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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched the owners manual but am coming up short. Anyone know the slip clutch adjustment procedure for a 647 tiller?
 

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Trial and error

I don't know about that particular piece of equipment but normally you would back off the bolts until it slips. Count the number of turns and do each bolt evenly. Spin the clutch over with the tractor and pto to clear off any rust. Retighten. If it wasn't slipping before when it should I would tighten it a turn or two less than it was and try it. If it's slipping too easily, give each bolt a half turn and go again. Once you get it close you can do 1/4 or 1/8 turns.

If you can get the specs there should be a compressed spring length to tighten to but even that requires some final tweaking to make sure it will slip when you need it to.

Treefarmer
 

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I had the same concern with my tiller this spring and basically did what Treefarmer posted. I also made lineup marks across the clutch so that I could see if the disks moved/slipped as they should.
 

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What tractor is it on? On my X750 (24 hp) I found that I needed to take out 4 of the 8 bolts on the clutch. I loosened all 8 of them up so they barely were on the bolts and it wouldn't even think about slipping. I have mine so that 4 bolts have 1 thread showing and it is set perfect. Thats where i would recommend starting if you have a 1R/E or 2R. If I slowly load the tiller it will almost stall the engine, but I got a piece of stump caught in it the other day and it slipped the clutch.
 

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On my Landpride tiller the process goes like this:

Loosen all eight bolts two turns.

Make a mark across the clutch pack disks

Start the tractor and engage the tiller for three seconds. Shut off the tiller. Engage the tiller for three more seconds.

Check your mark. If the marks are still lined up, the clutch pack is not slipping correctly. If the marks are not lined up, tighten the eight bolts two turns.




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Not that I am doubting anyone, but I find it odd that Deere wouldn't include the adjustment procedure in the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not that I am doubting anyone, but I find it odd that Deere wouldn't include the adjustment procedure in the manual.
Be my guest:

OMLVU18907_J6

:lol:

Frankly the owner's manual I received had the official Deere cover and all. From the outside it looked like a bound Deere manual. Inside it looked like it had been photocopied from other poor photocopies.
 

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Adjusting my slip clutch that came with my Bush Hog calls for compressing the springs to 1 1/8" . Has worked OK for the past 6-8 yrs. Loosen the bolts every year after using the tiller for the season.
Also before tightening the bolts, turn the PTO ,while tiller is setting on the ground. Let it spin a few turns then turn off the pto. Same after tightneing the bolts and see if it will slip or dig while setting on the ground.
 
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Adjusting my slip clutch that came with my Bush Hog calls for compressing the springs to 1 1/8" . Has worked OK for the past 6-8 yrs. Loosen the bolts every year after using the tiller for the season.
Also before tightening the bolts, turn the PTO ,while tiller is setting on the ground. Let it spin a few turns then turn off the pto. Same after tightneing the bolts and see if it will slip or dig while setting on the ground.
That's basically what the manual for my Landpride says. Came with the springs compressed to 1 1/8". Supposed to keep it that way. If doing the "run in procedure" shows the clutch isn't slipping have to disassemble it.
 

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Be my guest:

OMLVU18907_J6

:lol:

Frankly the owner's manual I received had the official Deere cover and all. From the outside it looked like a bound Deere manual. Inside it looked like it had been photocopied from other poor photocopies.
I noticed in several places in the manual that it refers to the tiller "Less the Slip Clutch and Shaft"......I wonder if somehow that they produced a separate manual for the shaft and slip clutch? In the specifications section of the tiller manual, it refers to everyone of the tillers as weight without the slip clutch and shaft.....????:unknown:
 

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I don't know about that particular piece of equipment but normally you would back off the bolts until it slips. Count the number of turns and do each bolt evenly. Spin the clutch over with the tractor and pto to clear off any rust. Retighten. If it wasn't slipping before when it should I would tighten it a turn or two less than it was and try it. If it's slipping too easily, give each bolt a half turn and go again. Once you get it close you can do 1/4 or 1/8 turns.

If you can get the specs there should be a compressed spring length to tighten to but even that requires some final tweaking to make sure it will slip when you need it to.

Treefarmer
Best explanation I've seen so far!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
As it turns out, the clutch is on the PTO shaft. The 647 tiller simply has a spline shaft from the gearbox.

I loosened all bolts and drew lines all over to track movement. Every line stated right where it was.

My shaft is labeled Eurocardan.
 

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You've got to take it apart and clean both sides of all clutch discs and metal discs. It's probably rusted together. Use sandpaper or steel wool to remove rust. Put it all back together, tighten very lightly and you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You've got to take it apart and clean both sides of all clutch discs and metal discs. It's probably rusted together. Use sandpaper or steel wool to remove rust. Put it all back together, tighten very lightly and you should be good.
Check out the photos in the above link. You can't take it apart.

Once it was manufactured, they pressed the outer housing to lock it together. It's the dumbest design I've seen.
 

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My 673 came with one of those and I found out it wasn't adjustable after I stalled it on a root and smoked it. My local dealer wanted almost $1000 for a replacement so I went to a local tractor supply/junkyard and purchased a new universal pto shaft with adjustable clutch similar to the one that came with my mx6 rotary cutter for less than $400. I couldn't believe the original was a one time major slip and not adjustable.
 
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My 673 came with one of those and I found out it wasn't adjustable after I stalled it on a root and smoked it. My local dealer wanted almost $1000 for a replacement so I went to a local tractor supply/junkyard and purchased a new universal pto shaft with adjustable clutch similar to the one that came with my mx6 rotary cutter for less than $400. I couldn't believe the original was a one time major slip and not adjustable.
now u got to wonder what the heck them engineer's--/designers was a :think::nunu: a thinking--sure wasn't thinking about anybodys eles money-for a one time deal-jeepers. are they still building them that way yet??
 
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