasn't aware they started using allen head bolts on the 15 and 20 series. I'll have to check and see if there is a special allen wrench for the job.

jd110,

Have you found out if a special tool is required to remove the allen head bolts of the new model's starters?

 

[JJM]

Same trouble

I have a 6400 with loader, solenoid clicks when I try to start. Can jump across terminals then will start off key a few times, then back to clicking at solenoid. Bought two new solenoids none fit, and cant figure out how they come off, without removing starter. Is there a relay between solenoid and key that could be bad, if not, how does solenoid come off. If I have to remove starter, HOW IN THE WORLD DO I GET THE BOTTOM STARTER BOLT OFF AND BACK ON. Tried today, used crow foot wrenches, every sort of swivel and extension known to man, no luck, I can barely move it with swivel, but access from bottom is horrible. Wondering if there is an easier way to access or if someone has had any success on these before, scared to start without more information. hoping it is a relay, however starter drive does act funny. thanks for any help.

My 6400 did the same thing. I put on a new selenoid, worked great for a while, then started doing it again??????? Very frustrating

 

[jd110]

jd110,

Have you found out if a special tool is required to remove the allen head bolts of the new model's starters?

No special tool recommended besides a ball end 8 mm allen socket extension and ratchet.

 

[bcbrouwer]

Ahhhh, I remember rebuilding a starter on a 6400 or 6410 with a loader that wouldn't start. Took me 8 hours to remove starter, rebuild it (the easy part) and reinstall! I wish I had or made a wrench like that! I cant even remember what I used but defenetly get or make that wrench!

 

[dutch1]

John Deere charged me $99.75 for the wrench to take starter off 6400 cab. After trying everything else for three days, it was cheap. I would lend it out to folks if it would get mailed back.

Did the starter solenoid fix the problem?

 

[dkonle]

Starter Replacement on a 6300L

I'm in the middle of replacing the starter on my 1995 6300L John Deere so hopefully my experience will be helpful to others. Since the mid-day temperature here just made it to 0 Fahrenheit and the tractor is out in the field it's a nice time for a little Internet mechanic work.

To remove the two nuts on the studs that holds the starter on you need a special tool (KJD 10160) which doesn't seem to be available.
The tractor is made in Germany and most of the bolts are metric but the two starter studs are 3/8 inch. A 9/16" wrench fits the nuts.
It happens that a 14mm wrench is just about the same size just a little smaller. Not knowing it was an inch size I made a wrench similar to the special tool out of a 14mm metric wrench and it worked but was very tight. I would suggest making the tool from a 9/16 box wrench.

Here is a picture of the wrench out of the John Deere Manual.

 

[dkonle]

I'm in the middle of replacing the starter on my 1995 6300L John Deere so hopefully my experience will be helpful to others. Since the mid-day temperature here just made it to 0 Fahrenheit and the tractor is out in the field it's a nice time for a little Internet mechanic work.

To remove the two nuts on the studs that holds the starter on you need a special tool (KJD 10160) which doesn't seem to be available.
The tractor is made in Germany and most of the bolts are metric but the two starter studs are 3/8 inch. A 9/16" wrench fits the nuts.
It happens that a 14mm wrench is just about the same size just a little smaller. Not knowing it was an inch size I made a wrench similar to the special tool out of a 14mm metric wrench and it worked but was very tight. I would suggest making the tool from a 9/16 box wrench.

Here is a picture of the wrench out of the John Deere Manual.

View attachment 37950

I understand that you can't edit your posts after two hours. Since I waited four days for the temperature to cross the 20 degree mark to put the starter back in I guess I'll have to quote myself to finish the story.

My replacement starter came from Abilene Machine, Inc in Solomon, KS. It was an aftermarket stater and cost about $175. The main body casting was sort of sloppy and didn't leave any room for the lower nut (and box wrench) to fit between the stud and the casting. I ended up grinding the casting with a welding grinder. Given you have to install the lower lock washer and nut with special tool and you can't see the clearance problem this becomes a bigger issue.

By looking at the price, description and pictures it appears that this starter motor is marketed by other outlets not just Abilene. I suspect and OEM starter would have avoided this problem.

 

[rideralberta]

I'm in the middle of replacing the starter on my 1995 6300L John Deere so hopefully my experience will be helpful to others. Since the mid-day temperature here just made it to 0 Fahrenheit and the tractor is out in the field it's a nice time for a little Internet mechanic work.

To remove the two nuts on the studs that holds the starter on you need a special tool (KJD 10160) which doesn't seem to be available.
The tractor is made in Germany and most of the bolts are metric but the two starter studs are 3/8 inch. A 9/16" wrench fits the nuts.
It happens that a 14mm wrench is just about the same size just a little smaller. Not knowing it was an inch size I made a wrench similar to the special tool out of a 14mm metric wrench and it worked but was very tight. I would suggest making the tool from a 9/16 box wrench.

Here is a picture of the wrench out of the John Deere Manual.

View attachment 37950

I have a 2130 and it's nearly impossible to get the bottom bolt in on the bottom of the starter, even with a special tool. There's a ground cable that the bolt goes through and then both have to be guided into a hole you can't see, all the while the bolt magically staying on the end of the tool. It's a nightmare.

So, here's my idea. Cut the head off of a longer bolt and thread that in so it acts like a stud. Put the cable on top of that. Then, insert the starter over the new "stud" and bolt it to the top stud, which an engineer was smart enough to make accessible. And then cross my fingers that the "stud" doesn't come out. And if it does... is it really needed if the top bolt is holding it firmly in place?